A customer messaged me about a trick she learned from using piping bags and frosting, and sent me instructions on how she did it. This is really cool! It makes storing and thawing portions a breeze, and clean-up is so simple. You can even re-use the same carrot bag over and over, because the inside of the carrot bag stays clean. Thanks, Jeannine!
1. Lay a rectangular piece of plastic wrap flat on your work surface.
2. Spoon your henna directly into the center of the plastic.
3. Fold the top and bottom edges of the plastic over the paste so each edge overlaps the paste completely.
4. Pinch the open sides together and twist. You can hold the sides and twirl your paste lump until both sides are tightly twisted. Don’t worry, henna will not go flying.
5. Repeat until all your paste is wrapped, and store in the freezer. (Note: sometimes the dye from the paste can leech through thin plastic. I put a piece of wax paper down in my freezer where I stored the portions.)
Thawing and Filling
1. When you need to use your paste, pull out a portion and allow it to thaw. Cut the tip of a carrot bag.
2. Once the paste is thawed, cut the tip of a carrot bag and drop the portion in so that one twisted end can be pulled out of the tip. (I’ve learned that it might help to tape the twisted end to help it thread through more easily, like licking the end of a thread.) Pull gently until the portion forms to the bag.
3. Close the open end of the carrot bag with a rubber band or clip, and cut the plastic wrap twist where it sticks out.
4. If you do not use all of the paste, simply tape the end and store.
5. When the carrot bag is empty, simply pull out the plastic wrap, rinse the carrot bag if needed, and put it away for next time!
If you have cool tricks and tips you’d like to share and see posted in the blog, feel free to email us at info@mehandi.com with “tips and tricks blog suggestion” in the subject line.
Author: Rebecca Chou September 2017 Edited: Maria Moore August 2017
Henna has been used to dye and condition beards and facial hair for just as long as it has been used for hair on the head. Henna was used to dye hair in Persia as early as 1000 BCE. Persian men used henna alone or in combination with indigo to cover grays and to keep beards conditioned and healthy.
The use of henna for hair and beards was common throughout South Asia, the Arabian Peninsula, and the Middle East, and eventually spread to western regions, then throughout the world. At public baths, men relaxed and socialized while keeping up their washing and grooming habits, which included dyeing their beards. Henna made beards smoother, shinier, and stronger.
A man receives a Turkish massage at a public bath. Ottoman Empire, early 20th century.
In ancient times, Roman travelers noted that Persian men appeared to have woven gold wire through their beards. This was most likely a misinterpretation of their gray hairs which took on a copper shine after being hennaed. It was also common to dye the beard with indigo after it was hennaed, to achieve a jet black result. This is known as the two-step process.
A section from “Body Marking in Southwestern Asia” by Henry Field.The observer describes the beard grooming rituals of Persian men.
In some cultures and regions, hennaed beards are seen as a sign of piety for Muslim men. Some interpretations of Islamic texts forbid men from dyeing their beards with anything but henna. Others see a hennaed beard as the mark of a hajji, or a person who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca. Photographer GBM Akash did a photo essay on the bright, hennaed beards of older Bangladeshi men, which you can see here.
Of course, the use of henna and other plant dyes is not exclusive to the Islamic faith. Henna is simply a product and technique which has been used in the contexts and regions where it naturally grows. As trade and travel grew, henna spread into western use.
Beards dyed with henna do not have to be bright orange. Just like it is used with the hair, combinations of henna and indigo (or henna, indigo, and cassia) can dye the beard to any natural color. A two-step process of dyeing the beard first with henna and then with indigo will result in jet black. Not only will using henna and other plant dye powders give you a more lustrous, thick, shiny beard; it has many benefits, including being safer for your health.
Switching from Commercial Dyes to Plant Dyes
Hair dyes marketed to men differ very little in their composition from hair dyes marketed to women. Most of them contain para-phenylenediamine. Contact dermatitis reactions to PPD will cause blistering, swelling, and difficulty breathing. When using such a product so close to the nose and mouth, these symptoms maybe particularly dangerous. Symptoms may worsen with each exposure, and can lead to hospitalization.
These products all contain para-phenylenediamine.
While it is true that fewer men than women use dyes, men are also less likely to discuss their hair dye use or to seek help when they experience adverse reactions. If men are unaware of the cause of their symptoms, they may continue to use products containing PPD and experience worsening reactions that may become life-threatening.
A series of class action suits is being pursued against Just For Men hair and beard dye for PPD-related injuries and the company’s potential failure to properly advise a skin patch test. One suit argues that the recommended patch test on the inner arm does not adequately predict and protect against reactions on the face, which can be more sensitive. Click here, here, and here for a few examples of current suits. If you have been affected by a PPD reaction from using a product by this company, consider searching for a class action suit in your area. A successful suit may contribute to better responsibility and regulation on the part of companies which manufacture and sell dyes containing PPD.
If you are interested in switching to Ancient Sunrise® products, our customer service team is more than happy to help you through the process. Ancient Sunrise® products can be used directly over previously processed hair without a waiting period, and will not react adversely to any products previously applied on the hair.
How to Dye Beards
The Mix
If you are familiar with how to mix henna, indigo, and cassia to achieve your desired color result, the mix for facial hair is exactly the same, but in smaller quantities. The average beard will probably need about 30-50 grams total of dry powder to create enough paste to cover. For a short, trim beard, you will need less. If you are Gandalf, you may need 100-200 grams or more. If you need help determining how much product to use, feel free to contact Customer Service.
You may want to keep the paste a little thicker to prevent dripping. This is especially recommended if you are dyeing a mustache, as it may be quite uncomfortable to have paste dripping onto the mouth. If you are new to using plant dye powders, be sure to check out Bare Essentials, Choosing Your Mix, and the Ancient Sunrise® free Henna for hair E-Book to get started.
Remember that you will be keeping the paste on your face for about three hours. If you are sensitive to the smell of henna, add a few pinches of ginger powder or cardamom powder to neutralize the smell. If you dislike the smell of indigo, add a few pinches of vanilla pudding powder.
This dashing dude would need about 50-75 grams of powder to create enough paste for his beard and ‘stache.
Cleansing and Preparing
Facial hair can be dye-resistant, as it is thicker and grows quickly. Unlike hair on the head, it does not have the opportunity to be worn down by the elements (unless you have an impressively long beard). New hair is less porous than hair that has been subject to washing, brushing, and other forms of friction. Facial hair, like hair on the head, is kept moisturized and hydrophobic with a layer of sebum produced by the skin. It is important to make sure that your facial hair is extremely clean in order to achieve the best dye uptake.
It may be a good idea to exfoliate the skin with a good facial scrub or a stiff beard brush. The skin under facial hair can be dry and flaky. While henna does not stain skin on the face and head very well, scrubbing will further prevent staining, as henna binds to dry, thick skin. The last thing you’ll want is to have orange flaky bits hanging out in your luscious beard. A bonus to henna is that is has anti-fungal properties. If you experience dandruff around your facial hair, henna will take care of that. Scrubbing will also help lift the cuticles of the hair to better accept dye.
If you live in an area with hard water, clarifying with Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment is recommended. This will take care of any mineral buildup that can prevent adequate dye up-take, and ensure a better color result.
Wash your beard with a clarifying shampoo or a bit of dish detergent just prior to application. Once your face is scrubbed, clarified, and clean, you are ready to apply your paste.
Application
Make sure your paste has been prepared and dye-released at this point. If you wish, apply Vaseline or lip balm along the edges of your facial hair to prevent any staining that might occur. If you are applying to a mustache, you may want to put on lip balm as well. Be sure not to get any oil-based product on the hair itself. As mentioned previously, henna does not tend to leave a dark or lasting stain on the face, but it is always good to avoid looking like an oompa-loompa for a day.
Use gloved hands to apply the paste little by little, ensuring that the paste is worked down all the way to the skin, and the hair is thickly covered. Apply paste to the roots and pull it through to the ends. Press the hair down, or in the case of very long beards, twist it into rolls and press the rolls firmly into place.
Thick, long beards will need to be hennaed in section to ensure even coverage.
Wrapping
Use a damp cotton swab to clean up the edges of your facial hair; your neck, lips, nostrils, ears, and so forth. Cover your facial hair with plastic wrap. One way to do this is to create a wide strip with holes on each end. Press the plastic along your chin and jaw, and loop the holes around your ears like a medical mask. For mustaches, cut a thinner piece and press it along your upper lip. Make sure you can breathe comfortably.
If desired seal the edges of the plastic with medical tape under the jaw to keep the plastic on place and prevent dripping. Finally, wrap the face with a scarf or bandanna, or put on a ski mask.
Processing
Just like on the head, henna mixes need about three hours or more to process for best results. Unfortunately, this means you’re stuck with paste on your face for a while. You can use heat to speed up the process. Men used to henna their beards as part of their regular bathing routine, and relax in the steamy public bath or sauna. Hang out in a steamy bathroom or steam your face for a few minutes at a time. You could also apply a heating pad to your face periodically. Be sure to avoid long exposure to high heat, as this can be damaging to the delicate skin on the face.
Rinsing
Wash out the paste with warm water. You can do this over the sink, or submerge your face in a warm bath and swish it around. Apply conditioner and pull it through to help any residual paste rinse away. Finally, finish with shampoo or face cleanser. Remember to moisturize your beard and face after all that it’s been through.
Here is Mark’s beard before and after an application of henna and indigo.
Touch-ups
Facial hair grows quickly. How frequently you re-apply your henna mix will be dependent on your facial hair style and personal preference. If you keep your beard clipped short, you may need to touch it up more frequently, as you shave away the areas that are dyed.
It will be helpful to have henna on hand that is pre-mixed, separated into portions, and frozen. If you are using only henna and/or cassia, simply thaw a portion and apply. If you are using a mix containing indigo, thaw your henna paste, mix fresh indigo, and stir them together.
Freeze henna paste into cubes for easy storage and future use.
Once you have dyed all of your facial hair once, it is not necessary to do all of it again. You can use a tool such as a small tinting brush or an old toothbrush to help you apply paste just at the roots. This will keep reapplications clean, easy, and affordable.
Reapplications will require the same preparation and processing methods as your first dye. Remember to thoroughly clean the facial hair and face beforehand, and leave the paste in for three hours, or less if applying gentle heat.
If you are using a henna/indigo mix to dye graying hair to a brunette shade, and notice your facial hair becoming lighter or redder over time, you can easily darken it up again with a quick application of indigo paste. Simply mix about a tablespoon of indigo with distilled water, apply through your facial hair, and rinse after 10-15 minutes. This technique can be repeated until you achieve your desired results, and used as often as necessary. Note: Unless you would like to have a blue beard, do not apply indigo alone to gray hair.
This article serves as the introduction to a series on Para-phenylenediamine (PPD): its health risks, history, and politics. In the coming weeks, articles will be published which explore each section in greater detail.
Para-phenylenediamine, or a chemically related -diamine is an ingredient used in virtually all oxidative hair dyes, both store-bought and used in salons. The oxidative dye process is formulated to quickly penetrate and stain the hair strand any color, including lightening hair by removing the pigment from the core of the hair and dyeing over it. Brunette and black hair dyes contain higher concentrations of PPD, though all colors can contain PPD.
Para-phenylenediamine can present a multitude of health risks if it is inhaled or if it comes in contact with skin. Despite a well-documented history of allergic reaction, sensitization, increased risk of cancer, and other serious health risks, it continues to be allowed in hair dyes at a maximum of 6% concentration in the United States.
The rate of PPD sensitization is increasing, but many doctors, hairstylists, and consumers remain unaware or apathetic. A lack of knowledge about PPD leads to continuation of serious reactions for people who use products containing PPD and related ingredients. It also allows companies which manufacture and sell products containing PPD to do so with relatively no regulation nor legal repercussion.
Educating consumers about the dangers of PPD and safer alternatives is becoming an increasingly important mission at Ancient Sunrise®.
The molecular structure of Para-Phenylinediamine.
1. PPD is highly sensitizing, and studies link it to lupus, non-Hopkins lymphoma and asthma. Allergic reactions can cause severe injuries, and can be fatal.
The hazards of para-phenylenediamine have been known since its introduction for use as an industrial fur dye, and in personal hair dyes. Academic articles from as early as 1915 warn against it. Symptoms of allergic reactions to para-phenylenediamine may include itching, swelling, hives, blistering, depigmentation, and permanent scarring; the reaction is a delayed hypersensitivity reaction, often occurring 3 to 30 days after application, so they are frequently misdiagnosed.
There have been an increasing number of fatal anaphylaxis reactions to PPD hair dye in recent years, particularly when people have previously had a PPD ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo. The allergic reactions often require emergency treatment to keep airways open, and further treatment in an ICU or burn ward. A person may additionally experience difficulty breathing and swelling of body parts near the site of exposure. In the case of hair dye use, this means swelling of the face, eyes, and throat. Reactions near the eyes can cause damage and loss of sight.
This woman experienced a severe reaction to a hair dye claiming to be henna, but which contained PPD. Article here.
In countries where products with high PPD levels are easily accessible, ingesting hair dye is a known method of suicide and murder; women can generally purchase hair dye without arousing suspicion. Ingestion of PPD can lead to respiratory distress, rhabdomyolysis (muscle death), and renal failure.
PPD exposure has been linked to increased chances of certain cancers as well as asthma and non-Hodgkins lymphoma. Despite all this, PPD is legal for use on hair within the United States at up to a 6% concentration. Cosmetics companies continue to tout PPD as a safe ingredient despite decades of research, case studies, and hospitalizations.
2. There is no requirement to disclose the concentration percentage of PPD in products manufactured in the US.
Regulation of PPD varies greatly by country. The United States limits PPD to up to a 6% concentration in hair dye. The FDA differentiates between products used for hair coloring, and products applied directly on the skin because hair dyes are supposed to be used off the scalp and washed away after a period of time. In reality, those who apply hair dye at home will apply the product to the scalp, and will not always follow processing time instructions.
Even when these products are applied correctly, there is no guarantee that the customer will not develop a sensitization or a reaction. The dye may drip onto the scalp, face, neck or ears during processing time. For some, this brief contact with a low concentration may be all that it takes.
Other countries have a higher limit or no limit at all on concentration levels. These products are easy enough to purchase over the internet. They can also be found at international grocery stores. When hair dye is sold in powder form, concentration is directly dependent on the amount of water mixed with the powder. One study found that packages of black hair dye manufactured in India and China (often sold as black henna) contained 12.5% to over 30% PPD, far in excess of legally allowed levels. Other samples have been found to have as high as 60% PPD.
3. “Black Henna” body art is not henna. It is illegal, but laws are not well enforced.
“Black henna” appeared in the United States and flourished seemingly overnight in the 90’s, spurred by Madonna’s “Frozen” music video released in 1998. in the video, her hands are decorated with black henna patterns. These were done with Bigen black hair dye at the Ziba salon in Los Angeles. Based on first injury reports, it can be estimated that henna artists from South Asia have been using high PPD black hair dye since the 1980’s as “black henna.” Pop-up stalls in tourist locations offered temporary body art that stained the skin black very quickly, and lasted for two to four weeks. “Black henna” created the illusion of a real tattoo without the permanence or pain (unless one experiences a reaction). Black henna body artists were transient and often unaware of the dangers of their own materials.
This person experienced a reaction and now has permanent scarring from a “black henna” tattoo gotten while on vacation.
Within the United States and most countries, PPD is illegal for direct use on skin unless it is for cultural purposes. While imported shipments of “black henna” body art products are regularly seized by customs, it is easy enough to purchase hair dyes containing PPD, which are not subject to seizure, and to use them on the skin. Dyes from countries with more lenient laws may report only “color powder” as an ingredient. Some international brands of popularly used for “black henna” body art contain as high as 30% PPD concentration, more than enough to sensitize an unsuspecting client in one exposure. A solid form of pure PPD is sold as “henna stone” from the banks of the Nile River, which creates instant black results for body art. This leads uninformed buyers to believe that a) the product is natural and safe; and b) that natural henna produces a black stain.
“Henna stone” is not natural. It is a solid piece of industrial grade PPD, at up to 90% concentration.
The use of high concentrations of PPD for henna-like body art gained popularity first in East Africa in the 1970’s. The product was less expensive and required an easier preparation than natural henna. It provided instant, black results which mimic the look of a permanent tattoo, and are more visible on darker skin tones. This practice then moved into Western countries, especially in high tourism areas.
Darker areas show where “black henna” is used as part of tourism; gray areas show where vacationers return home.
Enforcing laws against the use of PPD on skin would require law enforcement officials to patrol high tourism areas such as beach fronts and piers where stalls are often set up. These stalls are transient, closing and opening in new locations. A solo artist could set up and work out of a toolbox, moving throughout the day. As mentioned earlier, many products containing high concentrations of PPD are not properly labeled, making it even more difficult to enforce bans.
In many cases, by the time a customer experiences a reaction to their “black henna” body art, the artist has long moved on to a new location, making it near impossible for health professionals to acquire a sample of what was used on the customer’s skin.
Www.mehandi.com sells Temptu professional-grade skin paint, which does not stain the skin and does not contain PPD, but which is water-resistant and can mimic the look of a black tattoo for up to seven days.
This design was done with Temptu paint. You can find it here and learn how here.
Research has shown that with enough exposures to high enough concentrations of PPD, anyone will develop a sensitization to PPD. In a well known study, 100% of subjects exposed to 10% concentrations of PPD developed a reaction within five patch tests. Rate of sensitization varies greatly among individuals. For some, it may take only one exposure to a lower concentration. Though the oxidative hair dye industry claims that fewer than 3% of people are allergic to hair dye, many studies have shown that number to be higher, and coroner Geoff Fell estimates that 14% of people are allergic to oxidative hair dye.
“Black henna” artists use a mixture that is 15% PPD or more. The chances of becoming sensitized to PPD after getting a “black henna” tattoo is about 50% Once sensitized, a person will experience a reaction the next time they come in contact with PPD. Of the people who are sensitized to PPD from a “black henna” tattoo, about 40% will experience a severe reaction upon their next exposure. This might be another “black henna” tattoo, or it could be years later, when that person decides to dye their hair. Even if the first exposure did not cause any reaction, the body can still have become sensitized. The next time this person comes in contact with PPD, they may experience a severe reaction without any understanding of the cause.
People who work in professions that require frequent contact with PPD can quickly develop sensitivities. Hair stylists who become PPD sensitive can no longer work at a traditional salon without experiencing reactions. PPD was once also used in fur-dyeing, leading to high rates of sensitization in fur industry workers.
5. Those who develop sensitivities to PPD may experience worsening symptoms with each exposure.
Reactions are not always immediate and severe. Oftentimes, reaction symptoms start out mild and worsen each time a person makes contact with the compound. A person who has dyed their hair using an oxidative dye for several years may at first experience no reaction, then one day notice some itching or burning, or have puffy eyes after applying hair dye. The next application might cause more painful symptoms. Before long, that person could require emergency hospital care for a reaction that has caused intense swelling to the entire face and head, and difficulty breathing.
Actor Pauley Perette had a typical progression of reaction: she had dyed her blonde hair black for twenty years, and the allergic reactions presented progressively until it was life-threatening. Follow the link here for additional news articles about PPD reactions.
In 2012, a woman in the UK died after experiencing a reaction to an over-the-counter hair dye. Further investigation discovered she had previously gotten a “black henna” tattoo, which likely had sensitized her to future encounters with PPD. While this is an extreme case, it is not at all uncommon for people to become sensitized via exposure to a high concentration of PPD from a “black henna” tattoo, and go on to later use a dye containing PPD. People can become sensitized without experiencing an initial reaction. Those who do experience a reaction from “black henna” tattoos are usually unaware that commercial hair dyes contain the same ingredient.
One study discovered that even after participants were determined by way of patch test to have a PPD sensitivity, more than half continued to use hair dyes anyway. These participants were ones who experienced more mild reactions; those with severe reactions reported stopping hair dye. This shows that the average patient does not take their sensitization seriously, and is willing to endure a mild reaction for the sake of maintaining their desired hair color.
6. PPD sensitization can lead to cross-sensitization to related compounds.
Para-phenylinediamine is an aromatic amine in the benzodiamine family. Studies have shown that those with PPD sensitizations may also be sensitive to other benzodiamines, toluenediamines, analgesics such as benzocaine and lidocaine, azo-dyes, and PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid). The FDA lists examples of cross-sensitization here.
Hair dyes that are labeled “PPD free” may contain para-toluenediamine, a compound similar enough to elicit reactions for those who have PPD sensitivities, causing “PPD free” hair dyes to be just as problematic.
Unless tested in a clinical setting, it is unlikely that the average person who is sensitized to PPD will be aware of cross-sensitizations. This leaves them vulnerable to reactions from other sources, such as fabric dyes, cosmetics, black rubber (like that used to create car tires) pain relieving and numbing agents both administered in a hospital and bought over-the-counter, and even sunblock lotion.
Those who experience reactions from cross-sensitization may be frustrated and confused as to what is causing their allergies, and what products to avoid. A doctor may recognize a PPD sensitization and recommend their patient to stop using hair dyes containing PPD; however, if a patient has an unknown cross-sensitization, they may continue to present with similar symptoms without realizing the link.
7. The rate of PPD sensitization is growing.
The combination of an increased use in hair dye among younger people, and the explosion of the “black henna” industry in tourists areas has allowed for a jump in the rate of PPD sensitization. The most common source of sensitization for children and young adults is “black henna” tattoos. As mentioned above, the concentration of PPD in products used for “black henna” is extremely high, leading to a higher likelihood of sensitization in comparison to exposure to lower concentrations. This creates a population of youth who have already become sensitized prior to their first use of oxidative hair dye.
Studies have shown that people are using hair dye at younger ages and at higher frequencies. While hair dye was once more commonly used to mask gray hairs that came with age, it is now a common cosmetic tool to change hair color on a whim, regardless of age.
It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of middle class people in the UK, US, Australia, Korea, Japan, and Europe will be sensitized to PPD. The majority of this sensitization will have been caused by “black henna” tattoos gotten while on vacation. Rates will be higher in the Arabian Peninsula, East Africa, Muslim populations in Africa, and South Asia, where black henna has been used in weddings and for Eid. As the younger, “black henna” sensitized population reaches the age for graying hair, there will be a dramatic increase of PPD-related injury from hair dyes.
Dark areas indicate where black henna is used to decorate the skin for events such as weddings, Eids, religious and cultural celebrations. Gray areas indicate where the practice has spread.
8. International “henna” for hair, and “natural” hair dye products are loosely regulated, and can contain PPD regardless of labeling.
Standards for ingredient disclosure vary depending on the country of origin. In countries like India, manufacturers are not required to disclose their full list of ingredients on products such as hair dye. Henna for hair products can be labeled as “pure” and “all natural” but in reality include PPD, metallic salts, and other chemical adulterants. Some products labeled “henna” can include little to no henna at all. “Henna” becomes a vague, catch-all term for supposedly natural hair products, regardless of the existence of lawsonia inermis plant powder contained therein. These compound hennas are then mistaken for safe BAQ henna.
It is an incorrect assumption that a product originating from South Asia, the Middle East, or other regions in which henna grows is automatically safe and natural. It is often the case that these products are the most adulterated.
These brands of hair dye contain high concentrations of PPD. Note that some are called “henna.”
9. Cosmetics companies that use PPD have little legal responsibility for PPD-related injuries.
US-based and international cosmetic giants which manufacture oxidative hair dyes containing PPD are relatively safe from litigation. They are required by the FDA to advise customers to conduct a patch test before using their products, and to avoid use if one has an allergy to “black henna.” This warning, along with the sheer size and strength of these companies, prevents successful legal action against them in the case of PPD-related injury. The lobbying power of these companies prevent the government from passing more stringent legislation on PPD. Current law does not require that injuries caused by hair dye reported to the manufacturer be made public, as this is regarded as financially sensitive information.
Dupont, the patent holder, explicitly absolves itself from harm done by any use that involves contact with skin.
“DuPont does not recommend and will not knowingly offer or sell p-phenylenediamine (PPD) for uses involving prolonged skin contact. Such uses may involve, but are not limited to, products formulated with henna for tattoo applications or other skin coloration effects. This use of PPD in prolonged skin contact application has the potential to induce allergic skin reactions in sensitive individuals.
Persons proposing to use PPD in any formulation involving any more than incidental skin contact must rely on their own medical and legal judgment without any representation on our part. They must accept full responsibility for the safety and effectiveness of their formulations.”
10. 100% pure henna is a safe, effective, and permanent alternative to oxidative hair dyes.
More and more people are seeking safer, natural cosmetic alternatives regardless of whether or not they have a sensitivity to ingredients in commercial products. Consumers are concerned about the environment and their own bodies. Using henna and related plant dye powders to dye hair is a process that requires more patience and knowledge than picking up a box of oxidative dye at the local store, but will yield permanent results without damage to the hair or body. It is essential that consumers insist on only henna products of the highest quality and purity. This means products that have been tested for PPD, metallic salts, and other harmful adulterants.
Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products are made of 100% pure plant powder. They can be used on all types of hair, and produce virtually any natural shade.
The practice of using plant powders to color the hair is centuries old. The knowledge of their use was once as commonplace as knowing how to drive a car is now. This can become the case again. It requires the availability of quality product, accurate information, and the dissemination of that information within and across communities through direct relationships and social networking. A common reason for being hesitant about using henna is that it seems complicated and time-consuming, but a great number of henna-users report that it becomes second nature, that they enjoy the process, and that the results are superior to boxed dyes.
Learn how to mix your own safe and natural hair dye and never worry about PPD again!
Ancient Sunrise® provides quality products, information based in research, and a team of customer service representatives that are available through several avenues of communication. We have thousands of customers all over the world. We look forward to helping you on your journey to beautiful hair and healthier practices.
References
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Al-Suwaidi, Ayesha, and Hafiz Ahmed. “Determination of para-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna in the United Arab Emirates.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 7, no. 4 (2010): 1681-1693.
Brancaccio, Ronald R., Lance H. Brown, Young Tae Chang, Joshua P. Fogelman, Erick A. Mafong, and David E. Cohen. “Identification and quantification of para-phenylenediamine in a temporary black henna tattoo.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 13, no. 1 (2002): 15-18.
Cartwright-Jones, Catherine. “The effect of black temporary tattoos on the chemical cosmetic industry and a solution to the problem.”Sofw Journal 143 (2017): 24-30.
Chen, Weiyang, Thobile AN Nkosi, Sandra Combrinck, Alvaro M. Viljoen, and Catherine Cartwright-Jones. “Rapid analysis of the skin irritant p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna products using atmospheric solids analysis probe mass spectrometry.” Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 128 (2016): 119-125.
Fisher, Alexander A., Alfred Pelzig, and Norman B. Kanof. “The Persistence of Allergic Eczematous Sensitivity and the Cross-Sensitivity Pattern to Paraphenylenediamine** From The Department of Dermatology and Syphilology of the New York University Post Graduate Medical School (Dr. Marion B. Sulzberger, chairman) and The Skin and Cancer Unit of the New York University Hospital.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 30, no. 1 (1958): 9-12.
Hashim, M. Sir, Y. O. Hamza, B. Yahia, F. M. Khogali, and G. I. Sulieman. “Poisoning from henna dye and para-phenylenediamine mixtures in children in Khartoum.” Annals of tropical paediatrics 12, no. 1 (1992): 3-6.
Hueber-Becker, Frédérique, Gerhard J. Nohynek, Eric K. Dufour, Wim JA Meuling, Albertus Th HJ de Bie, Herve Toutain, and Hermann M. Bolt. “Occupational exposure of hairdressers to [14 C]-para-phenylenediamine-containing oxidative hair dyes: A mass balance study.” Food and chemical toxicology 45, no. 1 (2007): 160-169.
Jacob, Sharon E., and Bruce A. Brod. “Paraphenylenediamine in black henna tattoos: sensitization of toddlers indicates a clear need for legislative action.” The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology 4, no. 12 (2011): 46.
Jenkins, David, and Elizabeth T. Chow. “Allergic contact dermatitis to para‐phenylenediamine.” Australasian Journal of Dermatology 56, no. 1 (2015): 40-43.
Kligman, A. M. 1966. “The identification of contact allergens by human assay. 3. The maximization test: a procedure for screening and rating contact sensitizers.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology, v. 47 issue 5, p. 393-409. (1966)
McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” BMJ: British Medical Journal 334, no. 7587 (2007): 220.
Özkaya, Esen, Kurtulus D. Yazganoglu, Aysem Arda, Zeynep Topkarci, and Erol Erçag. “The “henna stone” myth.” (2013).
Paley, Kristina, Larisa J. Geskin, and Matthew J. Zirwas. “Cutaneous B-cell pseudolymphoma due to paraphenylenediamine.” The American journal of dermatopathology 28, no. 5 (2006): 438-441.
Seidenari, Stefania, Lucia Mantovani, Bianca Maria Manzini, and Marco Pignatti. “Cross‐sensitizations between azo dyes and para‐amino compound.” Contact dermatitis 36, no. 2 (1997): 91-96.
Wilbert, M. I. “Cosmetics as Drugs.” Pub. Health Rep. 30, no. Oct. 15 (1915): 3059.
Rapid analysis of the skin irritant p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna products using atmospheric solids analysis probe mass spectrometry, Weiyang Chena, Thobile. A.N. Nkosia, Sandra Combrincka, Alvaro. M. Viljoena, Catherine Cartwright-Jones. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, Volume 128, 5 September 2016, Pages 119–125
Some henna users report that their hair feels dry, coarse, brittle, or unmanageable after washing out their henna. What is happening is the hair is going through a temporary state. This temporary state has little to do with moisture or lack thereof, and more to do with the hair’s physical structure. The process of dyeing with henna can cause a temporary change on the surface of the hair strand. The hair goes back to its normal texture within a couple days. Smoothing can be expedited with conditioning or an apple cider vinegar rinse.
This article will discuss the physical structure of hair, the sensory interpretations of “dry” and “moisturized,” and offer solutions for lessening the undesirable texture which some may experience during the first few days following a henna treatment.
Hair Structure
A strand of hair is not one solid thing. If you were to see a cross sections of it under a microscope, you’ll notice that a hair strand is built of many tiny scales of keratin overlapping each other in layers over a central core. The outer layers of keratin are relatively hydrophobic, or waterproof, and surround a central cortex composed of a bundle of long cells called cortical cells, which contain DNA information and melanin. The cortex is more prone to water swelling than the outer layers. This is what causes hair to stretch further when wet.
A strand can only stretch so far and be able to spring back to its natural length. Beyond that extent, the strand will remain stretched and in a weakened state. Beyond that still, the hair will break. Excessive moisture within the cortex weakens the hair structure and leaves the hair vulnerable to stretching and breakage. The right balance of moisture is necessary to maintain healthy structure. Healthy hair does this on its own with its layer of hydrophobic keratin cuticles and the thin coating of oils produced by the scalp.
If it helps, think about hair like a bundle of cooked spaghetti coated with layers of tiny shingles made of the same material as your fingernails. You want the spaghetti to stay al-dente. Too wet, and the spaghetti will stretch and break. Too dry, and the spaghetti will also be vulnerable to breakage. The cuticle barrier is extremely important in regulating moisture within the cortex. When damage is incurred on the surface, gaps formed by broken or missing cuticles contribute to the hair’s overall weakened state, from a weaker outer structure to a more exposed inner structure.
Broken and missing cuticles expose the long, thin, central cortical cells.
All hair is subject to weathering over time. The cuticle structure is relatively resilient. Hair can flex, stretch, and be exposed to daily friction and tangles and still be healthy. Hair that is straight tends to have a rounder diameter, like mechanical pencil lead, while curlier hair would appear elliptical when observing a cross section. The cuticles of straight hair tend to overlap more tightly, while cuticles on curly hair have more space between them. Because of the way cuticles are arranged, those with curly hair sometimes find that their hair is more prone to breakage.
The cuticles on curly hair are not as tightly arranged as on straight hair, and the cortex is flatter.
It is normal that the cuticle layer is tighter and thicker near the scalp, where the hair is newly grown and has not yet had time to experience damage. Nearer to the ends, the hair is older and apt to have a thinner cuticle layer that is more jagged. Split ends are the result of the complete loss of the cuticle layer, and the splitting apart of the inner cortical bundle.
Hair that has been processed with chemicals or otherwise damaged will have cuticles that stand up more rather than cuticles that lay flat against one another. Environmental factors can temporarily alter the hair’s cuticles. On windy days, your hair is thrown around, and the friction between strands causes the cuticles to lift. The strands tangle as the lifted cuticles catch onto one another. Dirt and build-up in the hair can further exacerbate tangling.
Damaged hair will show gaps in the outer cuticle layer as well as the inner cortex.
You may notice that on humid days, your hair is more frizzy. Moisture can cause the cuticles to be raised, and for the structure to weaken. This is why hairstylists advise against brushing wet hair, When hair is wet, it is more prone to stretching. All healthy hair will stretch a little and bounce back, like a coiled spring. Using Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi to wash and condition your hair is a great way to keep it smooth and prevent excess moisture from weakening your hair.
What We Interpret as “Dry and Damaged” vs. “Smooth and Healthy”
When the cuticles are raised, the hair feels “dry” or coarser and less manageable. We often misinterpret this texture as “dryness”, believing that the hair is lacking moisture. As mentioned above, moisture itself can sometimes cause raised cuticles, so clearly this is not the case. It is simply a temporary change in the physical shape of the hair strands as a reaction to its environment. While dry and damaged hair can also exhibit similar physical changes, the two are not synonymous.
Similarly, just because hair is artificially smoothed with silicones and glycerols, it does not necessarily mean that the hair is in a healthier or more moisturized state than it was prior to conditioning. Think of it this way: silicones and glycerols are also used in skincare and cosmetics, to smooth the surface of the skin, filling in fine lines and softening textural imperfections. Does that mean that your skin has suddenly become less wrinkled? No; it is a temporary fix to the way the surface of the skin feels and appears from the outside. As most of us have used store-bought hair care products since youth, we have been brought up with an implicit notion that tangled, crunchy feeling hair indicated dryness, and smooth, sleek hair indicates moisture.
Damaged hair that is coated with conditioner is still damaged. Silicones and glycerols artificially smooth the surface.
What Happens to Hair During a Henna Treatment
During a henna treatment, moisture and acidity from the paste, along with the intermediary dye molecules migrate into the outer layers of the hair strand. The dye bonds to the keratin with the help of a Michael Addition bond. This process plumps the cuticle in a way similar to how fingertips become prune-like after a long soak in the tub. If your hair is not rinsed well enough, residual paste can also cause the hair to feel gritty and tangled, just as it might if there was some dirt in your hair. As the dye molecules settle into their places and oxidize, and the residual particles of the henna paste leave the hair, the sensation of dryness decreases.
Hair plumps as it is exposed to the wet and hydrogen-rich henna paste, and as dye molecules migrate into the outer layers.
Because henna’s dye molecule binds to keratin in a lasting way, the hair is strengthened and reinforced. The added reinforcement prevents breakage and balances moisture levels. Henna does affect the physical texture of the hair, so those with naturally curly hair may see a loosening of their curl pattern. For some, this comes as a blessing. For others who want to maintain their bounce, adding amla into the henna mix prior to dyeing can help to maintain the curl pattern.
Now that you know the truth about how your hair’s texture changes, here are some ways to help your hair feel smoother, softer, and more manageable sooner after dyeing your hair with henna.
If you have a bathtub, the easiest way to ensure that the henna paste is fully rinsed out is to fill the tub with warm water and lie back, allowing your hair to submerge fully. Swish your hair around and move your fingers through your hair until all of it is moving freely in the water. This method is often referred to as the “mermaid rinse” or as our owner, Catherine Cartwright-Jones like to call it, the “swamp queen rinse.”
Afterward, drain the tub and work a large handful of conditioner through your rinsed hair. This will help any remaining paste to slip out more easily. Rinse with fresh water and repeat if necessary, until the hair feels smooth, then wash and dry your hair as you normally would. There is nothing wrong with washing and shampooing hair immediately after dyeing it with henna. Lawsone binds to the hair permanently while the paste is in contact with the hair, and washing will not cause anything to loosen except for residual paste matter and dye that did not attach during the processing time.
If you prefer not to use conditioner, diluted apple cider vinegar will help to smooth the hair and close the cuticle. Rinsing with cool water also helps the cuticle to tighten and close.
The cuticles will return to their normal state within a few days after henna.
Final Notes
Because the texture of the hair after henna is so frequently mistaken as dryness, some people choose to add ingredients such as coconut milk or oil, egg, milk, yogurt, and other plant oils to their henna mix to prevent this feeling of dryness. Now that you know the truth, you’ll understand why adding food to your henna is unnecessary. These ingredients will inhibit proper dye uptake.
Henna keeps your hair healthy and strong, but it is also great for your wallet. While having your hair dyed in a salon can cost up to a hundred dollars or more, and a box of dye from the store can be around ten dollars, each application of henna can cost as little as $3.00 if you know the best ways to order. Here are the not-so-secret secrets that the staff at Ancient Sunrise® would love for you to know for money-saving tips.
1. Order Samples First
If you are new to henna or Ancient Sunrise®, we highly recommend ordering samples to try out before buying a full-sized product. Your patience will be well worth it. Ancient Sunrise® sells samples of all plant dye powders and Henna for Hair kits in portions just large enough to test on some hair harvested from your hair brush or a recent haircut, or to try on an inch-wide section on your head. Prices range from $1.50 to $4.49, and shipping for samples is always free.
Call, chat, or email with the customer service staff to determine which samples would be best for you to try. Once you have done your strand tests, you will be ready to order a full-sized kit, or your plant powders of choice. If your test strands didn’t come out the way you wanted, the customer service staff will work with you to find the mix that works best for your needs.
Ordering samples saves you from spending money on a product that ends up producing results you may not like. Switching to henna is exciting and you may be tempted to jump right in, but you’ll be happy that you took the time to test.
Kit samples contain pre-measured amounts of plant dye powders packaged separately to ensure that your test will be an accurate reflection of full kit results.
2. Order in Bulk
Most customers who start with a kit eventually switch to ordering their plant dye powders in bulk quantities once they are familiar and comfortable with the process. All of the products on the kits are available for individual purchase. The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for hair kits are convenient in that they provide all of the necessary ingredients in the correct proportions, as well as a detailed instruction sheet, gloves, and an applicator bag. The trade-off is that they are a few dollars more expensive. When you order in bulk, you’re shipping may increase a little, but it will be more economical than paying to ship every month.
The plant dye powders will last for years if kept sealed, dry, and at a moderate temperature. Henna and cassia powders may be kept in the freezer (Indigo should never be frozen). Once you have decided on your perfect mix, you can stock up on your ingredients. Not only will you save money by ordering in bulk, but you’ll only have to pay for shipping once. Also, you’ll have the peace of mind of knowing you never have to place a last-minute order after running out of your supplies.
Freeze henna paste for easy future use. Just thaw what you need and apply.
It is especially important to stock up on indigo powder before the winter months. Indigo will become unusable if subjected to freezing temperatures. We do our best to insulate indigo shipments during the winter (you can also request extra insulation for a fee). We cannot control what may happen to the packages while they are on their way to you. It is always best to stock up in the fall before freezing temperatures set in.
3. Stick to Root-only Applications
One of the best benefits of henna for hair is that it does not fade. In fact, over-application may cause your color to darken. After your first full-head application, it is only necessary to dye your roots as your hair grows.
Most customers use anywhere between 30g to 100g for a root touch-up, depending on the thickness of their hair and the accuracy of their application. This means that the cost of a root touch-up can cost as little as $3.00 (or less, if you ordered your powders in bulk) and one 100g packet of henna can last for three applications. If a person is using only henna and touches up their roots once a month, the cost for a whole year’s worth of henna comes to less than $50.
Apply your mix only to the first couple of inches nearest to your scalp. Accurate application means less waste and more money saved.
Those who are using only henna or henna/cassia mixes can take advantage of the fact the henna and cassia paste can be frozen. Mix a large amount of paste all at once, dye-release it, and separate it into smaller portions. The paste can be kept in the freezer for upwards of six months. Just thaw and apply!
When using a mix of henna and indigo (and/or cassia), contact the customer service office for customized measurements for root applications. This ensures that you are using the same ratios in a smaller amount, and prevents excess waste.
If you are not ready to place a bulk order yet, it is highly recommended that you order at least enough for one regular application, plus enough for touch-ups. In the case that you use all of your order to dye your hair only to find that you missed a spot, or the color came out too light, the last thing you’ll want to do is place a second order and wait several days to receive more product.
For those who use both henna and indigo, it is great to have an extra packet of indigo on hand. If your roots did not take enough color, or if you wish to darken your results, having extra indigo makes solving these problems quick and painless.
If you missed a spot or your results came out too light, simply reapply just to those areas.
As mentioned above, it is always great to have extra henna on hand because henna paste can be frozen for long periods of time.
Fruit acid powder is great to have handy also. It prevents unnecessary runs to the store for fruit juice and ensures consistent color results.
Finally, I personally always have a pouch of Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral treatment in the house for regular clarifying and pre-henna cleansing. One pouch of Rainwash is enough for about ten treatments and is much more cost-effective than ordering individual single-use packets. It is great for keeping my results bright and my hair soft.
5. Contact Customer Service Directly
It is always a good idea to order your product directly from a customer service agent via phone, email, or online chat. Not only are they very knowledgeable and fun to talk to, but they can make sure to apply any discounts that might be available, and check for your cheapest shipping option.
Www.mehandi.com is a wonderful and fast way to place your order but may charge more for shipping depending on where you live. If you live near Ohio, customer service agents may be able to decrease your shipping fee. If you are placing a small order, such as three 100g packets or fewer, CS will be able to adjust the shipping option to a flat-rate envelope. If you are ordering a larger supply and are on the west coast, larger flat-rate boxes are available, which may cost less than shipping to your location by weight.
One reason they are able to do this is that they can manually adjust an order to be packed more efficiently. On the website, bulk order options are calculated by weight and location, and there is a $2 handling fee. Customer service can place an order for as many individual packets as you’d like, and more than likely can save you a little bit.
Hooray for flat rate boxes!
Ancient Sunrise® customer service staff is available Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday, 9 am – 5 pm Eastern Time through phone, email, or online chat. Phones are answered before chats, so if you need to place an order quickly, feel free to call. If you reach the voicemail, please leave a message with your name, number, and the nature of your call. This is still a small company, and on busy days, they will do their best to return your call as soon as possible.
You may also like to send an email with your order, your phone number, and the time you’d like to be called. This can often expedite your ordering process because the representative can have your order set up before calling you, and you will simply need to complete your payment with your credit card information.
Call us to place your order and we’ll check for the best shipping option available for you.
6. Options for International Orders
If you are ordering from outside of the United States and don’t mind waiting longer for your shipment, you can choose to have it sent via First Class shipping rather than Priority. Priority packages ship within 6-10 business days to most places, but will be more expensive. First Class shipping is slower but more affordable. In some countries, customers find that they still receive their package relatively quickly. You can choose this setting when you order online, or request it when you order with customer service. Keep reading to learn about adding insurance to your international package.
Note: The First Class shipping option is only available for packages that weigh four pounds or less.
7. Consider Spending a Few Extra Dollars to Protect your Package
We will do our absolute best to ensure that your order gets to you safe and sound, but there are always rare occurrences that are outside of our control. Once the package leaves our warehouse, it is at the mercy of the weather, fate, and the US Postal Service. While it doesn’t seem like this belongs in money-saving tips, it actually can save a lot when unforeseen circumstances happen.
All domestic packages valued under $100 are insured by USPS. That means that in the case of a lost, stolen, or damaged package, we can help you file a claim to be paid back the value of your package. If your order is valued at $100 or more, we offer the option of insuring the full value or your order with USPS for just a few extra dollars. No one wants to place a large order and lose over a hundred dollars on a lost product. Consider adding this insurance especially if you have noticed difficulty receiving packages in the past, or if you live in an area where it is common to have packages stolen from doorsteps. For international orders, you can ask for additional insurance on any Priority packages valued over $200.
You can also request the option of requiring a signature upon delivery. This option also only costs $3.00 and will ensure that you and only you will receive your package. If you are not present at the time of delivery, USPS may leave a note on your door and return the following day to attempt delivery or may provide information on where you can retrieve your package.
Finally, as mentioned above, some products such as indigo and Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste are sensitive to cold temperatures. During the colder months, we insulate such packages. You may request extra insulation for a fee if you live in a particularly cold area, or are concerned about your package staying outside until you come home. If you would like to request overnight shipping, you can call customer service with your order and request USPS Express shipping.
Indigo powder will lose its ability to dye if exposed to freezing temperatures.
8. Follow the Facebook Pages
We offer weekly discount days as well as occasional sales on special products. The best way to keep up with our promotions is to “like” our Facebook page and join our public group. All discount days and special promotions will be posted on these pages. New product releases will be announced here, as well as new blog articles.
The Ancient Sunrise Henna group is a great community of customers and staff members. We enjoy seeing photos of henna for hair results, and sharing techniques and mixes. This group is also a good way to ask questions and get answers outside of customer service hours. We sometimes use this group to ask for customer input through polls and surveys as well. If you have money-saving tips, perhaps share it with your friends in the group.
In the rare case that we close early or have technical malfunctions, we will make announcements on our Facebook pages. These pages are truly one of the best ways to keep in the loop with everything that may be happening at Ancient Sunrise®.
Our Ancient Sunrise Henna Facebook group is a great community full of henna novices and long-time users.
9. Take Advantage of Discount Days
We have special offers for call-in orders nearly every weekday. Our most popular discount day is Thrifty Monday. Every Monday, all products (except multipack prices, sale, and clearance) are 10% off. Orders must be placed directly with customer service through phone, email, or chat to receive a discount.
If you miss Monday, some or all of your order may be eligible for Relaxed and Natural Thursdays. The products we recommend for people with relaxed or natural textured hair will be 10%. This includes Ancient Sunrise® Rarity Henna, Ancient Sunrise® Delicate kits, Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo, Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia, Ancient Sunrise® Amla, Ancient Sunrise® Mango and Cocoa Seed Butters, Spellstone® hair combs and loc ties.
Finally, Fridays when you order directly with customer service, you won’t be charged more than $9 for domestic shipping.
10. Stylist Discount
If you are a stylist using Ancient Sunrise® products on clients, call customer service or email salons@mehandi.com to get set up with our discount program. Register with your copy of your cosmetologist license and spend $500 on qualifying Ancient Sunrise® products, then receive 25% off all future qualifying purchases. Start by purchasing any four Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits and getting a fifth free! Purchases up to the $500 requirement can be made over time as your henna for hair business grows. We’ll even list your business on our recommended stylist’s page. Please note that this is only for those who use our products in a salon, spa, or similar business, and requires a valid license.
11. Use your Rewards!
They say save the best for last, and this is the BEST out of all of our money-saving tips. Each time you place on Mehandi.com or with our customer service team, you’re earning rewards. Every dollar spent on product = 1 point; every 10 points earned = $1 off your purchase. When you use your rewards on an order, that order will not gain more rewards. If you’re not sure if you have rewards, you can click on this link: https://www.mehandi.com/MyRewards.asp. The best part? There is no expiration!
12. Referral friends, families, and anyone who loves your hair!
Visit Mehandi.com, scroll down to the bottom, and sign up for our referral program. For every successful referral you make, you’ll earn 100 reward points (that’s $10!). Plus, the person you refer will get $10 off their first order. Rewards are only added for genuine referrals.
Final Notes
We will always do our best to provide you with the best products for the best price we can give you. Please know that customer service representatives are not authorized to give out free products, to haggle on prices, or give discounts on non-promo days. Please do not harass them. Doing so will not increase your savings. Customer service will always help to decrease your costs as much as possible within the limits of what discounts are available. Remember to say thanks, and tell them how awesome they are! They work very hard and love to hear your success stories.
Now that you know the best money-saving tips for ordering at Ancient Sunrise®, you can treat your hair to wonderful products for years to come, and save yourself from the cost and hair damage of visits to the salon. Tell your family and friends! Use the money you’re saving to buy their first Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kit! Pitch in together to split a bulk order! We love spreading the henna love and are so happy you’re with us.
Author: Rebecca Chou Updated Jan 2022: Maria Moore
All hair must be washed from time to time. This depends on a person’s sebum production, their lifestyle, the climate of their surroundings, and ultimately, their preference. Neglecting to wash hair, or using ineffective methods of washing hair can cause a host of problems for the scalp and for hair growth. Learn more about hair care here.
Sebum is the oil that is naturally produced by the skin. Sebaceous glands produce sebum to protect skin from drying out by providing a waterproof layer. A build-up of sebum will cause hair to look greasy and weighed down, and will harden into a waxy state, collecting dirt and dead skin cells. This creates a great living environment and food source for bacteria, and tiny creepy crawlers. Waxy buildup of sebum blocks sebaceous glands, causing infection.
Sebaceous glands produce sebum which moisturize and protect the skin and hair, but too much will clog pores and create an environment for bacteria.
The skin produces a new layer of cells every day at the bottom of your stratum corneum, and exfoliates one layer every day. Sometimes the dead skin cells fall off and sometimes they stay in place and become nutrient rich biomes for fungi, such as the ones that cause dandruff and ringworm. Unchecked, these can evolve into lesions. Washing the hair regularly serves to ensure that dead skin cells are properly removed.
Washing hair too frequently with a strong detergent may dry the scalp and hair, leaving it unprotected. Many people experience irritation or contact dermatitis from harsh ingredients in commercial shampoos, causing them to search for other alternatives. However, some alternatives are ineffective, and may even cause more harm than good.
Most of us turn to a store-bought shampoo, whose active detergent is often Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, or a slightly milder Sodium Laureth Sulfate (both referred to as SLS). SLS is an extremely effective detergent, and does what it is meant to do: strip away sebum, oils, and dirt. However, SLS can be too harsh for some, causing dryness, irritation, and in the case of those with sensitivities to SLS, contact dermatitis. Other ingredients such as synthetic fragrances, can also cause irritation and allergic or sub-allergic reactions.
Commercial shampoos and soaps often contain sulfates, which produce a lot of bubbles. Bubbles are not required for a good clean, despite what companies might have you believe.
There are those who look to prevent the irritation they experience from commercial shampoos, or to avoid ingredients that may be harmful to their bodies or the environment. They turn to alternative methods of washing their hair, wash less frequently, or use water only. These alternative methods are often referred to as “no-poo,” short for “no shampoo.” Baking soda and apple cider vinegar is a popular method, as is “co-washing”, a method of using a conditioner-like product that does not contain a detergent. There are also a myriad of concoctions that can be made at home with common food items. These recipes are attractive due to their ease of availability and the feeling that that edible ingredients are safer and more natural.
Washing hair first with a baking soda solution, and then rinsing with apple cider vinegar has grown in popularity, and is perhaps the most common form of “no-poo.” While it has been hailed by some as something of a miracle treatment, there are many downsides. Baking soda is very alkaline, and vinegar is very acidic. Alkaline substances are shown to increase friction and static, causing damage to the hair. Overly acidic substances can be harsh as well. The logic behind using one after another is that the pH will balance out in the end. It doesn’t necessarily work that way, and the intense swing from one side of the pH scale to the other can wreak havoc on your hair and scalp. The fact that baking soda is a common kitchen item and used in cooking does not automatically make it safe or effective in hair cleansing.
Friction and desiccation cause hair strands to shed their protective outer scales, exposing the central cortex, which can stretch, split, and break.
Dry shampoos, bentonite clay, and other powder substances are used between shampoos by those who choose to wash their hair less frequently. While it absorbs some oil, the product remains in the hair. Dry shampoos do not effectively remove sebum and cause more buildup in the long run. Overuse of dry shampoo may cause hair loss, as irritated hair follicles begin to shed their strands.
Commercial hair product companies, looking to maintain their customer base, come out with new products that appear to be more natural, or contain new (often exotic) plant extracts or ingredients. A product which contains ingredients from a natural source is not the same thing as a product that is completely natural. Additionally, “natural” does not necessarily mean safer, healthier, or more effective. “Natural” has become more of a marketing method rather than an actual shift to safer and more effective ingredients. At the very best, these added ingredients may serve some beneficial purpose, but at the very least, they do nothing but make the product seem more appealing.
Zizyphus and its Benefits
With such a dizzying array of options and techniques available to clean the hair, and inconsistent information about the safety and effectiveness of each, it is reasonable to feel overwhelmed. Zizyphus powder is one option that is both natural and effective, thus making it a solid choice for those who wish to avoid sulfates and other harsh ingredients, as well as those who would like to shampoo less frequently. It functions as a two-in-one cleanser/conditioner.
Zizyphus, or Sedr, powder.
Zizyphus (or Sedr) powder has been used for centuries as a hair cleanser, well before the advent of commercial shampoos. The crop itself is a thorny desert plant whose leaves are harvested, dried, and ground into a powder. Like many plants in arid climates, it produces a plant wax to maintain moisture within its leaves.
The Zizyphus Spina Christi plant.
When used as a shampoo/conditioner, zizyphus’ thin, wax-like coating acts to smooth and moisturize the hair, as well as protect it from environmental damage.Zizyphus contains natural saponins (soaps) that are gentler than commercial detergents such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Studies have found zizyphus to have antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is an effective method for gently removing sebum and dirt without over-drying the hair and scalp. The result is clean, healthy hair with added shine and volume. Hair feels thicker after using zizyphus. Zizyphus is great for fine, limp, and damaged hair, as it adds weight and reinforcement to the hair.
Because zizyphus is not a dye, it will not affect a person’s hair color. Those who have light, graying, or white hair can use zizyphus to condition their hair with no color change.
Zizyphus is great to use before swimming! It prevents excess water from being absorbed into the hair’s cortex.
A zizyphus wash can be used regularly, or as an occasional conditioning and protective treatment. A zizyphus treatment would be great before a trip to the beach because it will protect the hair from salt, sun, and wind.
Use zizyphus before and during a camping trip. It is easy to store, and you won’t have to worry about rinsing commercial chemicals into lakes, rivers, or ground water. Those who wash their hair less frequently report that using zizyphus keeps their hair cleaner for longer, allowing them to go longer between washes. Using zizyphus every day is unnecessary, and may make the hair feel waxy.
Wet your hair, and use your hands to apply the paste near your scalp.
Scrub the paste against your scalp, and pull it through the length of your hair.
Leave the paste in your hair for 1-3 minutes, then rinse. Zizyphus contains some plant particulates, so those with thick or curly hair may prefer soaking their hair in the bath and rinsing with a small amount of conditioner, or with apple cider vinegar.
Dry and style as usual, and enjoy your shiny, clean, conditioned hair!
Zizyphus can be used every few days or once a week between regular washes, or as a shampoo alternative. Some find that using zizyphus allows them to need to wash their hair less frequently. Over-use may lead to build up of its natural coating properties, causing a feeling of stiffness or heaviness.
Maria applies zizyphus paste to her scalp, then pulls it through the length. After rinsing, her hair is shiny and thick.
Our employees also enjoy using zizyphus as a moisturizing body scrub. The plant particulates gently remove dry, rough skin while cleansing away dirt and oil. The skin is left soft and smooth, but not stripped. Zizyphus balances moisture levels and protects the skin with its thin wax barrier. To use zizyphus on the skin, simply mix it into a paste with water, wet the skin, rub small handfuls onto the body in a circular motion, and rinse. Avoid the eyes, and use externally only.
Ancient Sunrise® sells Zizyphus Spina-Christi powder in 100g packets. A little goes a long way. Call, email, or chat to ask any additional questions you may have about Zizyphus, and to place an order.
Henna dyes hair shades of red. Add indigo, and you’ll get brunettes, but what if you have gray, white, or light blonde hair and want to keep it that way? Mixes that have a higher amount of cassia, and a smaller amount of henna and indigo will help dye hair blonde. Tones that range from sun-kissed straw to deep, “dishwater” blonde are possible on lighter hair. These mixes are great for those who don’t want red, brown or black hair, and for those who wish to tint their grays to blend naturally with their root growth. This article will cover everything you might need to achieve your ideal blonde.
Cassia mixes dyed these mohair samples a range of blonde shades.
Cassia
Cassia auriculata is a plant dye powder that has similar benefits of cassia obovata. Clarity’s dye molecule, chrysophanic acid, is too weak to change hair color very much.
Cassia is sometimes incorrectly referred to as “neutral henna” or “colorless henna.” It is not henna, but it is used in a similar way. It needs to be dye-released with a mildly acidic liquid just as henna is, and it also provides hair with strength and shine.
This plant powder will not make dark hair lighter. All plant dye powders add color to the outer layers of the hair strand; none will lift the melanin contained within the hair’s cortex. This plant powder will act as a conditioner without altering the color.
Like henna, cassia’s color can be manipulated depending on a choice of fruit acid, when used with henna or henna and indigo. Fruit acid choices such as Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry and Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino will bring out brighter tones. The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Blonde kit contains Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia, Twilight Henna, Sudina Indigo, and Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino Fruit Acid Powder.
For richer color, greater permanence, and more control over warm and cool tones, one can increase or decrease the amounts of henna and indigo in a mix. The remainder of this article will discuss how to do this.
Adding Henna
The dye molecules from cassia are translucent, and less permanent than henna. Some find that cassia alone provides results that are too subtle and which fade over time. Adding a small amount of henna, a much more permanent dye, leads to warm blond results that do not fade.
Henna and cassia mixes will dye light hair a range of shades from strawberry blonde to bright, fiery orange. The more henna, the warmer and redder the results will be. For results that lean more toward blonde rather than copper, it is important to use a mix that contains a majority of cassia, and just a touch of henna.
Mixing henna and cassia results in warm blondes and light copper results. Note the image above was created using cassia obovata, which we no longer carry.
Feel free to play around with ratios by purchasing samples of the kits, and samples of cassia and henna to test on hair collected from a hairbrush or recent hair cut, or on a 1” section of hair on your head.
Adding Henna and Indigo
Adding both henna and indigo to a cassia mix will allow for darker blondes, and neutral to cool blondes. Equal proportions of both henna and indigo in small quantities added to a larger amount of cassia will result in neutral-to-warm deeper blondes.
The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kit in Chai contains 200g Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia, 50g Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight, and 50g Ancient Sunrise® Sudina Indigo. It is a 4:1:1 ratio of cassia, henna, and indigo. Its fruit acid, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose, assists in adding ash tones. The Chai kit dyes light hair medium to deep blondes. It is a very popular choice for those who wish to blend their gray hair into warm highlights.
Those who want cooler toned blondes can experiment with adjusting their henna and indigo ratios. In a majority cassia mix, more indigo will help to neutralize warm tones from the henna and cassia, resulting in cool. Ash blondes. To keep results light, cassia should always make up the majority of the mix, or about 75% minimum. Indigo should not be more than three times the amount of henna. Too much indigo will cause results to have a violet tinge.
Just a few possibilities for mixing cassia, henna, and indigo, and the expected results when applied to light hair.Please note that 100% cassia will not give golden tones, this is what you can expect with the current Ancient Sunrise Blonde Kit.
An example mix for a cool, lighter blonde on gray hair could be 6 parts cassia, 1 part henna, and 2 parts indigo. Mixes using all three powders can be more complicated, as there are more factors to control. You can read Full Coverage: How to Achieve Neutral or Cool Tones to learn more about mixing cassia, henna, and indigo to achieve your perfect cool-toned color.
Remember that ratios should be based on dry powder weight. If you need help converting weight to teaspoon/tablespoon measurements, feel free to contact the experts at customer service.
Using a mix of cassia and indigo without henna is generally unadvised. Both dyes are less permanent without the presence of henna. In some cases, a cassia/indigo mix may be used to tone away warm tones in hair that has been hennaed already and is too red.
Final Tips
Cassia is particularly sensitive to hard water. A build-up of minerals will turn cassia-dyed hair from golden yellow to a murky brown or awkward gray. It is highly recommended to use Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash to clarify hair prior to dyeing, and periodically afterward.
Hair that is dyed with cassia will become dark when subjected to minerals. Use Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Clarifying Treatment to keep hair light and bright.
Using Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash prior to dyeing will also ensure the best color results. Build-up may prevent adequate dye uptake, leading to weaker results.
As with any mix, it is better to start lighter and go darker. Many clients who are looking for blonde results specify that they want to stay as light as possible. For some, just a spoonful or two of henna and indigo for a full packet of cassia will be enough to achieve the desired results. Gradually deepening your results will be much simpler than unintentionally dyeing your hair too dark and trying to remove the color.
Conclusion
Hair that is dyed with natural plant dye powders doesn’t have to be red, brunette, or black. Blonde shades are great for those have have naturally light hair and want to keep it that way, and for those want to tint or brighten their gray hair without going too dark. Blonde mixes allow gray root growth to blend more easily into the length. Those who have used henna for hair products and wish to transition back to natural gray hair can use blonde mixes to do so.
It is important to keep in mind that cassia, henna, and indigo are all additive dyes, and cannot make the hair lighter. If one wishes to dye their naturally dark hair blonde with cassia, they can consider lightening their hair first, then dyeing the lightened result with a blonde mix. Remember to consult a professional stylist for lightening.
Henna is known for its ability to dye hair rich, vibrant shades that bring forth thoughts of copper pennies, autumn leaves, and crackling fires. However, not everyone wants to be a red-head. Those familiar with using natural plants dyes might know that combinations of henna and indigo will result in brown-reds and medium to deep brunettes. A two-step process will leave hair raven black. What a lot of people do not seem to know is that neutral and cool tones are possible with the right techniques.
A common concern voiced by new henna users is that even a henna/indigo mixture will result in a brunette shade that is too warm for their liking. Many prefer neutral to cool tones in their hair, as they believe it better suits their complexions. While somewhat tricky, neutral and cool toned hair colors are possible using the right combination of henna and indigo (and sometimes cassia), and the right fruit acid. Because each person’s hair varies on undertone, porosity, and dye-resistance, getting the perfect color may take some patience and strand-testing. Remember that our henna experts are available to talk you through the process, and help you troubleshoot if needed, until you achieve your perfect color.
A Quick Return to the Basics
If you have clicked around on this blog, in the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Free E-book, or in another of our many resources, you should be familiar with the processes of mixing and dye-releasing henna, cassia, and indigo. If not, feel free to pause here and glance over Henna for Hair 101: The Bare Essentials, and Henna for Hair 101: Choosing Your Mix.
Ratios for henna and indigo are easy to remember: Equal parts henna and indigo will result in a medium brunette. More henna will add more warm tones, and more indigo will darken the shade. Cassia makes henna and henna/indigo mixtures lighter, but does not lighten hair.
It may be logical to believe that the more indigo you add into the mix, the cooler the resulting shade will be. Yes… and no. Indigo on its own dyes hair a blue tone, and it neutralizes warm tones created by henna. However, adding more indigo to a medium brunette mix will create a dark brunette mix. That dark brunette result may still be a warm dark brunette due to henna’s red dye.
While using indigo is one part of achieving a neutral or cool hair color, the correct choice in fruit acid is equally important. Fruit acids can bring out bright, warm tones, or mute them. With an effective indigo component and the right fruit acid, you’ll be on your way to lovely neutral brunettes. If you’d like a lighter neutral color, such as those in the blonde family, a little extra tinkering will get you there.
Indigo
It is not uncommon for henna/indigo users to report that their roots are coming out too red, or hair appears redder over time. This is due to indigo’s higher tendency toward fading. Achieving an effective bind of indoxyl molecules to the hair will be particularly necessary for those who wish to avoid warm tones. This means understanding the chemistry behind the indoxyl/indigo molecules, and the most effective ways to ensure a permanent stain.
Indigo plant powder contains an indigo precursor molecule, indoxyl, which is immediately released when the powder is mixed with water. Indoxyl is a tricky, picky molecule. As soon as the indigo mixed into a paste, indoxyls look to bind with oxygen to transform into a stable indigo molecule. The indigo molecule will not bind to the hair. This process is similar to henna demise, but occurs much more rapidly.
It is important to mix indigo paste only right when you are ready to dye your hair, and work quickly once the paste is mixed. Preventing unnecessary exposure to air will keep the molecules in their indoxyl state longer, allowing them to bind to keratin rather than oxygen.
In the presence of oxygen, two indoxyl molecules bind with each other to form indigo, which is a stable molecule.
Once the dye is in the hair, the extent to which it binds to and stays in the hair is dependent on several factors including hair texture and the presence of dirt, oils, and mineral build-up. It is not uncommon to see a henna/indigo mixture begin as a nice, neutral brunette, and become more auburn as the indigo fades and the henna stays put. If you desire a cool or neutral shade, this is something you’d obviously like to avoid. Doing the following will ensure a successful and permanent indigo stain.
Black, gray, and white wool is dyed with indigo only, revealing shades of blue.
Clarify, clarify, clarify
Indigo binds best to squeaky clean hair. This means no oils, conditioners, hair products, dirt, grime, mineral build-up, leftover snacks, or fuzzy animal friends. At the very least, wash your hair thoroughly with a shampoo specially made for clarifying buildup. Clarifying shampoos are easily found at salons and beauty supply stores, and they are showing up more and more frequently now at regular drugstores as well.
Do yourself one better and start with Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment, and then follow that up with a good rinse with a clarifying shampoo. Wash your hair immediately before applying your henna/indigo mixture, and remember to skip the conditioner. Anything left on the hair creates an obstacle for the indoxyl molecules and increases the chances of a weak bond that will fade over time.
Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash is a natural treatment that removes mineral buildup. Mix 1 teaspoon of product with 2oz. distilled water to create a gel, and apply it to the hair, leaving it in for at least 15 minutes.
For those who have extra-resistant hair, we will recommend scrubbing the scalp and roots with a few drops of liquid dish soap. Dish soap is a very strong detergent and will wipe out any residual oils which might get in the way of a good indigo stain. Keep in mind that in doing so, the soap will dry out the scalp, but this dryness is temporary and can be fixed with a conditioning treatment after washing out your dye mixture. For the purpose of a good indigo stain, hair that is dry (absent of oils) and slightly roughed-up is the best. The hair closest to the roots is smoother and less porous, making it more resistant to dye.
Salt helps
For extra staying power, add 1 teaspoon of regular table salt (not sea salt or Himalayan; they contain minerals!) per every 100g indigo powder. The salt helps to strengthen the indigo’s bond to the hair by temporarily altering the surface texture of the hair strand, allowing a better stain.
Heat helps, too
After applying the henna/indigo paste and wrapping your hair with plastic, gently heat your hair. You can use a dryer bonnet, sit outside on a warm day, place a heated blanket or heating pad over your head, or aim a hair dryer at your head for a few minutes at a time. Heat opens the hair’s cuticles, allowing more dye to migrate into the shaft. Heat will also cut down on processing time. Under consistent warm temperatures (100F-140F), you can cut processing time roughly in half.
If you don’t have access to a dryer hood or heating pad, wrap your hair and sit somewhere warm. The towel or scarf will keep your body heat in the paste, and prevent dripping.
Fruit Acids
Henna should always be dye-released with an acidic liquid, or an acidic fruit powder plus distilled water. Some acids bring out and maintain henna’s bright, warm tones. Others mute the tones. You will want to use the latter.
The two best fruit acids for neutral and cool results are Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose and Ancient Sunrise® Amla.
Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose is derived from the purple aronia fruit, and is very high in anthocyanins. Anthocyanins are what cause blueberries to be blue. When used to dye-release henna, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose adds subtle ash tones to the henna, cooling the overall shade. Once the henna is dye-released and mixed with indigo, the resulting color is neutral without being overly dark.
The purple aronia fruit, similar to blueberries, is high is anthocyanins which add a subtle blue tone to henna mixes.
Ancient Sunrise®Amla powder is another solid choice. Amla mutes warm tones by pushing the henna dye molecules toward brown during the dye release process. Amla on its own is not a dye, and will not color hair. It simply tweaks the color the lawsone precursor molecules during dye-release. As an added bonus, Amla helps indigo bind more effectively by temporarily snapping hydrogen bonds in the keratin of the hair, allowing the indigo dye to migrate in more effectively. The result is a cooler and often deeper brunette without warm undertones.
Ancient Sunrise® offers pre-made Henna for Hair kits in Cool Brunette and Cool Dark Brunette, which both contain amla as the fruit acid. If you are looking for brown hair without red, a good place to start would be to order either or both sample kits to test, and then go from there. You may find that one works perfectly for you, or you can adjust the formula to create your own custom mix.
The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Kit: Cool Dark Brunette contains 100g Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna, 200g Ancient Sunrise® Sudina Indigo, and 25g Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder.
Getting Fancy: Cassia, Henna, and Indigo Mixes
Mixing cassia, henna, and indigo allows for a wide range of lighter neutral shades, from ‘hint of dirty blonde” to “coffee with cream brunette.” Cassia acts to “dilute” the henna and indigo in such a way that the hue remains stable, but the shade is made lighter.
Cassia and henna together make warm blonde to bright copper tones. Henna and indigo make red to dark brunette. All three together create neutral, muted results.
This will be explored in more depth in a future article. If your hair is lighter or gray, equal parts henna and indigo result in a medium brunette. Equal parts henna, cassia, and indigo will result in a light-medium brunette. Keep adding cassia until you have 80% cassia, 10% henna, and 10% indigo, and you have a mix which dyes light hair a deep blonde.
Some customers find that their hair still shows too much warmth with the Chai kit, so they decrease the henna. Because the mix contains mostly cassia, they can adjust the henna/indigo ratio without going darker. Remember that cassia is a light, translucent golden dye, and will not lighten hair.
Toning Warm Tones
If your mix comes out too warm, there are ways to calm it down. We generally recommend waiting a week after your first application because it can cool down on its own. If you’ve “been there, done that” and your hair generally is warm, it is okay to tone after your initial application.
To give your hair more of a cool tone, you will need cassia and indigo. The amount of each and the time will vary. Testing is crucial so that you don’t over do it and so that you aren’t wasting a lot of product. For more information on toning, visit Toning Henna – Part 1 and Toning Henna – Part 2.
Your Hair’s Natural Color
Henna, indigo, and cassia all stain the hair’s outer layers of keratin. This does not affect the hair’s natural melanin, which is one reason that the same mix will appear somewhat different on two different heads of hair. Genetics determine the amount of eumelanin and pheomelanin within the hair, which causes hair to be blonde, brunette, or red, and to have warm or cool undertones. Eumelanin causes hair to have ash tones, or to be dark. Black hair has the highest amount of eumalanin. Pheomelanin give hair red tones. Natural redheads have the highest levels of pheomelanin. Most hair colors have some ratio of both.
It will be more difficult to achieve a neutral or cool hair color with a very warm starting hair color. A natural redhead may have to play around with plant powder ratios and acids much more than someone who is starting with a medium ash blond, in order to achieve a cool brunette.
How to Begin
The best plan is to start with test samples, and determine which one provided the closest color to your goal. From there, you can adjust plant dye ratios, and try both Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose and Amla fruit powders. If your test sample came out too dark, increase cassia or decrease indigo. If it was too light, do the opposite. Remember that increasing the amount of fruit acid will not neutralize more red; doing so will only make the mix too acidic. Don’t hesitate to consult with a Customer Service Representative to fine-tune your mix. Remember to start lighter when in doubt. It is easier to re-apply with a darker mix than it is to lighten.
Samples are an affordable way to try out mixes before purchasing full-sized product. Each sample is enough to use on hairbrush hair, or a small section on hair on your head.
The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Facebook group is another great source for custom mixes and before/after photos from fellow customers. Use this as a resource to ask for tips, compare results and gauge your expected outcome. It’s also a great way to stay updated on new blog articles and special promotions!
Final Notes on Neutral and Cool Tones
Remember that your results will take about a week to oxidize into their final color. Hair can appear brighter upon first rinsing out the mix. Do not be alarmed if you see red or copper tones in your hair. Be patient, and wait that week before reapplying. During the oxidation period, the warm tones will diminish. If you are impatient, you may use heat to speed up the oxidation process. Heat will darken hennaed hair rapidly, and permanently. Keep this in consideration before beginning.
After the first initial application(s) of henna, there is no need to continue dyeing the full length of your hair each time. Because henna stains hair permanently and does not fade, repeated applications will darken the color over time as henna saturates the hair more and more. If you are not concerned with the darkening, or intend to darken the color, you are welcome to continue applying henna to the full length of your hair until you achieve the desired effect instead of just dyeing roots. It should be noted that your root area will be lighter.
If you are not concerned with darkening, or intend to darken the color, you are welcome to continue applying henna to the full length of your hair until you achieve the desired effect. Repeated applications will not cause damage; in fact, additional henna will continue to strengthen and thicken the hair.
Because henna stains hair permanently and does not fade, repeated applications will darken the color over time as henna saturates the hair more and more. If you are not concerned with darkening, or intend to darken the color, you are welcome to continue applying henna to the full length of your hair until you achieve the desired effect. Repeated applications will not cause damage; in fact, additional henna will continue to strengthen and thicken the hair.
However, if you are pleased with the color and intend to keep it as it is, keeping to root-only applications is an effective way to maintain your result. This cuts back on time and the amount of product needed. The first section of this article will review how to apply henna to the roots.
In some cases, henna users report their their henna or henna/indigo mix did not dye their roots sufficiently, leaving grays lighter, or a line of demarcation. The second section of this article explores potential reasons for roots and gray hairs appearing lighter than desired after a root touch-up.
How to Apply Henna to New Root Growth
Mixing for root applications is simple enough: Mix a smaller amount, keeping to the same proportions as a full head recipe. Most need anywhere between 30g-100g of powder for root touch-ups, depending on the length of your roots, the thickness of your hair, and the precision of your application. If you have a complex mix and need help converting it into a smaller quantity, feel free to contact the customer service representatives at www.mehandi.com.
Each henna user has a preferred method for root application. The carrot bag that is included in all Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits is useful for storing leftover paste in the freezer for future use on roots.
Note: Only henna and cassia mixes should be frozen. Indigo dye demises at freezing temperatures.
To use a carrot bag, simply fill the bag and tape or tie the end shut, snip the tip open, and squeeze the bag to apply the paste like frosting along your roots, using a gloved hand to push the paste into the hair and against the scalp. Others prefer to use a dye applicator bottle or condiment bottle with a pointed tip. This will work similarly to the carrot bag, and may be easier for some to grip and control. Another technique is to use a tinting brush, dipping it into a bowl of prepared paste.
Part hair into sections, and apply henna to roots section by section. Twist each section away before beginning the next one. Along the hairline at the forehead, temples, and neck. Wrap with plastic.
Using whatever tools you prefer, or gloved hands, apply the paste in sections, using the handle of a rattail comb to create a part a ¼ inch to the side of the area that has been hennaed, flipping the section over, and applying henna to the roots of the new section. Repeat until all roots are covered, wrap with plastic, and process for the same amount of time as a full-head application. A friend or a hand-held mirror may be helpful for applying to the back of your head.
A tinting brush, carrot bag, or your hands all work well for root applications. Use whatever is most comfortable for you.
Click here to watch a full-length demonstration by one of our Customer Service Representatives and licensed cosmetologist, Maria, applying henna to her mother’s roots.
Troubleshooting
Sometimes, customers report that their root application results are lighter than the rest of their hair, or even that some gray or white hairs were not fully covered, leaving a noticeable difference between their roots and the length of their hair. In the case of a henna/indigo mixture for brunette results, some may see that the henna has effectively stained the hair a copper color, but the indigo did not bind effectively, leaving the roots brighter and warmer than desired. There are several reasons for this happening, all of which are simple to fix or prevent.
In this photo, some roots were not completely covered, leaving them a lighter color. This is easy to fix.
Sebum and oils
The scalp continually produces sebum which serves to coat and protect the scalp and hair with a thin, waterproof layer. Some people naturally produce more sebum than others. The buildup of sebum will be highest closest to the scalp, then it spreads down the hair shaft. Indigo is particularly picky about the hair that it binds to. Any oils will cause the indigo to bind weakly, or not at all.
To ensure effective dye uptake, wash your hair very well with a strong detergent shampoo, taking extra care to lather and scrub at the scalp, and skip the conditioner. Do this just prior to applying henna. In the case of very resistant roots, washing the scalp with a small amount of dish detergent helps to strip oils and temporarily increase hair porosity for better results.
Mineral Buildup
The mineral content of tap water varies greatly from region to region. Hard water makes itself evident in the appearance of white residue on faucets, shower heads, and teapots. If you have hard water, you may be able to notice a metallic or sulfur smell when turning on the tap. Well water is more likely to contain a higher concentration of minerals. When you wash your hair, these minerals slowly collect onto the hair, causing a dry, brittle feeling and dulled color. The buildup of minerals blocks henna’s lawsone molecules from effectively entering and binding to the hair.
Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash mineral clarifying treatment removes minerals from the hair, leaving it brighter, softer, and easier to dye. It is a powder mixture of citric acid, ascorbic acid, and xanthan gum. Use it as a clarifying treatment prior to henna application, and periodically to keep hair bright, soft, and free of minerals.
Mix Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash with a small amount of distilled water and stir until you achieve a clear, gel consistency, similar to hair gel. Apply Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash evenly throughout the hair from root to end, and wrap with plastic. You may notice a metallic or sulfur smell while the product is in your hair. This is a sign that the Rainwash is working! It is dissolving the minerals out of your hair. For a first-time use, or for those with hard water, leave the mixture in the hair for 30-40 minutes. For periodic use (once every 1-2 weeks), leave it in for 10-15 minutes. Rinse out the product with warm water and a small amount of shampoo to ensure that the minerals are fully washed away.
Mix Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash with water to create a mineral-removing gel.
It is also important to make sure that the henna mixture itself does not contain unnecessary minerals. If you mix your henna with a fruit acid powder and water, or use water to dilute another acidic liquid, be sure to use distilled water. This will ensure that there are no minerals in your paste which might inhibit dye uptake.
Virgin Hair and Resistant Grays
The hair is healthiest at the roots, because it has not yet had time to incur damage. The cuticle lies flat and the surface is smooth, making dye uptake more difficult. Gray hair grows quickly, especially at the temples and the crown of the head. Because gray hair contains no melanin, it may require stronger, and longer dye applications, or more than one application to fully cover.
Washing the roots with a strong detergent such as dish liquid can help to temporarily dry out and “rough up” the cuticle so the roots can better absorb dye. If you use a henna/indigo mix, or a two-step process and see that the indigo isn’t binding effectively, add a small amount of table salt to your indigo when mixing it. One teaspoon of regular table salt per 100g of indigo is enough. Be sure not to use sea salt or Himalayan salt, as these contain additional minerals.
The indoxyl molecule in freshly mixed indigo paste is picky. It prefers hair that is completely free of oil and mineral buildup. Indoxyls will quickly bind to oxygen in the air to form indigo, if it does not have hair to bind to. It is essential to use the indigo as quickly as possible once it is mixed with distilled water. If you tend to apply your paste slowly, or have a lot of hair, split your prepared henna paste into portions, and mix only enough indigo for each portion. Mix new indigo only after you have used up each portion.
Indoxyls are intermediary molecules that bind with oxygen to become indigo. Oxidizing turns the molecule’s color from green to blue. When used in he hair, this reads as the brunette tones deepening over subsequent days.
Once the paste is applied, wrap your hair well with plastic. Because the temples and front of the hair line are most often the problem areas for coverage, it is helpful to apply an extra layer of paste to these areas before wrapping, and then using a gentle medical tape to seal the plastic down around your forehead and side burns to prevent exposure to air.
Mix smaller portions of henna and indigo at a time to prevent exposing indigo paste to oxygen for too long.
Orange Roots
You may know by now that henna goes through a period of oxidation during the first week after application. When using a mix that is all or mostly henna, it is perfectly normal for the color to appear too bright for the first few days. Indigo also undergoes a period of oxidation, sometimes even appearing to have a greenish hue, before settling along with the henna to the desired shade.
Hair dyed with a henna/indigo mix darkens during the first two weeks.
If your roots are consistently too bright, and remain that way after a week, consider switching your fruit acid, or adding more indigo. Fruit acids like Ancient Sunrise® Amla and Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powders help to lessen the brighter, brassier tones by muting and cooling them. Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino fruit acid powder pushes the henna color down a few shades, making for deeper auburns and brunettes.
If you wish to try adding more indigo to your future mixes, increase the amount by just a spoonful or two at a time, until you achieve the color you desire. Adding too much indigo too quickly can cause the hair to go darker than you may like.
Final Tips
Heat Helps
Processing with heat will help for a strong bond between dye molecules and hair. Sit outside on a warm day, cover your head with a warm cap, or periodically aim a blow dryer at your wrapped hair for a few minutes at a time. If you have access to a bonnet dryer, sitting under the dryer will cut processing time in about half.
Heat will also speed up oxidation and darken the color once you have rinsed the paste from your hair. Gentle heat will work more slowly, whereas a styling tool such as a straightener or curler will cause the color to deepen noticeably. A quick solution to darkening undesirably bright hair is to expose it to heat. Be aware that the darkening caused by heat is not reversible.
This mohair sample was dyed with henna, then heated with an iron on one end and darkened as a result.
Add More Indigo
Indigo Gloss
An indigo gloss is when you mix indigo and cassia together to tone mixes that are not darken enough, are too bright, or too orange/red. You read in more details about toning mixes in these blogs: Toning Henna – Part 1 and Toning Henna – Part 2.
Conditioner and Indigo
While some folks prefer to use conditioner mixed with indigo, we’ve found that this is not very effective. Most customers who have attempted this have seen little to no change. Any test that we’ve done has shown no changes.
An indigo gloss can temporarily bump the color a few shades darker.
Full Strength Indigo
To fix a more noticeable contrast, such as bright orange roots and deep brunette length, dab full-strength indigo paste (not mixed with conditioner) into the lighter areas, cover, and rinse after 10-15 minutes. Be sure that your hair is clean and free of oils before doing this. Do not leave indigo on for too long; indigo alone on recently hennaed hair will dye hair black, such as in the two-step method.
Do not apply indigo to hair that is still completely white, gray, or a pale yellow. If there are areas where henna did not stain the hair, reapply both henna and indigo. Indigo alone on light hair will result in green and blue tones. Keep in mind that unless the result of your root application is several shades lighter than the length, it is best to wait a week before attempting adjustments. Oftentimes the color will deepen and blend on its own during oxidation.
Indigo alone on light hair will dye it blue tones.
Reapply
If there is little to no color change after henna, and a stark contrast between new growth and length, feel free to reapply as soon as you’d like. There is no waiting time required between henna applications, and no harm in using henna frequently.
This model’s roots did not dye evenly, leaving some lighter. She reapplied her mix in the areas where it was needed.
Feel free to contact the customer service representatives at www.mehandi.com if you have any additional questions of concerns. They are available via phone online chat, and email, and specialize in custom formulas and troubleshooting.
Author: Rebecca Chou August 2017 Edited: Maria Moore August 2022
For the best coverage and permanent results, it is important to mix henna powder with a mild acid and allow the paste to sit for a period of time. This process is referred to as “dye-release.” Improper dye release can lead to weak stains that fade overtime, and undesired color results.
A Quick Chemistry Lesson
Henna leaves naturally contain lawsone, a red-orange dye. In powder form, henna will not stain keratin. Henna powder must be mixed with a liquid to allow hennocides, the lawsone precursors to be released from the plant material and migrate out into the paste. The precursors are converted into aglycones, through the replacement of the glycosyl group with a hydrogen atom. These hydrogen atoms function like the nub parts of puzzle pieces, so the dye can bind effectively to other molecules. Aglycones are intermediary molecules which will bind to other molecules to convert into a stable form. If the bond occurs with
keratin, the result is a permanent stain on the outer layers of the hair.
Acidity
Low pH (acidic) mixes are rich in hydrogens, which keep aglycones relatively stable until it is time to use the dye. This hydrogen-rich environment provided by the acid liquid allows for a longer and fuller dye-release as well as a more stable bond to keratin aglycones to bond to the keratin of the hair through a Michael Addition.
If the paste is left too long before use, the aglycones bind to surrounding molecules and to the oxygen in the air until there are no precursor dye molecules left to bind to the hair. This is called “demise.” Demised henna will result in poorer coverage with a weaker, less permanent bond. The resulting color may also be less vibrant. Full demise, at room temperature, begins twelve hours after mixing the paste, and is complete after one week.
The low pH level of an acidic henna paste allows the aglycones to remain stable for a longer period of time. This allows for a slow, steady dye-release for the optimal amount of available aglyones. Mixing henna without an acid (such as using only water) will cause the paste to have a weaker dye release which demises faster. The optimal pH level for a henna mix is right around 5.5, which can be achieved with a number of fruit juices, or the use of a fruit acid powder and distilled water.
Hennocide precursors convert into an aglycone state in a low pH environment, and eventually oxidize to a stable molecule.
Mixes that are alkaline or pH neutral will cause demise to occur more quickly. Without hydrogens to facilitate the Michael Addition bond, the stain will be weak, and fade over time. Therefore, water-only mixes, or alkaline liquids such as coconut milk are not recommended.
Temperature
The temperature of the mixture will affect the speed at which dye-release and demise occur. Some henna for hair brands recommend mixing henna with boiling water. While this causes an immediate dye-release, the dye is much weaker, resulting in light, brassy tones. On the other hand, cooler temperatures will slow or halt the chemical reactions. This is why it is possible to store leftover henna paste in the freezer for months without loss of effectiveness. Optimal dye-release occurs at room temperature after 8-12 hours, with full demise occurring after 48 hours.
Be sure to cover your paste with plastic to prevent unnecessary exposure to air.
The Best Dye-Release Method
For the best results, dye-release henna at room temperature (70-80 degrees, F) for 8-12 hours. To dye hair in the morning, mix the paste right before bedtime. To dye hair in the evening, mix the paste after you wake up. The paste will be at its best anywhere within the 8-12 hour window. After 12 hours, demise will begin. Paste left at room temperature for over 48 hours will give weak results. In a cool, or air-conditioned room (65-70 degrees, F), the paste may be left out slightly longer than 12 hours.
Henna at 65 degrees F will be ready between 8-12 hours, and demise slowly.
Checking for Dye-Release
When henna paste is ready, the surface of the paste will be a darker color than the paste underneath, and there may be some reddish-orange liquid collecting on top. Stir the paste and dip a fingertip into it, or apply a drop to your palm and wash it off after a minute. If a bright orange stain remains on your skin, the paste is ready.
Dye-released henna is darker on the top, like day-old guacamole. Stir it up and it’s ready to use.
In A Pinch
There may be times when you need your henna paste to be ready faster. Increase the temperature to decrease dye-release time, or take advantage of enzymes naturally occurring in apple juice to speed up the process without getting the brassy results that come with using boiling water.
Heat
Putting your paste in a hot environment (100 degrees, F or higher) will speed up the dye-release process considerably. A bowl of henna paste in a car on a hot day will dye-release within about one hour, depending on the car’s internal temperature. Placing your henna near a heater or outside on a sunny day will also speed up the process. You can also wrap your bowl of henna in a towel, and wrap a heated blanket around it, or place a heating pad over it.
Do not under any circumstance put a henna in the microwave or oven, or on the stove. The heat is high and uneven. High heat will “cook” the aglycones, rendering them useless.
The time required for dye-release drops very quickly in conditions above 100 degrees. Be sure to check your paste frequently for dye release. If left in a hot environment for too long, the paste will begin to demise.
Henna at 100-140 degrees F will be ready within about an hour.
Enzymes
Fresh apple juice contains enzymes that will expedite dye release by breaking down the plant powder’s cellulostic material. Henna powder mixed with apple juice will dye-release in about half the time. Keep an eye on your paste and check for dye release every hour or so.
Storing Henna Paste
If your paste has dye-released and you are not able to use it right away, put it in the refrigerator. Dye-released henna will stay good in the fridge for two days.
If you cannot use your henna for longer than two days, keep it in the freezer. Henna in the freezer will keep almost indefinitely. To store extra henna for future root touch-ups, separate the paste into portions using plastic bags or an ice cube tray. These portions will thaw quickly.
Henna can be stored in the freezer for several months. An ice cube tray is great for easy portioning.
Once brought back to room temperature, henna will continue its process of dye-release and demise. Do not leave dye-released henna out at room temperature for more than 24 hours. Leaving henna out long enough to thaw and to come up to a comfortable temperature for use if long enough. Some find that cool paste feels nice on the scalp on a hot day.
Troubleshooting
I Forgot the Acid
It happens. Maybe you were distracted by your cat doing something cute and forgot to add the fruit acid powder. Maybe you’re just jumping into the land of henna and didn’t know you needed an acid until now.
If it has only been a few hours since your mixed your henna, add the fruit acid as soon as possible and let it sit for the remaining time, checking for dye release around the eighth hour.
If you have a henna-and-water paste that has been out for 8-12 hours, there will have been a weak dye-release, as distilled water draws carbon dioxide from the atmosphere, becoming mildly acidic. Add the fruit acid powder, and allow the paste to sit for up to three more hours, checking for dye-release.
If you do not have an acid with you, stick your paste in the fridge or freezer until you get some. Orange, apple, and cranberry juice work fine. Apple cider vinegar works as well, if you don’t mind the smell. Do not use wine, coffee, milk, yogurt, or tea.
Because the paste was already previously mixed with water, there will have been some release of aglycones, and some demise. Adding an acid as soon as your remember will lead to better results, but the results may still be less than optimal.
If adding liquid will cause your paste to be too runny, add 1tsp of cream of tartar powder for every 100g henna powder, instead of a juice. Cream of tartar may result in a darker color. You can also mix more henna powder with warm lemon juice, and stir this into your existing paste.
I Left My Henna Out Too Long
At room temperature, henna will begin to demise after 12 hours, and fully demise after about 48. If it has been longer than 48 hours, most likely the paste done. Test the paste for dye-release. If there is little to no orange stain on your skin after leaving the paste on for one minute, the results on the hair will be light. If you choose to use the paste, you may have to reapply with new paste for best results. A henna/indigo mix using demised henna may result in green or blue tones which will fade quickly, as indigo needs henna to bind effectively to the hair. Often the best route is to throw out the paste and mix up a fresh batch.
My Paste Has Dye-Released, But I Can’t Use it Right Now
No worries. As mentioned above, cool and freezing temperatures will slow and halt demise, respectively. If you expect to be able to use your henns within a couple of days, put your bowl in the refrigerator. If you cannot use your henna for over a week, or if you are unsure about when you will be able to use it, keep it in the freezer.
My Mix is Mostly/All Cassia. How Can I Tell if it is Ready?
Cassia follows the same dye release schedule as henna. Because the dye is light and translucent, a stain-test will not show a bright orange stain like henna will. It is best to dye-release cassia and cassia-henna mixes at room temperature for 8-12 hours to be confident that the paste is ready. Henna and cassia are fairly forgiving, so leaving a mix out at room temperature for a few hours longer than necessary is better than using it too soon.
For more in-depth information about the dye-release process, see the following links:
