Ancient Sunrise Clarity Cassia (cassia auriculata) is a powdered organic plant leaf that is 100% natural and pure. It is a natural plant based hair conditioner and can be used to condition all hair types. (Yes, even chemically dyed hair and 4c natural hair.) Clarity cassia is super easy to rinse, too! Keep reading to learn more about cassia benefits for hair.
I have been dyeing my hair with Ancient Sunrise plant dyes for more than ten years. Henna for Hair is a site dedicated for the use of henna for hair color and can answer your questions about using plant based hair color. I consistently achieve beautiful results when I use henna and indigo on my graying hair. Two years ago I started adding cassia for conditioning as well.
The Beginning of my Cassia Obsession
Our staff Cosmetologist incorporated the Cassia into my henna mix for the first time to dilute the paste’s stain. We were trying to avoid darkening the original color. The cassia diluted the mix enough to safely apply over ten years of henna and indigo applications.
See this previous blog for the full story and tips for maintaining graying brown hair with henna and indigo.
Adding the cassia to my henna mix gave my ten year hennaed hair more shine and brightness. It also conditioned my hair and gave me lots of volume. It even tamed those pesky grays at the temples, smoothing out the frizz!
Henna also conditions the hair but adding the cassia takes it up a notch. My hennaed hair is primarily gray now and has gone from poker straight to having a nice wave. The cassia lifts and defines curls and enhances wavy hair.
I applied heat to create a beachy wave after using cassia and the results were great. The waves lasted for three days with a little touch up! The waves fell naturally with minimal styling effort.
The treatment can be applied all over your hair to condition. 4c natural hair types can use the baggie method if the conditioning is only needed on dry ends, too. It’s a great, natural, home conditioning treatment. Damaris and I are working on a blog to show you how to use the baggie method. Check back soon or add us to your RSS feed so you’re notified when it’s live.
Sneak peek of the Cassia baggie conditioning method. Come back to see the process in our next blog.
Cassia Benefits for Hair
Conditioning. Cassia makes dry hair soft and manageable. You can use it all over or as a spot treatment for dry ends.
Volumizing.
Lifts and defines curls and waves.
Helps hold hair style for up to 3 days.
Adding Cassia into your henna mix makes it a two in one conditioning mask and all-natural hair dye application.
Closing Thoughts
Our Clarity Cassia is a pure, organic, fine sift, all natural, plant based hair conditioner. It can be used on all hair types including natural hair, 4c natural hair and chemically treated or damaged hair. Remember to clarify your hair before the application. You can do it the day of or the day before, and Rainwash works great for this. For best results, cassia needs to be dye released 8 -12 hours before application. Instructions here.
Evie’s mix is 1 Cup Clarity Cassia to 2 Tablespoons of henna. The mix was dye released and applied over dishwater blonde creating a brighter medium blonde.
Cassia will not change the color of your hair unless other plant powders are added to the mix. Cassia is used in the Ancient Sunrise kits that allow you to achieve golden blondes, bright reds, and medium blonde shades. Our Blonde, Fire, Sunshine, and Chai hair kits contain cassia and other plant powders. (Psst! You can save 10% on all of our cassia products until 4/15/23.)
Ancient Sunrise Blonde Kit on gray hair.
Contact our customer service team at 1-855-634-2634 if you have any questions or need help placing your order.
In Toning Henna – Part 1, five recipes were tested on hennaed hair, post oxidation, while one recipe was testing on hennaed hair prior to oxidation. I noticed that the hair was different between each recipe, but I didn’t expect to see such a difference between the hair that was toned before and after oxidation, even with similar recipes.
Welcome to Toning Henna – Part 2, where we explore the same mixes, same time frames but all of the hair had the toning mixes applied before the henna had time to oxidize.
What is toning? If you’re familiar with “henna gloss” or “indigo gloss,” then you’re already familiar with the idea of toning. Toning is a way to alter your hair color from the current color. It’s called “toning” because you’re fine tuning your hair color by adding the missing pigment that will help you get the color that you’re looking for. People tone or do glosses for many reasons, but the biggest reason is because their hair may have come out brighter and/or lighter than expected. Toning can also be beneficial if you’ve made a mistake in your mix, such as using too much henna, accidentally leaving indigo out your mix, or even correcting a mix where the indigo had demised. Maria – Toning Henna Part 1
Hair Prep
All of the mohair used was prepped by using a clarifying shampoo and the Twilight henna paste sat on the hair for 24 hours due to lack of body heat. Body heat allows us to keep the paste on for less time to get optimal results, so when testing on samples using henna, 24 hours is a good time frame).
Toning Mixes
All measurements are based on gram weights. A and B samples were left on the hair for 30 minutes and 60 minutes, where as C, D, and E were left out for 15 minutes, 30 minutes, and 60 minutes).
Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia and Sudina Indigo were used (Zekhara indigo can be used for toning as well). Both cassia and indigo powders were mixed together with distilled water right away. The paste should be a thick consistency, only slowly dripping off of the mixing utensil. The paste was applied right away after mixing.
Results
Original Control
Henna Control
After washing
Toning Henna (Part 2) • Comparing Mixes
First Test vs Second Test
After observing the samples over a weeks time, I noticed that these samples looked much different than the first series of tests I ran. It’s important to note that the only difference between the first and second tests was that the first test was done after the hennaed hair had settled into it’s final color, while the second test took place before the hennaed hair had settled into its final color.
Hair from the first test is on top in each photo; hair from the second test is on the bottom in each photo.
90% cassia, 10% indigo (30 minutes)
90% cassia, 10% indigo (60 minutes)
75% cassia; 25% indigo (30 minutes)
75% cassia; 25% indigo (60 minutes)
50% cassia; 50% indigo (15 minutes)
50% cassia; 50% indigo (30 minutes)
50% cassia; 50% indigo (60 minutes)
25% cassia; 75% indigo (15 minutes)
25% cassia; 75% indigo (30 minutes)
25% cassia; 75% indigo (60 minutes)
10% cassia; 90% indigo (15 minutes)
10% cassia; 90% indigo (30 minutes)
10% cassia; 90% indigo (60 minutes)
Every hair swatch of the second batch of samples appear to be lighter and had less red tones. Warmer/red tones show lighter to the human eye because of how we see color, therefore if they were the same level of hair color, all of the bottom swatches would be darker.
It’s probably safe to assume that if one were to do a mix that didn’t come out as warm as straight henna, that toning, either immediately or after a week of letting the hair sit, the results would be cooler in general. It will be important to conduct these tests over different swatches of hair and different mixes. For now, an accurate assessment would be that if you want your hair darker and not as red, then doing a toning mix with cassia and indigo would be good.
Always test to find out what mix and time will work best for you and your hair. Contact our customer service team for assistance: helpdesk@mehandi.com or call 1-855-MEHANDI or 330-673-0600. Visit http://www.Mehandi.com and HennaforHair.com for more information.
Maria • Ancient Sunrise® Specialist • Licensed Cosmetologist
A fun way to cool down when you’re feeling a little toasty is to apply cold cassia on a hot day. It’s a nice refreshing feel on the scalp. It’s like that snack you can’t get enough of.
Hair Prep
As always you want to start with freshly cleaned and clarified hair. Applying Rainwash was easy. Taking ¼ inch sections, I got through and applied evenly. While I let the Rainwash sit on my hair for 40 minutes, I mixed my cassia up. I washed my hair the night before and braided it up, so I could apply in the morning.
The Mixing
I mixed 200 grams of Clarity Cassia with orange juice to sit overnight for about 10 hours at room temperature. Then to get that cool effect, I put my paste in the fridge for 2 hours. If you’re not sure what to dye release your Ancient Sunrise® cassia with, read this article: Dye Releasing Henna/Cassia with Items in your Home
Time to get started!
I was a little bit skeptical at first, wondering if the paste would be too cold. So, I tested the water, like you do in the pool. I tapped a small amount of paste to my front hairline. I was AMAZED! It was like the icy feeling of chewing mint gum.
I started applying the paste in the back of my head. Taking my ¼ inch sections, from the top, I worked my way down to the bottom. After about an hour I had all of my hair covered and was feeling cooled off.
Now to enjoy some sun after wrapping my hair.
After 3 hours of fun in the sun, lunch and nap time, it’s time to wash out the cassia.
The results are in.
Final results on done hair.
My hair feels great! Styled and done, I can see the difference. My ends aren’t as crazy and twist very well. I would definitely apply cold cassia on a hot day again. Stay cool!
Damaris • Licensed Cosmetologist • Ancient Sunrise® Specialist
Liz is using distilled water with citric acid and henna.
Working in customer service, we frequently hear “What happens if I use the Rainwash to dye release my henna?” and “I accidentally used Rainwash instead of my fruit acid to dye release my henna; will it still work?” Well, we’re going to do a small set of tests because we want to find out will Rainwash effectively dye release henna and cassia?
Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash is made up of three ingredients: citric acid, ascorbic acid, and xanthan gum. We know that this is acidic due to the citric acid and ascorbic acid. One teaspoon of Ancient Sunrise® citric acid is needed for 100g of Ancient Sunrise® henna and/or Ancient Sunrise® cassia, so I’ve decided to use the ratio of 5 grams of Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash to 100g of Ancient Sunrise® henna and/or Ancient Sunrise® cassia. Ancient Sunrise® indigo does not need an acidic component and therefore will be mixed with distilled water before combining it with henna.
Note: Mixing Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash with your henna paste will not take the place of using the Rainwash as a mineral removing treatment prior to your application. You still need Rainwash or a clarifying shampoo prior to every henna application for best results.
Setting up the Mixes
Key: RW = Rainwash g = grams CA = Citric acid
Rainwash Mix:
RW A
RW B
RW C
Henna only
Henna and Cassia
Henna and Indigo
Henna – 6 g
Henna – 3g
Henna- 3g
RW – 0.31 g
Cassia – 3g
RW- 0.16g
RW – 0.31g
Indigo- 3g
*Distilled water was used for the liquid
Citric Acid Mix:
CA A
CA B
CA C
Henna only
Henna and Cassia
Henna and Indigo
Henna – 6 g
Henna – 3g
Henna- 3g
CA – 0.31 g
Cassia – 3g
CA- 0.16g
CA – 0.31g
Indigo- 3g
*Distilled water was used for the liquid
When mixing the henna and cassia with Rainwash, I noticed that the paste seemed smoother than when using citric acid. This is due to the xanthan gum in Rainwash, which creates a gel-like texture when mixed with a liquid. The paste also stuck to itself and the mixing utensil more than the other batch of samples that were mixed with citric acid. (The powders all seemed to take more water than I thought they would need.) I had the henna and cassia/henna paste all sit for 8 hours in 72 degrees Fahrenheit.
Prior Dye Release
Post Dye Release
The samples dye released efficiently and the color of each mix was very similar to each other. Mixing in the indigo did take a lot of mixing since I wasn’t using a whisk.
Tip:If you see brown or green streaks in the paste, keep mixing until all of the paste is one color. Applying the paste to the hair that has streaks of different colors will result in an uneven application.
Hair prep
Each hair sample used was prepped with Rainwash and Dawn dish soap. This helps eliminate mineral build-up and oils. Then they were towel dried before applying the pastes to the hair samples.
The Results
Control
While washing the hair, some of the samples matted up a little more than others, hence the slight variation in shape in the images below.
Citric Acid Mixes
(A) After First Wash
(A) After oxidation
(B) After First Wash
(B) After oxidation
(C) After First Wash
(C) After oxidation
Rainwash Mixes
(A) After First Wash
(A) After oxidation
(B) After First Wash
(B) After oxidation
(C) After First Wash
(C) After oxidation
The color of RW-C after washing the sample out is much difference than CA-C.
The results were similar to each other, but there are some differences worth noting. It’s interesting that groups A and B look more similar before oxidizing. In fact, the Rainwash mixes almost look like they’ve may have faded slightly. This would make sense, since the Michael Addition may not have been able to fully bind due to the xanthan gum.
Seven days after the initial application and washing the hair four times, I viewed the samples side by side for color comparison since the color had finished oxidizing. See the comparison notes below:
Side by side comparisons of oxidized mixes:
CA-A
RW-A
The A samples look similar to each other, but you can see that the CA-A is slightly deeper in tone than RW-A after oxidation. The samples look similar in person.
CA-B
RW-B
Group B is the most identical when looking at the results in person.
CA-C
RW-C
Here we see that in group C we have the biggest difference. CA-C is not as warm in color and is darker than RW-C. This is the same when looking at it in person.
It is safe to say that the xantham gum in the Rainwash impacted the indigo mix the most. The other two groups have only slight differences.
In conclusion, you might be able to get away with using Rainwash in a pinch to dye release henna and cassia since the results are similar to using citric acid. I do not recommend using the Rainwash in a pinch if you plan to use indigo in your mix because the color was lighter and may not work for the results you’re wanting. Due to the xanthan gum, it’s best not to plan on using Rainwash as we do not know if the hair may fade over a long period of time since these samples were tested for a shorter period of time. So…did Rainwash effectively dye release henna and cassia? It seems so, but just count on maybe having to overlap a little when you touch up your roots next.
People have been using plants and other materials to change the color of their hair long before commercial hair dyes were invented. The resurgence in natural and DIY beauty has led to a long and strange list of ingredients being mixed up and put on the hair. Many of these are food items. Others are borrowed from natural fabric dyeing. However, just because something is natural and has a color does not mean that it will 1) bind permanently to the hair strand, and/or 2) be safe to use on the hair.
Many plants which will dye fabric require simmering and/or being set with a mordant. Because one should not do either with the hair, it will not work the same way. Most foods are, well, best used as foods. Eat them, and you get nutrients and a happy tummy. Put them on your head, and you get a lot of food rinsed down the drain for very little effect.
There are very, very few dyes that are capable of binding to the hair in a permanent manner. Out of these, there are fewer which are safe (Hint: if it is effective and safe, we probably sell it at Mehandi.com). At a molecular level, a dye needs a small enough molecule or a chemical reaction to break past the keratin layers on the surface of the hair strand, and then oxidize into a larger molecule that cannot easily escape back out of the hair, binding it there permanently. This is what oxidative (store-bought) dyes do.
Dyes like henna and cassia bind to the hair via a Michael addition, facilitated by the low pH environment of the paste. Despite having beautiful, vivid colors, most plants cannot dye the hair because the molecule is too large. Without simmering for long periods of time or the use of a mordant to chemically bind the dye, the color simply sits atop the hair and will wash right out.
Below is a list, in alphabetical order, of the many things people attempt to use, either mixed into a henna treatment or on its own. Each item will be examined for the following questions: 1) Does it affect hair color? 2) Is the color change permanent? 3) Is it safe? Additionally, most will include explanations for how the ingredient came to exist in hair recipes if it is not safe or effective.
Amla
Amla does not contain a dye. When used to dye-release henna, it affects the resulting color of the henna by muting brighter tones. It assists a successful indigo bind by temporarily loosening the hydrogen bonds in the hair, allowing more dye to enter. Real amla is safe. If an amla product claims to change the color of the hair, it may contain other ingredients, and may not be safe.
Beets
Beets will stain your hands, change the color of your urine, and can dye fabric when simmered and used with a mordant. Because you do not want to simmer and use mordants on your hair, you cannot achieve a permanent stain using beets. It is safe but will do nothing for your hair.
Black Tea
Many natural hair blogs claim that strong black tea will darken your hair. If it does, the result will be very subtle, and very temporary. Some people use black tea as their acidic liquid for henna, but it is generally not quite acidic enough for a good dye release. A strong brew of black tea may cause caffeine jitters when absorbed through the scalp. Relatively safe; not effective for hair coloring.
Blueberry
On its own, blueberries or blueberry juice will not create a noticeable change in your hair color. Added to henna as a dye-releasing liquid, the anthocyanins in blueberry juice will add a subtle ash tone to the color to cool it. This effect may fade over time. It is safe, but subtle and not permanent. Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder is made from powdered purple aronia fruit, which is like a hardcore version of the blueberry.
Buxus (Katam)
Buxus is mixed with henna in the same way that indigo is, to create soft brunette tones. It is safe. Here’s the problem: Buxus was produced in Yemen, which is under civil conflict. There are few if any producers of buxus left, and Yemen is not exporting goods to the US at this time. If you find anyone claiming to sell buxus, it is most likely a mixture of henna and indigo or some other type of counterfeit.
Calendula
Calendula is a bright yellow flower. It is used as a natural fabric and food dye. It is sometimes used to give a golden tone to cheese and butter. Calendula will show up in an internet search for natural ways to dye your hair. Like so many other items on this list, calendula’s dye will not break into and bind to the keratin cuticle of your hair without the use of heat and mordants.
Carrot
Carrot juice is delicious. Carrots are a good way to make friends with rabbits or horses. Despite their bright orange color, soaking your hair in carrot juice will not do much. Safe, but better eaten. Any color result that may occur will wash out.
Cassia
Hooray! The first effective contestant on the list. Cassia Auriculata will dye light hair a golden wheat color. It provides similar benefits as henna. Not quite as strong or permanent as henna, cassia may need to be applied more often, or mixed with a small amount of henna for a more effective bind. Cassia is great for diluting henna or henna/indigo mixes to great vibrant fiery reds, or lighter browns. On dark hair, cassia will not cause a color change but is great for conditioning. Cassia is very safe.
Chamomile
Chamomile shows up in natural beauty sites very often because it is supposed to naturally lighten hair. The instructions usually involve soaking hair in chamomile tea or spritzing the hair with tea in a spray bottle. Like lemon, some use it in their hair prior to going out into the sun. Chamomile seems to deliver very subtle, very slow results that appear if one’s hair is already blonde or light brown. If your hair is dark, no luck. If your hair is dyed with henna, chamomile will not remove the henna. With hair that is already light brown or blonde, it would take weeks of daily hair-soaking and dozens of tea bags to achieve a noticeable difference if any at all. Chamomile is not a strong enough acid to use for dye-releasing henna. It is safe, but drinking chamomile tea may make you sleepy.
Cherry
Many people long to have hair the same color as black cherries. That deep, purple-red is gorgeous, and sadly, only achievable with chemical dyes. Cherry juice might be a good contestant for dye-release liquid, but because of its antioxidant and anthocyanin content, not because of its color. Cherries are safe, as long as you are not allergic, and remember to spit out the pits.
Cinnamon
Cinnamon is another common ingredient in natural beauty recipes for lightening hair. It smells wonderful, but cinnamon is irritating to the skin. I once tried the cinnamon-and-honey hair mask out of curiosity, and it felt like I rubbed tiger balm all over my scalp. Like lemon, honey, and chamomile, if there is any effect at all, it would show up on hair that is already light, require several treatments, and be very subtle. Not entirely safe, and not very effective. Will do nothing to the color result of a henna mix. If you want to make your henna mix smell nice, try ginger or cardamom powder instead.
Coffee
This is one of the most common items people ask about. Some henna sites still recommend mixing henna with strongly brewed black coffee. Coffee seems to temporarily darken the hair, but caffeine is transdermal and will cause jitters and headaches if you leave it on your scalp for several hours. You will also have to put up with the smell. Imagine breathing through a used coffee filter for three hours. A coffee “rinse” would do nothing. Do not put coffee in your mix. If you want to darken your henna, add a little indigo.
Dandelion
Bright yellow flower. Fun for making wishes. Used in salads. See Calendula above.
Henna
Pure, BAQ henna is safe, effective, and permanent. But if you are reading this blog, you might know that by now. Feel free to read the other articles to learn all about how to use it. Henna allergies are extremely rare. Henna’s dye molecule binds to keratin and will not fade. Because henna is not well regulated, all henna is not equal. Make sure you know the difference between true henna and compound henna, which is unsafe and contains a number of additives.
Honey
Honey produces small amounts of peroxide, which can bring out some highlights to hair that is already light. The effect is minimal. It will not do anything to dark hair. Do not add it to a henna mix; it will inhibit dye uptake. It is safe unless you are an infant, or allergic to honey. Honey is great with some peanut butter on toast. It is also nice in tea. In your hair, it is a sticky mess that won’t do much.
Indigo
Used in conjunction with henna, indigo creates permanent shades of brunette. On its own, it may dye lighter hair a gray-blue color, which may fade. Henna helps indigo bind permanently. It is safe. Some with mold allergies notice a reaction to indigo. Patch test beforehand if concerned, and avoid inhaling powder particles. Read more about indigo here.
Jagua
Jagua is derived from the fruit, Genipa americana which grows in South America. Its juice has been used in body art to create deep blue stains on the skin. Jagua is extremely expensive. The amount of jagua juice needed to mix with 100g of henna powder would be over a hundred dollars. Not worth it. Jagua is also known to cause allergies in those who are allergic to certain fruits. Some distributors may sell products containing PPD claiming it is pure jagua. Verdict: Not for hair, expensive, and proceed with caution.
Kool-Aid
Dyeing hair with powdered drink mixes is popular among young people because it is cheap, temporary, and can result in unnatural colors. The high concentration of food dyes can cause a temporary stain on lighter hair. It is relatively safe, but not permanent, and not necessarily “natural.” It will probably stain your clothes and pillowcase as it fades off. Adding it to henna would probably not do anything, as the lawsone would greatly overpower any food dye.
Lemon
Lemon juice has been used to add highlights to blond hair. It works similarly to peroxide. You will not see much change in darker hair. It will not lighten hair that has been dyed with henna. When used as an acid in a henna mix, the low pH will actually cause the resulting stain to oxidize greatly over time, causing a darker color. Those who are sensitive to citrus may notice an itchy, bumpy, or red scalp when using henna mixed with lemon juice. It can also cause UV sensitivity. When used with henna, it is smart to dilute lemon juice with 3-4 parts distilled water.
Hibiscus
This is another plant that is popular in natural beauty blogs. Hibiscus is a beautiful red flower with a sweet, tart flavor. The flowers are dried and sold whole and in powder form. According to those who recommend using it, hibiscus supposedly brings red hues to the hair. If effective, the result would be very temporary. Hibiscus is high in anthocyanins, so if there is any effect of it being mixed with henna, it would act more like Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder, or blueberry juice, cooling the henna color rather than adding red tones. Hibiscus makes for a delicious cold summer drink. Save it for that, instead.
Iron (rust)
Some cultures have mixed henna in iron containers, and this recommendation has come through to blogs and natural sites today. Some sites recommend adding a few rusty nails (or any rusty iron item) into the henna if you do not have an iron pot. A low-pH liquid would react with the iron to create iron oxide, which may impart a dark color to the hair temporarily. You do not want minerals in your hair. Not only does mineral buildup inhibit dye uptake, but can cause the hair to become stiff and dry. This is why we recommend clarifying the hair before applying henna and using distilled water.
Note: This is not to say that henna and metal should never mix. Henna can be mixed in stainless steel bowls, or with any run-of-the-mill spoon just fine.
Nettle
Nettle has been recommended on some natural beauty sites claiming it will darken hair and stimulate growth. It can dye fabrics but requires simmering and mordants to do so. There will be little to no effect on hair. There are no studies that show significant effects on hair growth. While nettle can be eaten, or used for tea, harvesting nettle from the great outdoors can result in some nasty stings.
Onion
This is another one pulled from fabric dyeing. Onion skins can dye fabrics a lovely yellow color. It will not work on hair. Some claim that rinsing hair in water that has been boiled with onion or onion skin will promote hair growth. This claim has not been proven. Do yourself and others a favor, and do not put onions in your henna, or in your hair at all. You will end up smelling like onions for no reason.
Pomegranate
Pomegranates have an absolutely beautiful color, and anyone who has opened one will know that the juice can stain your skin, clothes, and cutting board. It will not stay in your hair. There’s nothing wrong with using it as your dye-release liquid, other than expense. It is high in anthocyanins, so it would most likely work similarly to blueberry juice.
Raspberry
See: Blueberry, Cherry, and Pomegranate. Safe, and decent for a dye-release liquid; will not dye hair.
Red Cabbage
You may have done the experiment in science class where you use cabbage juice as a pH indicator. If not, it’s pretty cool. The purple liquid turns shades of pink when mixed with an acid, and blue to green when mixed with a base. Fabric dyers can use this to their advantage to create a variety of shades. I feel like a broken record by now but guess what. Works with simmering and a mordant; won’t work on hair.
Rhubarb
Rhubarb supposedly adds a golden tone to light hair. It is recommended on natural beauty sites and is sometimes included in “herbal” or “natural” hair dye mixes. Despite its pretty, red stalks, rhubarb will not add red tones to the hair. It contains chrysophanic acid, the same molecule responsible for cassia’s golden results. However, rhubarb root creates a very vivid, unnatural yellow that isn’t generally desired as a hair color. In addition, the dye does not bind well and fades over time. Better saved for fabric dyeing and pies.
Rosemary
Rosemary oil has long been recommended and used for hair growth and darkening hair. After scouring research databases, I found one clinical study which showed the effectiveness of rosemary oil against androgenetic alopecia, and none on hair darkening. Because only the abstract was available I could not make a determination on the soundness of the study. The claimed hair-growth effect is due to rosemary’s rubefacient quality. Rubefacients are by their nature, irritants. They stimulate circulation (redness) in the skin by dilating blood vessels. Do not put essential oils in henna. They dull the resulting color and can cause headaches.
Saffron
Holy expense. Not only will it fail to alter your hair color, but a gram of real saffron can cost up to $25. It is the most expensive spice in the world, and counterfeit/adulterated saffron is common. Saffron rice is delicious. If you get your hands on some real saffron, make rice. Safe, expensive, and pointless for hair.
Sage
Similar claims as Rosemary. Just like Rosemary, there is no definitive proof of sage’s ability to dye hair. Pretty safe. Good for clearing your home of ghouls and ghosties, or bad smells. Not effective for coloring hair.
Para-phenylenediamine (PPD)
NOT SAFE. Para-phenylenediamine is the active ingredient in most commercial hair dyes and is highly sensitizing. Yes, it effectively colors hair. It is also known to cause serious allergic reactions. Sensitivity to PPD is increasing due to the popularity of “black henna” tattoos, which use a concentrated form of dye. As a coal tar derivative, it is not natural. Read more about it here, here, here, and here.
Most commercial hair dyes contain PPD. Even products labeled “natural” or claiming to be henna can have PPD.
Tomato
If you’ve ever spilled pasta sauce or ketchup on your clothes, you were probably quite happy to find that the stain did not stay permanently. Soaking your hair in tomato juice is not an effective way to dye your hair, and like many other items on this list, any color result obtained will wash out. Tomatoes are acidic, so I can’t think of anything wrong with using tomato juice as a dye-release liquid, other than the fact that it would smell very strange. Better idea: enjoy a Bloody Mary while the henna is in your hair.
Turmeric
Turmeric gives curry dishes their bright yellow color. It is used in fabric dyeing. When mixed with an alkaline solution, turmeric’s ochre yellow color turns vivid red. When turmeric paste is rubbed onto the skin, it will leave a yellow stain. Turmeric may temporarily stain light hair yellow but will wash out quickly. Be prepared to turn your tub and towels yellow. Safe; beautiful color; will not dye hair.
Turmeric was used to stain the skin yellow in this body art piece. It will fade away after a good scrub.
Walnut
Black walnut powder has been sold on its own and in pre-mixed henna powders. It leads to darker results. Black walnut will dye hair but has a high risk of allergic reaction. Indigo will work just as well, if not better. Somewhat effective, but not as safe.
Woad
Mehandi.com no longer carries indigo for body art due to it being hard to resource.
Woad is one of the most ancient dyes, used to dye fabrics “Celtic blue.” It is speculated that the Celts also used it on their skin, as seen in the movie Braveheart. The process is extremely smelly, like rotten cabbages. The dye molecule, indigo, in woad is the same as it is in the indigo (indigofera tinctoria) plant. Just use indigo plant powder. It is easier to get your hands on and doesn’t have the stink. If you want to paint yourself blue.
Ancient Blue® is an indigo product that mimics the use of woad on the skin, without the cabbage stink.
Final Notes
All in all, it is best to keep a henna mix to its bare essentials and to keep food for eating purposes. Many foods do have nutrients that are beneficial for hair and skin, but in order to take advantage of them, you need to process them through your digestive system. Additionally, if you don’t already have these items laying around, going out and finding them only complicates and adds expense to your henna method, for no real pay-off.
Please don’t hesitate to contact Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service if you have any additional questions. If there is an item you’d like to see added to this list, please comment below.
Author: Rebecca Chou 2/23/18 Edited: Maria Moore 11/16/22
Henna provides some great conditioning benefits, but these benefits go hand-in-hand with color change. The lawsone molecule binds permanently to the keratin in your hair, providing strength and shine while dyeing the hair. That’s great for those who wish to dye and condition their hair simultaneously. But what if you’ve already achieved your desired color, and want to regularly condition without seeing the color darken? Continued application of henna can cause the hair to become a darker and darker color. Or, what if you have light or gray hair which you wish to keep the way it is?
Ancient Sunrise® Cassia provides similar conditioning benefits as henna with little to minimal color change on darker hair colors. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi cleanses and conditions the hair with no color change at all. Repeated applications of henna can also cause curl pattern loosening for some. Some find that using Ancient Sunrise® Amla alone in the hair helps to bring back volume, while others find that cassia helps to restore their curls. This article will explain how to use Cassia, Zizyphus, and Amla powders as hair treatments that provide conditioning without color change.
The Plant Powders
Cassia Auriculata, Cassia Obovata, Zizyphus Spina Christi, and Amla (emblica officinalis) powders all work in different ways. Cassia works most similarly to henna. Its dye molecule, chrysophanol, binds to the hair much like henna’s lawsone molecule does. Cassia makes the hair shiny and strong, and for some, can restore the hair’s natural curl pattern. Cassia’s conditioning effects can last up to a month or longer. Zizyphus acts as a two-in-one cleanser/conditioner that adds a thin plant wax coating to the hair, protecting it from environmental effects, and giving the hair shine and strength. Zizyphus can be used weekly. Amla is not a conditioner as much as a hair treatment most useful for those who wish to give their hair extra body and bounce. Each of these powders has a unique process. Continue reading to learn the best ways to use them.
Cassia Obovata and Cassia Auriculata Powder
For Benefits Similar to Henna, and for Curls
Ancient Sunrise® Cassia is great if you love the way that henna makes your hair strong and shiny, but want to avoid repeating full-head henna treatments which may darken your color. Cassia can be used in one of two ways:
For a quick conditioning treatment, mix Ancient Sunrise® Cassia powder with distilled water and apply immediately. Cover and leave it on the hair as long as desired (one hour is good). This is a good method for those who have light or gray hair and do not want a noticeable color change. This method will condition hair with little to no color change, but will not yield effects that are as strong or permanent as the method below.
For a more effective, and longer-lasting conditioning treatment, mix cassia with a mildly acidic liquid or an Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powder and distilled water, and allow it to dye-release at room temperature for 8-12 hours just as you would with henna. Apply, cover, and leave in the hair for one hour to several hours. Those with darker hair will not see any color change. Lighter or gray hair will be dyed a golden tone.
Ancient Sunrise® cassia, like Ancient Sunrise® henna, can be applied to either damp or dry hair. Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia has a fine sift and is great for those with thin, delicate, and damaged hair.
Important: Cassia’s dye molecule reacts poorly with minerals. The golden tone can become muddy and brown if you have mineral build-up in your hair. It is best to do a Rainwash treatment ahead of time for the best results.
Cassia can be used as a conditioner once a month, or more frequently if desired. Its effects are not as permanent as henna; it is fine to apply a new treatment whenever you feel your hair needs it.
For Clean, Shiny Hair Protected Against the Elements
Zizyphus Spina Christi does not contain a dye molecule. Its natural saponins and plant wax clean the hair and protect it with a thin, flexible layer. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus is perfect for those who want absolutely no color change. Use zizyphus before and/or during a trip to the beach or the great outdoors. It protects the hair from salt water, wind, and dirt. Some notice that they can wash their hair less frequently when using zizyphus (Note: Please wash your hair once it feels greasy, or smells bad.) It is quicker and easier to use than cassia, but its effects are washed away after a number of shampoos.
To use Zizyphus Spina Christi powder, mix a heaping tablespoon of powder with distilled water until it becomes a fluffy paste. Bring this paste to the shower with you, and set it nearby, but away from the direct stream of water. Wet your hair, and apply the paste from scalp to ends, massaging your scalp. You may need to work in sections. Leave the paste in your hair for several minutes, then rinse. If you are having trouble rinsing the paste completely, use a small amount of conditioner or a vinegar rinse to give your hair more slip. Dry and style as usual. You can use zizyphus once or twice a week. More often may cause a build-up of the coating, causing your hair to feel stiff or waxy.
As zizyphus creates a hydrophobic barrier over the hair, make sure to wash your hair with a normal detergent shampoo prior to applying a plant powder dye to ensure effective dye uptake.
Important: If you are sensitive to latex, conduct a patch test before using zizyphus. Those with latex allergies often experience a cross-reaction when using zizyphus.
As noted earlier, amla is not necessarily a conditioner in the same sense as cassia and zizyphus are. It is acidic, and therefore may be drying for some. When used in a plant dye mix, amla can prevent the curl loss that sometimes occurs with henna. On its own, amla can give the hair more volume and bounce. It does this by temporarily loosening the hydrogen bonds in keratin, allowing the hair to be reshaped.
Mix Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder with distilled water into a thin paste. It does not have to be as thick as henna. Apply from roots to ends, cover, and leave in for 10 minutes. Rinse, and set towel-dry hair in a braid, curlers, or another heatless curl method. When the hair is dry, it will be fuller and fluffier.
Ancient Sunrise® Amla can be used as an acid to dye-release cassia. Mix 25g amla for every 100g cassia, and add distilled water. Follow the instructions above for applying and processing cassia.
Read more about various uses for Ancient Sunrise® Amla Powder here.
Final Notes
Repeated applications of any of these methods will show more improvement in hair quality over time. Conditioning protects the hair against damage, and balances moisture retention, allowing the hair to stay stronger longer. For best results, use Cassia monthly (or more often if desired), Zizyphus weekly, and Amla whenever you wish to add some temporary oomph to your hair. These methods can all be used on hair that has been treated with plant dyes, as well as hair that has not.
If you have any additional questions about using these products to add strength, shine, and body to your hair, feel free to contact a Customer Service Representative via phone, email, or online chat.
Author: Rebecca Chou Updated by Maria Moore 11/16/22
Human hair is a complex thing. Each strand consists of several layers which contribute to the structure, shape, and color of the hair. The outer layers are made of several tiny keratin scales (cuticles), which overlap like shingles. The core (cortex) of the hair strand consists of bundles of long, thin cells that contain melanin, the hair’s natural pigments. The hair also contains lipids, or fats, which balance moisture. Additional lipids are deposited onto the surface of the hair via the scalp’s sebaceous glands.
Healthy hair does pretty well at maintaining its own moisture levels. The sebum and keratin on the surface of the hair provide a hydrophobic barrier to prevent excess water from entering the cortex. It may sound counter-intuitive, but too much water is not good for the hair. If water enters the center of the hair strand, the cortex swells and the overall structure of the hair weakens. This is why hair becomes more stretchy when wet. Healthy hair will stretch to an extent, and bounce back. Hair that has been damaged will remain stretched, and break if stretched too far.
On the other hand, if the cortex is completely depleted of moisture, the hair becomes brittle, and breaks. Think of the cortex like a bundle of al-dente pasta. If it soaks up too much water, it becomes mushy and unstable. If it is desiccated, it becomes brittle and snaps.
Hair is made of a bundles of cortical cells containing melanin, surrounded by keratin scales.
Maintaining healthy hair requires keeping the keratin layers as intact as possible. When new hair growth exits the scalp, it has several layers of keratin cuticles which are tight and flat. Normal weathering causes the cuticles to lift, then chip away. If most or all of the layers erode, the cortex is exposed, and it unravels like the end of a rope. This is what causes split ends, also known as trichoschisis. There is no way to “fix” split ends, except to trim them away with professional shears (regular scissors can cause split ends). You cannot glue the cortex back together and put a new coating of keratin over it. Maintaining healthy hair is all about being proactive, not reactive. There is nothing that can reverse damage once it has occurred.
When keratin cuticles are entirely weathered away, the cortical cells are exposed and eventually split.
The biggest outside threats to hair health are friction and pulling (especially when the hair is wet), heat, UV exposure, and chemical processes. Friction causes the cuticles to lift, making the surface of each strand rougher. Strands then catch on each other, causing tangles. Lifted cuticles are like open doors for water to pass in and out. This is why damaged hair is stretchy and mushy when wet, and brittle when dry.
Heat drys out the hair and causes air pockets within the hair strands to expand. UV radiation breaks down melanin cells and melts the hair’s cortex, making it porous and brittle. Lightening agents, oxidative dyes, perms, and relaxer all use chemicals to break through the keratin layer to permanently alter the cortex to deposit dye, destroy melanin cells, or force the hair into a new shape. This creates weakness in both the internal and external structure of the hair.
While some weathering is normal and expected, there are many ways to reduce the amount of day-to-day damage. Here are a few ways to keep your hair happy and silky.
1. Squeeze and Wrap; Don’t Rub.
After showering or bathing, you might be tempted to grab a towel and rub it all over your head, or rub your hair between your towel like you are trying to start a fire with a stick. Don’t do it. Your hair is extra fragile when wet, and this amount of friction will add up in the long term. Repeated towel drying contributes to the weathering of the keratin scales that form the protective outer layers of the hair. Over time, this will lead to split ends [1].
Instead, gently press or squeeze your hair with the towel. Wrap your hair with the towel and allow it to gradually absorb the water out of your hair. Or gently shake the ends of your hair to flick away water droplets.
2. Don’t Brush Wet Hair Without the Right Tools.
This is similar to towel-drying the hair. Brushing, towel drying, and any form of friction on wet hair causes keratin cuticles to shed. Wet hair has reduced tensile strength, meaning it is more prone to stretching and snapping than dry hair. A study found that using a conditioning shampoo, in comparison to non-conditioning shampoos, reduced the amount of cuticle loss during wet hair combing [2]. This would make sense, as shampoos cleanse away the natural lipid layer of the hair, and lift the cuticle, increasing friction.
If you must comb your hair while it is wet, make sure the hair is conditioned, and use a wide-toothed comb, or a brush specially made for use on wet hair. Using a brush or comb made to be used on wet hair can be incredibly helpful. The tines and bristles are designed to prevent pulling and tugging, thus causing less friction. Work from the ends of your hair to your roots. Do not pull on a tangle. This will cause your hair to snap. Work out the knot from the bottom up.
Hair and drum skins are both made of keratin. Kitty’s drum got wet and it wouldn’t play anymore. So kitty tightened it. But when the skin dried, it tore. Oops! Poor kitty. Shouldn’t have stretched a wet drum.
3. Keep Your Hair Up
Loosely braiding your hair or keeping it in a twist protects it from friction and tangles during the day. This is especially helpful if you have long hair and it’s a windy day. Just be sure not to wrap hair ties too tightly, or force pins into a tight bun. This can cause stress on the hair. Pulling the hair too tightly into ponytails, braids, or twists can cause hair to pull out at the root. Over the course of time, this can lead to traction alopecia.
(Writer’s note: Back when I had long hair, I was a big fan of the octopus clip. It securely holds the hair up in a bun without pinching, or being too tight. Spellstone combs and barrettes are also wonderful, and styles are available for every hair type.)
Spellstone hair ornaments are made with ethically harvested water buffalo horn or bone.
4. Avoid UV exposure
Hair is susceptible to UV damage. When hair becomes lighter in the summer, the melanin cells within the cortex are actually being destroyed by UV rays. There are two basic types of melanin n the hair. There are what provide the hair’s natural pigment. Pheomelanin is much more sensitive to UV radiation than eumelanin. Blonde, and red hair contains less eumelanin and more pheomelanin. When pheomelanin becomes degraded, UV exposure will eventually melt the hair’s core, causing the hair to become weak and brittle [3], [4].
The natural oils, or integral lipids, that exist within the hair fiber are also affected by UV radiation. Overexposure decreases these lipids, which exist to moisturize the hair and contribute to its flexibility. Over time, this leads to increased porosity, desiccation, and brittleness.
Covering the hair, and/or using henna protects against sun damage. More on henna in # 8.
5. Protect Your Hair While You Sleep
If you toss and turn in your sleep, cotton and synthetic fabrics can cause your hair to tangle. If you prefer to shower at night, you’ll probably wake up and fight your bedhead with brushes and products, damaging it further in the process. Wrapping your hair in a silk scarf or using a silk pillowcase can decrease bedhead and damage.
Silk is very breathable and decreases friction. If you sweat during your sleep, silk is cooler and allows moisture to evaporate more quickly, keeping your hair drier. Just make sure you’re looking for actual silk, not a polyester satin, which can cause static and tangling.
6. Know How Often to Wash Your Hair
Each person produces a different amount of sebum. These oils protect and moisturize the skin and hair. However, too much sebum will become waxy, drawing dirt and dead skin cells, and clogging pores. Some people have naturally oily skin, and need to wash their hair every day. Others do so less frequently. If you have dry skin, or produce little sebum at the scalp, washing your hair too frequently, or washing with harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate might strip out the lipids from your hair and lift the cuticles. Shampooing dries the hair shaft and increases static and friction. Conditioning is meant to artificially restore lost lipids and smooth the cuticle layer.
If you have long hair, be aware that sebum gradually spreads from the scalp to the ends; the ends are drier than the roots. Oftentimes, it is only necessary to shampoo the scalp. The product that runs down the length of your hair while rinsing is enough to cleanse it without without completely stripping the lipids. Use conditioner in the opposite way. Apply only to the ends of the hair to avoid heaviness and buildup at the roots. It is better wash hair with cool water. Hot water can raise the cuticles, causing roughness and dryness. Cool water keeps the cuticle closed.
Hair has both surface lipids and integral lipids. In other words, there are oils that coat the hair strand, and oils that exist within the hair strand. Both contribute to the moisture and protection of the hair. Integral lipids can vary with a person’s ethnicity. While Asians have higher integral lipid levels, people of Caucasian and African descent have lower amounts of integral lipids. Over-shampooing can strip out integral lipids and lead to desiccation and breakage. UV exposure and chemical processes can also destroy integral lipids.
The consensus is in. The vast majority of dermatologists and hair experts agree that dry shampoo causes your hair more harm than good. The ingredients in dry shampoo absorb oil, giving the hair volume and making it look less greasy, but all of this just stays in the hair. The buildup of sebum and dry shampoo can eventually clog pores, causing infections. It can also lead to hair loss, as infected follicles cause the hair to shed. Dermatologists recommend using dry shampoo no more than twice a week.
7. Put Down the Dry Shampoo and Back Away
Microorganisms love munching away at sebum buildup, dead skin cells, and dirt. Dry shampoo creates a great environment for them.
8. Moisturizing Products May Be Making Things Worse
Hair products use a variety of emollients and humectants to make the hair seem smoother and more moisturized. Not all of them work in the same way. Glycerin, or glycol, products draw moisture from the surrounding environment. This is find when there is humidity in the air. In dry environments, the product will actually draw moisture out of the hair.
Some ingredients form a barrier, preventing water from entering or exiting. Because damaged hair is particularly weak when wet, it needs to be able to get rid of the excess water in the cortex. Products that coat the hair in this way keeps the hair in a weaker state.
Silicone ingredients, like dimethicone, mask hair damage by filling and smoothing the surface of the hair with a slippery coating. Decreasing friction prevents future damage, but -cones inhibit the passage of moisture in and out of the hair. If it builds up, it acts similarly to sebum, drawing dirt and dead skin cells.
Dimethicone and similar ingredients coat the hair with a low-friction layer, but do not mend damage.
Overuse of conditioners or oils can lead to a vicious cycle of worsening hair condition. The product coats the hair and prevents moisture from entering, causing the hair to dry. People then try to correct or compensate for the dryness by using more and more conditioning treatments.
Hair needs to be able to retain the proper amount of water and lipids. Too much moisture leaves the hair weak and weighed down. Too little, and the hair becomes brittle. Henna, cassia, and zizyphus can help the hair maintain its moisture levels more effectively. Continue reading to learn how.
9. Limit Chemical Processes
Lightening agents, oxidative dyes, perms, and relaxers all involve chemically altering the structure of the hair. These processes destroy both the outer cuticles and the inner cortex of the hair strand in order to change the hair’s color or shape. This increases the hair’s porosity and decreases its strength and elasticity, leaving it vulnerable to breakage. A study by Robinson found that, while virgin hair exhibited progressive weathering root to tip, only hair that had been chemically processed showed patterns of fiber splitting at the mid-sections of the hair strand [1]. Cuticles were eroded until the cortical fibers were exposed, which then began to fragment. This type of damage leads to hair breaking off at any point in the length, not only the ends.
Bleaching the hair destroys the structural disulfide bonds in the keratin cuticle, and oxidizes the melanin within the cortex of the hair. Oxidative hair dyes also work by breaking these bonds so that dye molecules can enter the cortex, where they oxidize into larger molecules that cannot escape back out from the keratin layers. Hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen persulfate are used to break the keratin bonds to allow the bleach or dye to enter the cortex [4].
Perms and relaxers denature the disulfide bonds in order to alter the hair’s shape, using extremely alkaline chemicals such as ammonium thioglycollate, sodium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide [3], [4]. These processes all break down the hair’s hydrophobic barrier and increase softening and swelling of the hair fiber. The hair is then especially vulnerable to breakage from brushing and other sources of friction.
All of the tips discussed above can prevent further damage, but nothing can reverse hair damage. It is best to avoid chemical processes altogether; however, if you choose to do so, it is best to go to a certified stylist rather than attempting it at home. Stylists know how the correct products and techniques to use to avoid unnecessary damage. Products used in salons are often safer and gentler for the hair because they are regulated more strictly than products sold for at-home use.
10. Limit Heat Styling
Curlers and flat irons apply high heat directly to the hair in order to temporarily alter its shape. Because hair is naturally porous to some degree, there are tiny pockets within every hair strand. Damaged hair is more porous. Heat can cause the moisture within the pockets to expand, forming bubbles in the hair strand [4]. Long and frequent use of hair dryers can cause the “bubble hair” effect, as well.
Heat creates a low humidity environment which causes moisture to evaporate rapidly. This leads to desiccation, static, and structural damage [5], [6]. Interestingly enough, hair shows increased structural damage from heat if the it was initially wet, rather than dry; however, heat applied to dry hair causes signs of chemical damage as well as structural damage. One study suggests that using ethanol, or solvent-based protecting sprays prior to heat treatments is more effective than water-based sprays [5]. Better yet, skip the heat altogether.
Replace curling irons with no-heat curling methods. Allow hair to air dry most of the way, and finish it off with a hair dryer on a low setting. People with particularly damaged or porous hair have a dilemma. While drying the hair with a blow-dryer can be damaging, leaving the hair wet for long periods of time may also lead to damage [6]. It will be up to the individual to monitor their hair’s health and moderate their techniques. Gentle towel drying and a hair dryer on the cool setting may be the best option.
Heat caused bubbles to form in the hair shaft. Source: Monselise, Assaf, David E. Cohen, Rita Wanser, and Jerry Shapiro. “What ages hair?.” International journal of women’s dermatology 3, no. 1 Suppl (2017): S52.
11. Condition with Ancient Sunrise® Henna or Cassia
The dye molecules in henna and cassia bind to keratin on the surface layers of the hair without coating it. This adds to the structural integrity of the hair strand. Porous, damaged hair becomes smoother and better at retaining proper moisture levels. Hair that stretches too much becomes more resilient. Henna and cassia provide long-lasting shine that doesn’t wash out, unlike conditioners.
Henna is permanent, and dyes hair red. When used with indigo, it dyes hair shades of brunette to black. Cassia provides a translucent golden dye on light hair, and no color change on darker hair. Cassia can be used without dye release to condition hair with minimal color change.
Henna also provides natural UV protection. It does this by reflecting and absorbing at the surface of the hair before it can penetrate to the cortex. This inhibits the degradation of melanin cells.
12. Cleanse and Condition with Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus
Zizyphus spina christi makes for a wonderful 2-in-1 cleansing and conditioning treatment. Unlike henna and cassia, it has no dye. Zizyphus powder contains natural saponins and plant waxes. It gently cleans the hair without stripping it, and a thin layer of plant wax restores the hair’s hydrophobic barrier while providing shine. It is especially great for thin, weak, and damaged hair because it provides thickness and strength, and protects hair from excess water absorption. Zizyphus is great to use before traveling, as it protects the hair from wind and salt water. To learn more about how to use zizyphus, read this article and visit this page on Henna for Hair.
References
[1] Robinson, V. N. E. “A study of damaged hair.” J Soc Cosmet Chem 27 (1976): 155-161.
[2] Sandhu, Sukhvinder S., and Ram Ramachandran. “A simple and sensitive method using protein loss measurements to evaluate damage to human hair.” J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem 46 (1995): 39-52.
[3] Sinclair, Rodney D. “Healthy hair: what is it?.” In Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings, vol. 12, no. 2, pp. 2-5. Elsevier, 2007.
[4] Monselise, Assaf, David E. Cohen, Rita Wanser, and Jerry Shapiro. “What ages hair?.” International journal of women’s dermatology 3, no. 1 Suppl (2017): S52.
[5] Christian, Paul, Nigel Winsey, Marie Whatmough, and Paul A. Cornwell. “The effects of water on heat-styling damage.” Journal of cosmetic science 62, no. 1 (2011): 15.
[6] Lee, Yoonhee, Youn-Duk Kim, Hye-Jin Hyun, Long-quan Pi, Xinghai Jin, and Won-Soo Lee. “Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer.” Annals of dermatology 23, no. 4 (2011): 455-462.
Author: Rebecca Chou November 2017 Edited: Maria Moore September 2022
When using a mix of plant dye powders and fruit acids, it can become tricky to determine how much to use, and how to measure it all out. Using Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair is already more cost-effective than conventional boxed dyes or visits to the salon, but it’s always nice to cut down on waste. While henna and cassia pastes can be frozen for later use, mixes containing indigo cannot. Therefore, it is useful to mix just enough paste, and keep the rest of the powders sealed and dry.
This article will help you determine how much plant powder you’ll need to mix, how to measure powders with teaspoons and tablespoons, and how to determine the right amount of fruit acid powder to dye-release your henna and/or cassia.
If you are new to using henna for hair, be sure to read the Henna 101 series on this blog.
How much plant dye powder do I need for my hair?
Before mixing, you first need to determine how much total plant dye powder you’ll need in order to create enough paste to dye your hair. This depends on the length and thickness of your hair. Knowing how much powder to use in your mix will become easier after you have used henna for a while.
If you are just starting, if have recently cut your hair, or if you are returning to henna after a long period of hair growth, it is always better to mix more rather than less. Below is a chart that can help you estimate how much you might need. Because each head of hair is unique, this is not exact, and meant to be used as a general guideline. If you end up with henna/cassia paste left over, stick it in the freezer for future touch-ups. Indigo dye will not work once it has been frozen. If there is indigo in your mix, make note of how much was left over, dump the paste, and adjust your measurements next time.
Thin, straight hair
Average hair
Thick or curly hair
1-2” roots
30-50g
50-75g
100g or more
Chin length
75-100g
100-150g
200g or more
Shoulder length
100-150g
200-250g
300g or more
2-3” below shoulder
200-250g
250-300g
400g or more
Mid back
250-300g
350-400g
500g or more
Waist length
400-500g
500-600g
600g or more
Keep in mind that the thickness of the paste will affect how much hair will be covered. You will want to mix your paste to the consistency of whipped sour cream, so that it drops off in a dollop if you hold a spoonful upside-down. If you mix a thicker paste, you will need more powder.
The above chart is also based on a thorough, thick application of paste. Some people choose to apply more sparingly. Keep in mind that doing so will require less paste, but may affect color and coverage.
A whole lot of hair needs a whole lot of paste. This is about 500g of henna for waist-length hair.
How do I measure plant dye powders without a scale?
Henna, cassia, and/or indigo mixes are based on ratios of their gram measurements. All of the plant powders come in 100g packets. If you do not need the entire packet, you can measure out your necessary amount, and seal up the rest of the powder for later use. If you have a kitchen scale, measuring the amount you need is pretty easy. Just determine how much powder in grams you’ll need for your particular mix, and divide. If you do not have a scale, you can convert grams into teaspoons, tablespoons, and cups.
This conversion is different for each powder, because the weight and density of the powders vary. Just as a cup of feathers and a cup of marbles would have different weights, so do henna, cassia, and indigo. Below is a chart with the most common gram amounts and their volume conversions. This is based on US measurements.
Key tsp = teaspoon T = tablespoon 3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon 2 tablespoons = 1/8 cup 16 tablespoons = 1 cup
10g
12.5g
25g
50g
100g
Henna
1.5 T; or 1T +1 ½ tsp
Just under 2T
Just under ¼ cup
7T;
3/4cup + 2T; or one full packet
Cassia
1T + 2tsp
Just over 2T
Just under 4T + 1tsp
½ cup + 1tsp
1 cup + 2tsp; or one full packet
Indigo
2T
2.5T; or 2T + 1.5tsp
5T
10T; or ½ cup + 2T
1 ¼ cup, or one full packet
How much fruit acid do I need?
Ancient Sunrise® offers a variety of fruit acid powders to use in place of a fruit juice or mildly acidic liquid. Just mix the fruit acid powder into your henna/cassia, add distilled water, and let the paste dye-release.
If you use Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powder, just add distilled water! No fruit juice necessary.
The amount of fruit acid powder you need depends on the amount of henna/cassia you are using, and the type of fruit acid powders. Ancient Sunrise® offers single-use packets of all of the plant powders, which are each pre-measured to contain enough fruit acid powder for 100g henna or cassia. If you need less than that, or if you have ordered a bulk container of a fruit acid, you’ll need to know how to measure the right amount.
Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino, Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino, and Citric Acid are all very easy. You will need 1tsp per 100g henna/cassia. If you are using indigo, remember that the amount of acid powder you needs is based only on how much henna and/or cassia you are using, not your total amount of plant powder.
Enough for 12.5g henna/cassia
Enough for 25g henna/cassia
Enough for 50g henna/cassia
Enough for 100g henna/cassia
A good pinch; or 1/8 tsp
¼ tsp
½ tsp
1 tsp
Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose, and Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder all require 25g per every 100g henna/cassia. Like plant dye powders, they vary by weight. The chart below shows weight-to-volume conversions
3.125g
6.25g
12.5g
25g
Enough for 12.5g henna/cassia
Enoughfor 25g henna/cassia
Enough for 50g henna/cassia
Enough for 100g henna/cassia
Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry
Just under 1 tsp
½ T, or 1 ½ tsp
1T
2T + ¼ tsp
Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose
Just over 1 tsp
Just under 1T
1.5T
3T
Ancient Sunrise® Amla
1tsp
Just over 2 tsp
1 ½ T; or 1T + 1 ½ tsp
2T + 2tsp
Final Notes
If you’re concerned about getting your plant dye measurements perfectly right, don’t worry. A few grams either way will not affect your color very much, especially with larger mixes. If you are only mixing enough for a root touch-up on thin hair, you may have to be just a tad more precise.
Fruit acid powders also have some wiggle-room, but it’s generally better to have a little too much rather than not enough. Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino and Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino are particularly gentle, and therefore quite forgiving if over-measured.
If all of this made things more confusing instead of clearing things up, not to worry. Ancient Sunrise® offers pre-measured kits for the most common hair colors. Most kits contain enough to cover shoulder-length hair of average thickness. You can also contact customer service directly and ask them to help you determine the measurements for your mix and hair length. If you are placing an order, ask nicely, and they’ll write your recipe on the packing slip.
Contact Customer Service via phone, chat, or email if you have any additional questions.
Henna dyes hair shades of red. Add indigo, and you’ll get brunettes, but what if you have gray, white, or light blonde hair and want to keep it that way? Mixes that have a higher amount of cassia, and a smaller amount of henna and indigo will help dye hair blonde. Tones that range from sun-kissed straw to deep, “dishwater” blonde are possible on lighter hair. These mixes are great for those who don’t want red, brown or black hair, and for those who wish to tint their grays to blend naturally with their root growth. This article will cover everything you might need to achieve your ideal blonde.
Cassia mixes dyed these mohair samples a range of blonde shades.
Cassia
Cassia auriculata is a plant dye powder that has similar benefits of cassia obovata. Clarity’s dye molecule, chrysophanic acid, is too weak to change hair color very much.
Cassia is sometimes incorrectly referred to as “neutral henna” or “colorless henna.” It is not henna, but it is used in a similar way. It needs to be dye-released with a mildly acidic liquid just as henna is, and it also provides hair with strength and shine.
This plant powder will not make dark hair lighter. All plant dye powders add color to the outer layers of the hair strand; none will lift the melanin contained within the hair’s cortex. This plant powder will act as a conditioner without altering the color.
Like henna, cassia’s color can be manipulated depending on a choice of fruit acid, when used with henna or henna and indigo. Fruit acid choices such as Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry and Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino will bring out brighter tones. The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Blonde kit contains Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia, Twilight Henna, Sudina Indigo, and Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino Fruit Acid Powder.
For richer color, greater permanence, and more control over warm and cool tones, one can increase or decrease the amounts of henna and indigo in a mix. The remainder of this article will discuss how to do this.
Adding Henna
The dye molecules from cassia are translucent, and less permanent than henna. Some find that cassia alone provides results that are too subtle and which fade over time. Adding a small amount of henna, a much more permanent dye, leads to warm blond results that do not fade.
Henna and cassia mixes will dye light hair a range of shades from strawberry blonde to bright, fiery orange. The more henna, the warmer and redder the results will be. For results that lean more toward blonde rather than copper, it is important to use a mix that contains a majority of cassia, and just a touch of henna.
Mixing henna and cassia results in warm blondes and light copper results. Note the image above was created using cassia obovata, which we no longer carry.
Feel free to play around with ratios by purchasing samples of the kits, and samples of cassia and henna to test on hair collected from a hairbrush or recent hair cut, or on a 1” section of hair on your head.
Adding Henna and Indigo
Adding both henna and indigo to a cassia mix will allow for darker blondes, and neutral to cool blondes. Equal proportions of both henna and indigo in small quantities added to a larger amount of cassia will result in neutral-to-warm deeper blondes.
The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kit in Chai contains 200g Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia, 50g Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight, and 50g Ancient Sunrise® Sudina Indigo. It is a 4:1:1 ratio of cassia, henna, and indigo. Its fruit acid, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose, assists in adding ash tones. The Chai kit dyes light hair medium to deep blondes. It is a very popular choice for those who wish to blend their gray hair into warm highlights.
Those who want cooler toned blondes can experiment with adjusting their henna and indigo ratios. In a majority cassia mix, more indigo will help to neutralize warm tones from the henna and cassia, resulting in cool. Ash blondes. To keep results light, cassia should always make up the majority of the mix, or about 75% minimum. Indigo should not be more than three times the amount of henna. Too much indigo will cause results to have a violet tinge.
Just a few possibilities for mixing cassia, henna, and indigo, and the expected results when applied to light hair.Please note that 100% cassia will not give golden tones, this is what you can expect with the current Ancient Sunrise Blonde Kit.
An example mix for a cool, lighter blonde on gray hair could be 6 parts cassia, 1 part henna, and 2 parts indigo. Mixes using all three powders can be more complicated, as there are more factors to control. You can read Full Coverage: How to Achieve Neutral or Cool Tones to learn more about mixing cassia, henna, and indigo to achieve your perfect cool-toned color.
Remember that ratios should be based on dry powder weight. If you need help converting weight to teaspoon/tablespoon measurements, feel free to contact the experts at customer service.
Using a mix of cassia and indigo without henna is generally unadvised. Both dyes are less permanent without the presence of henna. In some cases, a cassia/indigo mix may be used to tone away warm tones in hair that has been hennaed already and is too red.
Final Tips
Cassia is particularly sensitive to hard water. A build-up of minerals will turn cassia-dyed hair from golden yellow to a murky brown or awkward gray. It is highly recommended to use Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash to clarify hair prior to dyeing, and periodically afterward.
Hair that is dyed with cassia will become dark when subjected to minerals. Use Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Clarifying Treatment to keep hair light and bright.
Using Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash prior to dyeing will also ensure the best color results. Build-up may prevent adequate dye uptake, leading to weaker results.
As with any mix, it is better to start lighter and go darker. Many clients who are looking for blonde results specify that they want to stay as light as possible. For some, just a spoonful or two of henna and indigo for a full packet of cassia will be enough to achieve the desired results. Gradually deepening your results will be much simpler than unintentionally dyeing your hair too dark and trying to remove the color.
Conclusion
Hair that is dyed with natural plant dye powders doesn’t have to be red, brunette, or black. Blonde shades are great for those have have naturally light hair and want to keep it that way, and for those want to tint or brighten their gray hair without going too dark. Blonde mixes allow gray root growth to blend more easily into the length. Those who have used henna for hair products and wish to transition back to natural gray hair can use blonde mixes to do so.
It is important to keep in mind that cassia, henna, and indigo are all additive dyes, and cannot make the hair lighter. If one wishes to dye their naturally dark hair blonde with cassia, they can consider lightening their hair first, then dyeing the lightened result with a blonde mix. Remember to consult a professional stylist for lightening.
Henna is known for its ability to dye hair rich, vibrant shades that bring forth thoughts of copper pennies, autumn leaves, and crackling fires. However, not everyone wants to be a red-head. Those familiar with using natural plants dyes might know that combinations of henna and indigo will result in brown-reds and medium to deep brunettes. A two-step process will leave hair raven black. What a lot of people do not seem to know is that neutral and cool tones are possible with the right techniques.
A common concern voiced by new henna users is that even a henna/indigo mixture will result in a brunette shade that is too warm for their liking. Many prefer neutral to cool tones in their hair, as they believe it better suits their complexions. While somewhat tricky, neutral and cool toned hair colors are possible using the right combination of henna and indigo (and sometimes cassia), and the right fruit acid. Because each person’s hair varies on undertone, porosity, and dye-resistance, getting the perfect color may take some patience and strand-testing. Remember that our henna experts are available to talk you through the process, and help you troubleshoot if needed, until you achieve your perfect color.
A Quick Return to the Basics
If you have clicked around on this blog, in the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Free E-book, or in another of our many resources, you should be familiar with the processes of mixing and dye-releasing henna, cassia, and indigo. If not, feel free to pause here and glance over Henna for Hair 101: The Bare Essentials, and Henna for Hair 101: Choosing Your Mix.
Ratios for henna and indigo are easy to remember: Equal parts henna and indigo will result in a medium brunette. More henna will add more warm tones, and more indigo will darken the shade. Cassia makes henna and henna/indigo mixtures lighter, but does not lighten hair.
It may be logical to believe that the more indigo you add into the mix, the cooler the resulting shade will be. Yes… and no. Indigo on its own dyes hair a blue tone, and it neutralizes warm tones created by henna. However, adding more indigo to a medium brunette mix will create a dark brunette mix. That dark brunette result may still be a warm dark brunette due to henna’s red dye.
While using indigo is one part of achieving a neutral or cool hair color, the correct choice in fruit acid is equally important. Fruit acids can bring out bright, warm tones, or mute them. With an effective indigo component and the right fruit acid, you’ll be on your way to lovely neutral brunettes. If you’d like a lighter neutral color, such as those in the blonde family, a little extra tinkering will get you there.
Indigo
It is not uncommon for henna/indigo users to report that their roots are coming out too red, or hair appears redder over time. This is due to indigo’s higher tendency toward fading. Achieving an effective bind of indoxyl molecules to the hair will be particularly necessary for those who wish to avoid warm tones. This means understanding the chemistry behind the indoxyl/indigo molecules, and the most effective ways to ensure a permanent stain.
Indigo plant powder contains an indigo precursor molecule, indoxyl, which is immediately released when the powder is mixed with water. Indoxyl is a tricky, picky molecule. As soon as the indigo mixed into a paste, indoxyls look to bind with oxygen to transform into a stable indigo molecule. The indigo molecule will not bind to the hair. This process is similar to henna demise, but occurs much more rapidly.
It is important to mix indigo paste only right when you are ready to dye your hair, and work quickly once the paste is mixed. Preventing unnecessary exposure to air will keep the molecules in their indoxyl state longer, allowing them to bind to keratin rather than oxygen.
In the presence of oxygen, two indoxyl molecules bind with each other to form indigo, which is a stable molecule.
Once the dye is in the hair, the extent to which it binds to and stays in the hair is dependent on several factors including hair texture and the presence of dirt, oils, and mineral build-up. It is not uncommon to see a henna/indigo mixture begin as a nice, neutral brunette, and become more auburn as the indigo fades and the henna stays put. If you desire a cool or neutral shade, this is something you’d obviously like to avoid. Doing the following will ensure a successful and permanent indigo stain.
Black, gray, and white wool is dyed with indigo only, revealing shades of blue.
Clarify, clarify, clarify
Indigo binds best to squeaky clean hair. This means no oils, conditioners, hair products, dirt, grime, mineral build-up, leftover snacks, or fuzzy animal friends. At the very least, wash your hair thoroughly with a shampoo specially made for clarifying buildup. Clarifying shampoos are easily found at salons and beauty supply stores, and they are showing up more and more frequently now at regular drugstores as well.
Do yourself one better and start with Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment, and then follow that up with a good rinse with a clarifying shampoo. Wash your hair immediately before applying your henna/indigo mixture, and remember to skip the conditioner. Anything left on the hair creates an obstacle for the indoxyl molecules and increases the chances of a weak bond that will fade over time.
Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash is a natural treatment that removes mineral buildup. Mix 1 teaspoon of product with 2oz. distilled water to create a gel, and apply it to the hair, leaving it in for at least 15 minutes.
For those who have extra-resistant hair, we will recommend scrubbing the scalp and roots with a few drops of liquid dish soap. Dish soap is a very strong detergent and will wipe out any residual oils which might get in the way of a good indigo stain. Keep in mind that in doing so, the soap will dry out the scalp, but this dryness is temporary and can be fixed with a conditioning treatment after washing out your dye mixture. For the purpose of a good indigo stain, hair that is dry (absent of oils) and slightly roughed-up is the best. The hair closest to the roots is smoother and less porous, making it more resistant to dye.
Salt helps
For extra staying power, add 1 teaspoon of regular table salt (not sea salt or Himalayan; they contain minerals!) per every 100g indigo powder. The salt helps to strengthen the indigo’s bond to the hair by temporarily altering the surface texture of the hair strand, allowing a better stain.
Heat helps, too
After applying the henna/indigo paste and wrapping your hair with plastic, gently heat your hair. You can use a dryer bonnet, sit outside on a warm day, place a heated blanket or heating pad over your head, or aim a hair dryer at your head for a few minutes at a time. Heat opens the hair’s cuticles, allowing more dye to migrate into the shaft. Heat will also cut down on processing time. Under consistent warm temperatures (100F-140F), you can cut processing time roughly in half.
If you don’t have access to a dryer hood or heating pad, wrap your hair and sit somewhere warm. The towel or scarf will keep your body heat in the paste, and prevent dripping.
Fruit Acids
Henna should always be dye-released with an acidic liquid, or an acidic fruit powder plus distilled water. Some acids bring out and maintain henna’s bright, warm tones. Others mute the tones. You will want to use the latter.
The two best fruit acids for neutral and cool results are Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose and Ancient Sunrise® Amla.
Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose is derived from the purple aronia fruit, and is very high in anthocyanins. Anthocyanins are what cause blueberries to be blue. When used to dye-release henna, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose adds subtle ash tones to the henna, cooling the overall shade. Once the henna is dye-released and mixed with indigo, the resulting color is neutral without being overly dark.
The purple aronia fruit, similar to blueberries, is high is anthocyanins which add a subtle blue tone to henna mixes.
Ancient Sunrise®Amla powder is another solid choice. Amla mutes warm tones by pushing the henna dye molecules toward brown during the dye release process. Amla on its own is not a dye, and will not color hair. It simply tweaks the color the lawsone precursor molecules during dye-release. As an added bonus, Amla helps indigo bind more effectively by temporarily snapping hydrogen bonds in the keratin of the hair, allowing the indigo dye to migrate in more effectively. The result is a cooler and often deeper brunette without warm undertones.
Ancient Sunrise® offers pre-made Henna for Hair kits in Cool Brunette and Cool Dark Brunette, which both contain amla as the fruit acid. If you are looking for brown hair without red, a good place to start would be to order either or both sample kits to test, and then go from there. You may find that one works perfectly for you, or you can adjust the formula to create your own custom mix.
The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Kit: Cool Dark Brunette contains 100g Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna, 200g Ancient Sunrise® Sudina Indigo, and 25g Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder.
Getting Fancy: Cassia, Henna, and Indigo Mixes
Mixing cassia, henna, and indigo allows for a wide range of lighter neutral shades, from ‘hint of dirty blonde” to “coffee with cream brunette.” Cassia acts to “dilute” the henna and indigo in such a way that the hue remains stable, but the shade is made lighter.
Cassia and henna together make warm blonde to bright copper tones. Henna and indigo make red to dark brunette. All three together create neutral, muted results.
This will be explored in more depth in a future article. If your hair is lighter or gray, equal parts henna and indigo result in a medium brunette. Equal parts henna, cassia, and indigo will result in a light-medium brunette. Keep adding cassia until you have 80% cassia, 10% henna, and 10% indigo, and you have a mix which dyes light hair a deep blonde.
Some customers find that their hair still shows too much warmth with the Chai kit, so they decrease the henna. Because the mix contains mostly cassia, they can adjust the henna/indigo ratio without going darker. Remember that cassia is a light, translucent golden dye, and will not lighten hair.
Toning Warm Tones
If your mix comes out too warm, there are ways to calm it down. We generally recommend waiting a week after your first application because it can cool down on its own. If you’ve “been there, done that” and your hair generally is warm, it is okay to tone after your initial application.
To give your hair more of a cool tone, you will need cassia and indigo. The amount of each and the time will vary. Testing is crucial so that you don’t over do it and so that you aren’t wasting a lot of product. For more information on toning, visit Toning Henna – Part 1 and Toning Henna – Part 2.
Your Hair’s Natural Color
Henna, indigo, and cassia all stain the hair’s outer layers of keratin. This does not affect the hair’s natural melanin, which is one reason that the same mix will appear somewhat different on two different heads of hair. Genetics determine the amount of eumelanin and pheomelanin within the hair, which causes hair to be blonde, brunette, or red, and to have warm or cool undertones. Eumelanin causes hair to have ash tones, or to be dark. Black hair has the highest amount of eumalanin. Pheomelanin give hair red tones. Natural redheads have the highest levels of pheomelanin. Most hair colors have some ratio of both.
It will be more difficult to achieve a neutral or cool hair color with a very warm starting hair color. A natural redhead may have to play around with plant powder ratios and acids much more than someone who is starting with a medium ash blond, in order to achieve a cool brunette.
How to Begin
The best plan is to start with test samples, and determine which one provided the closest color to your goal. From there, you can adjust plant dye ratios, and try both Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose and Amla fruit powders. If your test sample came out too dark, increase cassia or decrease indigo. If it was too light, do the opposite. Remember that increasing the amount of fruit acid will not neutralize more red; doing so will only make the mix too acidic. Don’t hesitate to consult with a Customer Service Representative to fine-tune your mix. Remember to start lighter when in doubt. It is easier to re-apply with a darker mix than it is to lighten.
Samples are an affordable way to try out mixes before purchasing full-sized product. Each sample is enough to use on hairbrush hair, or a small section on hair on your head.
The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Facebook group is another great source for custom mixes and before/after photos from fellow customers. Use this as a resource to ask for tips, compare results and gauge your expected outcome. It’s also a great way to stay updated on new blog articles and special promotions!
Final Notes on Neutral and Cool Tones
Remember that your results will take about a week to oxidize into their final color. Hair can appear brighter upon first rinsing out the mix. Do not be alarmed if you see red or copper tones in your hair. Be patient, and wait that week before reapplying. During the oxidation period, the warm tones will diminish. If you are impatient, you may use heat to speed up the oxidation process. Heat will darken hennaed hair rapidly, and permanently. Keep this in consideration before beginning.
Maria • Ancient Sunrise® Specialist • Licensed Cosmetologist
Damaris • Licensed Cosmetologist • Ancient Sunrise® Specialist
Liz • Ancient Sunrise® Specialist 
