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Henna provides some great conditioning benefits, but these benefits go hand-in-hand with color change. The lawsone molecule binds permanently to the keratin in your hair, providing strength and shine while dyeing the hair. That’s great for those who wish to dye and condition their hair simultaneously. But what if you’ve already achieved your desired color, and want to regularly condition without seeing the color darken? Continued application of henna can cause the hair to become a darker and darker color. Or, what if you have light or gray hair which you wish to keep the way it is?
Ancient Sunrise® Cassia provides similar conditioning benefits as henna with little to minimal color change on darker hair colors. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi cleanses and conditions the hair with no color change at all. Repeated applications of henna can also cause curl pattern loosening for some. Some find that using Ancient Sunrise® Amla alone in the hair helps to bring back volume, while others find that cassia helps to restore their curls. This article will explain how to use Cassia, Zizyphus, and Amla powders as hair treatments that provide conditioning without color change.
The Plant Powders
Cassia Auriculata, Cassia Obovata, Zizyphus Spina Christi, and Amla (emblica officinalis) powders all work in different ways. Cassia works most similarly to henna. Its dye molecule, chrysophanol, binds to the hair much like henna’s lawsone molecule does. Cassia makes the hair shiny and strong, and for some, can restore the hair’s natural curl pattern. Cassia’s conditioning effects can last up to a month or longer. Zizyphus acts as a two-in-one cleanser/conditioner that adds a thin plant wax coating to the hair, protecting it from environmental effects, and giving the hair shine and strength. Zizyphus can be used weekly. Amla is not a conditioner as much as a hair treatment most useful for those who wish to give their hair extra body and bounce. Each of these powders has a unique process. Continue reading to learn the best ways to use them.
Cassia Obovata and Cassia Auriculata Powder
For Benefits Similar to Henna, and for Curls
Ancient Sunrise® Cassia is great if you love the way that henna makes your hair strong and shiny, but want to avoid repeating full-head henna treatments which may darken your color. Cassia can be used in one of two ways:
For a quick conditioning treatment, mix Ancient Sunrise® Cassia powder with distilled water and apply immediately. Cover and leave it on the hair as long as desired (one hour is good). This is a good method for those who have light or gray hair and do not want a noticeable color change. This method will condition hair with little to no color change, but will not yield effects that are as strong or permanent as the method below.
For a more effective, and longer-lasting conditioning treatment, mix cassia with a mildly acidic liquid or an Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powder and distilled water, and allow it to dye-release at room temperature for 8-12 hours just as you would with henna. Apply, cover, and leave in the hair for one hour to several hours. Those with darker hair will not see any color change. Lighter or gray hair will be dyed a golden tone.
Ancient Sunrise® cassia, like Ancient Sunrise® henna, can be applied to either damp or dry hair. Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia has a fine sift and is great for those with thin, delicate, and damaged hair.
Important: Cassia’s dye molecule reacts poorly with minerals. The golden tone can become muddy and brown if you have mineral build-up in your hair. It is best to do a Rainwash treatment ahead of time for the best results.
Cassia can be used as a conditioner once a month, or more frequently if desired. Its effects are not as permanent as henna; it is fine to apply a new treatment whenever you feel your hair needs it.
Cassia Auriculata has a weaker dye molecule than Cassia Obovata, but it is a great replacement. You can learn more about Cassia Auriculata here: http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/Clarity_cassia-auriculata.pdf.
Zizyphus Spina Christi Powder
For Clean, Shiny Hair Protected Against the Elements
Zizyphus Spina Christi does not contain a dye molecule. Its natural saponins and plant wax clean the hair and protect it with a thin, flexible layer. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus is perfect for those who want absolutely no color change. Use zizyphus before and/or during a trip to the beach or the great outdoors. It protects the hair from salt water, wind, and dirt. Some notice that they can wash their hair less frequently when using zizyphus (Note: Please wash your hair once it feels greasy, or smells bad.) It is quicker and easier to use than cassia, but its effects are washed away after a number of shampoos.
To use Zizyphus Spina Christi powder, mix a heaping tablespoon of powder with distilled water until it becomes a fluffy paste. Bring this paste to the shower with you, and set it nearby, but away from the direct stream of water. Wet your hair, and apply the paste from scalp to ends, massaging your scalp. You may need to work in sections. Leave the paste in your hair for several minutes, then rinse. If you are having trouble rinsing the paste completely, use a small amount of conditioner or a vinegar rinse to give your hair more slip. Dry and style as usual. You can use zizyphus once or twice a week. More often may cause a build-up of the coating, causing your hair to feel stiff or waxy.
As zizyphus creates a hydrophobic barrier over the hair, make sure to wash your hair with a normal detergent shampoo prior to applying a plant powder dye to ensure effective dye uptake.
Important: If you are sensitive to latex, conduct a patch test before using zizyphus. Those with latex allergies often experience a cross-reaction when using zizyphus.
Read more about Zizyphus Spina Christi here.
Amla (Emblica Officinalis) Powder
For Fluffy, Voluminous Hair
As noted earlier, amla is not necessarily a conditioner in the same sense as cassia and zizyphus are. It is acidic, and therefore may be drying for some. When used in a plant dye mix, amla can prevent the curl loss that sometimes occurs with henna. On its own, amla can give the hair more volume and bounce. It does this by temporarily loosening the hydrogen bonds in keratin, allowing the hair to be reshaped.
Mix Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder with distilled water into a thin paste. It does not have to be as thick as henna. Apply from roots to ends, cover, and leave in for 10 minutes. Rinse, and set towel-dry hair in a braid, curlers, or another heatless curl method. When the hair is dry, it will be fuller and fluffier.
Ancient Sunrise® Amla can be used as an acid to dye-release cassia. Mix 25g amla for every 100g cassia, and add distilled water. Follow the instructions above for applying and processing cassia.
Read more about various uses for Ancient Sunrise® Amla Powder here.
Final Notes
Repeated applications of any of these methods will show more improvement in hair quality over time. Conditioning protects the hair against damage, and balances moisture retention, allowing the hair to stay stronger longer. For best results, use Cassia monthly (or more often if desired), Zizyphus weekly, and Amla whenever you wish to add some temporary oomph to your hair. These methods can all be used on hair that has been treated with plant dyes, as well as hair that has not.
If you have any additional questions about using these products to add strength, shine, and body to your hair, feel free to contact a Customer Service Representative via phone, email, or online chat.
Author: Rebecca Chou
Updated by Maria Moore 11/16/22
Some henna users report that their hair feels dry, coarse, brittle, or unmanageable after washing out their henna. What is happening is the hair is going through a temporary state. This temporary state has little to do with moisture or lack thereof, and more to do with the hair’s physical structure. The process of dyeing with henna can cause a temporary change on the surface of the hair strand. The hair goes back to its normal texture within a couple days. Smoothing can be expedited with conditioning or an apple cider vinegar rinse.
This article will discuss the physical structure of hair, the sensory interpretations of “dry” and “moisturized,” and offer solutions for lessening the undesirable texture which some may experience during the first few days following a henna treatment.
A strand of hair is not one solid thing. If you were to see a cross sections of it under a microscope, you’ll notice that a hair strand is built of many tiny scales of keratin overlapping each other in layers over a central core. The outer layers of keratin are relatively hydrophobic, or waterproof, and surround a central cortex composed of a bundle of long cells called cortical cells, which contain DNA information and melanin. The cortex is more prone to water swelling than the outer layers. This is what causes hair to stretch further when wet.
A strand can only stretch so far and be able to spring back to its natural length. Beyond that extent, the strand will remain stretched and in a weakened state. Beyond that still, the hair will break. Excessive moisture within the cortex weakens the hair structure and leaves the hair vulnerable to stretching and breakage. The right balance of moisture is necessary to maintain healthy structure. Healthy hair does this on its own with its layer of hydrophobic keratin cuticles and the thin coating of oils produced by the scalp.
If it helps, think about hair like a bundle of cooked spaghetti coated with layers of tiny shingles made of the same material as your fingernails. You want the spaghetti to stay al-dente. Too wet, and the spaghetti will stretch and break. Too dry, and the spaghetti will also be vulnerable to breakage. The cuticle barrier is extremely important in regulating moisture within the cortex. When damage is incurred on the surface, gaps formed by broken or missing cuticles contribute to the hair’s overall weakened state, from a weaker outer structure to a more exposed inner structure.
All hair is subject to weathering over time. The cuticle structure is relatively resilient. Hair can flex, stretch, and be exposed to daily friction and tangles and still be healthy. Hair that is straight tends to have a rounder diameter, like mechanical pencil lead, while curlier hair would appear elliptical when observing a cross section. The cuticles of straight hair tend to overlap more tightly, while cuticles on curly hair have more space between them. Because of the way cuticles are arranged, those with curly hair sometimes find that their hair is more prone to breakage.
It is normal that the cuticle layer is tighter and thicker near the scalp, where the hair is newly grown and has not yet had time to experience damage. Nearer to the ends, the hair is older and apt to have a thinner cuticle layer that is more jagged. Split ends are the result of the complete loss of the cuticle layer, and the splitting apart of the inner cortical bundle.
Hair that has been processed with chemicals or otherwise damaged will have cuticles that stand up more rather than cuticles that lay flat against one another. Environmental factors can temporarily alter the hair’s cuticles. On windy days, your hair is thrown around, and the friction between strands causes the cuticles to lift. The strands tangle as the lifted cuticles catch onto one another. Dirt and build-up in the hair can further exacerbate tangling.
You may notice that on humid days, your hair is more frizzy. Moisture can cause the cuticles to be raised, and for the structure to weaken. This is why hairstylists advise against brushing wet hair, When hair is wet, it is more prone to stretching. All healthy hair will stretch a little and bounce back, like a coiled spring. Using Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi to wash and condition your hair is a great way to keep it smooth and prevent excess moisture from weakening your hair.
When the cuticles are raised, the hair feels “dry” or coarser and less manageable. We often misinterpret this texture as “dryness”, believing that the hair is lacking moisture. As mentioned above, moisture itself can sometimes cause raised cuticles, so clearly this is not the case. It is simply a temporary change in the physical shape of the hair strands as a reaction to its environment. While dry and damaged hair can also exhibit similar physical changes, the two are not synonymous.
Similarly, just because hair is artificially smoothed with silicones and glycerols, it does not necessarily mean that the hair is in a healthier or more moisturized state than it was prior to conditioning. Think of it this way: silicones and glycerols are also used in skincare and cosmetics, to smooth the surface of the skin, filling in fine lines and softening textural imperfections. Does that mean that your skin has suddenly become less wrinkled? No; it is a temporary fix to the way the surface of the skin feels and appears from the outside. As most of us have used store-bought hair care products since youth, we have been brought up with an implicit notion that tangled, crunchy feeling hair indicated dryness, and smooth, sleek hair indicates moisture.
During a henna treatment, moisture and acidity from the paste, along with the intermediary dye molecules migrate into the outer layers of the hair strand. The dye bonds to the keratin with the help of a Michael Addition bond. This process plumps the cuticle in a way similar to how fingertips become prune-like after a long soak in the tub. If your hair is not rinsed well enough, residual paste can also cause the hair to feel gritty and tangled, just as it might if there was some dirt in your hair. As the dye molecules settle into their places and oxidize, and the residual particles of the henna paste leave the hair, the sensation of dryness decreases.
Because henna’s dye molecule binds to keratin in a lasting way, the hair is strengthened and reinforced. The added reinforcement prevents breakage and balances moisture levels. Henna does affect the physical texture of the hair, so those with naturally curly hair may see a loosening of their curl pattern. For some, this comes as a blessing. For others who want to maintain their bounce, adding amla into the henna mix prior to dyeing can help to maintain the curl pattern.
Despite common misunderstanding, henna does not coat the hair; the lawsone migrates into the outer layers of keratin, staining them. The difference is like pouring sprinkles over an ice cream cone, versus dipping it in chocolate shell. Hair that has been hennaed can still absorb outside moisture, and it can be treated with oxidative dyes, lighteners, and relaxers, as long as only Ancient Sunrise© products have been used. Henna products that have not been lab tested for purity may contain metallic salts and other chemical adulterants that will react badly to other chemical treatments.
Now that you know the truth about how your hair’s texture changes, here are some ways to help your hair feel smoother, softer, and more manageable sooner after dyeing your hair with henna.
If you have a bathtub, the easiest way to ensure that the henna paste is fully rinsed out is to fill the tub with warm water and lie back, allowing your hair to submerge fully. Swish your hair around and move your fingers through your hair until all of it is moving freely in the water. This method is often referred to as the “mermaid rinse” or as our owner, Catherine Cartwright-Jones like to call it, the “swamp queen rinse.”
Afterward, drain the tub and work a large handful of conditioner through your rinsed hair. This will help any remaining paste to slip out more easily. Rinse with fresh water and repeat if necessary, until the hair feels smooth, then wash and dry your hair as you normally would. There is nothing wrong with washing and shampooing hair immediately after dyeing it with henna. Lawsone binds to the hair permanently while the paste is in contact with the hair, and washing will not cause anything to loosen except for residual paste matter and dye that did not attach during the processing time.
If you prefer not to use conditioner, diluted apple cider vinegar will help to smooth the hair and close the cuticle. Rinsing with cool water also helps the cuticle to tighten and close.
Because the texture of the hair after henna is so frequently mistaken as dryness, some people choose to add ingredients such as coconut milk or oil, egg, milk, yogurt, and other plant oils to their henna mix to prevent this feeling of dryness. Now that you know the truth, you’ll understand why adding food to your henna is unnecessary. These ingredients will inhibit proper dye uptake.
Highly acidic mixes can dry the hair and scalp, and irritate those with sensitive skin. This is especially common with mixtures using lemon juice. If you experience a sensation of itching along with dryness, consider switching to a milder acid such as Ancient Sunrise© Kristalovino and Malluma Kristalovino acid powders. These acids are derived from grapes, and much gentler on the hair and scalp.
All Ancient Sunrise© Henna for Hair powders are Body Art Quality, which means they are finely sifted and free of twigs, leaves, sand, and other particulates that can get caught in the hair. The process of applying and rinsing the paste can cause some level of friction, so those who have delicate and damaged hair may choose to use the following products, which have the absolute finest sift for the smoothest paste:
–Ancient Sunrise© Rarity Henna
–Ancient Sunrise© Zekhara Indigo
–Ancient Sunrise© Zekhara Cassia
The above products are also perfect for those with thick, curly hair because they will rinse out cleanly and easily, with no residue. So if your hair feels dry, just give it some time. As always, feel free to contact Customer Service at www.mehandi.com if you have any questions or concerns, and read the Ancient Sunrise© Free Henna for Hair E-Book to learn more about dyeing hair with henna.
Author: Rebecca Chou September 2017
Edited: Maria Moore August 2022