May 2021

Many people ask if they should bleach their hair before they henna. I decided to set up henna and bleach trials to see what differences I might get for different situations.

As we all know, lightening your hair is not always the ideal option, as this is a chemical hair process, but it can help achieve lighter colors that you may not be able to get by only hennaing. You can find more information in chapter 10 lightening your hennaed hair in our e-book.

Note: We recommend seeing a professional stylist to help you when lightening your hair.

Hair and Mix Prep

My test began with harvested hair from my brush. My natural hair color is black with no gray. When I use henna, my hair has a red shine in the sun with great conditioning benefits.

Each of the hair samples have different variables, however, they all were washed with Dawn dish soap before each henna application. I mixed Rarity henna with lemon juice and dye released at room temperature for 9 hours. All the samples had the same processing time of 4 hours, as well as controlled lightening times.

Trials

Test 1:
This particular sample hair was hennaed two times, then bleached. I redid this test because I left the bleach on the first sample longer than intended.

Test 2:
The hair sample in this test was hennaed, bleached, and hennaed again.

Test 3:
This sample was colored, bleached, hennaed, and hennaed again.

Test 4:
Hair sample number 4 was bleached to damage, hennaed, then hennaed again.

Test 5:
This hair sample was bleached, hennaed, and hennaed again.

These tests mimic what we see often in customer service. We understand that everyone who is new to henna likely has hair that has been chemically treated.

Henna and Bleach Trials in Photos

**1 hour before application**
I prepared my hair for the first henna application. Here we have the hair at different levels of lightening to see how the results may vary. Number 3 and 5 are very similar in color.

**8 hour after application**
Number 3 and 5 continue to be very similar.

**1 week oxidized**
The samples have darkened after oxidation. Number 2 is ready to get lightened.

**1 day after bleach (after henna application)**
Number 2 is very light compared to the others. It appears brighter than the hair when it is lightened before henna.

**2 weeks oxidized/1 week after henna**
Number 4 is still lighter than number 3 and 5, as they stay very similar.

**After application 2**
Henna application has helped to darken all samples.

**1 week oxidized after bleach**
The samples are darker with oxidation and we prepare to lighten number 1

**Right after damage**
Slight fail as I let the sample sit too long

**2 & 4**
Number 2 and 4 are similar in color. Number 2 does appear to be lighter.

**3 & 5**
Number 3 and 5 are still very similar.

**New 1**
I recreated number 1 to get a more accurate result.

**All samples**
Here are all samples done to see the difference.

**All natural light**
Here are the samples in natural light to see the difference from the concentrated indoor lighting.

In conclusion, the results were a little surprising to me. I knew that number 3 would come out darker because it was colored first. Numbers 1 and 2 are lighter than expected, as they both started with henna. Numbers 4 and 5 are exactly how I thought they would come out. Overall all of the samples are a lovely color.

To read about how henna can help damaged hair, check out this blog: https://www.ancientsunrise.blog/highlights-the-benefits-of-henna/

Damaris • Licensed Cosmetologist • Ancient Sunrise Specialist

In Toning Henna – Part 1, five recipes were tested on hennaed hair, post oxidation, while one recipe was testing on hennaed hair prior to oxidation. I noticed that the hair was different between each recipe, but I didn’t expect to see such a difference between the hair that was toned before and after oxidation, even with similar recipes.

Welcome to Toning Henna – Part 2, where we explore the same mixes, same time frames but all of the hair had the toning mixes applied before the henna had time to oxidize.

What is toning?
If you’re familiar with “henna gloss” or “indigo gloss,” then you’re already familiar with the idea of toning. Toning is a way to alter your hair color from the current color. It’s called “toning” because you’re fine tuning your hair color by adding the missing pigment that will help you get the color that you’re looking for. People tone or do glosses for many reasons, but the biggest reason is because their hair may have come out brighter and/or lighter than expected.
Toning can also be beneficial if you’ve made a mistake in your mix, such as using too much henna, accidentally leaving indigo out your mix, or even correcting a mix where the indigo had demised.
Maria – Toning Henna Part 1

Hair Prep

All of the mohair used was prepped by using a clarifying shampoo and the Twilight henna paste sat on the hair for 24 hours due to lack of body heat. Body heat allows us to keep the paste on for less time to get optimal results, so when testing on samples using henna, 24 hours is a good time frame).

Toning Mixes

All measurements are based on gram weights. A and B samples were left on the hair for 30 minutes and 60 minutes, where as C, D, and E were left out for 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes).

A 90% cassia; 10% indigo (30 minutes ,60 minutes)
B 75% cassia; 25% indigo (30 minutes, 60 minutes)
C 50% cassia; 50% indigo (15 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes)
D 25% cassia; 75% indigo (15 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes)
E 10% cassia; 90% indigo (15 minutes, 30 minutes, 60 minutes)

Mixing Prep

Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia and Sudina Indigo were used (Zekhara indigo can be used for toning as well). Both cassia and indigo powders were mixed together with distilled water right away. The paste should be a thick consistency, only slowly dripping off of the mixing utensil. The paste was applied right away after mixing.

Results

Toning Henna (Part 2) • Comparing Mixes

First Test vs Second Test

After observing the samples over a weeks time, I noticed that these samples looked much different than the first series of tests I ran. It’s important to note that the only difference between the first and second tests was that the first test was done after the hennaed hair had settled into it’s final color, while the second test took place before the hennaed hair had settled into its final color.

Hair from the first test is on top in each photo; hair from the second test is on the bottom in each photo.

Every hair swatch of the second batch of samples appear to be lighter and had less red tones. Warmer/red tones show lighter to the human eye because of how we see color, therefore if they were the same level of hair color, all of the bottom swatches would be darker.

It’s probably safe to assume that if one were to do a mix that didn’t come out as warm as straight henna, that toning, either immediately or after a week of letting the hair sit, the results would be cooler in general. It will be important to conduct these tests over different swatches of hair and different mixes. For now, an accurate assessment would be that if you want your hair darker and not as red, then doing a toning mix with cassia and indigo would be good.

Always test to find out what mix and time will work best for you and your hair. Contact our customer service team for assistance: helpdesk@mehandi.com or call 1-855-MEHANDI or 330-673-0600. Visit http://www.Mehandi.com and HennaforHair.com for more information.

Maria • Ancient Sunrise® Specialist • Licensed Cosmetologist