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Back to Nature: Is Henna the Future of Commercial Hair Dye?

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Commercial hair dye companies are slowly learning a painful secret: “Fast, easy, and cheap” has been beneficial for business for just over a century, but will not be sustainable in the coming decades.

              The majority of permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes available in stores and used in salons contain para-phenylenediamine (PPD). PPD, a coal-tar derivative dye, was first used as a commercial fur dye until consumers quickly realized that they could use it on their own hair [1]. PPD-based hair dyes entered the market at the turn of the 20th century. Oxidative hair dyes could be made in a range of colors. The products were easy to use and worked quickly. The color result was relatively permanent. These features made PPD dyes very attractive.

              Oscar Wilde was one of the first public figures believed to be sensitized to PPD. Repeated exposures, and/or exposures to high concentrations of PPD lead to sensitization and allergic reaction. This can happen to anyone. As with other allergens, a person can be born allergic to PPD, or that person can develop a sensitivity after exposure. Only about 1.5% of the population is born allergic to PPD. The rest are sensitized through exposure. Kligman’s study showed that 100% of subjects developed a sensitization to PPD after five or fewer patch tests of a 10% PPD mixture [2]. Although sensitization rates vary depending on demographics, country, and gender, conservative estimates say around the numbers are around 6.2% in North America, 4% in Europe, and 4.3% in Asia [3].

The PPD Era

 Prior to 1934, there was no restriction on the concentration of para-phenylenediamine allowed in beauty products. It was even in eyelash tints, which led to corneal ulcerations and conjunctivitis [4]. One such product, LashLure, ended up in an installation at the 1933 Chicago world’s fair called “The Chamber of Horrors.” This installation, set up by the FDA, exposed dangerous products. Although doctors, manufacturers, and some consumers were aware of the dangers of PPD hair dyes from the very beginning, they continue to be sold in the United States. While products containing higher than 6% PPD are now illegal, it is still easy enough to find highly concentrated, powdered PPD hair dye products online and in local ethnic grocery stores. Certain countries such as France, Germany, and Sweden have banned PPD products altogether [5].

An advertisement for hair dye from 1885.

              PPD sensitization rates have risen. It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of the western population will be sensitized [6]. This means that fewer people will be able to use oxidative hair dyes and other products containing PPD; hair dye companies will see a loss in their customer base. These companies will also see increased reports of injury, and increasing numbers of lawsuits.

              Commercial hair dye companies are now showing interest in returning to a practice that has existed for thousands of years: Dyeing hair with henna and other plant dye powders. For example, L’Oreal recently announced its plans to release a line called Botanea, an all-natural and vegan hair dye line based on henna, indigo, and cassia. Other companies have also produced and marketed henna and plant-based dye products to varying degrees of success.

              Whether this “new” return to plant dye powders will be successful to cosmetics corporations will depend highly on the ways they choose to produce and market the product, and how they plan to engage a population which has been dependent on oxidative dyes for so long. Not only will it require these companies to learn the science behind this completely different technique, but to also admit and come to terms with the danger of PPD which they have denied for over a hundred years. Finally, it will also call for the development of henna farms and mills in areas where henna crops will thrive, and the establishment of high standards for exported products.

PPD Sensitization as an Epidemic

              In the past decades, we have seen a rise in the rate of PPD sensitization. Not only are more people developing reactions to PPD, but their ages are getting younger. This is correlated with the popularity of “black henna” tattoos in tourist areas, as well as the increase of young people using hair dyes [7]. Catherine Cartwright-Jones, Ph.D. explores this epidemic in detail in her dissertation, “The Geographies of the Black Henna Meme Organism and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization: A Qualitative History.”

              “Black henna” is nothing but a concentrated PPD hair dye mixture, applied directly to the skin. Hair dyes in the United States contain up to 6% PPD. These “black henna” mixtures can contain 25% PPD concentration or higher, enough to sensitize a person within one application. The use of PPD on the skin is illegal in the United States, but “black henna” stalls are very common in tourist areas, and the law is not actively enforced.

              The practice of using concentrated hair dye to create designs on the skin began in North Africa in the 1970s, and by the 1990s it was popular in western tourist destinations such as resorts, amusement parks, and boardwalks. When a child or young adult gets a “black henna tattoo” while on vacation, then, years later, uses a commercial hair dye containing PPD, they can experience a reaction serious enough to land them in the hospital. To learn more about PPD sensitization, read What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD).

These powdered hair dyes contain concentrated PPD and are easily available online and in local stores despite restrictions.

              PPD is also used in printing, the manufacturing of black rubber, and many other industries and products. From the start, doctors and scientists were concerned about the negative effects of PPD and warned consumers of its dangers [8]. However, on November 2, 1934, the FDA struck up an agreement that hair dyes could contain up to a 6% concentration of PPD as long as the packaging contained adequate warning. Since then, the vast majority of permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes sold in stores and used in salons contain PPD.

Here is the exact wording from the FDA:

“What the Law Says About Coal-tar Hair Dyes

Under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act), a law passed by Congress, color additives must be approved by FDA for their intended use before they are used in FDA-regulated products, including cosmetics. Other cosmetic ingredients do not need FDA approval.  FDA can take action against a cosmetic on the market if it is harmful to consumers when used in the customary or expected way and used according to labeled directions.

How the law treats coal-tar hair dyes:

  • FDA cannot take action against a coal-tar hair dye, as long as the label includes a special caution statement and the product comes with adequate directions for consumers to do a skin test before they dye their hair. This is the caution statement:
    Caution – This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary test according to accompanying directions should first be made. This product must not be used for dyeing the eyelashes or eyebrows; to do so may cause blindness. (FD&C Act, 601(a))
  • Coal-tar hair dyes, unlike color additives in general, do not need FDA approval. (FD&C Act, 601(e)).”

              What this means is that companies producing hair dyes containing 6% PPD or less, as long as they provide adequate warning and instructions for patch testing, are relatively well protected from injury suits. Despite numerous serious reactions to hair dye, and despite it being well-documented that PPD is a highly sensitizing compound responsible for the vast majority of hair dye allergies, these companies are widely immune to legal repercussions.

Taking The Hair Dye Giants to Court

              There have been a number of attempts at lawsuits and class action suits against certain companies, such as several recent cases against Just For Men. Those involved in the class action suit against Just For Men believed that the company was intentionally targeting men of color in the marketing of their Jet Black dye, which contained a high level of PPD. Other cases posited that the patch test instructions were not sufficient for properly determining sensitivity prior to applying the dye.

              The problem with patch-testing is that PPD often causes a delayed hypersensitivity reaction whose onset may not occur until several days after the test. Most patch tests advise waiting 24 hours. Some people experience no reaction following their first application, but have been sensitized to future reactions. This lack of initial reaction leads to serious consequences when that person, unaware of their new allergy, is exposed to PPD again. Many people who experience severe reactions to hair dye had gotten a “black henna” tattoo earlier in their life. In the case of products sold to men for hair and beard use, a consumer may find that they do not react when conducting a patch test on the inner arm, but experience a reaction on their face, where the skin is thin, sensitive, and potentially abraded from grooming.

The required warning and patch test advisory on a package of Just For Men hair and beard dye.

              Lawyers defending hair dye companies have used PPD’s delayed reaction to their advantage, by insisting that there is no way to tell for sure whether the product caused the reaction, if the reaction did not appear until several days after the customer used the product.

              One of the first legal suits against a hair-dye company was that of hairdresser Pauline Karr against Inecto Notox Rapid in 1926. Notox was aggressively marketed as a safe and harmless dye which could be easily applied at home. Despite the fact that companies, consumers, and doctors were already aware of the dangers of PPD, Inecto and other companies did not disclose their products ingredients; at that time, they were not legally required to do so, as the formula was protected as a trade secret.

              The dye dripped onto Karr’s finger, staining it black, and she experienced a severe reaction twelve hours later. Karr lost the use of that finger, and sued Inecto. The company won on appeal. Inecto’s lawyers argued that there was no way to prove that the product itself caused the reaction that occurred twelve hours later, and that the company was so large and successful, with thousands of products sold, that there was no way that the dye could be unsafe. Because the company claimed that its formula was the reason for its success, they believed that they were under no obligation to divulge the dye’s ingredients.

              This reasoning was used time and time again in following suits. Hair dye companies claim that any injury cannot be reasonably linked to the use of the product itself, and that if any injury does come about from the product, it must be due to misuse on the consumer’s part. Now with the FDA’s stance, hair dye companies are safe from legal repercussion as long as the dye contains 6% or less PPD, and they have adequate warnings on their product labels.

              In some rare cases, the plaintiff wins against the company, such as Falk vs. Inecto in 1927. Falk’s lawyer claimed that Inecto Notox Rapid hair dye contained toxic and dangerous substances and that the company was negligent in marketing it as a safe, non-toxic product.

NOTOX “assures absolute naturalness” and claims to be “composed of mild organic ingredients.”

The End of the PPD Hair Dye Era

              What commercial hair dye companies are not immune to, however, is a loss in customer base. It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of the adult western population will be sensitized to PPD. 7% of the population will experience a reaction serious enough to require hospitalization [6]. People working in industries where they are regularly exposed to PPD, such as hair styling, fur-dyeing, black rubber manufacturing, and printing, are at higher risk of sensitization. Many hair stylists have had to quit after no longer being able to handle hair dyes. Those who develop a sensitization to PPD have it for life, and will experience reactions to products outside of hair dye, which contain PPD or ingredients involved in cross-reactions.

              These companies are not ignorant of the facts. They know that people experience reactions after using hair dye containing PPD. They know that sensitization to hair dye is related to “black henna” tattoos. PPD was named allergen of the year in 2006. Scientists and doctors have long studied the connection between hair dye and contact dermatitis, and delayed-reaction sensitization. Despite this, the beauty industry giants hire their own researchers to put out articles insisting that PPD is safe [9].

              Henna, Cassia, and Indigo plant dye powders have been used to naturally color the hair for thousands of years. When used in the right ratios, these three plant powders can produce an infinite range of natural hair colors, from blonde to jet black. Henna was particularly popular during La Belle Epoque– the end of the 1800s and the beginning of the 1900s. Artists like Toulouse Lautrec painted women with beautifully vivid red hair. Hennaed hair was seen as sensual and exotic.

              Henna was upstaged by PPD hair dyes during the mid-1900s, as PPD was cheap, easy to use, and provided fast results. Hair dye companies selling henna attempted to make the process easier for the western customer base by creating compound henna products. These products contained metallic salts and other additives meant to alter the color results and make up for low-quality plant powders. As henna powder imports decreased during WWI and WWII, compound henna products were a way to cheapen the product. These additives had nasty effects, especially when oxidative hair dyes or lighteners were applied over hair that was previously dyed with compound henna. Thus, henna’s reputation was sullied. Henna was associated with dirtiness, backwardness, and brassy, orange hair. Many stylists associate still these negative effects with henna itself, rather than the additives contained in compound henna. The use of pure plant powders as hair dye is not taught in cosmetology schools, while the negative bias toward henna is perpetuated. It is common for stylists to refuse to work on hair that has been hennaed. 

              But the customer base for commercial hair dyes is shrinking as PPD sensitization spreads. Companies have responded by creating and marketing hair dyes that are “PPD free.” These dyes, though they do not contain para-phenylenediamine, use a molecularly similar ingredient instead, such as para-toluenediamine. Para-toluenediamine is another coal-tar dye within the same molecular family. Is still sensitizing, though less so. Whether a person is sensitive to PPD or PTD, cross-sensitization will still occur. This means that many “PPD free” hair dyes are still unsafe, especially for those who have a PPD sensitivity. PPD sensitivities can also lead to cross-reactions with a number of other materials, such as certain fabric dyes, synthetic fragrances, anesthetics, 

              PPD also goes by a number of different names. Companies may list para-phenylenediamine under a lesser-known name to make their product appear safer. Here are alternative names for PPD:

  • PPDA
  • Phenylenediamine base
  • p-Phenylenediamine
  • 4-Phenylenediamine
  • 1,4-Phenylenediamine
  • 4-Benzenediamine
  • 1,4-Benzenediamine
  • para-Diaminobenzene (p-Diaminobenzene)
  • para-Aminoaniline (p-Aminoaniline) [10]

              Other consumers, whether or not they have a PPD allergy, are simply looking for more natural, or “chemical free” products. We are entering an era in which consumers are more health-conscious, more environmentally-conscious, and more wary of large corporations. People no longer want to blindly buy products, but instead choose to do research, read reviews, and read labels. Companies respond by altering their packaging, releasing new products that appear to be healthier, safer, or containing an exotic, natural ingredient. However, there is no regulation on words like, “natural,” or “pure.” Just because a product contains a natural ingredient does not make it any safer. In the same logic, one could add a plant extract to antifreeze and call it “natural.”

An old shampoo advertisement marketing new “exotic formulas.”

              Certain cosmetic companies are now looking into attempting what Ancient Sunrise® has done for years: providing pure plant powder hair dye. If done correctly, this change can be a win in the battle against PPD. But the emphasis is on correctly. We have already seen what happens when henna is manipulated with additives for the sake of “cheap and easy.” Henna does not work well with short-cuts. If these companies wish to be successful, they must take the time to understand the art, science, and culture of the natural hair dye world. Failing to do so will result in a waste of time and resources, and potentially an additional blow to the reputation of henna for hair.

What Must Happen For A Successful Transition

Here is what cosmetic companies will need to understand in order to bring henna for hair into the mainstream market:

1. Henna Has its Own Science That Cannot Be Messed With

              In their attempts to sell henna, the biggest mistake that commercial hair dye companies fall into time and time again is their attempt to make it quicker and easier to use. They assume that western consumers want simple, quick-fix solutions and are incapable of using a product that requires too many steps.

              We have seen the damage that compound henna products have done, both to the hair of the consumer, and to the reputation of henna. Adding metallic salts to henna will not work. “Henna” products that are sold as a liquid or cream are anything but henna. They may contain some henna (or henna extract, whatever that means), but it is unlikely that the plant dye is doing much of the work. Many of these products contain commercial dyes, either coal-tar derived, or azo-dyes. Any natural plant ingredient is there to make the product seem healthier, whether or not the ingredient is even necessary or useful in hair dye. All of the exotic oils, dried flowers, and cocoa powder in the world cannot fix a formula based on bad science.

               Because there is no regulation on what can or cannot be called “henna,” these products are extremely misleading to the uneducated consumer. To read more about products claiming to be henna, read Henna for Hair 101: Body Art Quality (BAQ) Henna, Compound Henna, and Hair Dye That Really Isn’t Henna.

              Other companies sell pre-mixed powders containing henna, indigo, cassia, and other plant ingredients all combined into one. These products may recommend mixing the powder with hot water. This will not work because henna and indigo require different dye-release processes to work effectively. Henna must be dye-released with a mildly acidic liquid and left at room temperature for several hours before application. Indigo must be mixed with a neutral or slightly alkaline liquid, and used right away. Thus, a pre-mixed product mixed with hot water will yield undesired results, and fade rapidly.

              Some companies offer oil-based “bars” that contain henna and other plant dyes, and are meant to be mixed with water and melted down. Again, these products are an example of bad science. Oil prevents the dye molecules from binding to the hair shaft. The result is, again, far from the desired color and quick to fade.

              Plant dye powders cannot be mixed. Extra ingredients, either “chemical” or “natural,” are not necessary. The process cannot be sped up. Cutting corners leads to inferior results. Companies must understand that if they want to bring henna and natural hair dye back to the market in an effective and successful way, they must accept that consumers are capable of and willing to learn the science. Ancient Sunrise® has been doing this for years. Its customer base continues to grow. By providing well-researched resources, attentive customer support, and pure, unadulterated plant dye powders, Ancient Sunrise® has built a community of educated consumers who enjoy healthy, PPD-free color.

2. Henna for Hair is Highly Individualized

It will not work to force henna for hair into a one-size-fits-all model. Henna, indigo, and cassia all create a translucent stain on the hair. Unlike oxidative dyes which can lift the hair color with ammonia and peroxide, plant dyes cannot cause the hair to be any lighter. Thus, the result is highly dependent on each person’s initial hair color.

              Other factors such as a person’s hair texture and condition, body chemistry, local water supply, and personal lifestyle may also affect color results. Therefore, it will not work to slap a color swatch onto a package and claim that that is the result a customer should expect. While many henna-users achieve their desired results within the first or second try, others will need to adjust their recipes and techniques until they find what works best for them.

              Henna is at the center of most natural hair dye mixes. Alone, it stains light hair red, copper, or auburn. Indigo is used alongside henna to create brunette shades. It can also be applied separately after henna to dye the hair black. Cassia adds golden tones and is the primary dye in blond mixes. To learn more about plant dyes for hair, read Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 5: Plants that Dye Hair.

              Off-the-shelf home hair dye kits normally contain two or more bottles containing liquids that are to be combined and then applied. The process does not require much thought on the part of the customer. Henna for hair, on the other hand, involves combining up to three types of plant dye powders in a specific ratio to achieve a certain color. These powders must be packaged individually. When companies try to create henna-based products that mimic the easy application process of commercial hair dyes, the results are inferior.

Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits provide individually packaged plant dye powders at the correct ratios to achieve a wide range of natural colors.

Because individual differences add so many variables to hennaing hair, both companies and consumers must be aware that it takes patience and communication to achieve the best results. If a customer simply picks up a henna for hair product off the shelf, tries it, and doesn’t like the results, they may never try henna again. They might never know why it didn’t work the way they wanted it to, and what they could have done differently to get the result they wanted. 

              This is why it essential to create a community of knowledgeable henna-users, and to have this community become part of the mainstream hair and beauty culture. Such communities exist for African-textured hair, for people who grow their hair long, for people who abstain from commercial shampoos, and so on. The Ancient Sunrise® Henna group on Facebook is very active and has over 3750 members. This number increases daily. In this group, members share before and after photos, ask questions, and guide each other. When a question is particularly specific or complex, the Ancient Sunrise® customer service representatives act as the “experts”. They are trained in the science of henna for hair in such a way that they can create individualized mix recipes and offer advice, based on an assessment of a customer’s desires, troubles, and hair history.

              Henna for hair is not possible without this kind of support system. Hennaing one’s hair was once common knowledge. Now, people may perm, bleach, and color their own hair at home using store-bought products, but they are largely unfamiliar with mixing and applying plant dye powders. Hair stylists have always functioned as ambassadors between the professional world of beauty, and the day-to-day consumer. If henna is to be successful, it will need to be taught to hair stylists in the same way oxidative dyes are taught. The bias against henna must end, and be replaced with more accurate information. If not, misinformation will spread and distrust will grow between stylists, and consumers who have chosen to switch to henna. The following section will suggest ways in which stylists can become leaders in the switch to plant dyes.

3. Changing the Culture Should Start with Stylists

Henna’s bad reputation continues to live on through the misinformation taught to and spread by hair stylists. This is not the stylists’ fault. Cosmetology texts contain the same out-of-date information in regards to henna that they have for decades. Cosmetologists come to know this misinformation as fact. The dangers associated with henna come from compound henna, where the culprits are metallic salts, not the henna itself. Compound henna products are, indeed, an absolute nightmare for the hair. Now, many stylists still believe that henna damages the hair, that it coats the hair and makes it brittle, and that the hair cannot be lightened once hennaed. In reality, henna is much safer and healthier for the hair. Oxidative dyes use chemicals to break past the keratin cuticle to deposit dye and to destroy melanin cells, thereby weakening both the internal and external structure of the hair strand [11, 12]. Henna, indigo, and cassia deposit dye that binds to the keratin at the outer layers of the strand, leaving the structure not only intact, but reinforced.

              Time and time again, Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair users report that their stylists react negatively upon hearing that they use henna. They will scold their clients and try to persuade them to stop. Some stylists will refuse to work on hair that has been dyed with henna. This is understandable; because of the lack of regulation on products labeled as “henna,” it is nearly impossible to determine if the product the client previously used was truly safe, or whether it would react with other chemicals. While Ancient Sunrise® plant dye powders are all subjected to rigorous lab tests to ensure purity and safety, the same cannot be guaranteed by other brands.

              Many stylists, however, see the wonderful color and condition of our clients’ hair and begin to develop an interest in henna. Several stylists are now offering Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair services in their own salons. Some have ceased using oxidative dyes altogether, and work exclusively with henna and other plant dyes. Ancient Sunrise® offers free resources and training, as well as a discount to salons and stylists who use our products in their work.

Lisa Marchesi-Hunter offers Ancient Sunrise® plant dye services in her salon in Sedona, Arizona. She and her client have given permission for the use of this image.

              PPD sensitization occurs at high rates in the cosmetology industry because stylists expose themselves to hair dye regularly [13]. Many develop such severe reactions that they are no longer able to work as stylists. Henna for hair offers a unique opportunity for stylists who have been sensitized to PPD to continue doing what they love without the risk of allergic reaction. By training stylists in the use of plant dyes, not only will salons be able to offer new services to maintain and build their clientele, but they will be able to employ talented individuals who might otherwise have been forced to find new work.

              Stylists have a special and unique relationship with their clients. They connect at a personal level, working with both the client’s appearance and emotions. The clients see them as friends, and also trust their knowledge of hair and beauty. Studies have been done on the use of salons and barbershops as venues for discussing other health issues, such as cardiovascular disease and prostate cancer [14, 15]. It is not absurd, then, to imagine that stylists can have discussions with their clients about switching from oxidative dyes to plant-based dyes, if the client is concerned about sensitization. Now, many doctors who are familiar with the benefits of henna recommend it to their patients who have hair dye allergies. However many of these patients have a hard time finding good products and solid information, and stylists who are willing to help them apply it. It will be of great benefit for more stylists to explore and embrace natural dyes.

4. Henna for Hair Will Require Education and A Shift in Culture

The world of beauty is fast-paced, and constantly innovating. Both professionals and customers are quick to pick up on new styles, products, and techniques. Social media helps to spread new trends quickly. While only a few years ago many people would have never heard of the terms, balayage, or ombré, these are now highly sought-after styles, illustrated by thousands of images on the internet and social media sites. Special communities share and discuss techniques for a variety of hair textures and needs. The same is happening now for henna, and must continue into the mainstream, if hair dye companies wish to be successful in selling henna, indigo, and cassia plant dye powders.

              This is because the process of dyeing hair with plant dye powders cannot easily fit into a small pamphlet that accompanies a product. The current model of the store-bought hair dye market sets the company as the “expert” of knowledge that is seemingly too complicated for the average customer. The company is trusted to “know what is best” for the consumer, so the consumer can simply buy a product and apply it without question. With henna, a company cannot sell a secret formula; it must provide individually packaged, pure plant powders, along with the correct resources to help the consumer learn how to use them. It is the difference between selling a can of soup, and selling the raw ingredients and a solid recipe.

              Henna for hair communities encourage consumers to take knowledge into their own hands. These customers want to know what they are putting on their bodies, and exactly how to create their desired look. They want to know not only how to do it, but how it works and why it works. This new model replaces the instructional pamphlet with active learning and interpersonal interactions. Henna users use resources and each other to perfect their techniques. Passive consumption is replaced with educated consumers making active decisions based on the information they share and seek out.

              Where henna was originally used, women spent entire days together at public bathhouses where they would gather to clean themselves, relax, chat, and henna their hair. These techniques were passed from person to person, and from mother to child. Now, as people bathe and groom alone, the internet takes the place as the 21st century bathhouse.

              If training is made available to stylists, either through elective additional programs, or within the cosmetology curriculum, stylists can then become trusted experts and ambassadors for plant dyes.  This will require that the outdated misconceptions about henna be replaced with up-to-date information. This information is already freely available through Ancient Sunrise®. We have recently designed a training program which can visit salons interested in using the brand, educating stylists on the science and technique over the course of a few days. This program is adaptable to the size and needs of each individual business. The price is dependent on instructors’ time, materials, and travel costs.

Gwyn presents to a salon company in Italy. Photo credit: Maria Moore

              As the more salons begin to offer natural, safe alternatives to PPD-based hair dyes, others will follow suit in order to compete in this new market. It is very likely that, if done correctly, plant-based hair dyeing will become commonplace in the hair styling industry. One day, the use of oxidative hair dyes may be an old-fashioned, backward practice.

5. Mainstreaming Henna Will Require a Reliable Source of High-Quality Product

If henna is to replace PPD dyes in the western market, there will need to be enough product to meet demands. Ideally, henna for hair should be regulated to ensure quality, consistency, and safety. The product should have to meet a standard for sift quality, as well as a standard for maximum allowable pesticides, added dyes, mineral content, and other chemical adulterants (ideally, this maximum should be close to zero). Quality regulation is essential because the reputation of henna has already been tainted by decades of bad product. Stylists and consumers must trust that these products are safe, that they will not damage their hair, and that they will not interact with other products in destructive ways. Pure henna can be lightened with chemical lightening agents. It can be dyed over with oxidative dyes. Adulterated henna products cannot.

              Meeting a high demand for quality product will require the existence of enough farms and milling facilities that operate within the expected standards. Henna is grown in semi-arid climates. Countries such as India, Iran, Yemen, Sudan, and Morocco have grown and produced henna. Currently, the majority of exported henna comes from the Rajasthan area of India. Political, economic, and agricultural factors have caused many countries to decrease production and cease exporting henna. A growth in demand from the western market could greatly boost the agricultural economy of those nations interested in growing and exporting henna.

              Henna is a hardy, drought-tolerant crop which does not require pesticides to thrive. The life of a henna shrub is about fifty years. Because only the leaves are harvested, the crop remains in the soil year after year. The plant’s dense, twisting root system prevents soil erosion. Henna is an ideal crop to grow in the southern boundary Sahel desert in Africa, where it can add to the “green wall” project preventing desert spread. As this region has ideal conditions for henna crops, it can present a great economic opportunity for those who live and work there. Building the henna industry there will require working with locals to establish farms and mills, and maintaining quality standards.

              Currently, there are no regulations on products labeled “henna” coming into the United States. Much of the henna powder currently sold for hair is poorly sifted, stale, low dye-content henna, with large plant particulates, sand, and other debris. This makes the henna difficult to apply and rinse cleanly. Hair is left tangled and with poor color results. As stated before, many products contain additional chemical adulterants.

              Henna is permitted by the FDA only as a hair dye, and not for use on skin. It will be beneficial to legalize pure henna plant powder for all uses and to set up regulations based on lab testing. This way, the United States can ensure that the product entering the country is free of harmful adulterants, and that only products that meet these standards can be sold as henna. These standards should include panels for heavy metals, metallic salts, minerals, and pesticides. Additional testing can regulate sift quality.  Legalization and regulation will lead to safer products and wider availability.

A henna plant and its root system.

Final Notes

PPD sensitization is rising at a rate that will soon make the current hair dye industry unsustainable. A transition from oxidative hair dyes to pure plant dyes within the mainstream market is definitely possible, but it will require earnest effort on the part of those companies which seek to make it happen.

              Hair dye companies will have to completely un-learn their previous ideas of what a hair dye is, and what their consumer expects a hair dye to be. They must engage with stylists and consumers to educate them on products and techniques which are far different from what is commonly used today. They must take the time to establish farms and facilities which are capable of putting out high-quality product.

              Doing so will allow for more people to dye their hair safely and with beautiful, damage-free results. It will provide alternatives for both consumers and stylists who are sensitized to PPD. It will increase opportunities for economic development in those regions suitable for growing henna, and protect those regions from desert spread. It will prevent future allergies and injuries. Switching to henna is a common-sense, feasible solution, but one that must be executed with the utmost deliberation.

References

[1] Ashraf, Waseem, Shiela Dawling, and Lew J. Farrow. “Systemic paraphenylenediamine (PPD) poisoning: a case report and review.” Human & experimental toxicology 13, no. 3 (1994): 167-170.

[2] Kligman, Albert M. “The identification of contact allergens by human assay: III. The maximization test: A procedure for screening and rating contact sensitizers.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 47, no. 5 (1966): 393-409.

[3] Mukkanna, Krishna Sumanth, Natalie M. Stone, and John R. Ingram. “Para-phenylenediamine allergy: current perspectives on diagnosis and management.” Journal of asthma and allergy 10 (2017): 9

[4] McCally, A. W., A. G. Farmer, and E. C. Loomis. “Corneal ulceration following use of Lash-Lure.” Journal of the American Medical Association 101, no. 20 (1933): 1560-1561.

[5] Brancaccio, Ronald R., Lance H. Brown, Young Tae Chang, Joshua P. Fogelman, Erick A. Mafong, and David E. Cohen. “Identification and quantification of para-phenylenediamine in a temporary black henna tattoo.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 13, no. 1 (2002): 15-18.

[6] Smith, Vanessa M., Sheila M. Clark, and Mark Wilkinson. “Allergic contact dermatitis in children: trends in allergens, 10 years on. A retrospective study of 500 children tested between 2005 and 2014 in one UK centre.” Contact dermatitis 74, no. 1 (2016): 37-43.

[7] McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” (2007): 220-220.

[8] Wilbert, Martin I. “Cosmetics as Drugs: A Review of Some of the Reported Harmful Effects of the Ordinary Constituents of Widely Used Cosmetics.” Public Health Reports (1896-1970) (1915): 3059-3066.

[9] Nohynek, Gerhard J., Rolf Fautz, Florence Benech-Kieffer, and Herve Toutain. “Toxicity and human health risk of hair dyes.” Food and Chemical Toxicology 42, no. 4 (2004): 517-543.

[10] DermNet, N. Z. “Allergy to Paraphenylenediamine.” (2005).

[11]Ahn, Hyung Jin, and Won‐Soo Lee. “An ultrastuctural study of hair fiber damage and restoration following treatment with permanent hair dye.” International journal of dermatology 41, no. 2 (2002): 88-92.

[12] Sinclair, Rodney D. “Healthy hair: what is it?.” In Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings, vol. 12, no. 2, pp. 2-5. Elsevier, 2007.

[13]Lind, Marie-Louise, Anders Boman, Jan Sollenberg, Stina Johnsson, Gunnel Hagelthorn, and Birgitta Meding. “Occupational dermal exposure to permanent hair dyes among hairdressers.” Annals of occupational hygiene 49, no. 6 (2005): 473-480.

[14] Releford, Bill J., Stanley K. Frencher Jr, Antronette K. Yancey, and Keith Norris. “Cardiovascular disease control through barbershops: design of a nationwide outreach program.” Journal of the National Medical Association 102, no. 4 (2010): 336.

[15] Luque, John S., Siddhartha Roy, Yelena N. Tarasenko, Levi Ross, Jarrett Johnson, and Clement K. Gwede. “Feasibility study of engaging barbershops for prostate cancer education in rural African-American communities.” Journal of Cancer Education 30, no. 4 (2015): 623-628.

Should You Be Using Lemon Juice In Your Henna Mix?

Lemon juice is very commonly used as the acidic liquid for dye-releasing henna. It is cheap, easy to find, and definitely acidic enough for a good dye release. Many people swear by it, but just as many say that they can’t use it. This is because lemon juice can be drying and irritating for many.

In fact, whenever someone asks why their scalp is itching after a henna application, my first question automatically is, “What did you mix it with?” and 90% of the time, the answer is lemon juice. Later, the customer is thrilled to find that, after switching to another acid, they never experience that problem again.

Lemon juice is also often the culprit behind hennaed hair that became darker than desired. A lemon juice mix yields bright orange tones at first, but the stain oxidizes very dark over time.

This is not to say that lemon juice is unsuitable for henna mixes, or that it should be avoided at all costs; for many people, it is just fine. In fact, I use it most of the time in my own mixes. I am not particularly sensitive to it, and the results work for my needs. For others, however, some discomfort or unwanted results can be avoided by choosing a different acid

If you use lemon juice in your henna mix, or are considering trying it, this article will cover a few things you may want to be aware of. You can then decide whether you would rather use a different acidic liquid or powder.

Note on Lime Juice: All of the following applies the same, and more so, to limes and lime juice. Limes are much harsher, and more likely to cause irritation and photo-sensitivity than lemons. Honestly, just don’t use lime juice. If your heart is set on limes, dilute it generously.

Lemon Juice May Lead to Irritated Skin and Dry-Feeling Hair

As mentioned earlier, lemon juice is a very common cause of itchy scalps post-hennaing. Some people are initially alarmed, and misinterpret this as an allergic reaction to the henna product. While henna allergies do happen, they are extremely rare. Citrus sensitivity, on the other hand, is much more common. To learn more about allergies in relation to plant dye powders, click here.

The low pH of undiluted lemon juice can bother the skin, especially for those with sensitive skin, and especially when henna paste is left on for several hours. The result is dry, irritated skin and rough-feeling hair. The crunchy texture in the hair is temporary, as the cuticles on the hair shaft are raised after a henna treatment, and will settle down in the following days. Cold water and conditioner can help the hair become smooth more quickly.

A henna mix does not need to be extremely acidic in order to achieve dye release. A pH of 4.5 is sufficient. Lemon juice has a pH of 2.3. Consider diluting lemon juice with three or four parts distilled water. Milder juices like apple and cranberry work just as well without needing to be diluted. Ancient Sunrise® offers several fruit acid powders to suit a variety of hair types and needs. Know that each fruit juice or acid powder may yield different effects on the resulting color. Click here for more information on henna and acidic mixes.

Hair may feel rough after henna because dye molecules are settling into place. A very acidic mixture, such as one with undiluted lemon juice, may make this feeling more noticeable.

Lemon Juice Will Make Hennaed Hair Darker, Not Lighter

Lemon juice is a popular way subtly bleach the hair. For those with lighter hair colors, spritzing the hair with lemon juice prior to going out into the sun can bring out highlights. One can also find endless DIY hair treatments involving lemon juice and claiming to lighten hair.

However, using lemon juice in a henna mix has the opposite effect. Lemon juice mixes result in vivid, fiery results at first, but the color is known to oxidize to darker and darker shades over time. I’ve spoken to many people who loved their hennaed hair color at first, but found that it got much too dark over time. The most common mistakes, often used in conjunction, were a) using lemon juice; b) reapplying henna to the entire length of the hair; c) reapplying too often, and d) using heated styling tools. To learn about other causes of darkening and how to prevent it, read this article.

Highly acidic mixes will continue to oxidize after the initial couple of weeks, leading to increasingly dark results after several months or years.

As a rule of thumb, very low pH liquids will all do a similar thing with henna: Initial stains will be noticeably bright, and then the color will deepen continually over time. The more acidic the mix, the greater the difference between first rinse and final oxidation. Many people who use lemon juice may only be aware of the first part, and then later become upset that their hair no longer has that vivid brightness that it once did when they just began using henna. Additionally, the only effective way to lighten hennaed hair is to bleach it.

For a brighter, lighter result that does not oxidize, Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry fruit acid powder works really well. It is high in antioxidants that keep darkening at bay. Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino fruit acid powder also causes brighter results, and is very gentle on sensitive skin.

Some people (including me), are fully aware that lemon juice causes darker results over time, and use it for that purpose. But to be honest, there are much faster ways to push henna to a deep red without having to wait through the bright orange period. Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino fruit acid powder creates deep auburn results and is very gentle on the skin. Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose powder is high in anthocyanins, which gives a cooler tone to henna.

Henna does not fade over time. It darkens. Highly acidic mixes will darken more over time. Mixes that are high in antioxidants can prevent darkening.

Citrus Can Cause Photo-sensitivity

Citrus oils are phototoxic. They make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. This can result in sunburns in situations when one would not normally expect to be burned. Especially in the case of fresh-squeezed lemon juice, you may inadvertently cause photo-sensitivity to your scalp by using a henna mix with lemon juice. This is definitely the case with lime juice. You may have heard of people suffering reactions after getting a bit of margarita on themselves while enjoying the sun. This does happen.

On the other hand, henna has some great natural UV protective qualities, and your hair will provide some barrier between your scalp and the sun. In any case, if you have particularly photosensitive skin, or are sensitive to citrus juices and oils, you may want to consider using a different fruit acid.

What To Use Instead

Lemon juice will always be a staple in the henna world, but it’s always good to have options. As I mentioned before, there are numerous other fruit juices and fruit acid powders which will work just as well, or better, than lemon juice.

If you’re set on using lemon, consider diluting it. Full-strength lemon juice is more acidic than what is necessary to dye-release henna. As long as the liquid tastes mildly tart, it will work. Diluting also makes your bottle of lemon juice last longer, or saves you from having to squeeze several pounds of lemons.

If you are experiencing an irritated scalp, try one of the Kristalovino fruit acids, or apple juice. Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino is the gentlest of all of the Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powders, and makes henna shades darker for rich auburn and brunette shades. Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino is the second gentlest, and leaves results light and bright. Apple juice is mild, and will result in a tone that is neither too light nor dark, but can be sticky and make your mix smell boozy.

If you are looking for bright, coppery or fiery tones that stay bright over time, try Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry fruit acid powder, or pure cranberry juice. Both are high in antioxidants that prevent the henna color from darkening over time. If you opt for cranberry juice, make sure to get the real thing—many are a mixture of other juices, water, sugar, and some cranberry juice. 100% pure cranberry juice can be expensive, though.

Final Notes

Lemon juice is a great mixing liquid for some people; for others, it can cause issues. Be aware of this if you are new to mixing henna, or if you are mixing henna for someone else. If you are experiencing an itchy, irritated scalp, or if you notice that your hair color is getting too dark over time, consider using a different dye-release acid. You will very likely find that lemon juice is the culprit. Again, the same goes for lime, which is even more acidic and phototoxic than lemon. Lemon juice at full strength can be tolerated by some. Lime juice should always be diluted, and better yet, avoided.

If you have any questions about what acidic medium to use in your henna mix, feel free to comment below or contact Customer Service at www.Mehandi.com.

Author Rebecca Chou May 2018
Edited Maria Moore November 2022

Henna Glosses: Debunking Myths and Offering More Effective Alternatives.

In the henna for hair world, a “gloss” is usually a mixture of prepared henna and/or indigo paste diluted with conditioner, yogurt, aloe gel, coconut milk, or some other medium. The result is supposedly a more subtle color change along with “deep conditioning.” Glosses are extremely popular and attractive, especially to those who are new to henna. They seem to somehow be easier, less intimidating, and user-friendly. The idea of a subtle color change and killing two birds with one stone by mixing henna and conditioner seems wonderful…right?

              I’m sorry to burst your bubble. There are better ways to achieve both a subtle color change and conditioning. Glosses are a waste of good henna and your money. Because the diluting medium inhibits dye uptake, color results are temporary, and most of the conditioning benefits of henna are unavailable.  While they have their place in rare occasions, more often than not, there is a better alternative to the gloss. This article will explain some of the myths behind glosses, and offer better alternatives which will result in the same subtle color change, but with permanence and all of the benefits we love about henna.

A gloss is a mixture of plant dye paste and conditioner. The result of a gloss is not as saturated, nor as permanent.

Where Did the Gloss Come From?

For as long as henna has been used to color hair, the mixture has always involved henna and an acidic liquid. Oils, yogurt, milk, and other ingredients were sometimes included in these recipes, and the recipes were passed along. These uses became part of the mythology of “How people used henna back in the day.” Earlier in the history of The Henna Page and Ancient Sunrise®, we tinkered with and recommended methods for using glosses. These were always meant to be a quick, temporary fix, not the go-to method.  Over time, the use of the gloss grew, spread through natural beauty blogs and videos, other henna companies, and word of mouth within families and communities. Some companies now even sell oil-based bars containing henna, promising color and conditioning.

              If people have been adding all kinds of things to their mix for hundreds of years, it must be the correct way to do it, right? The desire to use natural beauty products sometimes comes with a desire to go back to a mythical time of purity: A time before commercialization brought about harmful chemicals, when humans were more intuitively connected with nature and all things healthy. Looking back on older methods and recipes seems to make sense. Sadly, this mythical time did not exist. People also once painted their faces with lead and brushed their teeth with urine.

              Past methods come shrouded in nostalgia, packed with folk remedies and wives’ tales, and lacking good science. We have science now! By systematically studying how these ingredients work at the molecular level, we can now determine the most effective methods, and come to the conclusion that adding certain ingredients into henna mixes renders the mix much less effective. An effective henna mix only requires quality henna powder, an acidic liquid, and an understanding of temperature and time. Oils, fats, silicones, and glycerins block dye molecules from binding to the hair strand. Much of the valuable benefits to henna are doing right down your drain.

“But, I love dyeing my hair and getting a deep conditioning treatment at the same time.”

Henna is an amazing conditioner. In addition to adding strength and shine to your hair, it re-balances moisture, reinforces the keratin cuticle, and has anti-fungal properties. Make it into the gloss, and you won’t get all of those amazing benefits at their full strength.

              There is an ongoing myth that henna is drying or damaging to the hair. This myth has contributed to the use of oils, conditioners, and other “moisturizing” ingredients in a henna mixture. The idea was that the addition of these ingredients would protect the hair from negative effects of henna. Some henna for hair products are made of poor quality henna, full of large plant particles and sand. Compound hennas contain metallic salts, PPD, and other additives that did nasty things to the hair. If you are using finely sifted, 100% pure BAQ henna, the idea of henna being drying or damaging is absolutely untrue.

Most earlier hennas available in the US were compound hennas, containing harmful additives. There are still compound hennas sold today, which claim to be pure. Always go with lab-tested henna!

              Some people report their hair feeling dry and unmanageable after using henna. This is because, when the paste is processing on your head, the low pH causes the outer keratin scales of the hair to temporarily lift, allowing the dye to enter more effectively. During the following days, as the dye oxidizes and settles into place, the hair will go back to normal. Rinsing with cool water and/or vinegar can smooth the cuticle down more quickly.

              There is nothing wrong with using a conditioning treatment after washing out your henna. Feel free to apply whatever you planned to mix into your henna, separately and after you have hennaed your hair. Many people find that it is not necessary, as henna is an effective enough conditioning treatment on its own.

“I’ve done it this way for ages, and it works for me.”

Many people begin with glosses when they start using henna, and find that they love the results. They continue to use the same method for several years. While they do get some color and conditioning benefit, without learning new and better methods, they never know how much better it could be! It’s like having a California roll for the first time and deciding that you love sushi, but never eating anything other than California rolls following that. (Okay, a bit of a stretched analogy, but I will personally fight you on the ways of proper sushi.)

              Try one of the methods I’ll describe later in this article. Henna, indigo, cassia, and fruit acid powders make natural hair coloring amazingly versatile, and you’ll find you can achieve nearly any natural hair color with the right mixture. You will find that skipping the conditioner gives you a much richer color that doesn’t fade, and longer-lasting strength and shine.

“I don’t want a huge color change.”

You don’t have to have one. At Ancient Sunrise®, we’ve mastered the art and science of formulating mixtures to suit every need. We work one-on-one with our customers to help them achieve their desired color. Very often, our customers simply want to cover their gray hair to match their natural color. If you want just a hint of red, or to darken your color one or two shades, that’s no problem at all. It can be done with the right mix of henna, indigo, and/or cassia.

“I like glosses because they’re easier to apply and rinse out.”

It is true that many henna for hair products contain henna that is poorly sifted and full of large particles that get tangled in the hair. If you have not yet tried Ancient Sunrise® products, you may be surprised by the difference. Ancient Sunrise® plant dye powders are finely sifted. Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Jasmine henna, Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo, and Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara cassia are the finest out of all of them, and great for those who have thick, curly, or textured hair, as well as those with delicate damaged hair.

              Indigo powder can be a little gritty, and this can be solved with a little CMC powder, which makes the paste much silkier without inhibiting the dye.

              If you are already using Ancient Sunrise® products and are still frustrated with application and washing, contact Customer Service. They have a number of tips and tricks that make the process much easier. For example, some prefer their paste thicker or thinner. Some work from the top of their head down, or vice versa. Some like to enlist a friend or significant other to help. When washing henna out, a “mermaid rinse” works very well. Soak and swish your hair in warm water to loosen out the majority of the paste, then shampoo and condition as normal. Sometimes massaging a handful of conditioner through your hair after the mermaid rinse helps the extra particles slip out. Again, there’s nothing wrong with using conditioners after henna; just don’t mix them in.

“What about indigo glosses?”

Indigo glosses are a mixture of a small amount of indigo paste and a diluting medium, usually conditioner. These are used to subtly darken or tone down hair that is too bright or light after a henna/indigo treatment, or if the indigo has faded from the hair over time. We recommend them occasionally, but they are best used as a temporary fix rather than a true method. The result is not permanent.

              If you used indigo in your mix but it did not bind effectively, leaving brassy roots, mix up a small amount of regular, full-strength indigo paste, dab it into the areas that need to be fixed, and rinse it out after a few minutes. If you have just dyed your hair and it looks too bright, wait a few days for the color to oxidize before trying to adjust it. It may settle out on its own.

              Indigo glosses can be avoided as you perfect your mix and technique. This may involve increasing the amount of indigo you use in your next mix, and thoroughly cleansing your hair prior to application.

Apply indigo paste, or a henna/indigo mixture to roots that came out too light.

Alternatives to Glosses

The first and most obvious alternative to the gloss is to simply omit the conditioner, and apply the henna mixture as is. The color results will be more vivid and permanent. Your hair will get the full power of the strengthening and conditioning properties of henna. If you have naturally darker hair, you do not need to worry about your result being too bright or red, as henna is translucent and cannot lighten the hair.

If you have a naturally lighter hair color and worry that henna will make your hair too red, mix it with cassia. A mixture of 1 part henna and 4 parts cassia will give light hair a warm, strawberry blonde glow. Both the henna and cassia will make your hair shiny and strong. You may also choose to play around with acids, or add a small amount of indigo if you don’t want the result to be too bright. This article goes into further detail.

You could try using cassia paste in place of conditioner. Mix cassia powder with distilled water, and combine it with your henna or henna/indigo paste. Cassia that has not been dye-released will impart very little color. It can dilute the strength of your other plant dyes without inhibiting uptake the way conditioner might.

Mohair dyed with cassia and henna in different proportions. The sample to the left is the original color.

If you are new to henna and are attracted to glosses because you are worried about having a permanent result you don’t like, instead of relying on the temporary nature of a gloss, strand-test a few different mixtures on hair that you’ve collected from your hairbrush or a trim, and use those to settle on a color, rather than using your head as a guinea pig.

Test some hair collected from your hair brush with a small amount of paste to determine the color result.

If you are using glosses because you want your color change to be temporary, then sure, a gloss may be the way to go. Henna is permanent when used properly, and can only be removed from the hair using lightening treatments.  You may want to try mixing up some zizyphus paste to use in place of conditioner in your gloss. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus spina christi powder is a natural cleanser and conditioner. Its natural plant waxes may prevent the henna from binding as successfully.

Conclusion

Glosses are overused. They gained popularity through the spread of some less-than-accurate information. More often than not, a full-strength mix of henna, indigo, and/or cassia will give you the same, or better results. It may require some recipe or technique adjustments, but we believe that you will be much happier with the color and condition of your hair after ditching glosses. You will not need to re-apply as frequently, saving money and time. If you need assistance, contact Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service via phone, email, or online chat.

Does it Dye Hair? The Official List

People have been using plants and other materials to change the color of their hair long before commercial hair dyes were invented. The resurgence in natural and DIY beauty has led to a long and strange list of ingredients being mixed up and put on the hair. Many of these are food items. Others are borrowed from natural fabric dyeing. However, just because something is natural and has a color does not mean that it will 1) bind permanently to the hair strand, and/or 2) be safe to use on the hair.

              Many plants which will dye fabric require simmering and/or being set with a mordant. Because one should not do either with the hair, it will not work the same way. Most foods are, well, best used as foods. Eat them, and you get nutrients and a happy tummy. Put them on your head, and you get a lot of food rinsed down the drain for very little effect.

              There are very, very few dyes that are capable of binding to the hair in a permanent manner. Out of these, there are fewer which are safe (Hint: if it is effective and safe, we probably sell it at Mehandi.com). At a molecular level, a dye needs a small enough molecule or a chemical reaction to break past the keratin layers on the surface of the hair strand, and then oxidize into a larger molecule that cannot easily escape back out of the hair, binding it there permanently. This is what oxidative (store-bought) dyes do.

Dyes like henna and cassia bind to the hair via a Michael addition, facilitated by the low pH environment of the paste. Despite having beautiful, vivid colors, most plants cannot dye the hair because the molecule is too large. Without simmering for long periods of time or the use of a mordant to chemically bind the dye, the color simply sits atop the hair and will wash right out.

              Below is a list, in alphabetical order, of the many things people attempt to use, either mixed into a henna treatment or on its own. Each item will be examined for the following questions: 1) Does it affect hair color? 2) Is the color change permanent? 3) Is it safe? Additionally, most will include explanations for how the ingredient came to exist in hair recipes if it is not safe or effective.

Amla

              Amla does not contain a dye. When used to dye-release henna, it affects the resulting color of the henna by muting brighter tones. It assists a successful indigo bind by temporarily loosening the hydrogen bonds in the hair, allowing more dye to enter. Real amla is safe. If an amla product claims to change the color of the hair, it may contain other ingredients, and may not be safe.

Beets

              Beets will stain your hands, change the color of your urine, and can dye fabric when simmered and used with a mordant. Because you do not want to simmer and use mordants on your hair, you cannot achieve a permanent stain using beets. It is safe but will do nothing for your hair.

Black Tea

              Many natural hair blogs claim that strong black tea will darken your hair. If it does, the result will be very subtle, and very temporary. Some people use black tea as their acidic liquid for henna, but it is generally not quite acidic enough for a good dye release. A strong brew of black tea may cause caffeine jitters when absorbed through the scalp. Relatively safe; not effective for hair coloring.

Blueberry

              On its own, blueberries or blueberry juice will not create a noticeable change in your hair color. Added to henna as a dye-releasing liquid, the anthocyanins in blueberry juice will add a subtle ash tone to the color to cool it. This effect may fade over time. It is safe, but subtle and not permanent. Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder is made from powdered purple aronia fruit, which is like a hardcore version of the blueberry.

Buxus (Katam)

              Buxus is mixed with henna in the same way that indigo is, to create soft brunette tones. It is safe. Here’s the problem: Buxus was produced in Yemen, which is under civil conflict. There are few if any producers of buxus left, and Yemen is not exporting goods to the US at this time. If you find anyone claiming to sell buxus, it is most likely a mixture of henna and indigo or some other type of counterfeit.

Calendula

              Calendula is a bright yellow flower. It is used as a natural fabric and food dye. It is sometimes used to give a golden tone to cheese and butter. Calendula will show up in an internet search for natural ways to dye your hair. Like so many other items on this list, calendula’s dye will not break into and bind to the keratin cuticle of your hair without the use of heat and mordants.

Carrot

              Carrot juice is delicious. Carrots are a good way to make friends with rabbits or horses. Despite their bright orange color, soaking your hair in carrot juice will not do much. Safe, but better eaten. Any color result that may occur will wash out.

Cassia

              Hooray! The first effective contestant on the list. Cassia Auriculata will dye light hair a golden wheat color. It provides similar benefits as henna. Not quite as strong or permanent as henna, cassia may need to be applied more often, or mixed with a small amount of henna for a more effective bind. Cassia is great for diluting henna or henna/indigo mixes to great vibrant fiery reds, or lighter browns. On dark hair, cassia will not cause a color change but is great for conditioning. Cassia is very safe.

Chamomile

              Chamomile shows up in natural beauty sites very often because it is supposed to naturally lighten hair. The instructions usually involve soaking hair in chamomile tea or spritzing the hair with tea in a spray bottle. Like lemon, some use it in their hair prior to going out into the sun. Chamomile seems to deliver very subtle, very slow results that appear if one’s hair is already blonde or light brown. If your hair is dark, no luck. If your hair is dyed with henna, chamomile will not remove the henna. With hair that is already light brown or blonde, it would take weeks of daily hair-soaking and dozens of tea bags to achieve a noticeable difference if any at all. Chamomile is not a strong enough acid to use for dye-releasing henna. It is safe, but drinking chamomile tea may make you sleepy.

Cherry

              Many people long to have hair the same color as black cherries. That deep, purple-red is gorgeous, and sadly, only achievable with chemical dyes. Cherry juice might be a good contestant for dye-release liquid, but because of its antioxidant and anthocyanin content, not because of its color. Cherries are safe, as long as you are not allergic, and remember to spit out the pits.

Cinnamon

              Cinnamon is another common ingredient in natural beauty recipes for lightening hair. It smells wonderful, but cinnamon is irritating to the skin. I once tried the cinnamon-and-honey hair mask out of curiosity, and it felt like I rubbed tiger balm all over my scalp. Like lemon, honey, and chamomile, if there is any effect at all, it would show up on hair that is already light, require several treatments, and be very subtle. Not entirely safe, and not very effective. Will do nothing to the color result of a henna mix. If you want to make your henna mix smell nice, try ginger or cardamom powder instead.

Coffee

              This is one of the most common items people ask about. Some henna sites still recommend mixing henna with strongly brewed black coffee. Coffee seems to temporarily darken the hair, but caffeine is transdermal and will cause jitters and headaches if you leave it on your scalp for several hours. You will also have to put up with the smell. Imagine breathing through a used coffee filter for three hours. A coffee “rinse” would do nothing. Do not put coffee in your mix. If you want to darken your henna, add a little indigo.

Dandelion

              Bright yellow flower. Fun for making wishes. Used in salads. See Calendula above.

Henna

Pure, BAQ henna is safe, effective, and permanent. But if you are reading this blog, you might know that by now. Feel free to read the other articles to learn all about how to use it. Henna allergies are extremely rare. Henna’s dye molecule binds to keratin and will not fade. Because henna is not well regulated, all henna is not equal. Make sure you know the difference between true henna and compound henna, which is unsafe and contains a number of additives.

Honey

              Honey produces small amounts of peroxide, which can bring out some highlights to hair that is already light. The effect is minimal. It will not do anything to dark hair. Do not add it to a henna mix; it will inhibit dye uptake. It is safe unless you are an infant, or allergic to honey. Honey is great with some peanut butter on toast. It is also nice in tea. In your hair, it is a sticky mess that won’t do much.

Indigo

Used in conjunction with henna, indigo creates permanent shades of brunette. On its own, it may dye lighter hair a gray-blue color, which may fade. Henna helps indigo bind permanently. It is safe. Some with mold allergies notice a reaction to indigo. Patch test beforehand if concerned, and avoid inhaling powder particles. Read more about indigo here.

Jagua

              Jagua is derived from the fruit, Genipa americana which grows in South America. Its juice has been used in body art to create deep blue stains on the skin. Jagua is extremely expensive. The amount of jagua juice needed to mix with 100g of henna powder would be over a hundred dollars. Not worth it. Jagua is also known to cause allergies in those who are allergic to certain fruits. Some distributors may sell products containing PPD claiming it is pure jagua. Verdict: Not for hair, expensive, and proceed with caution.

Kool-Aid

              Dyeing hair with powdered drink mixes is popular among young people because it is cheap, temporary, and can result in unnatural colors. The high concentration of food dyes can cause a temporary stain on lighter hair. It is relatively safe, but not permanent, and not necessarily “natural.” It will probably stain your clothes and pillowcase as it fades off. Adding it to henna would probably not do anything, as the lawsone would greatly overpower any food dye.

Lemon

              Lemon juice has been used to add highlights to blond hair. It works similarly to peroxide. You will not see much change in darker hair. It will not lighten hair that has been dyed with henna. When used as an acid in a henna mix, the low pH will actually cause the resulting stain to oxidize greatly over time, causing a darker color. Those who are sensitive to citrus may notice an itchy, bumpy, or red scalp when using henna mixed with lemon juice. It can also cause UV sensitivity. When used with henna, it is smart to dilute lemon juice with 3-4 parts distilled water.

Hibiscus

              This is another plant that is popular in natural beauty blogs. Hibiscus is a beautiful red flower with a sweet, tart flavor. The flowers are dried and sold whole and in powder form. According to those who recommend using it, hibiscus supposedly brings red hues to the hair. If effective, the result would be very temporary. Hibiscus is high in anthocyanins, so if there is any effect of it being mixed with henna, it would act more like Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder, or blueberry juice, cooling the henna color rather than adding red tones. Hibiscus makes for a delicious cold summer drink. Save it for that, instead.

Iron (rust)

              Some cultures have mixed henna in iron containers, and this recommendation has come through to blogs and natural sites today. Some sites recommend adding a few rusty nails (or any rusty iron item) into the henna if you do not have an iron pot. A low-pH liquid would react with the iron to create iron oxide, which may impart a dark color to the hair temporarily. You do not want minerals in your hair. Not only does mineral buildup inhibit dye uptake, but can cause the hair to become stiff and dry. This is why we recommend clarifying the hair before applying henna and using distilled water.

              Note: This is not to say that henna and metal should never mix. Henna can be mixed in stainless steel bowls, or with any run-of-the-mill spoon just fine.

Nettle

              Nettle has been recommended on some natural beauty sites claiming it will darken hair and stimulate growth. It can dye fabrics but requires simmering and mordants to do so. There will be little to no effect on hair. There are no studies that show significant effects on hair growth. While nettle can be eaten, or used for tea, harvesting nettle from the great outdoors can result in some nasty stings. 

Onion

              This is another one pulled from fabric dyeing. Onion skins can dye fabrics a lovely yellow color. It will not work on hair. Some claim that rinsing hair in water that has been boiled with onion or onion skin will promote hair growth. This claim has not been proven. Do yourself and others a favor, and do not put onions in your henna, or in your hair at all. You will end up smelling like onions for no reason.

Pomegranate

              Pomegranates have an absolutely beautiful color, and anyone who has opened one will know that the juice can stain your skin, clothes, and cutting board. It will not stay in your hair. There’s nothing wrong with using it as your dye-release liquid, other than expense. It is high in anthocyanins, so it would most likely work similarly to blueberry juice.

Raspberry

              See: Blueberry, Cherry, and Pomegranate. Safe, and decent for a dye-release liquid; will not dye hair.

Red Cabbage

              You may have done the experiment in science class where you use cabbage juice as a pH indicator. If not, it’s pretty cool. The purple liquid turns shades of pink when mixed with an acid, and blue to green when mixed with a base. Fabric dyers can use this to their advantage to create a variety of shades. I feel like a broken record by now but guess what. Works with simmering and a mordant; won’t work on hair.

Rhubarb

              Rhubarb supposedly adds a golden tone to light hair. It is recommended on natural beauty sites and is sometimes included in “herbal” or “natural” hair dye mixes. Despite its pretty, red stalks, rhubarb will not add red tones to the hair. It contains chrysophanic acid, the same molecule responsible for cassia’s golden results. However, rhubarb root creates a very vivid, unnatural yellow that isn’t generally desired as a hair color. In addition, the dye does not bind well and fades over time. Better saved for fabric dyeing and pies.

Rosemary

              Rosemary oil has long been recommended and used for hair growth and darkening hair. After scouring research databases, I found one clinical study which showed the effectiveness of rosemary oil against androgenetic alopecia, and none on hair darkening. Because only the abstract was available I could not make a determination on the soundness of the study. The claimed hair-growth effect is due to rosemary’s rubefacient quality. Rubefacients are by their nature, irritants. They stimulate circulation (redness) in the skin by dilating blood vessels. Do not put essential oils in henna. They dull the resulting color and can cause headaches.

Saffron

              Holy expense. Not only will it fail to alter your hair color, but a gram of real saffron can cost up to $25. It is the most expensive spice in the world, and counterfeit/adulterated saffron is common. Saffron rice is delicious. If you get your hands on some real saffron, make rice. Safe, expensive, and pointless for hair.

Sage

              Similar claims as Rosemary. Just like Rosemary, there is no definitive proof of sage’s ability to dye hair. Pretty safe. Good for clearing your home of ghouls and ghosties, or bad smells. Not effective for coloring hair.

Para-phenylenediamine (PPD)

              NOT SAFE. Para-phenylenediamine is the active ingredient in most commercial hair dyes and is highly sensitizing. Yes, it effectively colors hair. It is also known to cause serious allergic reactions. Sensitivity to PPD is increasing due to the popularity of “black henna” tattoos, which use a concentrated form of dye. As a coal tar derivative, it is not natural. Read more about it here, here, here, and here.

Most commercial hair dyes contain PPD. Even products labeled “natural” or claiming to be henna can have PPD.

Tomato

              If you’ve ever spilled pasta sauce or ketchup on your clothes, you were probably quite happy to find that the stain did not stay permanently. Soaking your hair in tomato juice is not an effective way to dye your hair, and like many other items on this list, any color result obtained will wash out. Tomatoes are acidic, so I can’t think of anything wrong with using tomato juice as a dye-release liquid, other than the fact that it would smell very strange. Better idea: enjoy a Bloody Mary while the henna is in your hair.

Turmeric

              Turmeric gives curry dishes their bright yellow color. It is used in fabric dyeing. When mixed with an alkaline solution, turmeric’s ochre yellow color turns vivid red. When turmeric paste is rubbed onto the skin, it will leave a yellow stain. Turmeric may temporarily stain light hair yellow but will wash out quickly. Be prepared to turn your tub and towels yellow. Safe; beautiful color; will not dye hair.

Turmeric was used to stain the skin yellow in this body art piece. It will fade away after a good scrub.

Walnut

              Black walnut powder has been sold on its own and in pre-mixed henna powders. It leads to darker results. Black walnut will dye hair but has a high risk of allergic reaction. Indigo will work just as well, if not better. Somewhat effective, but not as safe.

Woad

Mehandi.com no longer carries indigo for body art due to it being hard to resource.

              Woad is one of the most ancient dyes, used to dye fabrics “Celtic blue.”  It is speculated that the Celts also used it on their skin, as seen in the movie Braveheart. The process is extremely smelly, like rotten cabbages. The dye molecule, indigo, in woad is the same as it is in the indigo (indigofera tinctoria) plant. Just use indigo plant powder. It is easier to get your hands on and doesn’t have the stink. If you want to paint yourself blue.

Ancient Blue® is an indigo product that mimics the use of woad on the skin, without the cabbage stink.

Final Notes

All in all, it is best to keep a henna mix to its bare essentials and to keep food for eating purposes. Many foods do have nutrients that are beneficial for hair and skin, but in order to take advantage of them, you need to process them through your digestive system. Additionally, if you don’t already have these items laying around, going out and finding them only complicates and adds expense to your henna method, for no real pay-off.

              Please don’t hesitate to contact  Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service if you have any additional questions. If there is an item you’d like to see added to this list, please comment below.

Author: Rebecca Chou 2/23/18
Edited: Maria Moore 11/16/22

Cassia, Zizyphus, and Amla: Conditioners Without Color Change

Amla, Cassia, Zizyphus powder

Henna provides some great conditioning benefits, but these benefits go hand-in-hand with color change.  The lawsone molecule binds permanently to the keratin in your hair, providing strength and shine while dyeing the hair. That’s great for those who wish to dye and condition their hair simultaneously. But what if you’ve already achieved your desired color, and want to regularly condition without seeing the color darken? Continued application of henna can cause the hair to become a darker and darker color. Or, what if you have light or gray hair which you wish to keep the way it is?

              Ancient Sunrise® Cassia provides similar conditioning benefits as henna with little to minimal color change on darker hair colors. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi cleanses and conditions the hair with no color change at all. Repeated applications of henna can also cause curl pattern loosening for some. Some find that using Ancient Sunrise® Amla alone in the hair helps to bring back volume, while others find that cassia helps to restore their curls. This article will explain how to use Cassia, Zizyphus, and Amla powders as hair treatments that provide conditioning without color change.

The Plant Powders

Cassia Auriculata, Cassia Obovata, Zizyphus Spina Christi, and Amla (emblica officinalis) powders all work in different ways. Cassia works most similarly to henna. Its dye molecule, chrysophanol, binds to the hair much like henna’s lawsone molecule does. Cassia makes the hair shiny and strong, and for some, can restore the hair’s natural curl pattern. Cassia’s conditioning effects can last up to a month or longer. Zizyphus acts as a two-in-one cleanser/conditioner that adds a thin plant wax coating to the hair, protecting it from environmental effects, and giving the hair shine and strength. Zizyphus can be used weekly. Amla is not a conditioner as much as a hair treatment most useful for those who wish to give their hair extra body and bounce. Each of these powders has a unique process. Continue reading to learn the best ways to use them.

Cassia Obovata and Cassia Auriculata Powder

For Benefits Similar to Henna, and for Curls

Ancient Sunrise® Cassia is great if you love the way that henna makes your hair strong and shiny, but want to avoid repeating full-head henna treatments which may darken your color. Cassia can be used in one of two ways:

              For a quick conditioning treatment, mix Ancient Sunrise® Cassia powder with distilled water and apply immediately. Cover and leave it on the hair as long as desired (one hour is good). This is a good method for those who have light or gray hair and do not want a noticeable color change. This method will condition hair with little to no color change, but will not yield effects that are as strong or permanent as the method below.

              For a more effective, and longer-lasting conditioning treatment, mix cassia with a mildly acidic liquid or an Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powder and distilled water, and allow it to dye-release at room temperature for 8-12 hours just as you would with henna. Apply, cover, and leave in the hair for one hour to several hours. Those with darker hair will not see any color change. Lighter or gray hair will be dyed a golden tone.

Cassia Obovata dye molecule

              Ancient Sunrise® cassia, like Ancient Sunrise® henna, can be applied to either damp or dry hair. Ancient Sunrise® Clarity Cassia has a fine sift and is great for those with thin, delicate, and damaged hair.

              Important: Cassia’s dye molecule reacts poorly with minerals. The golden tone can become muddy and brown if you have mineral build-up in your hair. It is best to do a Rainwash treatment ahead of time for the best results.

              Cassia can be used as a conditioner once a month, or more frequently if desired. Its effects are not as permanent as henna; it is fine to apply a new treatment whenever you feel your hair needs it.

Cassia Auriculata has a weaker dye molecule than Cassia Obovata, but it is a great replacement. You can learn more about Cassia Auriculata here: http://www.hennaforhair.com/faq/Clarity_cassia-auriculata.pdf.

Zizyphus Spina Christi Powder

For Clean, Shiny Hair Protected Against the Elements

Zizyphus Spina Christi does not contain a dye molecule. Its natural saponins and plant wax clean the hair and protect it with a thin, flexible layer. Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus is perfect for those who want absolutely no color change. Use zizyphus before and/or during a trip to the beach or the great outdoors. It protects the hair from salt water, wind, and dirt. Some notice that they can wash their hair less frequently when using zizyphus (Note: Please wash your hair once it feels greasy, or smells bad.) It is quicker and easier to use than cassia, but its effects are washed away after a number of shampoos.

              To use Zizyphus Spina Christi powder, mix a heaping tablespoon of powder with distilled water until it becomes a fluffy paste. Bring this paste to the shower with you, and set it nearby, but away from the direct stream of water. Wet your hair, and apply the paste from scalp to ends, massaging your scalp. You may need to work in sections. Leave the paste in your hair for several minutes, then rinse. If you are having trouble rinsing the paste completely, use a small amount of conditioner or a vinegar rinse to give your hair more slip. Dry and style as usual. You can use zizyphus once or twice a week. More often may cause a build-up of the coating, causing your hair to feel stiff or waxy.

              As zizyphus creates a hydrophobic barrier over the hair, make sure to wash your hair with a normal detergent shampoo prior to applying a plant powder dye to ensure effective dye uptake.

Important: If you are sensitive to latex, conduct a patch test before using zizyphus. Those with latex allergies often experience a cross-reaction when using zizyphus.

              Read more about Zizyphus Spina Christi here.

Amla (Emblica Officinalis) Powder

For Fluffy, Voluminous Hair

As noted earlier, amla is not necessarily a conditioner in the same sense as cassia and zizyphus are. It is acidic, and therefore may be drying for some. When used in a plant dye mix, amla can prevent the curl loss that sometimes occurs with henna. On its own, amla can give the hair more volume and bounce. It does this by temporarily loosening the hydrogen bonds in keratin, allowing the hair to be reshaped.

Amla powder

              Mix Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder with distilled water into a thin paste. It does not have to be as thick as henna. Apply from roots to ends, cover, and leave in for 10 minutes. Rinse, and set towel-dry hair in a braid, curlers, or another heatless curl method. When the hair is dry, it will be fuller and fluffier.

              Ancient Sunrise® Amla can be used as an acid to dye-release cassia. Mix 25g amla for every 100g cassia, and add distilled water. Follow the instructions above for applying and processing cassia.

              Read more about various uses for Ancient Sunrise® Amla Powder here.

Final Notes

Repeated applications of any of these methods will show more improvement in hair quality over time. Conditioning protects the hair against damage, and balances moisture retention, allowing the hair to stay stronger longer. For best results, use Cassia monthly (or more often if desired), Zizyphus weekly, and Amla whenever you wish to add some temporary oomph to your hair. These methods can all be used on hair that has been treated with plant dyes, as well as hair that has not.

If you have any additional questions about using these products to add strength, shine, and body to your hair, feel free to contact a Customer Service Representative via phone, email, or online chat.

Author: Rebecca Chou
Updated by Maria Moore 11/16/22

How to Prepare Your Hair Before Using Henna

People frequently ask what they should or should not do to their hair before applying henna. Does hair need to be clean, or left unwashed? Can it have conditioner on it? Should it be wet or dry? As henna works differently from conventional hair dyes and treatments, these questions are valid. This article will explain the best ways to prepare your hair for your henna treatment to obtain the best results.

First of all, hair should definitely be clean. But “clean” means several things. For henna and plant dye mixtures, it means, 1) free of dirt; 2) free of oils, both natural and added; and 3) free of mineral build-up. Dirt, oil, and mineral build-up all create barriers that prevent the dye from binding properly to the hair strand, for the best coverage and permanence, it will be important to start with squeaky-clean hair. Second, it is important to avoid adding oils or conditioning products to the hair prior to using henna, as they can inhibit dye uptake. Finally, hair can be either damp or dry when applying henna, whatever makes the hair easier to separate into sections for application. Continue reading to learn more about how to prep your hair and why.

Remove Dirt

When left unwashed, hair collects dirt and pollutants from the environment, as well as dead skin and materials excreted through the sweat glands. Combined with the body’s natural oils and heat, the hair becomes a perfect playground for bacteria and microbes.

              While henna has anti-microbial properties, it does not necessarily make for the best hair cleanser. Henna is best known for its coloring and strengthening properties, which come from the dye molecule, lawsone. Dirty hair does not allow for as much dye uptake as clean hair, therefore limiting the benefits. No one wants to go through the process of applying henna and leaving it on for several hours just to see that their hair was not colored sufficiently.

              The simplest way to remove dirt is with a standard detergent shampoo. A clarifying shampoo would be even better. Shampoo bars, natural shampoos, and shampoo alternatives may not effectively clean the hair of dirt and oil, and may actually leave a residue which creates an additional barrier. Baking soda does not clear out sebum as effectively as shampoo, and may interact negatively with dye molecules.

              Ancient Sunrise® shampoo bars and Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi powder are great cleansers for any time other than right before henna. The shampoo bars are oil-based, and Zizyphus leaves a natural waxy coating on the hair. If you use either of these, it is recommended to wash your hair with a regular detergent or clarifying shampoo to remove any residue.

Remove Oil

While it is important to wash away the dirt and oil that naturally accumulates in the hair, it is equally important to avoid applying any additional oils. If you use oils or conditioners, these need to be washed out.

              Indigo is particularly sensitive to barriers such as oil, and will not bind as successfully unless the hair is completely clean. Those who have particularly resistant hair may want to try washing their roots with a few drops of dish soap. Dish soap is a strong detergent that will strip out any oils and temporarily rough up the cuticle to allow for better dye penetration.

Remove Mineral Build-up

Minerals from tap water accumulate in the hair over time. They can cause the hair to feel drier and more brittle, prevent dye uptake, and affect the color. Hennaed hair will darken with mineral build-up. Cassia can react with minerals in the hair, turning the hair muddy-colored or greenish rather than golden.

              Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment is great to use prior to henna treatments, and regularly to keep the hair bright and soft. Those who live in areas with hard water will notice the effect of minerals more quickly and will need to clean their hair of mineral build-up more often. All tap water contains some level of mineral content, so Rainwash is always a safe bet, no matter what type of water you have.

              Rainwash comes in powder form. Mix it with distilled water until it thickens into a gel consistency. Apply throughout the hair, wrap the hair with plastic, and leave it in for 15-40 minutes. A deep cleanse will require forty minutes, while fifteen is enough if you are using the product regularly. During this time, the product is dissolving minerals out of the hair, and it is normal to notice a metallic or sulfur smell. Rinse well. Using a dab of shampoo will ensure that all of the gel and minerals are thoroughly rinsed out.

Avoid Conditioner and Oils

For best dye results, it is important to skip the conditioner before applying henna. As mentioned before, oils create a barrier and prevent the dye from binding properly to the hair.  The glycerin and silicone compounds in conditioning products do the same.

              Some people are concerned that their hair will be difficult to manage without conditioner. A vinegar rinse can help to keep the hair slippery enough to work with. Do this as the last step after using Rainwash and shampoo. Rinsing the hair with cool water can also help the hair become smoother.

Wet or Dry?

Finally, people commonly ask whether to apply henna to wet or dry hair. Either way is fine; whatever makes your hair easier to separate into sections. Hair should be at least towel-dry, or the paste is apt to get thin and runny once it is on. Also, be aware that hair is more fragile and prone to stretching while wet.

Best Practice

Putting all of this information together, here is the best way to prepare your hair before henna.

1. Mix and apply Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash according to the instructions.

2. After leaving the Rainwash mixture in your hair for the recommended amount of time, rinse your hair and use a detergent or clarifying shampoo.

3. For extra oily or dye-resistant hair, use a few drops of dish soap.

4. Remember not to use conditioner.

5. If skipping conditioner makes your hair unmanageable, rinse your hair with diluted vinegar and cool water to give it extra slip.

6. Dry your hair to the point where it is no longer dripping. Damp or fully dry hair is fine.

7. It is best to do all of this right before applying henna, rather than the day or evening before.

When Doing a Two-step Process for Black Hair, or Re-applying a Mix

The above information applies to using henna and indigo in two separate steps, or any time when another mix is used shortly after the first one, such as in the case of missed spots or a result that is too light.

              It is especially important that the hair is clean and free of oils before applying indigo. If you are applying both steps of a two-step process on the same day, simply rinse and shampoo out the henna paste, towel- or blow-dry your hair, and apply the indigo. Indigo can be applied up to 48 hours after rinsing henna; if you plan to wait, it is important to wash your hair again right before you apply indigo.

              As a general rule of thumb, any time you plan to apply a plant dye mixture to your hair, it is best to have it as clean as possible immediately prior to application.

If you have any additional questions, don’t hesitate to contact Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service via phone, email, or online chat at www.mehandi.com.

Twelve Ways to Prevent Hair Damage

Human hair is a complex thing. Each strand consists of several layers which contribute to the structure, shape, and color of the hair. The outer layers are made of several tiny keratin scales (cuticles), which overlap like shingles. The core (cortex) of the hair strand consists of bundles of long, thin cells that contain melanin, the hair’s natural pigments. The hair also contains lipids, or fats, which balance moisture. Additional lipids are deposited onto the surface of the hair via the scalp’s sebaceous glands.

Healthy hair does pretty well at maintaining its own moisture levels. The sebum and keratin on the surface of the hair provide a hydrophobic barrier to prevent excess water from entering the cortex. It may sound counter-intuitive, but too much water is not good for the hair. If water enters the center of the hair strand, the cortex swells and the overall structure of the hair weakens. This is why hair becomes more stretchy when wet. Healthy hair will stretch to an extent, and bounce back. Hair that has been damaged will remain stretched, and break if stretched too far.

On the other hand, if the cortex is completely depleted of moisture, the hair becomes brittle, and breaks. Think of the cortex like a bundle of al-dente pasta. If it soaks up too much water, it becomes mushy and unstable. If it is desiccated, it becomes brittle and snaps.

Hair is made of a bundles of cortical cells containing melanin, surrounded by keratin scales.

Maintaining healthy hair requires keeping the keratin layers as intact as possible. When new hair growth exits the scalp, it has several layers of keratin cuticles which are tight and flat. Normal weathering causes the cuticles to lift, then chip away. If most or all of the layers erode, the cortex is exposed, and it unravels like the end of a rope. This is what causes split ends, also known as trichoschisis. There is no way to “fix” split ends, except to trim them away with professional shears (regular scissors can cause split ends). You cannot glue the cortex back together and put a new coating of keratin over it. Maintaining healthy hair is all about being proactive, not reactive. There is nothing that can reverse damage once it has occurred.

When keratin cuticles are entirely weathered away, the cortical cells are exposed and eventually split.

The biggest outside threats to hair health are friction and pulling (especially when the hair is wet), heat, UV exposure, and chemical processes. Friction causes the cuticles to lift, making the surface of each strand rougher. Strands then catch on each other, causing tangles. Lifted cuticles are like open doors for water to pass in and out. This is why damaged hair is stretchy and mushy when wet, and brittle when dry.

Heat drys out the hair and causes air pockets within the hair strands to expand. UV radiation breaks down melanin cells and melts the hair’s cortex, making it porous and brittle. Lightening agents, oxidative dyes, perms, and relaxer all use chemicals to break through the keratin layer to permanently alter the cortex to deposit dye, destroy melanin cells, or force the hair into a new shape. This creates weakness in both the internal and external structure of the hair.

While some weathering is normal and expected, there are many ways to reduce the amount of day-to-day damage. Here are a few ways to keep your hair happy and silky.

1. Squeeze and Wrap; Don’t Rub.

After showering or bathing, you might be tempted to grab a towel and rub it all over your head, or rub your hair between your towel like you are trying to start a fire with a stick. Don’t do it. Your hair is extra fragile when wet, and this amount of friction will add up in the long term. Repeated towel drying contributes to the weathering of the keratin scales that form the protective outer layers of the hair. Over time, this will lead to split ends [1].

Instead, gently press or squeeze your hair with the towel. Wrap your hair with the towel and allow it to gradually absorb the water out of your hair. Or gently shake the ends of your hair to flick away water droplets.

2. Don’t Brush Wet Hair Without the Right Tools.

This is similar to towel-drying the hair. Brushing, towel drying, and any form of friction on wet hair causes keratin cuticles to shed. Wet hair has reduced tensile strength, meaning it is more prone to stretching and snapping than dry hair. A study found that using a conditioning shampoo, in comparison to non-conditioning shampoos, reduced the amount of cuticle loss during wet hair combing [2]. This would make sense, as shampoos cleanse away the natural lipid layer of the hair, and lift the cuticle, increasing friction.

 If you must comb your hair while it is wet, make sure the hair is conditioned, and use a wide-toothed comb, or a brush specially made for use on wet hair. Using a brush or comb made to be used on wet hair can be incredibly helpful. The tines and bristles are designed to prevent pulling and tugging, thus causing less friction. Work from the ends of your hair to your roots. Do not pull on a tangle. This will cause your hair to snap. Work out the knot from the bottom up.

Hair and drum skins are both made of keratin. Kitty’s drum got wet and it wouldn’t play anymore. So kitty tightened it. But when the skin dried, it tore. Oops! Poor kitty. Shouldn’t have stretched a wet drum.

3. Keep Your Hair Up

Loosely braiding your hair or keeping it in a twist protects it from friction and tangles during the day. This is especially helpful if you have long hair and it’s a windy day. Just be sure not to wrap hair ties too tightly, or force pins into a tight bun.  This can cause stress on the hair. Pulling the hair too tightly into ponytails, braids, or twists can cause hair to pull out at the root. Over the course of time, this can lead to traction alopecia. 

(Writer’s note: Back when I had long hair, I was a big fan of the octopus clip. It securely holds the hair up in a bun without pinching, or being too tight.  Spellstone combs and barrettes are also wonderful, and styles are available for every hair type.)

 Spellstone hair ornaments are made with ethically harvested water buffalo horn or bone.

4. Avoid UV exposure

Hair is susceptible to UV damage. When hair becomes lighter in the summer, the melanin cells within the cortex are actually being destroyed by UV rays. There are two basic types of melanin n the hair. There are what provide the hair’s natural pigment. Pheomelanin is much more sensitive to UV radiation than eumelanin. Blonde, and red hair contains less eumelanin and more pheomelanin. When pheomelanin becomes degraded, UV exposure will eventually melt the hair’s core, causing the hair to become weak and brittle [3], [4].

The natural oils, or integral lipids, that exist within the hair fiber are also affected by UV radiation. Overexposure decreases these lipids, which exist to moisturize the hair and contribute to its flexibility. Over time, this leads to increased porosity, desiccation, and brittleness. 

Covering the hair, and/or using henna protects against sun damage. More on henna in # 8.

5. Protect Your Hair While You Sleep

If you toss and turn in your sleep, cotton and synthetic fabrics can cause your hair to tangle. If you prefer to shower at night, you’ll probably wake up and fight your bedhead with brushes and products, damaging it further in the process.  Wrapping your hair in a silk scarf or using a silk pillowcase can decrease bedhead and damage.

Silk is very breathable and decreases friction. If you sweat during your sleep, silk is cooler and allows moisture to evaporate more quickly, keeping your hair drier. Just make sure you’re looking for actual silk, not a polyester satin, which can cause static and tangling.

6. Know How Often to Wash Your Hair

Each person produces a different amount of sebum. These oils protect and moisturize the skin and hair. However, too much sebum will become waxy, drawing dirt and dead skin cells, and clogging pores. Some people have naturally oily skin, and need to wash their hair every day. Others do so less frequently. If you have dry skin, or produce little sebum at the scalp, washing your hair too frequently, or washing with harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate might strip out the lipids from your hair and lift the cuticles. Shampooing dries the hair shaft and increases static and friction. Conditioning is meant to artificially restore lost lipids and smooth the cuticle layer.

If you have long hair, be aware that sebum gradually spreads from the scalp to the ends; the ends are drier than the roots. Oftentimes, it is only necessary to shampoo the scalp. The product that runs down the length of your hair while rinsing is enough to cleanse it without without completely stripping the lipids. Use conditioner in the opposite way. Apply only to the ends of the hair to avoid heaviness and buildup at the roots. It is better wash hair with cool water. Hot water can raise the cuticles, causing roughness and dryness. Cool water keeps the cuticle closed.

Hair has both surface lipids and integral lipids. In other words, there are oils that coat the hair strand, and oils that exist within the hair strand. Both contribute to the moisture and protection of the hair. Integral lipids can vary with a person’s ethnicity. While Asians have higher integral lipid levels, people of Caucasian and African descent have lower amounts of integral lipids. Over-shampooing can strip out integral lipids and lead to desiccation and breakage. UV exposure and chemical processes can also destroy integral lipids.

The consensus is in. The vast majority of dermatologists and hair experts agree that dry shampoo causes your hair more harm than good. The ingredients in dry shampoo absorb oil, giving the hair volume and making it look less greasy, but all of this just stays in the hair. The buildup of sebum and dry shampoo can eventually clog pores, causing infections. It can also lead to hair loss, as infected follicles cause the hair to shed. Dermatologists recommend using dry shampoo no more than twice a week.

7. Put Down the Dry Shampoo and Back Away

Microorganisms love munching away at sebum buildup, dead skin cells, and dirt. Dry shampoo creates a great environment for them.

8. Moisturizing Products May Be Making Things Worse

Hair products use a variety of emollients and humectants to make the hair seem smoother and more moisturized. Not all of them work in the same way. Glycerin, or glycol, products draw moisture from the surrounding environment. This is find when there is humidity in the air. In dry environments, the product will actually draw moisture out of the hair.

Some ingredients form a barrier, preventing water from entering or exiting. Because damaged hair is particularly weak when wet, it needs to be able to get rid of the excess water in the cortex. Products that coat the hair in this way keeps the hair in a weaker state.

Silicone ingredients, like dimethicone, mask hair damage by filling and smoothing the surface of the hair with a slippery coating. Decreasing friction prevents future damage, but -cones inhibit the passage of moisture in and out of the hair. If it builds up, it acts similarly to sebum, drawing dirt and dead skin cells.

Dimethicone and similar ingredients coat the hair with a low-friction layer, but do not mend damage.

Overuse of conditioners or oils can lead to a vicious cycle of worsening hair condition. The product coats the hair and prevents moisture from entering, causing the hair to dry. People then try to  correct or compensate for the dryness by using more and more conditioning treatments.

Hair needs to be able to retain the proper amount of water and lipids. Too much moisture leaves the hair weak and weighed down. Too little, and the hair becomes brittle. Henna, cassia, and zizyphus can help the hair maintain its moisture levels more effectively. Continue reading to learn how.

9. Limit Chemical Processes

Lightening agents, oxidative dyes, perms, and relaxers all involve chemically altering the structure of the hair. These processes destroy both the outer cuticles and the inner cortex of the hair strand in order to change the hair’s color or shape. This increases the hair’s porosity and decreases its strength and elasticity, leaving it vulnerable to breakage. A study by Robinson found that, while virgin hair exhibited progressive weathering root to tip, only hair that had been chemically processed showed patterns of fiber splitting at the mid-sections of the hair strand [1]. Cuticles were eroded until the cortical fibers were exposed, which then began to fragment. This type of damage leads to hair breaking off at any point in the length, not only the ends.

Bleaching the hair destroys the structural disulfide bonds in the keratin cuticle, and oxidizes the melanin within the cortex of the hair. Oxidative hair dyes also work by breaking these bonds so that dye molecules can enter the cortex, where they oxidize into larger molecules that cannot escape back out from the keratin layers. Hydrogen peroxide or hydrogen persulfate are used to break the keratin bonds to allow the bleach or dye to enter the cortex [4].

Perms and relaxers denature the disulfide bonds in order to alter the hair’s shape, using extremely alkaline chemicals such as ammonium thioglycollate, sodium hydroxide, and guanidine hydroxide [3], [4]. These processes all break down the hair’s hydrophobic barrier and increase softening and swelling of the hair fiber. The hair is then especially vulnerable to breakage from brushing and other sources of friction.

All of the tips discussed above can prevent further damage, but nothing can reverse hair damage. It is best to avoid chemical processes altogether; however, if you choose to do so, it is best to go to a certified stylist rather than attempting it at home. Stylists know how the correct products and techniques to use to avoid unnecessary damage. Products used in salons are often safer and gentler for the hair because they are regulated more strictly than products sold for at-home use.

10. Limit Heat Styling

Curlers and flat irons apply high heat directly to the hair in order to temporarily alter its shape. Because hair is naturally porous to some degree, there are tiny pockets within every hair strand. Damaged hair is more porous. Heat can cause the moisture within the pockets to expand, forming bubbles in the hair strand [4]. Long and frequent use of hair dryers can cause the “bubble hair” effect, as well.

Heat creates a low humidity environment which causes moisture to evaporate rapidly. This leads to desiccation, static, and structural damage [5], [6]. Interestingly enough, hair shows increased structural damage from heat if the it was initially wet, rather than dry; however, heat applied to dry hair causes signs of chemical damage as well as structural damage. One study suggests that using ethanol, or solvent-based protecting sprays prior to heat treatments is more effective than water-based sprays [5].  Better yet, skip the heat altogether.

Replace curling irons with no-heat curling methods. Allow hair to air dry most of the way, and finish it off with a hair dryer on a low setting. People with particularly damaged or porous hair have a dilemma. While drying the hair with a blow-dryer can be damaging, leaving the hair wet for long periods of time may also lead to damage [6]. It will be up to the individual to monitor their hair’s health and moderate their techniques. Gentle towel drying and a hair dryer on the cool setting may be the best option.

Heat caused bubbles to form in the hair shaft.
Source: Monselise, Assaf, David E. Cohen, Rita Wanser, and Jerry Shapiro. “What ages hair?.” International journal of women’s dermatology 3, no. 1 Suppl (2017): S52.

11. Condition with Ancient Sunrise® Henna or Cassia

The dye molecules in henna and cassia bind to keratin on the surface layers of the hair without coating it. This adds to the structural integrity of the hair strand. Porous, damaged hair becomes smoother and better at retaining proper moisture levels. Hair that stretches too much becomes more resilient. Henna and cassia provide long-lasting shine that doesn’t wash out, unlike conditioners.

Henna is permanent, and dyes hair red. When used with indigo, it dyes hair shades of brunette to black. Cassia provides a translucent golden dye on light hair, and no color change on darker hair. Cassia can be used without dye release to condition hair with minimal color change.

Henna also provides natural UV protection. It does this by reflecting and absorbing at the surface of the hair before it can penetrate to the cortex. This inhibits the degradation of melanin cells.

12. Cleanse and Condition with Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus

Zizyphus spina christi makes for a wonderful 2-in-1 cleansing and conditioning treatment. Unlike henna and cassia, it has no dye. Zizyphus powder contains natural saponins and plant waxes. It gently cleans the hair without stripping it, and a thin layer of plant wax restores the hair’s hydrophobic barrier while providing shine. It is especially great for thin, weak, and damaged hair because it provides thickness and strength, and protects hair from excess water absorption. Zizyphus is great to use before traveling, as it protects the hair from wind and salt water. To learn more about how to use zizyphus, read this article and visit this page on Henna for Hair.

References

[1] Robinson, V. N. E. “A study of damaged hair.” J Soc Cosmet Chem 27 (1976): 155-161.

[2] Sandhu, Sukhvinder S., and Ram Ramachandran. “A simple and sensitive method using protein loss measurements to evaluate damage to human hair.” J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem 46 (1995): 39-52.

[3] Sinclair, Rodney D. “Healthy hair: what is it?.” In Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings, vol. 12, no. 2, pp. 2-5. Elsevier, 2007.

[4] Monselise, Assaf, David E. Cohen, Rita Wanser, and Jerry Shapiro. “What ages hair?.” International journal of women’s dermatology 3, no. 1 Suppl (2017): S52.

[5] Christian, Paul, Nigel Winsey, Marie Whatmough, and Paul A. Cornwell. “The effects of water on heat-styling damage.” Journal of cosmetic science 62, no. 1 (2011): 15.

[6] Lee, Yoonhee, Youn-Duk Kim, Hye-Jin Hyun, Long-quan Pi, Xinghai Jin, and Won-Soo Lee. “Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer.” Annals of dermatology 23, no. 4 (2011): 455-462.

Author: Rebecca Chou November 2017
Edited: Maria Moore September 2022

How to Measure Ancient Sunrise® Plant Dye and Fruit Acid Powders

When using a mix of plant dye powders and fruit acids, it can become tricky to determine how much to use, and how to measure it all out. Using Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair is already more cost-effective than conventional boxed dyes or visits to the salon, but it’s always nice to cut down on waste. While henna and cassia pastes can be frozen for later use, mixes containing indigo cannot. Therefore, it is useful to mix just enough paste, and keep the rest of the powders sealed and dry.

This article will help you determine how much plant powder you’ll need to mix, how to measure powders with teaspoons and tablespoons, and how to determine the right amount of fruit acid powder to dye-release your henna and/or cassia.

If you are new to using henna for hair, be sure to read the Henna 101 series on this blog.

How much plant dye powder do I need for my hair?

Before mixing, you first need to determine how much total plant dye powder you’ll need in order to create enough paste to dye your hair. This depends on the length and thickness of your hair. Knowing how much powder to use in your mix will become easier after you have used henna for a while.

If you are just starting, if have recently cut your hair, or if you are returning to henna after a long period of hair growth, it is always better to mix more rather than less. Below is a chart that can help you estimate how much you might need. Because each head of hair is unique, this is not exact, and meant to be used as a general guideline. If you end up with henna/cassia paste left over, stick it in the freezer for future touch-ups. Indigo dye will not work once it has been frozen. If there is indigo in your mix, make note of how much was left over, dump the paste, and adjust your measurements next time.

 Thin, straight hairAverage hairThick or curly hair
1-2” roots30-50g50-75g100g or more
Chin length75-100g100-150g200g or more
Shoulder length100-150g200-250g300g or more
2-3” below shoulder200-250g250-300g400g or more
Mid back250-300g350-400g500g or more
Waist length400-500g500-600g600g or more

Keep in mind that the thickness of the paste will affect how much hair will be covered. You will want to mix your paste to the consistency of whipped sour cream, so that it drops off in a dollop if you hold a spoonful upside-down. If you mix a thicker paste, you will need more powder.

The above chart is also based on a thorough, thick application of paste. Some people choose to apply more sparingly. Keep in mind that doing so will require less paste, but may affect color and coverage.

A whole lot of hair needs a whole lot of paste. This is about 500g of henna for waist-length hair.

How do I measure plant dye powders without a scale?

Henna, cassia, and/or indigo mixes are based on ratios of their gram measurements. All of the plant powders come in 100g packets. If you do not need the entire packet, you can measure out your necessary amount, and seal up the rest of the powder for later use. If you have a kitchen scale, measuring the amount you need is pretty easy. Just determine how much powder in grams you’ll need for your particular mix, and divide. If you do not have a scale, you can convert grams into teaspoons, tablespoons, and cups.

This conversion is different for each powder, because the weight and density of the powders vary. Just as a cup of feathers and a cup of marbles would have different weights, so do henna, cassia, and indigo. Below is a chart with the most common gram amounts and their volume conversions. This is based on US measurements.

Key
tsp = teaspoon
T = tablespoon 
3 teaspoons = 1 tablespoon
2 tablespoons = 1/8 cup
16 tablespoons = 1 cup

 10g12.5g25g50g100g
Henna1.5 T; or 1T +1 ½ tspJust under 2TJust under ¼ cup7T;3/4cup + 2T; or one full packet
Cassia1T + 2tspJust over 2TJust under 4T + 1tsp½ cup + 1tsp1 cup + 2tsp; or one full packet
Indigo2T2.5T; or 2T + 1.5tsp5T10T; or ½ cup + 2T1 ¼ cup, or one full packet

How much fruit acid do I need?

Ancient Sunrise® offers a variety of fruit acid powders to use in place of a fruit juice or mildly acidic liquid. Just mix the fruit acid powder into your henna/cassia, add distilled water, and let the paste dye-release.

If you use Ancient Sunrise® fruit acid powder, just add distilled water! No fruit juice necessary.

            The amount of fruit acid powder you need depends on the amount of henna/cassia you are using, and the type of fruit acid powders. Ancient Sunrise® offers single-use packets of all of the plant powders, which are each pre-measured to contain enough fruit acid powder for 100g henna or cassia. If you need less than that, or if you have ordered a bulk container of a fruit acid, you’ll need to know how to measure the right amount.

Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino, Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino, and Citric Acid are all very easy. You will need 1tsp per 100g henna/cassia. If you are using indigo, remember that the amount of acid powder you needs is based only on how much henna and/or cassia you are using, not your total amount of plant powder.

Enough for 12.5g henna/cassiaEnough for 25g henna/cassiaEnough for 50g henna/cassiaEnough for 100g henna/cassia
A good pinch; or 1/8 tsp¼ tsp½ tsp1 tsp

Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose, and Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder all require 25g per every 100g henna/cassia. Like plant dye powders, they vary by weight. The chart below shows weight-to-volume conversions

3.125g 6.25g 12.5g 25g
Enough for 12.5g henna/cassiaEnough for 25g henna/cassiaEnough for 50g henna/cassiaEnough for 100g henna/cassia
Ancient Sunrise® CopperberryJust under 1 tsp½ T, or 1 ½ tsp1T2T + ¼ tsp
Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall RoseJust over 1 tspJust under 1T1.5T3T
Ancient Sunrise® Amla1tspJust over 2 tsp1 ½ T; or 1T + 1 ½ tsp2T + 2tsp

Final Notes

If you’re concerned about getting your plant dye measurements perfectly right, don’t worry. A few grams either way will not affect your color very much, especially with larger mixes. If you are only mixing enough for a root touch-up on thin hair, you may have to be just a tad more precise.

            Fruit acid powders also have some wiggle-room, but it’s generally better to have a little too much rather than not enough. Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino and Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino are particularly gentle, and therefore quite forgiving if over-measured.

            If all of this made things more confusing instead of clearing things up, not to worry. Ancient Sunrise® offers pre-measured kits for the most common hair colors. Most kits contain enough to cover shoulder-length hair of average thickness.  You can also contact customer service directly and ask them to help you determine the measurements for your mix and hair length. If you are placing an order, ask nicely, and they’ll write your recipe on the packing slip.

            Contact Customer Service via phone, chat, or email if you have any additional questions.

PPD Sensitization in Men: Unique Risks and Gendered Behavior

Introduction

Para-phenyelenediamine (PPD) is one of the most common allergens in cosmetics. While genetics can increase chances of allergy, anyone can develop a PPD allergy. High concentrations and repeated exposure increase the likelihood of becoming sensitized. Basic information about PPD is covered in an earlier article, What You Need to Know About Para-Phenylenediamine.

 Occupations that involve repeated exposure to PPD, such as hair stylists, and fur and textile workers, show higher rates of employees with PPD sensitization [13]. Outside of occupation-related sensitization, the average person is sensitized to PPD through a black henna tattoo, or through the use of hair dye. Prevalence rates of PPD sensitization are about 6.2% in North America, 4% in Europe, and 4.3% in Asia [1]. Overall, sensitization rates appear to be increasing over time [2]. Rates are higher in populations with darker hair, as dark hair dyes contain higher PPD concentrations.  Rates of sensitization are also higher in countries where “black henna” is commonly used in place of traditional henna.

PPD sensitization rates also vary between genders. Both body art and the use of hair dye are gendered behaviors; more women participate than men. This leads some to presume that PPD sensitization is more of a concern for women. While it is true that, overall, a higher percentage of women have PPD sensitization than men, it is important to discuss issues specific to men’s self-grooming and help-seeking behaviors that put the male population at unique risks. Certain populations of men experience higher rates of facial dermatitis due to frequent beard dyeing. Men who work in industries involving frequent contact with products that contain PPD or cross-reacting allergens may be forced out of their jobs to avoid continual allergic reaction. Men show reluctance to seek medical attention; this puts them at risk for future complications which could be avoided. Understanding gendered behavior may lead to better education, prevention, and treatment of PPD sensitization in men.

This man will have permanent scarring from his “black henna” body art, and is now sensitized to PPD.
Source: https://shewhoseeks.blogspot.ca/2012_02_01_archive.html

Avenues of PPD Sensitization

Traditionally, self-grooming and concerns for beauty have been characterized as feminine behaviors. Men spend less time and money in the use and consumption of beauty products and services.  Gender-specific grooming practices will be explored further in the next section. About 30-40% of women and up to 10% of men in North America are regular hair dye users [2],[3]. Another study estimated that 70% of women and 20% of men have used hair dye at least once in their lifetime [4].

On the other hand, getting a “black henna” tattoo is much less gendered in western cultures, leading to a fairly even split in the numbers of males and females getting a temporary “black henna” tattoo. Traditional henna body art is highly gendered; it is used for decorating and beautifying women, especially for celebrations and social events. In contrast, “black henna,” when it is used in spaces of tourism, is used to mimic the look of true tattoos. It is not limited to a specific custom or style. “black henna” is readily available on boardwalks and beaches, and in shopping malls, resorts, amusement parks, festivals, and fairs. Those who get “black henna” body art are usually children or young adults. [5], [6]. Children are attracted to body art that mimics tattoos because they like to imitate adult behavior. Parents who believe that “black henna” is harmless allow their children to have body art done, unaware of the risk of sensitization. Thus, both young boys and girls get “black henna” body art.

A young boy is scarred and sensitized by a “black henna” tattoo.
Source: Daily Mail

Of those who get a “black henna” tattoo, an estimated 50% will become sensitized [6], [7]. Some will experience a delayed contact dermatitis reaction following; some will not. A person can develop a sensitization even if they did not react to their first exposure. It is rare for consumers of “black henna” to understand the connection between the product used to create “black henna” body art, and hair dye. Children become sensitized to PPD through “black henna,” then later on may choose to dye their hair. The chances of a person previously sensitized by black henna having a severe (+++) reaction to PPD hair dye is about 40% [8]. A study found that 16% of adolescents in Manchester, England had a PPD allergy. Most of this was likely caused by the “black henna” they had gotten on holiday [8]. We will see a wave of hair dye reaction cases around 2030, when this population begins showing gray hair.

Source: Presentation to USFDA June 30, 2016: ‘‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Awareness, Education and Policy, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

While girls and women favor delicate designs, boys and men are more likely to choose tribal-style patterns that cover large areas of the skin with a solid application of “black henna.” This larger surface area increases the amount of PPD to which the person is exposed, thus increasing the risk of sensitization. If the client experiences a delayed hypersensitivity reaction to the body art, a larger area of their body is subject to dermatitis symptoms such as blistering, permanent scarring, and hypopigmentation. This is only just one way gendered behavior creates unique variables in PPD sensitization.

If a parent sees that their child is suffering from a reaction to their “black henna” tattoo, they will probably take the child to a medical professional. Adults, especially men, may be less likely to seek medical attention for their own allergic reaction, especially if it is not severe. Neglecting to seek medical attention causes a person to remain uneducated about the nature of their allergy, putting them at risk for repeated exposures and reactions. Men’s help-seeking behaviors will be discussed later in this article.

Grooming Practices as Gendered Behavior

Conventional ideals for appearance differ greatly between those for men and those for women. Entire books are dedicated to the sociology behind gendered beauty norms; therefore, it is impossible to cover this subject in its entirety within this article. One salient feature is that feminine and masculine norms are often presented as binary, and in opposition with one another [9]. If one behavior is used in traditionally feminine self-grooming, it is avoided in traditionally masculine self-grooming [9], [10], [11]. This is particularly evident in the way we treat hair.  In western societies, most men keep their hair short, while most women have longer hair. Of course, there are many exceptions, and there are people and groups who intentionally choose to defy norms through their appearance. As societal constructs of masculine and feminine ideals shift, so do people’s choices in personal style. However, there is still an overall trend in gendered grooming behaviors. Cosmetics companies actively seek to maintain these norms in the sorts of images they use in marketing their products.

Use self-grooming products while still being manly… Because sports…Or something. Source: Media in Canada

Overall, women dye their hair more than men. Women’s fashion trends change more rapidly than men’s, and women change their personal style more frequently than men do [10], [11]. They do so by altering the length, color, and texture of their hair. Cutting, dyeing, curling, straightening, braiding, and using tools, products, and accessories all help in keeping a style “fresh” or “up-to-date.” Conventional feminine beauty values youth, and fears the appearance of age [9]. Women are much more likely to dye their hair to mask grays, while gray hair is less of a concern for most men. These behaviors play into the higher rate of PPD sensitization in women.

Men’s styles focus on conformity, consistency, and professionalism. Men do not change their hair as frequently.  Feminine beauty is associated with youth; gray hair is undesirable.  On the other hand, men are less concerned with going gray. Gray hair may even increase a man’s attractiveness. It is “distinguished.” The term “silver fox” is used predominately to describe mature, attractive men. Younger men in white-collar professions have even been told that adding some gray into their hair may help their appearance and rapport with clientele [9]. The brand Touch of Gray promises to dye men’s hair while leaving just enough gray to maintain that distinguished, mature image. While traditional concepts of masculinity once idealized the perfect man as rough and rugged, the increase of educated and white-collar careers caused a gradual shift to the image of a clean-cut, well-groomed, professional man, whose power comes from his professional success and wealth, and his ability to attract women [9], [10], [11].

The products on the left all contain PPD. They are marketed toward men, or claim to be “natural.”
The image on the right shows the warning and patch test advisory on Just For Men dye.

Many men do dye their scalp hair and facial hair to mask their grays. The popular brand, Just for Men, directly targets men with its very name. Grooming products marketed toward men attempt to both reinforce the masculine ideal, and present self-grooming as a valid, masculine behavior. Marketing focuses on how the product will augment a man’s ability to attract women, or his image of professional success. By re-framing the use of hair and beauty products as a masculine behavior, companies can increase their number of male consumers.

Men’s use of hair dye is increasing, and the age of the average hair dye user is decreasing. More and more young people are using hair dye as a means of beauty and self expression, rather than for masking gray [22]. This shift in the demographic will lead to higher rates of sensitization and at younger ages, for both men and women.

Dyeing Beards

Facial hair is rather unique to men. Biologically, higher levels of androgen hormones lead to thicker, longer facial hair. While women also have facial hair, it is traditionally minimized through plucking, shaving, or bleaching. Few women have the biological ability to grow thick beards.  Just as scalp hair can be cut, dyed, and styled to express a person’s identity, so can facial hair. Because it is mostly men who have noticeable facial hair, the use of dyes on facial hair and the repercussions are a uniquely male issue.

Facial skin is thin and sensitive. Facial hair, on the other hand, is coarser and more resistant to dye [12]. Those who dye their beards might choose stronger, more concentrated products, or leave the dye on for longer periods of time. This increases the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD. Additionally, a person who dyes their facial hair most likely also dyes their scalp hair, and possibly dyes both at the same time for the sake of convenience. Those who are already sensitized may experienced more severe reactions when the compound comes in contact with their face. The proximity to the nose and mouth leads to further risks. 

Because facial hair grows quickly, a person wishing to mask gray roots will have to dye frequently. Men who use beard dye do so as frequently as once every five days [12], [13]. Men who keep their scalp hair short will also show gray roots more quickly. Repeated exposures both increase the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD, and worsen symptoms for those who are already sensitized.

Furthermore, PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with several structurally similar compounds, including those found in synthetic fragrances. If a man later chooses to shave their facial hair, the process of doing so can create cuts and micro-abrasions that leave the skin vulnerable to reactions from soaps, lotions, and aftershaves [14].

This man is in the hospital for a severe reaction to beard dye. Source: Consumer Affairs

Ethnicity, Culture, and Class in PPD Allergy Variability

A population’s variation in PPD allergy prevalence rates is dependent on several factors, such as behavior, the accessibility of PPD products, and the concentrations within those products. Demographics and geography play into these factors. In many European countries, laws have limited the maximum concentration of PPD allowed in hair dyes, and a related compound, para-toluenediamine (PTD) is often used instead [2]. (Side note: PTD is believed to be less sensitizing than PPD, but those who are already sensitized to PPD are likely to experience a cross-reaction with PTD. We’ll save that can of worms for another time.) In countries where PPD concentration in hair dye is restricted, or where PTD is more commonly used, sensitization rates to PPD are lower [4]. The same goes for countries with greater light-haired populations [1].

Conversely, in countries with less restriction on PPD concentration, and with larger dark-haired populations, we see higher sensitization rates. In many Asian countries, hair dyes with high PPD concentrations are easily available. Popular hair dye brands can contain up to 80% PPD.  “Henna stone,”  which is solid industrial PPD, is widely sold for use in hair dye and body art [6], [7]. The median prevalence rate in Asia is 4.3%, but ranges from 2-12% within regions and sub-groups [13].

 In Saudi Arabia, and among Arabic men regardless of their location, growing and coloring beards is common practice. The prevalence rate for facial dermatitis from dye is high among this population [12]. A Korean study found that about 64% of adults with gray hair had experience using hair dye, and of that group, about 24% experienced a reaction [15].

A study conducted by the Cleveland Clinic investigated sensitization rates in white and black racial groups, and found that rates were similar among both groups for all allergens except PPD. Black people overall showed much higher rates of PPD sensitization than white people (10.6% vs. 4.5% respectively), and black men had much higher sensitization rates than black women (21.2% vs. 4.2% respectively) [16]. This is likely influenced by a combination of hair dye use/exposure, occupation, and genetic differences.

Black hair care is nearly a multi-billion dollar industry. Black women spend more money on cosmetics than non-black women. However, this alone does not explain why black men have significantly higher sensitization rates than black women. One factor could be that black men who dye their beards must do so frequently, and with high PPD concentrations, similar to the phenomenon seen in Arabic men.  One class-action lawsuit against the Just For Men hair and beard dye brand claims that JFM unfairly targeted African American men in their marketing of a product that contained higher levels of PPD.

Various iterations of Just For Men “Jet Black” hair and beard dyes all feature black men on the packaging. Source: Amazon

Additionally, there may be a higher proportion of black men (in comparison to non-black men, and black women) in industries which handle PPD and related compounds, such as fur/leather/textile dyeing, and the manufacture and handling of black rubber products in rubber and automotive industries.

One can look at a statistic for PPD sensitization in, say, North America for example, and make an assumption that all of the population is at equal risk. This is far from the truth; sensitization rates vary greatly between sub-groups. More research needs to be done on specific populations to determine these sub-groups, and the factors which lead to higher rates of sensitization. Hair dye and “black henna” use, as well as occupation cause significant variation. More nuanced demographic data will create a clearer picture of the populations that might require additional attention.

Help-Seeking Behavior, Education, and Prevention

Sociological studies in men’s help-seeking behavior affirm that men are less likely than women to use medical services. Studies have focused on mental help and addiction, as well as common physical ailments such as headache and backache [17], [18]. There has yet been a study specifically regarding the help-seeking behaviors of men and women who experience a reaction to “black henna” tattoos, or PPD hair dye. However, one can infer from the general trend of help-seeking reluctance that there is a large population of men who are sensitized to PPD, who are entirely unaware of the allergy or how to manage it.

Overall, most people who become sensitized to PPD from a “black henna” tattoo are not aware that the sensitizing agent, PPD, is the same compound used in hair dye. Numerous case reports have described patients seeking medical care for reactions to hair dye, who reported having gotten a “black henna” tattoo in the past [1-8], [13], [19-22]. It is estimated that, of those who experience a severe reaction to hair dye, only 10-30% of cases will be seen by a doctor, and even fewer by a dermatologist. [19], [20]. In a survey of 521 Korean adults with graying hair, a whopping 74% of those who reported experiencing a reaction to hair dye said that they did not visit a medical professional. The primary reasons were that they did not feel the reaction was severe enough (44.6%), and that they saw the side effects as a normal part of dyeing their hair (39.3%) [15]. Another article estimated that only 15% of people with a hair dye allergy seek treatment, and only a fraction of these people are patch-tested for allergies [22].

Societal influences cause men in particular to choose to “tough out” medical problems rather than seeking help. If a man experiences a reaction to PPD and chooses not to seek medical help, he deprives himself of crucial information related to his sensitization. Most likely, he will think it was a one-time fluke. He might not learn that “black henna” and conventional hair dyes both contain PPD. He might not learn that PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with other products such as black rubber, fabric dyes, photographic developer and lithography plates, photocopying and printing inks,  oils, greases and gasoline.

Without consulting a dermatologist or allergist, someone who is sensitized may never learn how to properly manage their new allergy, putting them at risk for repeated exposure and worsening symptoms. Furthermore, PPD sensitization can limit prospective occupations, or force workers to leave their jobs due to continuing and worsening reactions to the materials involved. This would affect people in cosmetology, fur and textile industries, rubber industries, automotive industries, work that involves printing and photo development, and numerous other fields [2].

Studies suggest that men’s help-seeking choices are influenced by the perceived potential for embarrassment, as well as the perceived normality of a problem. If an issue is ego-centric, meaning that it may affect a person’s self-image, men are less likely to seek help. The same goes for if a man perceives a problem as abnormal [17]. Advertisements for erectile dysfunction medications have focused on normalizing ED, as well as reinforcing the notion that the embarrassment of ED is worse than the embarrassment of consulting a doctor. This is an example of an attempt to normalize a medical issue and decrease the help-seeking behavior’s threat to a man’s self-esteem.

This ad for Viagra affirms traditional masculine ideology. Source: Outsource Marketing

While statistics show that few people seek medical treatment for reactions to hair dye, additional factors may cause men to do so even less. First, men are less likely to seek medical help than women. Second, because traditional masculine ideals enforce the belief that preoccupation with beauty, especially hair, is a feminine behavior, many men may be hesitant to seek help for reactions to hair dye. Doing so requires admitting to the use of hair dye, which can create a blow to a masculine self-image. While PPD is one of the most common allergens (named Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society in 2006), people remain largely unaware of its risks. Women are more familiar with hair dye reactions than men. Men may perceive a reaction to hair dye to be both non-normal and a threat to self-image. Thus, it is essential that efforts be made to increase awareness about PPD sensitization, focusing on its severity, high likelihood, and prevalence.

Just for Men Class-Action Suit

The hair dye brand, Just For Men, is currently at the center of several class-action lawsuits. Users reported experiencing adverse reactions to the products on their scalp hair and/or facial hair. Some suits claim that the patch test advised in the packaging was not sufficient for determining how the product would affect the skin on the scalp and face. In fact, conducting a patch test may increase sensitization. As mentioned earlier, other suits claim that the company intentionally and unfairly targeted black men in their marketing of their Jet Black hair dye, which the legal group claims to contain 17 times more PPD than other dyes from the same company.

If you are a man who has experienced an allergic reaction to Just for Men, consider looking to find if there is a legal group with an open suit in your area.

This series of class action suits is a positive move forward in demanding stricter regulation and more responsibility on the part of hair dye companies. Such legal action has rarely occurred against companies marketing hair dye to women, and fewer acts have been successful. Overwhelmingly, users of hair dye see adverse effects as a “normal” part of the hair dyeing process, and even choose to continue using products that cause reactions because the thought of going gray is worse than enduring contact dermatitis symptoms [15].

Conclusion

Because women make up the majority of hair dye users, there is a paucity of research specific to men’s use of hair dye. It is likely that more men are sensitized to PPD than current numbers suggest. Data taken from medical databases and case reports only include those people who seek medical attention or make themselves available to researchers. Surveys depend on honest self-reporting of behaviors. Men’s help-seeking behaviors may have cause research numbers to be lower than the reality

Based on available data, men make up a smaller proportion of the PPD sensitized population, in comparison to women. There is an exception in the case of black men in the United States. While hair dye allergies are often framed in the context of the female consumer, it is critical that the male population not be forgotten. The use of dye on beards is unique to men and poses special risks. Studies on help-seeking behavior suggest that men are less likely to seek medical attention if they were to experience a reaction. The idea of self-grooming as a gendered behavior further prevents men from openly discussing their use of hair dye.

Young boys who get a “black henna” tattoo on vacation, while at an amusement park, or in other tourist settings, are at risk of experiencing a reaction later on in life if they choose to use oxidative dyes. “Black henna” tattoos contribute significantly to the number of people who have PPD sensitization. In the future, we will see an increase of both men and women who develop severe reactions to hair dye.  As societal ideals of beauty, self-grooming, and gender norms change, hair dye use may increase among men. Already there is a shift in the use of hair dye as tool for masking age, to an avenue of self-expression in younger populations [22].

In order to ensure that both men and women are properly educated about the risks and prevalence of PPD sensitization, continued efforts must be made in raising awareness. Consumers should be aware that PPD is highly sensitizing, and that reactions from hair dye are quite common. Steps must be taken to prevent PPD sensitization before the onset. This includes continuing to raise awareness about “black henna” body art, pushing for stricter regulation of products containing PPD, and presenting safe alternatives for altering hair color and masking grays.

To learn more about PPD sensitization, visit the following links.

The Henna Page: Black Henna Warnings

Catherine Cartwright-Jones’ PhD Dissertation, “The Geographies of the Black Henna Meme Organism and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization: A Qualitative History”

AncientSunrise.Blog: What You Need to Know About Para-Phenylenediamine

To learn how to use plant dyes as a safe and effective alternative for coloring hair and masking grays, read the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair E-Book and visit www.HennaforHair.com, and  www.Mehandi.com.

References

[1]             Mukkanna, Krishna Sumanth, Natalie M. Stone, and John R. Ingram. “Para-phenylenediamine allergy: current perspectives on diagnosis and management.” Journal of asthma and allergy 10 (2017): 9.

[2]             Hamann, Dathan, Carsten R. Hamann, Jacob P. Thyssen, and Carola Lidén. “p‐Phenylenediamine and other allergens in hair dye products in the United States: a consumer exposure study.” Contact Dermatitis 70, no. 4 (2014): 213-218.

[3]             Redlick, Fara, and Joel DeKoven. “Allergic contact dermatitis to paraphenylendiamine in hair dye after sensitization from black henna tattoos: a report of 6 cases.” Canadian Medical Association Journal 176, no. 4 (2007): 445-446.

[4]             Schuttelaar, Marie-Louise Anna, and Tatiana Alexandra Vogel. “Contact Allergy to Hair Dyes.” Cosmetics 3, no. 3 (2016): 21.

[5]             Goldenberg, Alina, and Sharon E. Jacob. “Is the Use of PPD in Black Henna Tattoo Criminal or Remiss?.” International Journal of Integrative Pediatrics and Environmental Medicine 1 (2014): 22-26.

[6]             ‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Mapping the Potential for Extreme Sensitization to Oxidative Hair Dye, Presentation at Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ 70th Annual Scientific Meeting, December 10, 2015, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

[7]             Presentation to USFDA June 30, 2016: ‘‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Awareness, Education and Policy, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

[8]             Smith V, Clark S, and Wilkinson M. “Allergic contact dermatitis in children: trends in allergens, 10 years on. A retrospective study of 500 children tested between 2005 and 2014 in one U.K. centre.” British Association of Dermatologists’ Annual Conference. Leeds Teaching Hospitals NHS Trust, Leeds, U.K. (2015).

[9]             Synnott, Anthony. “Shame and glory: A sociology of hair.” The British journal of sociology 38, no. 3 (1987): 381-413.

[10]          Ricciardelli, Rosemary. “Masculinity, consumerism, and appearance: a look at men’s hair.” Canadian Review of Sociology/Revue canadienne de sociologie 48, no. 2 (2011): 181-201.

[11]          Barber, Kristen. “The well-coiffed man: Class, race, and heterosexual masculinity in the hair salon.” Gender & Society 22, no. 4 (2008): 455-476.

[12]          Hsu, Te-Shao, Mark DP Davis, Rokea el-Azhary, John F. Corbett, and Lawrence E. Gibson. “Beard dermatitis due to para-phenylenediamine use in Arabic men.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 44, no. 5 (2001): 867-869.

[13]          Handa, Sanjeev, Rahul Mahajan, and Dipankar De. “Contact dermatitis to hair dye: an update.”  Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology 78, no. 5 (2012): 583.

[14]          Jensen, Peter, Torkil Menné, Jeanne D. Johansen, and Jacob P. Thyssen. “Facial allergic contact dermatitis caused by fragrance ingredients released by an electric shaver.” Contact dermatitis 67, no. 6 (2012): 380-381.

[15]          Kim, Jung Eun, Hee Dam Jung, and Hoon Kang. “A survey of the awareness, knowledge and behavior of hair dye use in a Korean population with gray hair.” Annals of dermatology 24, no. 3 (2012): 274-279.

[16]          Dickel, Heinrich, James S. Taylor, Phyllis Evey, and Hans F. Merk. “Comparison of patch test results with a standard series among white and black racial groups.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 12, no. 2 (2001): 77-82.

[17]          Addis, Michael E., and James R. Mahalik. “Men, masculinity, and the contexts of help seeking.” American psychologist 58, no. 1 (2003): 5.

[18]          Hunt, Kate, Joy Adamson, Catherine Hewitt, and Irwin Nazareth. “Do women consult more than men? A review of gender and consultation for back pain and headache.” Journal of health services research & policy 16, no. 2 (2011): 108-117.

[19]          Søsted, H., T. Agner, Klaus Ejner Andersen, and T. Menné. “55 cases of allergic reactions to hair dye: a descriptive, consumer complaint‐based study.” Contact dermatitis 47, no. 5 (2002): 299-303.

[20]          de Groot, Anton C. “Side‐effects of henna and semi‐permanent ‘black henna’tattoos: a full review.” Contact dermatitis 69, no. 1 (2013): 1-25.

[21]          Jacob, Sharon E., and Alina Goldenberg. “Allergic.”

[22]          McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” BMJ: British Medical Journal 334, no. 7587 (2007): 220.

Ancient Sunrise® Amla Powder and Its Many Uses

Amla (emblica officinalis) is also known as Indian Gooseberry. It is both eaten and used in hair and skin care products in South Asia. To create amla powder, the fruit is dried, ground, and sifted. Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder can be used as an acid to dye-release henna and cassia mixes and to prevent loss of curl pattern, on its own as a hair treatment, and on the skin as a facial.

In a henna and/or cassia mix that involve indigo, amla lends ash tones to the resulting color. It helps to maintain a person’s natural curl pattern, which can loosen with repeated henna applications. Amla allows more indigo dye to enter the hair, for richer, darker brunettes.

Amla’s natural acids temporarily snap the hydrogen bonds in the hair, allowing the strands to be reshaped. Using amla as a treatment on its own can add body and wave to the hair. This same effect can be utilized for the skin. This powder helps to loosen dead skin cells on the surface and exfoliate them away, leaving clearer, brighter, and tighter skin.

Ancient Sunrise® amla powder is tested by our suppliers to ensure it is free of adulterants. We also run our powder under a microscope to check for any irregularities. It has a pH level of 3.5, making it an effective acid for dye release. It it gentle enough to use directly on skin for short periods of time.

Amla for Neutral/Ash Mixes and Better Brunettes

Amla contains gallic acid, ellagic acid, and ascorbic acid. Gallic acid pushes henna and cassia’s dye molecules toward ash tones, leading to cooler hair color results. This is useful for those who do not want red tones in their brunette mixes, or want a more neutral blonde result.

A mix with just henna and amla will result in a browner or cooler red, with less orange or copper tones. A mix with just cassia and amla will result in a more neutral, “wheat” blonde on light and graying hair, as opposed to a yellow blonde.

To use amla powder to neutralize red and yellow tones, mix 25g (just under three tablespoons) with every 100g henna and/or cassia. Mix the powders with distilled water and dye-release as normal. There is no need for additional acid powders or fruit juice.

If you are adding indigo to your mix, do so as you would normally, mixing Ancient Sunrise® indigo powder with distilled water and combining the pastes immediately before application.

With mixes containing indigo, the result will be a cooler, deeper brunette. This is especially useful for people who want minimal warm tones in their hair, and those who notice that the indigo fades from their hair over time, leaving a red tone. Amla allows more indigo to bind effectively with the hair.

When used in a henna/indigo mix, amla mutes warm tones and aids in indigo uptake.

Amla is not a dye, and will not affect the color of a person’s hair if used on its own. It merely aids in indigo uptake, as well as shifting the resulting color of henna and cassia dyes.

The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits in Cool Brunette and Cool Dark Brunette contain pre-measured portions of henna, indigo, and amla for easy mixing and great results.

Amla for Curls and Waves

When henna’s dye molecule binds with the outer keratin layers of the hair, it smooths frizzy, damaged hair and reinforces thin, weak hair. The added molecules also make the hair heavier and thicker. For those with a natural curl pattern, this can mean looser curls. Some who find their curls unruly or unmanageable take advantage of this effect. However, many wish to keep their curls. Adding amla to a henna mix helps to maintain the natural curl pattern.

Keep your color bright and your curls bouncy.

This can be done one of two ways. If you are also looking to mute red tones or achieve a deeper brunette, use Ancient Sunrise® amla powder to dye release your mix as explained above. If you wish to keep a brighter tone, dye-release your mix with your choice of acid, then mix 25g of amla into a paste, and stir this into your henna or cassia just before application. This will protect your curls without neutralizing henna and/or cassia’s brighter tones.

To add bounce and body to your hair, use amla on its own as a hair treatment mixed with Clarity Cassia. The following section will cover this.

Amla as a Conditioning Treatment

Amla can be used with Clarity Cassia to add bounce and body to the hair, to clear the scalp of dead skin, and to balance oily scalps. Amla’s acids cause the bonds in the hair to temporarily loosen, making it possible to temporarily reshape them. The acids also help to exfoliate skin and break down excess oil, keeping the scalp healthy and the pores clear.

Mix a paste of amla powder, cassia powder and distilled water. 25g of amla is needed for every 100g of cassia. The amount total will be dependent on the thickness and length of your hair. Apply the paste throughout clean hair and wrap with plastic, leaving it in for for an hour. Rinse, massaging the scalp, towel dry, and set your damp hair in curls or a braid and allow it to air dry.

Those who have normally very dry scalp and hair, or those who are sensitive to higher levels of ascorbic acid may want to use this technique sparingly or for a shorter amount of time to avoid itching and dryness. One can also use a little bit of oil or serum on the scalp if it feels too dry after the amla treatment.

Ancient Sunrise® also offers a shampoo bar with amla.
All shampoo bars are made with natural ingredients.

Amla as a Facial

High in vitamin C (ascorbic acid), amla paste makes a great facial treatment. It exfoliates dead skin cells, encouraging cell turn-over, and clears away excess oil. It leaves the skin tighter and brighter. Those with acne may find that a regular amla facial helps to lessen and prevent breakouts, and fade hyperpigmentation that comes with scarring. Over time, the complexion becomes brighter and more even, and the skin’s texture is smoother.

            Mix 1-2 teaspoons of amla powder with enough warm water to create a paste. Massage the paste over clean skin, avoiding the eyes. Leave it on for 3-5 minutes. Rinse, pat dry, and moisturize. This can be used once or twice a week. Vitamin C can increase UV sensitivity for some; if this is the case for you, make sure to use an SPF.

If you have further questions about how to use Ancient Sunrise® amla powder, feel free to comment below or contact Customer Service via email, chat, or phone.