“Okay Google…search ‘eyebrow henna.'” A robotic voice replies, “Here are the results from the search.”
My thumb swipes upwards in a circular motion as I scroll through hundreds of results and several services offering “henna” for eyebrows. The biggest disappointment is that none of the results show pure henna. This poses a problem because what is being advertised to the world are adulterated cosmetics. What makes eyebrow and lash tint adulterated are ingredients such as paraphenylenediamine (PPD) and other coal tar derivatives. Furthermore, the FDA has not approved any products that color or tint the eyebrows and/or eyelashes “permanently”.
Pure Henna on Eyebrow Hair and the Skin Underneath
Pure henna can stain light eyebrow hair, but it tends to take on a weak orange color that is gone within a few weeks to a month. When pure henna is applied to darker eyebrow hair, there is not a noticeable difference. A lot of the products that are being marketed for eyebrows aren’t meant to be used for the eyebrow hair itself, but are for staining the skin under the hair. With pure henna, the skin will not stain dark because the eyebrow area has thin skin. It should also be noted that henna doesn’t stain thin skin for long. The products that we see marketed to stain the skin under the eyebrows tend to be a darker color in which henna itself is not able to achieve in this particular area. Henna does not dye skin black.
Note: The FDA does not recognize the use of henna on any part of the body except for hair on the head, unless it is for cultural purposes.
You probably have seen articles about black henna and PPD. You may have seen photos of people on vacation with scars after being exposed to a black “henna” tattoo. These reactions that we see to PPD are the same reactions we see to “eyebrow henna” and eyelash tints. Why are companies still allowed to offer products that are incredibly toxic? How are they getting away with overlooking these horrible reactions?
I came across a blog that was discussing allergic reactions to eyebrow and eyelash tints. It suggested a product to use for those who have allergies. I clicked on the link of the product advertised, scrolled down to the ingredients list, and the first thing that was listed was “Paraphenylenediamine.” The last ingredient listed was “henna,” but it does not make sense from a scientific standpoint. Henna has specific instructions to allow it to stain, and even then, it does not have a shelf life once made, unless it is frozen after dye release. I have come across enough products in my career to know that “henna” in an ingredients list does not always mean lawsonia inermis.
The the author could have used their platform to promote real education on allergies to products, but instead they suggested a product that can cause complications because the first ingredient, PPD, causes strong allergic reactions. Unfortunately, the blog was not the only piece of material available to the public that was offering misinformation.
Reporting Reactions
If you have had a reaction to a tint for the eyebrows or eyelashes, visit your doctor immediately. Go to the ER if reactions are severe. Please report any adverse reactions here: https://www.fda.gov/safety/medwatch-fda-safety-information-and-adverse-event-reporting-program. Reporting severe reactions can help others who may have a similar or worse reaction to the same or similar product. Document your situation and help spread awareness of the dangers of PPD in cosmetics.
Salons and Brow Tinting Places
The FDA states that eyebrow and eyelash tinting is not allowed if the products contain coal tar derivativesor are considered “permanent”. Regardless of what the FDA does allow, your state laws may not allow eyebrow or eyelash tinting. State Boards of Cosmetology are required to follow both federal and state regulations. Ohio’s State Board of Cosmetology did not have much comment on this issue except that salons and parlors must follow the FDA regulations, as mentioned above. Shops containing illegal tinting services should be reported to prevent serious injuries. To make a report, visit your local State Board of Cosmetology website. (Your state’s board of cosmetology can be found by a quick Google search.)
If you are feeling down about your eyebrows, try a product that contains fibers. Most fibers are all natural, keratin fibers. These tend to fill out the eyebrow making them appear fuller, naturally. There are also many eyebrow pencils, liners, and pens available that might work better for you, too. Another benefit to using makeup to shaping and filling in your eyebrows is you can wash it off right away if there are any mistakes. Stay safe and practice safe beauty techniques!
Maria • Ancient Sunrise Specialist • Licensed Cosmetologist
There is a wide variety of products available for coloring hair which claim to be pure henna, or which claim to contain pure henna powder along with additional natural plant ingredients. There is no international standard for what can be marketed as henna, and it is often difficult to tell which products are what they claim to be. Many henna for hair products lack an ingredient declaration. A package may show only some ingredients or have no ingredients list at all.
Additionally,
products which claim to contain all-natural ingredients vary in
quality as there are no
internationally agreed upon standards for “all natural”.
Powders may be poorly sifted, containing sand or larger plant
particles which make for difficult application and removal. Stale or
low dye-content henna products may contain additives such as
additional dyes or metallic salts to compensate for poor quality of
materials. Green dye may be added to henna powder to make it look
fresher.
The
FDA has a standard for henna and products entering the United
States labeled as a “henna” hair coloring product. These
guidelines are do not appear to be regularly enforced as are
regulations for products labeled as henna for use on skin.
The FDA forbids the
sale of and is empowered to confiscate of any henna
product labeled for skin use, or products showing images of henna
used on skin. Customs and border protection is empowered to search
the importing company’s website to determine if henna is intended for
use on skin, and may seize and destroy henna that appears to be
imported for use on skin.
This article is the
first of a series that will test and compare various “henna for
hair” products which have been found online on sites such as Amazon
and Ebay, in import stores in
the USA, and in ‘health food stores’. The purpose of these
studies will be to determine the quality of those products in
comparison to Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products, and to test
for the existence of dye additives. This series will feature articles
investigating products within the following categories:
1.“Pure” henna, herbal henna mixes, and red result henna for hair products
2. Brunette result henna for hair products
3. Black result henna for hair products
This article will
cover the first category by investigating nine samples of retail
henna hair dye products which are labeled and/or advertised as 100%
pure henna, a 100% natural mix of henna and additional “herbs”,
or as henna-based hair products which claim to color the hair red.
Subsequent articles will report on henna for hair products claiming
to color hair brunette and black.
The first part of this article will report on product labeling, visual and textural qualities of the products as dry powders, and visual and textural qualities of products when mixed with liquid to form a paste. The second part of this article will report the results of paper chromatography tests designed to determine the existence of dyes, lawsone or otherwise, in each sample.
Sample Selection
and Label Analysis
Nine “henna”
hair dye products were selected based on the following criteria:
1) The product claims to contain only 100% natural henna.
OR
2) The product claims to be 100% natural, containing henna along with additional “herbs.”
AND
3) The product either claims a red result or does NOT claim to dye the hair brunette or black.*
*Products that claim to contain henna and other plant powders for brunette and black hair results will be tested and reported in future articles.
Not all products
that are marketed as 100% pure henna state explicitly state a hair
color result, as some are marketed for both hair and skin, as well as
for mixing with other plant dye powders such as indigo. Henna has
been used for hair, skin, and home remedies for centuries. It can be
assumed that if a product claims to be 100% henna, it should provide
a reddish result on lighter hair..
These products are
a random collection of henna products purchased in shops and online,
easily accessible to the retail consumer. In fact, very few brands,
if any, submit their plant dye powders to the same testing standards
as Ancient Sunrise®. Ancient Sunrise® products are sent to an
independent
laboratory for multiple tests prior to sale to ensure they do not
contain adulterants, accidental or deliberate.
Below are images of the labels for the nine samples. Beyond this section, each sample will be referred to as its corresponding number. They will be tested alongside Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight henna powder, which will be referred to as “AS”.
Sample #1
The
product claims to be 100% natural. The ingredients are reported as
“100% Natural Henna Powder.” The product also claims to be
organic.
This
product fits into criterion 1. There is no information suggesting
there are other ingredients other than henna. The label would lead
the everyday consumer to assume that the contents of the packaging
are pure, natural henna powder.
However,
descriptions on sites
selling this product claim a “Beautiful
golden brown color” which is inconsistent with results expected
from pure henna. This would suggest either 1) The product is not what
it claims to be or 2) Poor quality product and/or poor instructions
lead to a lighter result.
Instructions
are included on the back of the packaging. On the side of the box, it
states that this is a product of India.
Sample #2
This
product fits both criteria 1 and 3, as it claims to be 100% natural
henna powder, and also reports a red result in addition to showing
multiple images of red hair on the packaging.
No
instructions were provided. The label includes an address of an
import company. The website listed does not exist. Some
additional searching found that the company has a contract with a
manufacturing and export company in Pakistan, and that this is one
type of product they export, along with clothing and gift items.
Sample #3
While
the front of this package claims it is 100% natural henna, and states
that the shade is copper, the back is unclear. It says “Copper: for
dark blond, light brown hair,” which most likely means that dark
blonde or light brown hair may be colored to a copper color. It also
mentions “neutral henna” which suggests that it contains cassia
obovata. However, on the website, the only ingredient listed for this
product is “Lawsonia inermis (henna) leaf extract.” Based on the
reported ingredients, this product fits criterion 1 as a product that
claims to be pure henna.
A
pamphlet included in the box provides instructions which recommend
mixing the paste with hot water and applying once the mixture has
cooled.
While
the packaging says that the product is made in France, there is no
indication of the origin of the henna powder. If it does contain
henna, it is most likely mixed and/or assembled in France with
ingredients imported from elsewhere.
Sample #4
This
product claims to contain henna under the insert’s first section,
“Composition.” It claims to provide a deep red result. However,
the description is confusing, as it states that lawsone and
“mannitte” are responsible for coloring. If mannite is to be
understood as the sugar alcohol, mannitol, it would not affect color.
The
product claims to be “Henna with natural herbs,” but these
additional ingredients are not reported anywhere. In the
chromatography section, it will become clear that this product
clearly contains more than just henna powder.
This
product includes instructions on the insert, and is a product of
Egypt.
Sample #5
This
product’s label includes something close to an ingredients list, as
it reports henna powder along with additional herbs which are meant
to affect the color result as well as to condition the hair.
This
product fits criterion 2. There is no indication of color result,
other than stating that the blend of herbs and henna “give the dark
color”. In fact, the label states “It does not contain any colour
or dye.” This may be intended to mean that the product does not
contain any synthetic dyes. If the product does contain henna, it
would color light hair a red tone. None of the additional herbs
listed are ones which produce a dye, but some plant powders can
affect the tone of hennaed hair. This is most likely what the
packaging means to suggest.
The
instructions recommend mixing the product with water in an “iron
vessel”* and letting it sit for to hours. If the product does
contain amla powder, it may be enough to create an acidic mix.
The
product was manufactured in India.
*An
iron dye pot can be
effective at decreasing
the vibrancy of dye
colors in a boiling pot to dye yarn or cloth, but will not change the
result of henna on hair. The iron pot may cause the dye
released paste surface to look browner, but there is no significant
effect on the hair.
Sample #6
This
product, like #5, is labeled as a henna and herbal mix for
conditioning hair, but does not explicitly state a color result. On
the product’s site, it is described as providing a “rich burgundy
shade.”
The
front of the packaging includes the words “100% natural” and
“Mehendi,” another term for henna. It is unclear whether this
should be read as two phrases or one, as the from also clearly states
that there are nine additional herbs. The back of the package
describes supposed benefits of the added herbs. The phrase
“Rajasthani Mehendi” means that the henna in this product is from
the Rajasthan region of India, which is where much of the world’s
henna, including Ancient Sunrise®
henna, is grown.
The
ingredients list states that henna powder is the first ingredient,
followed by powder forms of the following: aloe, neem, brahmi,
bhringraj, amla, hibiscus flower, shikakai, jatamansi, and methi. All
of these ingredients are commonly known and sold in South Asian
stores as health and beauty herbs.
This
product has instructions on the back of the packaging. It recommends
mixing the powder with water and letting it sit for 2-3 hours. Like
sample #5, it is possible that some of the added herbs are acidic
enough that water would be enough. It also suggests adding oil or
curd for “extra softness.” Doing so would affect the dye uptake,
leading to lighter results. To learn more about what not to add to
henna mixes, read Henna
for Hair 101: Don’t Put Food On Your Head.
It is
from India, and is a very popular “henna for hair” product both
in South Asia and in the States, and is widely available online and
in international grocery stores.
Sample #7
This
product claims to contain henna. The brand’s website
describes it as a 100% natural product. The site also sells “henna
neutral” (cassia powder) and “henna black/basma” (indigo
powder), which would suggest that their “henna red” is their
henna (lawsonia inermis) powder. Therefore, this product seems to fit
criterion 1, a product is labeled/advertised as a 100% pure henna
powder product, but it is not entirely clear due to a lack of
ingredient declaration.
However,
the table on the back seems inconsistent with true henna results, as
they suggest that, one would see some variation of brunette or copper
results. Like sample #1, it is possible that this is either due to
the product containing additional ingredients, or ineffective
mixing/application methods.
I will
still include this product in within this group of samples because it
is both labeled as henna, includes the word “red,” and the
website claims it is a 100% natural product.
There
is a US address on the back, but no indication of where the henna was
grown.
Sample #8
This
product fits criterion 1 as it claims to be 100% natural henna. It
includes instructions on the back of the packaging. The brand’s
website appears to sell additional hair care products such as
shampoos, conditioners, and oils. The product has an Indian address
on its packaging.
Sample #9
This product qualifies for criterion 1 as a product that claims to be pure henna powder. The information made available on this packaging is minimal. It states that it contains natural “hina” (henna) powder with no added chemicals, and that henna has been used as a dye for centuries. There are no instructions. The address listed is in London, UK, but the source of the henna is not listed. An internet search found that this brand, like sample #2, is part of an international exporting company that sells a variety of items such as health product, gifts, and books. It specializes in Islamic items.
Powder and Paste Qualities
There
was a wide variation in powder sift, texture, and scent among the
samples. When mixed with liquid, the resulting pastes also varied in
qualities.
Ancient
Sunrise®
henna is grown in the Rajasthan region of India and is finely sifted.
Many of the Rajasthani hennas have a slimy, stringy texture when made
into a paste. This is because henna plants will have more or less
natural mucilage depending on the cultivar (variety of plant). Not
all hennas have this texture, and some are naturally more creamy.
Pakistani henna tends to have less mucilage and a greater coefficient
of expansion. The higher coeffient of expansion and lower mucilage
leads to paste cracking when henna is used as body art; it does not
make any difference in hair application.
It
could be assumed that hennas manufactured in a country were also
grown there, unless the address is outside of where henna is
naturally grown, such as those products with company addresses in
Europe or the United States. In the case of the latter, it not
possible to determine the origin of the henna. More information on
this textural quality of henna pastes can be found on page 23 and 24
of Chapter
Four: Henna Science and Microscopy from the Ancient
Sunrise free E-book.
Quality
henna powder should not be gritty, chunky, or contain visible pieces
of plant leaf and/or stem. Henna should not bubble or turn frothy
when mixed with liquid. Some other plant powders which contain
saponins, such as Zizyphus, do froth. Bubbles may also indicate some
reaction between the acidic liquid and an unknown ingredient in the
powder.
Pure
henna has a neutral, plant-like odor similar to dried straw or hay.
It does not smell floral or spicy; it smells like leaves. Pure henna
powder does not have a perfumed, pine, camphor, or eucalyptus scent.
Henna powders can vary in color from light green to olive green.
While color can be indicative of the powder’s freshness and
quality, it is not always the case. Powders can be made greener by
adding dyes.
For products labeled
as henna for use on hair, the FDA has the following specifications:
“It shall not contain more than 10 percent of plant material from Lawsonia alba Lam. (Lawsonia inermis L.) other than the leaf and petiole, and shall be free from admixture with material from any other species of plant.
Moisture, not more than 10 percent.
Total ash, not more than 15 percent.
Acid-insoluble ash, not more than 5 percent.
Lead (as Pb), not more than 20 parts per million.
Arsenic (as As), not more than 3 parts per million.”
In
other words, a product labeled as henna needs to be made from the
leaf or petiole (leaf stalk) of the plant rather than the bark,
roots, or any other part. It should be a dry good. It should contain
no more than 15 percent inorganic filler, or ash.
This can include substances such as sand and metallic salts. “Free
from admixture with material from any other species of plant” means
that products containing henna mixed with other herbs or plant
materials are illegal to enter the United States. Several of the
products selected for this article are labeled as herb mixes. Others,
while labeled as pure henna, smell like additional herbs were
included but not reported on the labeling or ingredients.
Please
note that even if a henna product conforms to FDA standards, this
does not necessarily make it a quality product. This list is simply
the minimum for what the FDA considers an acceptably safe product for
sale and use within the United States. A product labeled as henna for
hair could be roughly ground henna leaves with 15% sand and still be
legal. It is also important to mention that this article does not aim
to determine the legality or safety of any of the products tested.
This article serves only to report on observable physical qualities
and on the presence of dyes in each product.
Below are the observations on each sample.
#1.
This product was labeled as 100% natural, organic henna powder. No
other ingredients were reported. The color was not of any concern.
However, there was a faint herbal scent that suggested additional
plant powders were added, most likely one or more of those commonly
found in henna herbal mixes, such as shikakai, neem and so forth. The
sift was fine. When mixed into a paste, the consistency was
acceptable; its a slimy, gel-like texture was similar to Rajasthani
hennas, such as the AS sample. This makes sense, given that product
was from India.
#2.
This product also claimed to be pure henna. However, there was a very
noticeable herbal scent. The color of the powder was much deeper than
a henna powder should be, almost like the color of nutmeg powder.
Larger particles in the powder suggested a low sift. When mixed into
a paste, the product frothed slightly and had a gritty consistency.
The paste also showed a darker color than would be normal for a henna
paste that had just been mixed. Shikakai
powder has a red tone and herbal scent, lathers slightly when
mixed. This may explain the qualities in found with this product, but
would mean that the product is definitely not pure henna.
#3 The
product claimed to be pure henna. There was nothing out of the
ordinary about the color or texture of this product. Some of the
powder formed soft lumps which could be broken with light pressure.
There was no discernible scent beyond a normal plant-like scent. The
color was acceptable for henna powder. The paste consistency was
thinner and runnier than the others, despite all powders being mixed
with the same amount of liquid.
#4.
The product was labeled as “henna with natural herbs.” There was
a very strong herbal scent of something other than henna. The powder
was a vivid, brick red, and did smell like the other “herbal
hennas” and like samples #1 and #2. The powder had large plant
particulate matter and long, thin pieces of plant fiber. When liquid
was added, the liquid itself immediately turned blood red even prior
to mixing. The paste, after mixing, was blood red. This suggests that
the product contains a water-soluble red dye. The paste texture was
much grittier than a normal henna paste should be. Shikakai would not
be a sufficient explanation for the color of this powder because
while it has a red color, shikakai does not produce a dye.
#5.
This product was labeled as henna with added herbs. The scent matched
this. The powder showed large stem and/or leaf fiber particles which
were easily visible to the naked eye. The paste consistency reflected
this lower level of sift. There was a slight sliminess to the paste;
if better sifted, the product may have produced a paste similar to a
Rajasthani henna. The light green-brown color of the powder and paste
was similar to how a henna product should appear.
#6.
This product, like #5, was labeled as an herbal henna. Both had
similar added herbs reported on their packaging. The product was
better sifted than #5, but some plant particulates were visible. The
powder had an herbal scent. The paste showed more of the shiny, slimy
mucilage texture than #5, but not as much as can be seen in the AS
sample. This would match the packaging’s statement that the henna
was from the Rajasthan region of India. The powder and paste colors
were a light green-brown consistent with natural henna products.
#7.
This product was the “red henna” product of three sold by the
company: Red (henna), Neutral (cassia), and Black (indigo). One might
assume that the products are sold for the purpose of mixing, much
like Ancient Sunrise plant dye powders, but it is not clear. The
powder was of a light green color with pieces of plant fiber visible.
The powder had an odor consistent with henna, but the product frothed
when mixed with liquid. The paste was quite gritty.
#8.
This product was labeled as 100% natural henna. The color was of a
light greenish straw tone, along the lines of a standard henna powder
color. In color, it was the sample most similar to the AS sample.
When mixed with liquid, the resulting paste was noticeable gritty,
but with some mucilage. There was no herbal scent.
#9. The
product was also labeled as 100% natural henna. The color of the
powder was deeper than what might be accepted from a henna powder,
almost a muddy green. The powder appeared fairly well sifted, with
some very thin, long plant fibers visible. The paste was fairly
smooth but not slimy, and a mid-brown color. There was no herbal
odor.
AS.
This powder is finely sifted, soft to the touch, and a pale green
color. No large leaf or stem pieces or fibers as visible. There is a
faint dried-hay scent. The paste was a clay-green color had a smooth,
slimy texture. In fact, in comparison the other samples, this sample
took more focus to apply the paste to paper chromatography strips
because of its mucous-like texture.
Chromatography
Paper chromatography
is a simple method used to separate dyes in order to determine the
presence of one or more dyes. The method involves placing a small
sample of a substance onto a thin strip of absorbent paper, then
hanging the strip so the end of it is just below the surface of a
liquid solvent.
As the solvent travels up the strip, dyes move along with it. Dyes which differ in chemical structure will move at different rates before stopping. The result is that each individual dye will create its own mark at a certain place between the point of application and the solvent front (the highest point that the solvent reaches). Multiple dyes will show as multiple marks.
Below is the result of a paper chromatography test done on store-bought food coloring. One can see that the green dye is a combination of yellow and blue dyes, which were separated through the chromatography process.
One drawback of the
simpler paper chromatography method is that it alone cannot identify
the dye in each sample unless the target dye is already known.
Because Ancient Sunrise henna powders are tested by an independent
lab, it can be assumed that the only dye present is lawsone, which
will show a dye band distinct from other dyes’ banding. If a
product results in one or more bands that appear different from
lawsone, it can be assumed that other dyes are present.
It was necessary to test each product under multiple conditions to achieve as full a picture as possible. Because the target dyes involved were unknown, it was not possible to test for specific dyes. Instead, each sample was tested multiple times. Depending on the nature of the solvent used, different dye bands were more or less visible on the results.
Chromatography
Process
Unlike
chromatography tests in which the target dye is known, here we are
looking for the presence of dyes, whatever they may be. While we want
to see the presence of lawsone, we also want to see what else may be
there. “Henna” products may contain a wide variety of unknown
dyes, some of which react to some solvents but not others. While a
dye may show up on one type of test, it may not at all in another.
Therefore, multiple solvents and solvent strengths should be used.
Pre-trial tests were conducted to determine which solvents and solvent strengths yielded the most useful results. Solvent type and strength also affected how long the sample strips were left in the tank before being removed. Leaving samples in the tank too long can risk dyes being “bleached out” by the solvents so that results became unclear. Pre-trial tests helped to determine the best processing times.
The most conclusive
results came from sampling the pastes with the following solvents,
strengths, and times:
1. 99% isopropyl alcohol for 20 minutes
2. 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water for 15 minutes
3. 1:1 mixture of acetone and distilled water for 15 minutes
It was found that
100% acetone moved so quickly up the paper strips that no useful
results were obtained. Therefore, samples on 100% acetone will not be
reported in this article.
First, each product
was made into a paste following classic henna dye-release methods,
which will be described in more detail below. In addition, to account
for the possibility of time and acidity breaking down any non-lawsone
dyes, each product was tested again by mixing each powder with only
distilled water and testing immediately.
Below are the methods and results of each set.
Set 1: Dye
Released Paste Samples
The Lawsone
Molecule in Henna
The molecule responsible for the orange/red color achieved by henna is called lawsone. In the henna plant, lawsone precursors exist. When the plant powder is mixed with a mildly acidic mix, the precursors are released as intermediary aglycone molecules in the process that is commonly known as dye release. Aglycones can release in a water-only mixture as well but will oxidize to their final stable state very quickly. The additional hydrogen atoms present in acidic liquid allow the aglycones to stay in their intermediate state longer so that the dye can release more fully before it is applied to the hair. Lawsone in its final state is oxidized and unable to bond to keratin.
The process of oxidation is what gives henna its final color. This is why hair is often lighter and brighter initially after rinsing henna. The color deepens over the course of subsequent days. When the dye molecules in henna paste oxidize before bonding to keratin, this is called demise. This is why pure lawsone on its own is useless as a hair dye.
In a mildly acidic liquid, the lawsone precursor (center) is maintained so that it can attach to keratin, after which it oxidizes to its final state (right).
Mixing and Dye
Release
Each powder sample
was mixed with a prepared solution of distilled water and lemon
juice. Lemon juice was added to distilled water until the solution
showed a pH of roughly 5.5, as indicated on a litmus strip. The
resulting solution was 10 parts distilled water to 1 part lemon
juice, or 100ml distilled water and 10ml lemon juice.
Five grams of each
powder sample was mixed with the acidic solution to form a paste. The
acidic solution was added first to the AS sample to determine an
appropriate ratio for creating a paste similar to one that would be
used for coloring hair. Thus, the result was 15ml acidic solution for
each 5g powder sample*. All prepared pastes were kept in air-tight
dark glass jars to prevent excess exposure to oxygen and light.
Starting from the moment the final paste was mixed and sealed, all
samples were left at 65 degrees Fahrenheit for 12.5 hours for dye
release.
*Due to each powder sample varying in particle sift, some pastes were thinner or thicker than others. The variation in paste viscosity may have been a slight factor in test results, but not in any way that could lead to false results.
Set 1 Process
After dye release, a small amount of each sample was applied to paper chromatography strips 0.5 inches from the base of each strip. When not being used, all samples were kept refrigerated at approximately 37-40 degrees Fahrenheit. All samples were tested within 48 hours of dye release. Strips were hung in a glass chromatography tank containing a selected solvent so that the bottom edge of the strips sat just under the surface of the solvent. A glass plate was placed over the top of the tank to reduce airflow. After the determined time, the strips were removed and analyzed.
Below is a short time-lapse video showing how the sample traveled with the solvent. This particular set shows one paper strip for each sample and five strips at a time. One minute of real time is translated to one second of time in the video.
Results
These images show
results comparing all paste samples across solvents and times.
Samples are all tested numerous times, but for the sake of visual
reporting, one or two paper strips of each sample for each test were
chosen based on which were the most representative of the group.
Outliers were those whose results appeared least like the others,
most likely due to an odd variation in the paper strip causing
inconsistent solvent wicking. These were disregarded. The remainders
showed consistent results with little variation.
99% Isopropyl Alcohol for 20 Minutes
One can see that all
of these strips show mostly pale dyes that range from green to orange
to light brown, and that few show clear dye bands below the solvent
front. In the world of chromatography, most of these would not be
usable results. However, for our purposes, they are interesting. This
is because we know that lawsone does not show much color in its
intermediate aglycone state. The presence of water can cause
oxidation of the aglycone to its stable final form. So, when using an
anhydrous solvent, it would be expected that the dye does not turn up
bright orange. If it does, it might suggest that final-state
(oxidized) lawsone was present in the product, or that an orange dye
other than lawsone was added to the product.
If you are familiar
with the process of coloring your hair with henna, you will know that
the final color result takes a few days to mature. The lawsone
molecule exists in a precursor state called an aglycone when it is
mixed in an acidic paste and allowed to dye release. As long as the
paste is not exposed to oxygen, and if it is not left to demise, most
of these molecules remain aglycones. It is through the process of
bonding to the keratin in your hair, and to the oxygen molecules in
the air that they become stable lawsone molecules, and you see the
deeper color. This is also why henna paste applied to the skin is
left for several hours, and the design deepens over the following
days.
BUT, if a lower quality henna powder is “fixed” with added lawsone, that lawsone would be the stable-molecule type. This is sometimes done by henna sellers to make the product appear to have a higher lawsone content, or as an attempt to make the product more effective. Manufacturers and distributors who do not have a solid understanding of the chemistry of henna do not realize that adding lawsone will do nothing to the efficacy of the product. Stable lawsone will not bind to the hair because it has lost the hydrogens necessary to create a bond. Only the aglycone lawsone molecules released from henna powder by an acidic liquid have the ability to bind to keratin.
One can see that out
of all of the other samples, AS (shown above) is one of the palest,
nearly a yellow-green color, and almost seems to form a band below
the solvent front. Virtually no dye remains near the application
point. This indicates two things: first, that there was little to no
oxidized lawsone in the paste sample. Second, the fact that the block
of space between the paste application line and the solvent front is
so “clean” suggests that there is only one type of dye at one
point of chemical state. We know that this dye is lawsone in an
aglycone state. The more dyes involved, the muddier the strip may
appear, as it will show evidence of several observable dyes, or dyes
in several molecular states. In fact, even a product that contains a
nothing else but a blend of several different hennas would most
likely show variation due to those dyes being just slightly different
from each other.
Samples such as #2, 6, and 8 are more orange, and also show darker bands right above the sample application sites. The muddy brown band is very prominent in #6. In fact, all samples except for AS showed some level of banding that hugged the paste sample when tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol. This happens when there is a dye present which does not move well with the selected solvent and which prefers to stay low with the sample. Lack of dye movement in itself is not necessarily bad, and is simply indicative of the relationship between the dye and the solvent; however, because we can see that this did not happen with the AS sample, we can guess that those other powders contained something that AS did not.
Closeups of samples #2, #6, and #8.
Both #2 and #6 are particularly orange, which again suggests the presence of either added lawsone or another dye that comes up orange under these conditions. If we revisit the image of those powders prior to mixing, sample #2 especially is of a darker color. #6 and #8 are lighter, but still border on what would be a normal color for henna powder. It is possible that these three products have added lawsone or another orange dye.
#4 is very interesting, and will continue to be interesting as we go along. There is very clearly the presence of a red dye that is not lawsone. It is a vivid red which appears just above the application point. If you revisit the earlier sections of this article which show the powders and pastes, #4 is a vivid red color as both powder and paste.
#9 shows the
presence of a green-blue dye which appears as faint streaks closer to
the base of the strips. The solvent front also shows the same color
near the edges. In addition, there is a deeper, brown band that stays
just above the application point.
#7 also shows a faint green tint similar to #9, but there are no noticeable blue-green bands. Some green tones can be expected due to the presence of chlorophyll in the plant powders. Therefore, a green color does not guarantee the presence of an added dye. However, the blue-green streaks present in sample #9 are not consistent with chlorophyll.
1:1 Dilutions for 15 Minutes
In comparison, dye
bands were more visible when pastes were tested with equal parts
solvent and distilled water. This is because water causes the lawsone
dye to oxidize, turning the dye a deeper orange. In fact, the dye
stained the paper strip as it moved upward with the solvent.
Water alone was not an effective solvent because the dye did not travel with it quickly enough. Pure solvent, on the other hand, pulled the dye too quickly, leaving little to no banding, as was shown by the 99% isopropyl alcohol set. By combining distilled water and solvent, both dye oxidation and dye movement was achieved in a way that showed visible dye bands.
In the image above,
A and B labels indicate results for 1:1 isopropyl alcohol/water and
1:1 acetone/water respectively. Both were left in the tank for 15
minutes. Results were generally similar for both solvent dilutions.
In comparison to
99% isopropyl alcohol, results from 1:1 dilutions were deeper orange
with dye bands visible on most samples. While they are still faint,
the banding for lawsone can be seen as stripes of deeper color just
below the solvent front.
One can see that
the AS sample remained relatively pale, and that the dye seemed to
move more cleanly away from the application line, leaving lighter
streaks where little or no dye stained the paper.
Sample #4 clearly
shows the presence of a red dye along with lawsone. There is a bright
red band that stays near the application line. The band moved higher
in the 1:1 acetone/water sample, but both tests show separate red and
orange bands.
Sample #2 shows a
significantly darker dye which creates a nearly solid stain from
application line to solvent front. There is a band near the top which
could be lawsone. If you look closely, there is a slightly deeper
orange band that stays near the application line. This suggests that
there may be an additional orange dye along with lawsone. Sample #1
also shows a darker color in comparison to other samples, which may
suggest the presence of additional dyes.
Another notable detail is the color of the paste samples at the application line after processing. Many are bleached out as the solvent pulls the dye from the sample. The AS application line is the palest. Samples #2 and #4, however, remained very dark. This is another reason to believe that additional dyes besides lawsone were present.
Sample #9, which show blue-green dye streaks when processed with 99% isopropyl alcohol, changed significantly when processed with 1:1 dilutions. Most likely the faint blue-green dye was overpowered by the orange stain.
Top: Sample #9 Tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol. A blue-green dye is visible. Bottom: Sample #9 tested with 1:1 isopropyl alcohol/water and 1:1 acetone and water respectively. The blue-green dye is no longer visible.
Set 2: Powder and
Water Samples
It is important to
note that all samples were treated as if they were 100% pure henna
powder– that they contained no additional dyes or acids, and that
they would require an acidic solution and dye release time. This was
done to keep results consistent.
However, there was
the possibility that added water-soluble dyes were present which
could have been broken down by the acidic solution, or by sitting too
long after mixing. Thus, the same process was repeated with paste
samples made from just distilled water. These samples were tested
immediately after mixing, with no wait time.
Theoretically, this
set would show very little lawsone especially in the 99% isopropyl
alcohol condition, as the henna would not have had much chance to
release lawsone in its aglycone precursor state. The 1:1 dilutions
may still provide an environment for a fast release/oxidation of
lawsone, but some additional dyes may be better seen than in Set 1,
if they were affected by the acidity and/or 12 hour wait.
For each sample, 1g
powder was mixed with 3ml distilled water. The paste was stirred
until a uniform consistency was achieved, then a small amount was
immediately applied to paper chromatography strips and tested with
the same solvents and times as Set 1. To repeat, the conditions were
as follows:
1. 99% isopropyl alcohol for 20 minutes
2. 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and distilled water for 15 minutes
3. 1:1 mixture of acetone and distilled water for 15 minutes
New paste was made for each solvent condition so that each sample was tested immediately after mixing with water.
Results
99% Isopropyl Alcohol for 20 Minutes
Results for powder-and-water samples immediately tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol.
The image above shows results for powders mixed with distilled water only and immediately tested in 99% isopropyl alcohol. Unlike the results of dye-released pastes tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol, samples mixed with only water showed consistent bands rising to just above the application point. Less dye traveled upward with the solvent, leaving paler tones near the solvent front. Below is the image for dye-released pastes tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol for comparison.
Notable results for
this set are those of samples #2, #4, and #9.
Sample #2 appears
more vividly orange than all other samples. This occurs in both the
dye-released set and the water-only set. There is strong evidence for
an added orange colored dye, lawsone or otherwise.
Sample #4 shows the same red dye that has been apparent in all tests. Because more red dye traveled with the solvent in the water-only set in comparison to the dye-released set, this is most likely a dye which is affected by pH and/or time.
Left: Sample #2 mixed with water and tested in 99% isopropyl alcohol. Right: Sample #4 mixed with water and tested in 99% isopropyl alcohol.
The faint green-blue dye that was noticeable in previous tests of sample #9 is particularly present in this condition. It was especially noticeable during processing. In the image below, all four strips show streaks of green-blue dye traveling upward with the solvent. The clearest is the strip second from the right.
After the strips were left in the glass tank for a full twenty minutes, the dye had collected at the solvent front. Some dyes streaks can also be seen rising just a few millimeters out of the application point. Particles of the same color can also be seen within the paste. It is clear that the green-blue dye is some form of powder or crystal mixed into the product.
1:1 Dilutions for 15 Minutes
The paper chromatography results using equal parts water and acetone, and equal parts water and isopropyl alcohol appeared very similar to the results of the dye-released pastes tested with the same dilutions. Nothing additional was revealed that was already noted in the earlier tests. This may be because the distilled water present in the diluted solvents was enough to reveal water-soluble dyes.
Discussion
The purpose of this article was first: to
observe and report the visible qualities of each product, such as the
product packaging, and the color, scent, and texture of the product
both as a dry powder and after being mixed with liquid; and second:
to determine the existence of dyes other than lawsone or lawsone
precursor molecules through the use of paper chromatography.
None of the methods used in this article can
definitively determine the safety or quality of a product. Thus, it
is not our intention to rate, review, or suggest any product outside
of the Ancient Sunrise brand. The fact that some products appeared
similar to pure henna does not mean that they were void of additives
or adulterants not shown by these tests. Paper chromatography cannot
show the presence of non-dye chemicals such as pesticides. Given
those disclaimers, let’s jump into what was observed.
The
presence of red, orange, and green dyes in some samples indicate that
those products included additional ingredients besides pure henna
powder. While all of the samples tested showed the presence of some
lawsone, many samples displayed results inconsistent with the AS
sample which we know to be 100% pure henna powder. When dye-released
pastes were tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol, all samples except AS
showed dye that did not move with the solvent, staying low to the
application line. Some samples were much darker in color, which is
inconsistent with the pale yellow-green color that would appear with
lawsone in a precursor state. It is unclear if some samples included
oxidized lawsone, and whether that lawsone was added during
manufacturing or if other conditions such as the age or storage of
the product may have led to the presence of oxidized lawsone.
Sample #2 showed a very deep orange color in all solvent conditions. When tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol, the deeper color dye was visible just above the application site. In 1:1 dilution tests, the dye traveled further up the strip, staining the strip orange from application to just under the solvent front. This suggests that there is an added water-soluble orange dye present in sample #2.
Sample #4 as a powder, as a paste, and when tested with 1:1 solvent dilutions.
Blue-green dye was visible in sample #9 when tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol. In diluted solvent conditions, the blue-green dye was no longer visible. This type of dye was most likely added to give the powder a greener color, rather than to affect the color outcome on the hair.
Left: Sample #9 tested with 99% isopropyl alcohol. Blue-green dye is visible. Right: Sample #9 tested with 1:1 dilutions. The lawsone staining overpowers blue-green dye visibility.
Comparison between sample #9 powder (left) and AS powder (right).
Because there is a marketing claim that a greener henna powder is fresher, adding green dye to henna powder is not an uncommon practice. Detailed information about henna powders “polished” with green dye can be found on page 39 of Chapter Four: Henna Science and Microscopy. Ironically enough, sample #9 was among the darker colored powders and pastes in the group, so the addition of green dye did not seem to do what it intended. Below is an image at 60x magnification of a henna powder which shows added green dye.
A sample of henna powder under a microscope. Green dye powder or dyed sand is mixed into this sample.
Limitations
and Considerations
Paper
chromatography is only one type of chromatography, and not as exact
as methods accessible in a certified laboratory. High-performance
thin-layer chromatography, for example, is capable of separating dyes
into much clearer bands, and then a scientist can calculate and
compare the distance of those bands between the application point and
solvent front to determine more about the nature of each dye. In many
cases, reactants can be applied to chromatography results to cause
substances to be visible if they are not already. Access to such
methods would have been beneficial. An example of high-performance
thin-layer chromatography can bee seen on page 22 in Henna
Science and Microscopy.
Additionally, some
samples varied in age, which can affect the quality of a powder to
some degree. That being said, pure henna products have a shelf life
of several years as long as they are kept sealed and in a cool, dry
environment. Because the products tested may have contained
additional unknown ingredients, it is difficult to say whether those
specific non-henna ingredients may have broken down or changed with
time.
Commercial hair dye companies are slowly learning a painful secret: “Fast, easy, and cheap” has been beneficial for business for just over a century, but will not be sustainable in the coming decades.
The majority of permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes available in stores and used in salons contain para-phenylenediamine (PPD). PPD, a coal-tar derivative dye, was first used as a commercial fur dye until consumers quickly realized that they could use it on their own hair [1]. PPD-based hair dyes entered the market at the turn of the 20th century. Oxidative hair dyes could be made in a range of colors. The products were easy to use and worked quickly. The color result was relatively permanent. These features made PPD dyes very attractive.
Oscar Wilde was one of the first public figures believed to be sensitized to PPD. Repeated exposures, and/or exposures to high concentrations of PPD lead to sensitization and allergic reaction. This can happen to anyone. As with other allergens, a person can be born allergic to PPD, or that person can develop a sensitivity after exposure. Only about 1.5% of the population is born allergic to PPD. The rest are sensitized through exposure. Kligman’s study showed that 100% of subjects developed a sensitization to PPD after five or fewer patch tests of a 10% PPD mixture [2]. Although sensitization rates vary depending on demographics, country, and gender, conservative estimates say around the numbers are around 6.2% in North America, 4% in Europe, and 4.3% in Asia [3].
The PPD Era
Prior to 1934, there was no restriction on the concentration of para-phenylenediamine allowed in beauty products. It was even in eyelash tints, which led to corneal ulcerations and conjunctivitis [4]. One such product, LashLure, ended up in an installation at the 1933 Chicago world’s fair called “The Chamber of Horrors.” This installation, set up by the FDA, exposed dangerous products. Although doctors, manufacturers, and some consumers were aware of the dangers of PPD hair dyes from the very beginning, they continue to be sold in the United States. While products containing higher than 6% PPD are now illegal, it is still easy enough to find highly concentrated, powdered PPD hair dye products online and in local ethnic grocery stores. Certain countries such as France, Germany, and Sweden have banned PPD products altogether [5].
An advertisement for hair dye from 1885.
PPD sensitization rates have risen. It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of the western population will be sensitized [6]. This means that fewer people will be able to use oxidative hair dyes and other products containing PPD; hair dye companies will see a loss in their customer base. These companies will also see increased reports of injury, and increasing numbers of lawsuits.
Commercial hair dye companies are now showing interest in returning to a practice that has existed for thousands of years: Dyeing hair with henna and other plant dye powders. For example, L’Oreal recently announced its plans to release a line called Botanea, an all-natural and vegan hair dye line based on henna, indigo, and cassia. Other companies have also produced and marketed henna and plant-based dye products to varying degrees of success.
Whether this “new” return to plant dye powders will be successful to cosmetics corporations will depend highly on the ways they choose to produce and market the product, and how they plan to engage a population which has been dependent on oxidative dyes for so long. Not only will it require these companies to learn the science behind this completely different technique, but to also admit and come to terms with the danger of PPD which they have denied for over a hundred years. Finally, it will also call for the development of henna farms and mills in areas where henna crops will thrive, and the establishment of high standards for exported products.
PPD Sensitization as an Epidemic
In the past decades, we have seen a rise in the rate of PPD sensitization. Not only are more people developing reactions to PPD, but their ages are getting younger. This is correlated with the popularity of “black henna” tattoos in tourist areas, as well as the increase of young people using hair dyes [7]. Catherine Cartwright-Jones, Ph.D. explores this epidemic in detail in her dissertation, “The Geographies of the Black Henna Meme Organism and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization: A Qualitative History.”
“Black henna” is nothing but a concentrated PPD hair dye mixture, applied directly to the skin. Hair dyes in the United States contain up to 6% PPD. These “black henna” mixtures can contain 25% PPD concentration or higher, enough to sensitize a person within one application. The use of PPD on the skin is illegal in the United States, but “black henna” stalls are very common in tourist areas, and the law is not actively enforced.
The practice of using concentrated hair dye to create designs on the skin began in North Africa in the 1970s, and by the 1990s it was popular in western tourist destinations such as resorts, amusement parks, and boardwalks. When a child or young adult gets a “black henna tattoo” while on vacation, then, years later, uses a commercial hair dye containing PPD, they can experience a reaction serious enough to land them in the hospital. To learn more about PPD sensitization, read What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD).
These powdered hair dyes contain concentrated PPD and are easily available online and in local stores despite restrictions.
PPD is also used in printing, the manufacturing of black rubber, and many other industries and products. From the start, doctors and scientists were concerned about the negative effects of PPD and warned consumers of its dangers [8]. However, on November 2, 1934, the FDA struck up an agreement that hair dyes could contain up to a 6% concentration of PPD as long as the packaging contained adequate warning. Since then, the vast majority of permanent and semi-permanent hair dyes sold in stores and used in salons contain PPD.
Under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act), a law passed by Congress, color additives must be approved by FDA for their intended use before they are used in FDA-regulated products, including cosmetics. Other cosmetic ingredients do not need FDA approval. FDA can take action against a cosmetic on the market if it is harmful to consumers when used in the customary or expected way and used according to labeled directions.
How the law treats coal-tar hair dyes:
FDA cannot take action against a coal-tar hair dye, as long as the label includes a special caution statement and the product comes with adequate directions for consumers to do a skin test before they dye their hair. This is the caution statement: Caution – This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation on certain individuals and a preliminary test according to accompanying directions should first be made. This product must not be used for dyeing the eyelashes or eyebrows; to do so may cause blindness. (FD&C Act, 601(a))
Coal-tar hair dyes, unlike color additives in general, do not need FDA approval. (FD&C Act, 601(e)).”
What this means is that companies producing hair dyes containing 6% PPD or less, as long as they provide adequate warning and instructions for patch testing, are relatively well protected from injury suits. Despite numerous serious reactions to hair dye, and despite it being well-documented that PPD is a highly sensitizing compound responsible for the vast majority of hair dye allergies, these companies are widely immune to legal repercussions.
Taking The Hair Dye Giants to Court
There have been a number of attempts at lawsuits and class action suits against certain companies, such as several recent cases against Just For Men. Those involved in the class action suit against Just For Men believed that the company was intentionally targeting men of color in the marketing of their Jet Black dye, which contained a high level of PPD. Other cases posited that the patch test instructions were not sufficient for properly determining sensitivity prior to applying the dye.
The problem with patch-testing is that PPD often causes a delayed hypersensitivity reaction whose onset may not occur until several days after the test. Most patch tests advise waiting 24 hours. Some people experience no reaction following their first application, but have been sensitized to future reactions. This lack of initial reaction leads to serious consequences when that person, unaware of their new allergy, is exposed to PPD again. Many people who experience severe reactions to hair dye had gotten a “black henna” tattoo earlier in their life. In the case of products sold to men for hair and beard use, a consumer may find that they do not react when conducting a patch test on the inner arm, but experience a reaction on their face, where the skin is thin, sensitive, and potentially abraded from grooming.
The required warning and patch test advisory on a package of Just For Men hair and beard dye.
Lawyers defending hair dye companies have used PPD’s delayed reaction to their advantage, by insisting that there is no way to tell for sure whether the product caused the reaction, if the reaction did not appear until several days after the customer used the product.
One of the first legal suits against a hair-dye company was that of hairdresser Pauline Karr against Inecto Notox Rapid in 1926. Notox was aggressively marketed as a safe and harmless dye which could be easily applied at home. Despite the fact that companies, consumers, and doctors were already aware of the dangers of PPD, Inecto and other companies did not disclose their products ingredients; at that time, they were not legally required to do so, as the formula was protected as a trade secret.
The dye dripped onto Karr’s finger, staining it black, and she experienced a severe reaction twelve hours later. Karr lost the use of that finger, and sued Inecto. The company won on appeal. Inecto’s lawyers argued that there was no way to prove that the product itself caused the reaction that occurred twelve hours later, and that the company was so large and successful, with thousands of products sold, that there was no way that the dye could be unsafe. Because the company claimed that its formula was the reason for its success, they believed that they were under no obligation to divulge the dye’s ingredients.
This reasoning was used time and time again in following suits. Hair dye companies claim that any injury cannot be reasonably linked to the use of the product itself, and that if any injury does come about from the product, it must be due to misuse on the consumer’s part. Now with the FDA’s stance, hair dye companies are safe from legal repercussion as long as the dye contains 6% or less PPD, and they have adequate warnings on their product labels.
In some rare cases, the plaintiff wins against the company, such as Falk vs. Inecto in 1927. Falk’s lawyer claimed that Inecto Notox Rapid hair dye contained toxic and dangerous substances and that the company was negligent in marketing it as a safe, non-toxic product.
NOTOX “assures absolute naturalness” and claims to be “composed of mild organic ingredients.”
The End of the PPD Hair Dye Era
What commercial hair dye companies are not immune to, however, is a loss in customer base. It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of the adult western population will be sensitized to PPD. 7% of the population will experience a reaction serious enough to require hospitalization [6]. People working in industries where they are regularly exposed to PPD, such as hair styling, fur-dyeing, black rubber manufacturing, and printing, are at higher risk of sensitization. Many hair stylists have had to quit after no longer being able to handle hair dyes. Those who develop a sensitization to PPD have it for life, and will experience reactions to products outside of hair dye, which contain PPD or ingredients involved in cross-reactions.
These companies are not ignorant of the facts. They know that people experience reactions after using hair dye containing PPD. They know that sensitization to hair dye is related to “black henna” tattoos. PPD was named allergen of the year in 2006. Scientists and doctors have long studied the connection between hair dye and contact dermatitis, and delayed-reaction sensitization. Despite this, the beauty industry giants hire their own researchers to put out articles insisting that PPD is safe [9].
Henna, Cassia, and Indigo plant dye powders have been used to naturally color the hair for thousands of years. When used in the right ratios, these three plant powders can produce an infinite range of natural hair colors, from blonde to jet black. Henna was particularly popular during La Belle Epoque– the end of the 1800s and the beginning of the 1900s. Artists like Toulouse Lautrec painted women with beautifully vivid red hair. Hennaed hair was seen as sensual and exotic.
Henna was upstaged by PPD hair dyes during the mid-1900s, as PPD was cheap, easy to use, and provided fast results. Hair dye companies selling henna attempted to make the process easier for the western customer base by creating compound henna products. These products contained metallic salts and other additives meant to alter the color results and make up for low-quality plant powders. As henna powder imports decreased during WWI and WWII, compound henna products were a way to cheapen the product. These additives had nasty effects, especially when oxidative hair dyes or lighteners were applied over hair that was previously dyed with compound henna. Thus, henna’s reputation was sullied. Henna was associated with dirtiness, backwardness, and brassy, orange hair. Many stylists associate still these negative effects with henna itself, rather than the additives contained in compound henna. The use of pure plant powders as hair dye is not taught in cosmetology schools, while the negative bias toward henna is perpetuated. It is common for stylists to refuse to work on hair that has been hennaed.
But the customer base for commercial hair dyes is shrinking as PPD sensitization spreads. Companies have responded by creating and marketing hair dyes that are “PPD free.” These dyes, though they do not contain para-phenylenediamine, use a molecularly similar ingredient instead, such as para-toluenediamine. Para-toluenediamine is another coal-tar dye within the same molecular family. Is still sensitizing, though less so. Whether a person is sensitive to PPD or PTD, cross-sensitization will still occur. This means that many “PPD free” hair dyes are still unsafe, especially for those who have a PPD sensitivity. PPD sensitivities can also lead to cross-reactions with a number of other materials, such as certain fabric dyes, synthetic fragrances, anesthetics,
PPD also goes by a number of different names. Companies may list para-phenylenediamine under a lesser-known name to make their product appear safer. Here are alternative names for PPD:
PPDA
Phenylenediamine base
p-Phenylenediamine
4-Phenylenediamine
1,4-Phenylenediamine
4-Benzenediamine
1,4-Benzenediamine
para-Diaminobenzene (p-Diaminobenzene)
para-Aminoaniline (p-Aminoaniline) [10]
Other consumers, whether or not they have a PPD allergy, are simply looking for more natural, or “chemical free” products. We are entering an era in which consumers are more health-conscious, more environmentally-conscious, and more wary of large corporations. People no longer want to blindly buy products, but instead choose to do research, read reviews, and read labels. Companies respond by altering their packaging, releasing new products that appear to be healthier, safer, or containing an exotic, natural ingredient. However, there is no regulation on words like, “natural,” or “pure.” Just because a product contains a natural ingredient does not make it any safer. In the same logic, one could add a plant extract to antifreeze and call it “natural.”
An old shampoo advertisement marketing new “exotic formulas.”
Certain cosmetic companies are now looking into attempting what Ancient Sunrise® has done for years: providing pure plant powder hair dye. If done correctly, this change can be a win in the battle against PPD. But the emphasis is on correctly. We have already seen what happens when henna is manipulated with additives for the sake of “cheap and easy.” Henna does not work well with short-cuts. If these companies wish to be successful, they must take the time to understand the art, science, and culture of the natural hair dye world. Failing to do so will result in a waste of time and resources, and potentially an additional blow to the reputation of henna for hair.
What Must Happen For A Successful Transition
Here is what cosmetic companies will need to understand in order to bring henna for hair into the mainstream market:
1. Henna Has its Own Science That Cannot Be Messed With
In their attempts to sell henna, the biggest mistake that commercial hair dye companies fall into time and time again is their attempt to make it quicker and easier to use. They assume that western consumers want simple, quick-fix solutions and are incapable of using a product that requires too many steps.
We have seen the damage that compound henna products have done, both to the hair of the consumer, and to the reputation of henna. Adding metallic salts to henna will not work. “Henna” products that are sold as a liquid or cream are anything but henna. They may contain some henna (or henna extract, whatever that means), but it is unlikely that the plant dye is doing much of the work. Many of these products contain commercial dyes, either coal-tar derived, or azo-dyes. Any natural plant ingredient is there to make the product seem healthier, whether or not the ingredient is even necessary or useful in hair dye. All of the exotic oils, dried flowers, and cocoa powder in the world cannot fix a formula based on bad science.
Other companies sell pre-mixed powders containing henna, indigo, cassia, and other plant ingredients all combined into one. These products may recommend mixing the powder with hot water. This will not work because henna and indigo require different dye-release processes to work effectively. Henna must be dye-released with a mildly acidic liquid and left at room temperature for several hours before application. Indigo must be mixed with a neutral or slightly alkaline liquid, and used right away. Thus, a pre-mixed product mixed with hot water will yield undesired results, and fade rapidly.
Some companies offer oil-based “bars” that contain henna and other plant dyes, and are meant to be mixed with water and melted down. Again, these products are an example of bad science. Oil prevents the dye molecules from binding to the hair shaft. The result is, again, far from the desired color and quick to fade.
Plant dye powders cannot be mixed. Extra ingredients, either “chemical” or “natural,” are not necessary. The process cannot be sped up. Cutting corners leads to inferior results. Companies must understand that if they want to bring henna and natural hair dye back to the market in an effective and successful way, they must accept that consumers are capable of and willing to learn the science. Ancient Sunrise® has been doing this for years. Its customer base continues to grow. By providing well-researched resources, attentive customer support, and pure, unadulterated plant dye powders, Ancient Sunrise® has built a community of educated consumers who enjoy healthy, PPD-free color.
2. Henna for Hair is Highly Individualized
It will not work to force henna for hair into a one-size-fits-all model. Henna, indigo, and cassia all create a translucent stain on the hair. Unlike oxidative dyes which can lift the hair color with ammonia and peroxide, plant dyes cannot cause the hair to be any lighter. Thus, the result is highly dependent on each person’s initial hair color.
Other factors such as a person’s hair texture and condition, body chemistry, local water supply, and personal lifestyle may also affect color results. Therefore, it will not work to slap a color swatch onto a package and claim that that is the result a customer should expect. While many henna-users achieve their desired results within the first or second try, others will need to adjust their recipes and techniques until they find what works best for them.
Henna is at the center of most natural hair dye mixes. Alone, it stains light hair red, copper, or auburn. Indigo is used alongside henna to create brunette shades. It can also be applied separately after henna to dye the hair black. Cassia adds golden tones and is the primary dye in blond mixes. To learn more about plant dyes for hair, read Ancient Sunrise® Chapter 5: Plants that Dye Hair.
Off-the-shelf home hair dye kits normally contain two or more bottles containing liquids that are to be combined and then applied. The process does not require much thought on the part of the customer. Henna for hair, on the other hand, involves combining up to three types of plant dye powders in a specific ratio to achieve a certain color. These powders must be packaged individually. When companies try to create henna-based products that mimic the easy application process of commercial hair dyes, the results are inferior.
Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits provide individually packaged plant dye powders at the correct ratios to achieve a wide range of natural colors.
Because individual differences add so many variables to hennaing hair, both companies and consumers must be aware that it takes patience and communication to achieve the best results. If a customer simply picks up a henna for hair product off the shelf, tries it, and doesn’t like the results, they may never try henna again. They might never know why it didn’t work the way they wanted it to, and what they could have done differently to get the result they wanted.
This is why it essential to create a community of knowledgeable henna-users, and to have this community become part of the mainstream hair and beauty culture. Such communities exist for African-textured hair, for people who grow their hair long, for people who abstain from commercial shampoos, and so on. The Ancient Sunrise® Henna group on Facebook is very active and has over 3750 members. This number increases daily. In this group, members share before and after photos, ask questions, and guide each other. When a question is particularly specific or complex, the Ancient Sunrise® customer service representatives act as the “experts”. They are trained in the science of henna for hair in such a way that they can create individualized mix recipes and offer advice, based on an assessment of a customer’s desires, troubles, and hair history.
Henna for hair is not possible without this kind of support system. Hennaing one’s hair was once common knowledge. Now, people may perm, bleach, and color their own hair at home using store-bought products, but they are largely unfamiliar with mixing and applying plant dye powders. Hair stylists have always functioned as ambassadors between the professional world of beauty, and the day-to-day consumer. If henna is to be successful, it will need to be taught to hair stylists in the same way oxidative dyes are taught. The bias against henna must end, and be replaced with more accurate information. If not, misinformation will spread and distrust will grow between stylists, and consumers who have chosen to switch to henna. The following section will suggest ways in which stylists can become leaders in the switch to plant dyes.
3. Changing the Culture Should Start with Stylists
Henna’s bad reputation continues to live on through the misinformation taught to and spread by hair stylists. This is not the stylists’ fault. Cosmetology texts contain the same out-of-date information in regards to henna that they have for decades. Cosmetologists come to know this misinformation as fact. The dangers associated with henna come from compound henna, where the culprits are metallic salts, not the henna itself. Compound henna products are, indeed, an absolute nightmare for the hair. Now, many stylists still believe that henna damages the hair, that it coats the hair and makes it brittle, and that the hair cannot be lightened once hennaed. In reality, henna is much safer and healthier for the hair. Oxidative dyes use chemicals to break past the keratin cuticle to deposit dye and to destroy melanin cells, thereby weakening both the internal and external structure of the hair strand [11, 12]. Henna, indigo, and cassia deposit dye that binds to the keratin at the outer layers of the strand, leaving the structure not only intact, but reinforced.
Time and time again, Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair users report that their stylists react negatively upon hearing that they use henna. They will scold their clients and try to persuade them to stop. Some stylists will refuse to work on hair that has been dyed with henna. This is understandable; because of the lack of regulation on products labeled as “henna,” it is nearly impossible to determine if the product the client previously used was truly safe, or whether it would react with other chemicals. While Ancient Sunrise® plant dye powders are all subjected to rigorous lab tests to ensure purity and safety, the same cannot be guaranteed by other brands.
Many stylists, however, see the wonderful color and condition of our clients’ hair and begin to develop an interest in henna. Several stylists are now offering Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair services in their own salons. Some have ceased using oxidative dyes altogether, and work exclusively with henna and other plant dyes. Ancient Sunrise® offers free resources and training, as well as a discount to salons and stylists who use our products in their work.
Lisa Marchesi-Hunter offers Ancient Sunrise® plant dye services in her salon in Sedona, Arizona. She and her client have given permission for the use of this image.
PPD sensitization occurs at high rates in the cosmetology industry because stylists expose themselves to hair dye regularly [13]. Many develop such severe reactions that they are no longer able to work as stylists. Henna for hair offers a unique opportunity for stylists who have been sensitized to PPD to continue doing what they love without the risk of allergic reaction. By training stylists in the use of plant dyes, not only will salons be able to offer new services to maintain and build their clientele, but they will be able to employ talented individuals who might otherwise have been forced to find new work.
Stylists have a special and unique relationship with their clients. They connect at a personal level, working with both the client’s appearance and emotions. The clients see them as friends, and also trust their knowledge of hair and beauty. Studies have been done on the use of salons and barbershops as venues for discussing other health issues, such as cardiovascular disease and prostate cancer [14, 15]. It is not absurd, then, to imagine that stylists can have discussions with their clients about switching from oxidative dyes to plant-based dyes, if the client is concerned about sensitization. Now, many doctors who are familiar with the benefits of henna recommend it to their patients who have hair dye allergies. However many of these patients have a hard time finding good products and solid information, and stylists who are willing to help them apply it. It will be of great benefit for more stylists to explore and embrace natural dyes.
4. Henna for Hair Will Require Education and A Shift in Culture
The world of beauty is fast-paced, and constantly innovating. Both professionals and customers are quick to pick up on new styles, products, and techniques. Social media helps to spread new trends quickly. While only a few years ago many people would have never heard of the terms, balayage, or ombré, these are now highly sought-after styles, illustrated by thousands of images on the internet and social media sites. Special communities share and discuss techniques for a variety of hair textures and needs. The same is happening now for henna, and must continue into the mainstream, if hair dye companies wish to be successful in selling henna, indigo, and cassia plant dye powders.
This is because the process of dyeing hair with plant dye powders cannot easily fit into a small pamphlet that accompanies a product. The current model of the store-bought hair dye market sets the company as the “expert” of knowledge that is seemingly too complicated for the average customer. The company is trusted to “know what is best” for the consumer, so the consumer can simply buy a product and apply it without question. With henna, a company cannot sell a secret formula; it must provide individually packaged, pure plant powders, along with the correct resources to help the consumer learn how to use them. It is the difference between selling a can of soup, and selling the raw ingredients and a solid recipe.
Henna for hair communities encourage consumers to take knowledge into their own hands. These customers want to know what they are putting on their bodies, and exactly how to create their desired look. They want to know not only how to do it, but how it works and why it works. This new model replaces the instructional pamphlet with active learning and interpersonal interactions. Henna users use resources and each other to perfect their techniques. Passive consumption is replaced with educated consumers making active decisions based on the information they share and seek out.
Where henna was originally used, women spent entire days together at public bathhouses where they would gather to clean themselves, relax, chat, and henna their hair. These techniques were passed from person to person, and from mother to child. Now, as people bathe and groom alone, the internet takes the place as the 21st century bathhouse.
If training is made available to stylists, either through elective additional programs, or within the cosmetology curriculum, stylists can then become trusted experts and ambassadors for plant dyes. This will require that the outdated misconceptions about henna be replaced with up-to-date information. This information is already freely available through Ancient Sunrise®. We have recently designed a training program which can visit salons interested in using the brand, educating stylists on the science and technique over the course of a few days. This program is adaptable to the size and needs of each individual business. The price is dependent on instructors’ time, materials, and travel costs.
Gwyn presents to a salon company in Italy. Photo credit: Maria Moore
As the more salons begin to offer natural, safe alternatives to PPD-based hair dyes, others will follow suit in order to compete in this new market. It is very likely that, if done correctly, plant-based hair dyeing will become commonplace in the hair styling industry. One day, the use of oxidative hair dyes may be an old-fashioned, backward practice.
5. Mainstreaming Henna Will Require a Reliable Source of High-Quality Product
If henna is to replace PPD dyes in the western market, there will need to be enough product to meet demands. Ideally, henna for hair should be regulated to ensure quality, consistency, and safety. The product should have to meet a standard for sift quality, as well as a standard for maximum allowable pesticides, added dyes, mineral content, and other chemical adulterants (ideally, this maximum should be close to zero). Quality regulation is essential because the reputation of henna has already been tainted by decades of bad product. Stylists and consumers must trust that these products are safe, that they will not damage their hair, and that they will not interact with other products in destructive ways. Pure henna can be lightened with chemical lightening agents. It can be dyed over with oxidative dyes. Adulterated henna products cannot.
Meeting a high demand for quality product will require the existence of enough farms and milling facilities that operate within the expected standards. Henna is grown in semi-arid climates. Countries such as India, Iran, Yemen, Sudan, and Morocco have grown and produced henna. Currently, the majority of exported henna comes from the Rajasthan area of India. Political, economic, and agricultural factors have caused many countries to decrease production and cease exporting henna. A growth in demand from the western market could greatly boost the agricultural economy of those nations interested in growing and exporting henna.
Henna is a hardy, drought-tolerant crop which does not require pesticides to thrive. The life of a henna shrub is about fifty years. Because only the leaves are harvested, the crop remains in the soil year after year. The plant’s dense, twisting root system prevents soil erosion. Henna is an ideal crop to grow in the southern boundary Sahel desert in Africa, where it can add to the “green wall” project preventing desert spread. As this region has ideal conditions for henna crops, it can present a great economic opportunity for those who live and work there. Building the henna industry there will require working with locals to establish farms and mills, and maintaining quality standards.
Currently, there are no regulations on products labeled “henna” coming into the United States. Much of the henna powder currently sold for hair is poorly sifted, stale, low dye-content henna, with large plant particulates, sand, and other debris. This makes the henna difficult to apply and rinse cleanly. Hair is left tangled and with poor color results. As stated before, many products contain additional chemical adulterants.
Henna is permitted by the FDA only as a hair dye, and not for use on skin. It will be beneficial to legalize pure henna plant powder for all uses and to set up regulations based on lab testing. This way, the United States can ensure that the product entering the country is free of harmful adulterants, and that only products that meet these standards can be sold as henna. These standards should include panels for heavy metals, metallic salts, minerals, and pesticides. Additional testing can regulate sift quality. Legalization and regulation will lead to safer products and wider availability.
A henna plant and its root system.
Final Notes
PPD sensitization is rising at a rate that will soon make the current hair dye industry unsustainable. A transition from oxidative hair dyes to pure plant dyes within the mainstream market is definitely possible, but it will require earnest effort on the part of those companies which seek to make it happen.
Hair dye companies will have to completely un-learn their previous ideas of what a hair dye is, and what their consumer expects a hair dye to be. They must engage with stylists and consumers to educate them on products and techniques which are far different from what is commonly used today. They must take the time to establish farms and facilities which are capable of putting out high-quality product.
Doing so will allow for more people to dye their hair safely and with beautiful, damage-free results. It will provide alternatives for both consumers and stylists who are sensitized to PPD. It will increase opportunities for economic development in those regions suitable for growing henna, and protect those regions from desert spread. It will prevent future allergies and injuries. Switching to henna is a common-sense, feasible solution, but one that must be executed with the utmost deliberation.
References
[1] Ashraf, Waseem, Shiela Dawling, and Lew J. Farrow. “Systemic paraphenylenediamine (PPD) poisoning: a case report and review.” Human & experimental toxicology 13, no. 3 (1994): 167-170.
[2] Kligman, Albert M. “The identification of contact allergens by human assay: III. The maximization test: A procedure for screening and rating contact sensitizers.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 47, no. 5 (1966): 393-409.
[3] Mukkanna, Krishna Sumanth, Natalie M. Stone, and John R. Ingram. “Para-phenylenediamine allergy: current perspectives on diagnosis and management.” Journal of asthma and allergy 10 (2017): 9
[4] McCally, A. W., A. G. Farmer, and E. C. Loomis. “Corneal ulceration following use of Lash-Lure.” Journal of the American Medical Association 101, no. 20 (1933): 1560-1561.
[5] Brancaccio, Ronald R., Lance H. Brown, Young Tae Chang, Joshua P. Fogelman, Erick A. Mafong, and David E. Cohen. “Identification and quantification of para-phenylenediamine in a temporary black henna tattoo.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 13, no. 1 (2002): 15-18.
[6] Smith, Vanessa M., Sheila M. Clark, and Mark Wilkinson. “Allergic contact dermatitis in children: trends in allergens, 10 years on. A retrospective study of 500 children tested between 2005 and 2014 in one UK centre.” Contact dermatitis 74, no. 1 (2016): 37-43.
[7] McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” (2007): 220-220.
[8] Wilbert, Martin I. “Cosmetics as Drugs: A Review of Some of the Reported Harmful Effects of the Ordinary Constituents of Widely Used Cosmetics.” Public Health Reports (1896-1970) (1915): 3059-3066.
[9] Nohynek, Gerhard J., Rolf Fautz, Florence Benech-Kieffer, and Herve Toutain. “Toxicity and human health risk of hair dyes.” Food and Chemical Toxicology 42, no. 4 (2004): 517-543.
[10] DermNet, N. Z. “Allergy to Paraphenylenediamine.” (2005).
[11]Ahn, Hyung Jin, and Won‐Soo Lee. “An ultrastuctural study of hair fiber damage and restoration following treatment with permanent hair dye.” International journal of dermatology 41, no. 2 (2002): 88-92.
[12] Sinclair, Rodney D. “Healthy hair: what is it?.” In Journal of investigative dermatology symposium proceedings, vol. 12, no. 2, pp. 2-5. Elsevier, 2007.
[13]Lind, Marie-Louise, Anders Boman, Jan Sollenberg, Stina Johnsson, Gunnel Hagelthorn, and Birgitta Meding. “Occupational dermal exposure to permanent hair dyes among hairdressers.” Annals of occupational hygiene 49, no. 6 (2005): 473-480.
[14] Releford, Bill J., Stanley K. Frencher Jr, Antronette K. Yancey, and Keith Norris. “Cardiovascular disease control through barbershops: design of a nationwide outreach program.” Journal of the National Medical Association 102, no. 4 (2010): 336.
[15] Luque, John S., Siddhartha Roy, Yelena N. Tarasenko, Levi Ross, Jarrett Johnson, and Clement K. Gwede. “Feasibility study of engaging barbershops for prostate cancer education in rural African-American communities.” Journal of Cancer Education 30, no. 4 (2015): 623-628.
People have been using plants and other materials to change the color of their hair long before commercial hair dyes were invented. The resurgence in natural and DIY beauty has led to a long and strange list of ingredients being mixed up and put on the hair. Many of these are food items. Others are borrowed from natural fabric dyeing. However, just because something is natural and has a color does not mean that it will 1) bind permanently to the hair strand, and/or 2) be safe to use on the hair.
Many plants which will dye fabric require simmering and/or being set with a mordant. Because one should not do either with the hair, it will not work the same way. Most foods are, well, best used as foods. Eat them, and you get nutrients and a happy tummy. Put them on your head, and you get a lot of food rinsed down the drain for very little effect.
There are very, very few dyes that are capable of binding to the hair in a permanent manner. Out of these, there are fewer which are safe (Hint: if it is effective and safe, we probably sell it at Mehandi.com). At a molecular level, a dye needs a small enough molecule or a chemical reaction to break past the keratin layers on the surface of the hair strand, and then oxidize into a larger molecule that cannot easily escape back out of the hair, binding it there permanently. This is what oxidative (store-bought) dyes do.
Dyes like henna and cassia bind to the hair via a Michael addition, facilitated by the low pH environment of the paste. Despite having beautiful, vivid colors, most plants cannot dye the hair because the molecule is too large. Without simmering for long periods of time or the use of a mordant to chemically bind the dye, the color simply sits atop the hair and will wash right out.
Below is a list, in alphabetical order, of the many things people attempt to use, either mixed into a henna treatment or on its own. Each item will be examined for the following questions: 1) Does it affect hair color? 2) Is the color change permanent? 3) Is it safe? Additionally, most will include explanations for how the ingredient came to exist in hair recipes if it is not safe or effective.
Amla
Amla does not contain a dye. When used to dye-release henna, it affects the resulting color of the henna by muting brighter tones. It assists a successful indigo bind by temporarily loosening the hydrogen bonds in the hair, allowing more dye to enter. Real amla is safe. If an amla product claims to change the color of the hair, it may contain other ingredients, and may not be safe.
Beets
Beets will stain your hands, change the color of your urine, and can dye fabric when simmered and used with a mordant. Because you do not want to simmer and use mordants on your hair, you cannot achieve a permanent stain using beets. It is safe but will do nothing for your hair.
Black Tea
Many natural hair blogs claim that strong black tea will darken your hair. If it does, the result will be very subtle, and very temporary. Some people use black tea as their acidic liquid for henna, but it is generally not quite acidic enough for a good dye release. A strong brew of black tea may cause caffeine jitters when absorbed through the scalp. Relatively safe; not effective for hair coloring.
Blueberry
On its own, blueberries or blueberry juice will not create a noticeable change in your hair color. Added to henna as a dye-releasing liquid, the anthocyanins in blueberry juice will add a subtle ash tone to the color to cool it. This effect may fade over time. It is safe, but subtle and not permanent. Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder is made from powdered purple aronia fruit, which is like a hardcore version of the blueberry.
Buxus (Katam)
Buxus is mixed with henna in the same way that indigo is, to create soft brunette tones. It is safe. Here’s the problem: Buxus was produced in Yemen, which is under civil conflict. There are few if any producers of buxus left, and Yemen is not exporting goods to the US at this time. If you find anyone claiming to sell buxus, it is most likely a mixture of henna and indigo or some other type of counterfeit.
Calendula
Calendula is a bright yellow flower. It is used as a natural fabric and food dye. It is sometimes used to give a golden tone to cheese and butter. Calendula will show up in an internet search for natural ways to dye your hair. Like so many other items on this list, calendula’s dye will not break into and bind to the keratin cuticle of your hair without the use of heat and mordants.
Carrot
Carrot juice is delicious. Carrots are a good way to make friends with rabbits or horses. Despite their bright orange color, soaking your hair in carrot juice will not do much. Safe, but better eaten. Any color result that may occur will wash out.
Cassia
Hooray! The first effective contestant on the list. Cassia Auriculata will dye light hair a golden wheat color. It provides similar benefits as henna. Not quite as strong or permanent as henna, cassia may need to be applied more often, or mixed with a small amount of henna for a more effective bind. Cassia is great for diluting henna or henna/indigo mixes to great vibrant fiery reds, or lighter browns. On dark hair, cassia will not cause a color change but is great for conditioning. Cassia is very safe.
Chamomile
Chamomile shows up in natural beauty sites very often because it is supposed to naturally lighten hair. The instructions usually involve soaking hair in chamomile tea or spritzing the hair with tea in a spray bottle. Like lemon, some use it in their hair prior to going out into the sun. Chamomile seems to deliver very subtle, very slow results that appear if one’s hair is already blonde or light brown. If your hair is dark, no luck. If your hair is dyed with henna, chamomile will not remove the henna. With hair that is already light brown or blonde, it would take weeks of daily hair-soaking and dozens of tea bags to achieve a noticeable difference if any at all. Chamomile is not a strong enough acid to use for dye-releasing henna. It is safe, but drinking chamomile tea may make you sleepy.
Cherry
Many people long to have hair the same color as black cherries. That deep, purple-red is gorgeous, and sadly, only achievable with chemical dyes. Cherry juice might be a good contestant for dye-release liquid, but because of its antioxidant and anthocyanin content, not because of its color. Cherries are safe, as long as you are not allergic, and remember to spit out the pits.
Cinnamon
Cinnamon is another common ingredient in natural beauty recipes for lightening hair. It smells wonderful, but cinnamon is irritating to the skin. I once tried the cinnamon-and-honey hair mask out of curiosity, and it felt like I rubbed tiger balm all over my scalp. Like lemon, honey, and chamomile, if there is any effect at all, it would show up on hair that is already light, require several treatments, and be very subtle. Not entirely safe, and not very effective. Will do nothing to the color result of a henna mix. If you want to make your henna mix smell nice, try ginger or cardamom powder instead.
Coffee
This is one of the most common items people ask about. Some henna sites still recommend mixing henna with strongly brewed black coffee. Coffee seems to temporarily darken the hair, but caffeine is transdermal and will cause jitters and headaches if you leave it on your scalp for several hours. You will also have to put up with the smell. Imagine breathing through a used coffee filter for three hours. A coffee “rinse” would do nothing. Do not put coffee in your mix. If you want to darken your henna, add a little indigo.
Dandelion
Bright yellow flower. Fun for making wishes. Used in salads. See Calendula above.
Henna
Pure, BAQ henna is safe, effective, and permanent. But if you are reading this blog, you might know that by now. Feel free to read the other articles to learn all about how to use it. Henna allergies are extremely rare. Henna’s dye molecule binds to keratin and will not fade. Because henna is not well regulated, all henna is not equal. Make sure you know the difference between true henna and compound henna, which is unsafe and contains a number of additives.
Honey
Honey produces small amounts of peroxide, which can bring out some highlights to hair that is already light. The effect is minimal. It will not do anything to dark hair. Do not add it to a henna mix; it will inhibit dye uptake. It is safe unless you are an infant, or allergic to honey. Honey is great with some peanut butter on toast. It is also nice in tea. In your hair, it is a sticky mess that won’t do much.
Indigo
Used in conjunction with henna, indigo creates permanent shades of brunette. On its own, it may dye lighter hair a gray-blue color, which may fade. Henna helps indigo bind permanently. It is safe. Some with mold allergies notice a reaction to indigo. Patch test beforehand if concerned, and avoid inhaling powder particles. Read more about indigo here.
Jagua
Jagua is derived from the fruit, Genipa americana which grows in South America. Its juice has been used in body art to create deep blue stains on the skin. Jagua is extremely expensive. The amount of jagua juice needed to mix with 100g of henna powder would be over a hundred dollars. Not worth it. Jagua is also known to cause allergies in those who are allergic to certain fruits. Some distributors may sell products containing PPD claiming it is pure jagua. Verdict: Not for hair, expensive, and proceed with caution.
Kool-Aid
Dyeing hair with powdered drink mixes is popular among young people because it is cheap, temporary, and can result in unnatural colors. The high concentration of food dyes can cause a temporary stain on lighter hair. It is relatively safe, but not permanent, and not necessarily “natural.” It will probably stain your clothes and pillowcase as it fades off. Adding it to henna would probably not do anything, as the lawsone would greatly overpower any food dye.
Lemon
Lemon juice has been used to add highlights to blond hair. It works similarly to peroxide. You will not see much change in darker hair. It will not lighten hair that has been dyed with henna. When used as an acid in a henna mix, the low pH will actually cause the resulting stain to oxidize greatly over time, causing a darker color. Those who are sensitive to citrus may notice an itchy, bumpy, or red scalp when using henna mixed with lemon juice. It can also cause UV sensitivity. When used with henna, it is smart to dilute lemon juice with 3-4 parts distilled water.
Hibiscus
This is another plant that is popular in natural beauty blogs. Hibiscus is a beautiful red flower with a sweet, tart flavor. The flowers are dried and sold whole and in powder form. According to those who recommend using it, hibiscus supposedly brings red hues to the hair. If effective, the result would be very temporary. Hibiscus is high in anthocyanins, so if there is any effect of it being mixed with henna, it would act more like Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powder, or blueberry juice, cooling the henna color rather than adding red tones. Hibiscus makes for a delicious cold summer drink. Save it for that, instead.
Iron (rust)
Some cultures have mixed henna in iron containers, and this recommendation has come through to blogs and natural sites today. Some sites recommend adding a few rusty nails (or any rusty iron item) into the henna if you do not have an iron pot. A low-pH liquid would react with the iron to create iron oxide, which may impart a dark color to the hair temporarily. You do not want minerals in your hair. Not only does mineral buildup inhibit dye uptake, but can cause the hair to become stiff and dry. This is why we recommend clarifying the hair before applying henna and using distilled water.
Note: This is not to say that henna and metal should never mix. Henna can be mixed in stainless steel bowls, or with any run-of-the-mill spoon just fine.
Nettle
Nettle has been recommended on some natural beauty sites claiming it will darken hair and stimulate growth. It can dye fabrics but requires simmering and mordants to do so. There will be little to no effect on hair. There are no studies that show significant effects on hair growth. While nettle can be eaten, or used for tea, harvesting nettle from the great outdoors can result in some nasty stings.
Onion
This is another one pulled from fabric dyeing. Onion skins can dye fabrics a lovely yellow color. It will not work on hair. Some claim that rinsing hair in water that has been boiled with onion or onion skin will promote hair growth. This claim has not been proven. Do yourself and others a favor, and do not put onions in your henna, or in your hair at all. You will end up smelling like onions for no reason.
Pomegranate
Pomegranates have an absolutely beautiful color, and anyone who has opened one will know that the juice can stain your skin, clothes, and cutting board. It will not stay in your hair. There’s nothing wrong with using it as your dye-release liquid, other than expense. It is high in anthocyanins, so it would most likely work similarly to blueberry juice.
Raspberry
See: Blueberry, Cherry, and Pomegranate. Safe, and decent for a dye-release liquid; will not dye hair.
Red Cabbage
You may have done the experiment in science class where you use cabbage juice as a pH indicator. If not, it’s pretty cool. The purple liquid turns shades of pink when mixed with an acid, and blue to green when mixed with a base. Fabric dyers can use this to their advantage to create a variety of shades. I feel like a broken record by now but guess what. Works with simmering and a mordant; won’t work on hair.
Rhubarb
Rhubarb supposedly adds a golden tone to light hair. It is recommended on natural beauty sites and is sometimes included in “herbal” or “natural” hair dye mixes. Despite its pretty, red stalks, rhubarb will not add red tones to the hair. It contains chrysophanic acid, the same molecule responsible for cassia’s golden results. However, rhubarb root creates a very vivid, unnatural yellow that isn’t generally desired as a hair color. In addition, the dye does not bind well and fades over time. Better saved for fabric dyeing and pies.
Rosemary
Rosemary oil has long been recommended and used for hair growth and darkening hair. After scouring research databases, I found one clinical study which showed the effectiveness of rosemary oil against androgenetic alopecia, and none on hair darkening. Because only the abstract was available I could not make a determination on the soundness of the study. The claimed hair-growth effect is due to rosemary’s rubefacient quality. Rubefacients are by their nature, irritants. They stimulate circulation (redness) in the skin by dilating blood vessels. Do not put essential oils in henna. They dull the resulting color and can cause headaches.
Saffron
Holy expense. Not only will it fail to alter your hair color, but a gram of real saffron can cost up to $25. It is the most expensive spice in the world, and counterfeit/adulterated saffron is common. Saffron rice is delicious. If you get your hands on some real saffron, make rice. Safe, expensive, and pointless for hair.
Sage
Similar claims as Rosemary. Just like Rosemary, there is no definitive proof of sage’s ability to dye hair. Pretty safe. Good for clearing your home of ghouls and ghosties, or bad smells. Not effective for coloring hair.
Para-phenylenediamine (PPD)
NOT SAFE. Para-phenylenediamine is the active ingredient in most commercial hair dyes and is highly sensitizing. Yes, it effectively colors hair. It is also known to cause serious allergic reactions. Sensitivity to PPD is increasing due to the popularity of “black henna” tattoos, which use a concentrated form of dye. As a coal tar derivative, it is not natural. Read more about it here, here, here, and here.
Most commercial hair dyes contain PPD. Even products labeled “natural” or claiming to be henna can have PPD.
Tomato
If you’ve ever spilled pasta sauce or ketchup on your clothes, you were probably quite happy to find that the stain did not stay permanently. Soaking your hair in tomato juice is not an effective way to dye your hair, and like many other items on this list, any color result obtained will wash out. Tomatoes are acidic, so I can’t think of anything wrong with using tomato juice as a dye-release liquid, other than the fact that it would smell very strange. Better idea: enjoy a Bloody Mary while the henna is in your hair.
Turmeric
Turmeric gives curry dishes their bright yellow color. It is used in fabric dyeing. When mixed with an alkaline solution, turmeric’s ochre yellow color turns vivid red. When turmeric paste is rubbed onto the skin, it will leave a yellow stain. Turmeric may temporarily stain light hair yellow but will wash out quickly. Be prepared to turn your tub and towels yellow. Safe; beautiful color; will not dye hair.
Turmeric was used to stain the skin yellow in this body art piece. It will fade away after a good scrub.
Walnut
Black walnut powder has been sold on its own and in pre-mixed henna powders. It leads to darker results. Black walnut will dye hair but has a high risk of allergic reaction. Indigo will work just as well, if not better. Somewhat effective, but not as safe.
Woad
Mehandi.com no longer carries indigo for body art due to it being hard to resource.
Woad is one of the most ancient dyes, used to dye fabrics “Celtic blue.” It is speculated that the Celts also used it on their skin, as seen in the movie Braveheart. The process is extremely smelly, like rotten cabbages. The dye molecule, indigo, in woad is the same as it is in the indigo (indigofera tinctoria) plant. Just use indigo plant powder. It is easier to get your hands on and doesn’t have the stink. If you want to paint yourself blue.
Ancient Blue® is an indigo product that mimics the use of woad on the skin, without the cabbage stink.
Final Notes
All in all, it is best to keep a henna mix to its bare essentials and to keep food for eating purposes. Many foods do have nutrients that are beneficial for hair and skin, but in order to take advantage of them, you need to process them through your digestive system. Additionally, if you don’t already have these items laying around, going out and finding them only complicates and adds expense to your henna method, for no real pay-off.
Please don’t hesitate to contact Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service if you have any additional questions. If there is an item you’d like to see added to this list, please comment below.
Author: Rebecca Chou 2/23/18 Edited: Maria Moore 11/16/22
Para-phenyelenediamine (PPD) is one of the most common allergens in cosmetics. While genetics can increase chances of allergy, anyone can develop a PPD allergy. High concentrations and repeated exposure increase the likelihood of becoming sensitized. Basic information about PPD is covered in an earlier article, What You Need to Know About Para-Phenylenediamine.
Occupations that involve repeated exposure to PPD, such as hair stylists, and fur and textile workers, show higher rates of employees with PPD sensitization [13]. Outside of occupation-related sensitization, the average person is sensitized to PPD through a black henna tattoo, or through the use of hair dye. Prevalence rates of PPD sensitization are about 6.2% in North America, 4% in Europe, and 4.3% in Asia [1]. Overall, sensitization rates appear to be increasing over time [2]. Rates are higher in populations with darker hair, as dark hair dyes contain higher PPD concentrations. Rates of sensitization are also higher in countries where “black henna” is commonly used in place of traditional henna.
PPD sensitization rates also vary between genders. Both body art and the use of hair dye are gendered behaviors; more women participate than men. This leads some to presume that PPD sensitization is more of a concern for women. While it is true that, overall, a higher percentage of women have PPD sensitization than men, it is important to discuss issues specific to men’s self-grooming and help-seeking behaviors that put the male population at unique risks. Certain populations of men experience higher rates of facial dermatitis due to frequent beard dyeing. Men who work in industries involving frequent contact with products that contain PPD or cross-reacting allergens may be forced out of their jobs to avoid continual allergic reaction. Men show reluctance to seek medical attention; this puts them at risk for future complications which could be avoided. Understanding gendered behavior may lead to better education, prevention, and treatment of PPD sensitization in men.
This man will have permanent scarring from his “black henna” body art, and is now sensitized to PPD. Source: https://shewhoseeks.blogspot.ca/2012_02_01_archive.html
Avenues of PPD Sensitization
Traditionally, self-grooming and concerns for beauty have been characterized as feminine behaviors. Men spend less time and money in the use and consumption of beauty products and services. Gender-specific grooming practices will be explored further in the next section. About 30-40% of women and up to 10% of men in North America are regular hair dye users [2],[3]. Another study estimated that 70% of women and 20% of men have used hair dye at least once in their lifetime [4].
On the other hand, getting a “black henna” tattoo is much less gendered in western cultures, leading to a fairly even split in the numbers of males and females getting a temporary “black henna” tattoo. Traditional henna body art is highly gendered; it is used for decorating and beautifying women, especially for celebrations and social events. In contrast, “black henna,” when it is used in spaces of tourism, is used to mimic the look of true tattoos. It is not limited to a specific custom or style. “black henna” is readily available on boardwalks and beaches, and in shopping malls, resorts, amusement parks, festivals, and fairs. Those who get “black henna” body art are usually children or young adults. [5], [6]. Children are attracted to body art that mimics tattoos because they like to imitate adult behavior. Parents who believe that “black henna” is harmless allow their children to have body art done, unaware of the risk of sensitization. Thus, both young boys and girls get “black henna” body art.
A young boy is scarred and sensitized by a “black henna” tattoo. Source: Daily Mail
Of those who get a “black henna” tattoo, an estimated 50% will become sensitized [6], [7]. Some will experience a delayed contact dermatitis reaction following; some will not. A person can develop a sensitization even if they did not react to their first exposure. It is rare for consumers of “black henna” to understand the connection between the product used to create “black henna” body art, and hair dye. Children become sensitized to PPD through “black henna,” then later on may choose to dye their hair. The chances of a person previously sensitized by black henna having a severe (+++) reaction to PPD hair dye is about 40% [8]. A study found that 16% of adolescents in Manchester, England had a PPD allergy. Most of this was likely caused by the “black henna” they had gotten on holiday [8]. We will see a wave of hair dye reaction cases around 2030, when this population begins showing gray hair.
Source: Presentation to USFDA June 30, 2016: ‘‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Awareness, Education and Policy, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD
While girls and women favor delicate designs, boys and men are more likely to choose tribal-style patterns that cover large areas of the skin with a solid application of “black henna.” This larger surface area increases the amount of PPD to which the person is exposed, thus increasing the risk of sensitization. If the client experiences a delayed hypersensitivity reaction to the body art, a larger area of their body is subject to dermatitis symptoms such as blistering, permanent scarring, and hypopigmentation. This is only just one way gendered behavior creates unique variables in PPD sensitization.
If a parent sees that their child is suffering from a reaction to their “black henna” tattoo, they will probably take the child to a medical professional. Adults, especially men, may be less likely to seek medical attention for their own allergic reaction, especially if it is not severe. Neglecting to seek medical attention causes a person to remain uneducated about the nature of their allergy, putting them at risk for repeated exposures and reactions. Men’s help-seeking behaviors will be discussed later in this article.
Grooming Practices as Gendered Behavior
Conventional ideals for appearance differ greatly between those for men and those for women. Entire books are dedicated to the sociology behind gendered beauty norms; therefore, it is impossible to cover this subject in its entirety within this article. One salient feature is that feminine and masculine norms are often presented as binary, and in opposition with one another [9]. If one behavior is used in traditionally feminine self-grooming, it is avoided in traditionally masculine self-grooming [9], [10], [11]. This is particularly evident in the way we treat hair. In western societies, most men keep their hair short, while most women have longer hair. Of course, there are many exceptions, and there are people and groups who intentionally choose to defy norms through their appearance. As societal constructs of masculine and feminine ideals shift, so do people’s choices in personal style. However, there is still an overall trend in gendered grooming behaviors. Cosmetics companies actively seek to maintain these norms in the sorts of images they use in marketing their products.
Use self-grooming products while still being manly… Because sports…Or something. Source: Media in Canada
Overall, women dye their hair more than men. Women’s fashion trends change more rapidly than men’s, and women change their personal style more frequently than men do [10], [11]. They do so by altering the length, color, and texture of their hair. Cutting, dyeing, curling, straightening, braiding, and using tools, products, and accessories all help in keeping a style “fresh” or “up-to-date.” Conventional feminine beauty values youth, and fears the appearance of age [9]. Women are much more likely to dye their hair to mask grays, while gray hair is less of a concern for most men. These behaviors play into the higher rate of PPD sensitization in women.
Men’s styles focus on conformity, consistency, and professionalism. Men do not change their hair as frequently. Feminine beauty is associated with youth; gray hair is undesirable. On the other hand, men are less concerned with going gray. Gray hair may even increase a man’s attractiveness. It is “distinguished.” The term “silver fox” is used predominately to describe mature, attractive men. Younger men in white-collar professions have even been told that adding some gray into their hair may help their appearance and rapport with clientele [9]. The brand Touch of Gray promises to dye men’s hair while leaving just enough gray to maintain that distinguished, mature image. While traditional concepts of masculinity once idealized the perfect man as rough and rugged, the increase of educated and white-collar careers caused a gradual shift to the image of a clean-cut, well-groomed, professional man, whose power comes from his professional success and wealth, and his ability to attract women [9], [10], [11].
The products on the left all contain PPD. They are marketed toward men, or claim to be “natural.” The image on the right shows the warning and patch test advisory on Just For Men dye.
Many men do dye their scalp hair and facial hair to mask their grays. The popular brand, Just for Men, directly targets men with its very name. Grooming products marketed toward men attempt to both reinforce the masculine ideal, and present self-grooming as a valid, masculine behavior. Marketing focuses on how the product will augment a man’s ability to attract women, or his image of professional success. By re-framing the use of hair and beauty products as a masculine behavior, companies can increase their number of male consumers.
Men’s use of hair dye is increasing, and the age of the average hair dye user is decreasing. More and more young people are using hair dye as a means of beauty and self expression, rather than for masking gray [22]. This shift in the demographic will lead to higher rates of sensitization and at younger ages, for both men and women.
Dyeing Beards
Facial hair is rather unique to men. Biologically, higher levels of androgen hormones lead to thicker, longer facial hair. While women also have facial hair, it is traditionally minimized through plucking, shaving, or bleaching. Few women have the biological ability to grow thick beards. Just as scalp hair can be cut, dyed, and styled to express a person’s identity, so can facial hair. Because it is mostly men who have noticeable facial hair, the use of dyes on facial hair and the repercussions are a uniquely male issue.
Facial skin is thin and sensitive. Facial hair, on the other hand, is coarser and more resistant to dye [12]. Those who dye their beards might choose stronger, more concentrated products, or leave the dye on for longer periods of time. This increases the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD. Additionally, a person who dyes their facial hair most likely also dyes their scalp hair, and possibly dyes both at the same time for the sake of convenience. Those who are already sensitized may experienced more severe reactions when the compound comes in contact with their face. The proximity to the nose and mouth leads to further risks.
Because facial hair grows quickly, a person wishing to mask gray roots will have to dye frequently. Men who use beard dye do so as frequently as once every five days [12], [13]. Men who keep their scalp hair short will also show gray roots more quickly. Repeated exposures both increase the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD, and worsen symptoms for those who are already sensitized.
Furthermore, PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with several structurally similar compounds, including those found in synthetic fragrances. If a man later chooses to shave their facial hair, the process of doing so can create cuts and micro-abrasions that leave the skin vulnerable to reactions from soaps, lotions, and aftershaves [14].
This man is in the hospital for a severe reaction to beard dye. Source: Consumer Affairs
Ethnicity, Culture, and Class in PPD Allergy Variability
A population’s variation in PPD allergy prevalence rates is dependent on several factors, such as behavior, the accessibility of PPD products, and the concentrations within those products. Demographics and geography play into these factors. In many European countries, laws have limited the maximum concentration of PPD allowed in hair dyes, and a related compound, para-toluenediamine (PTD) is often used instead [2]. (Side note: PTD is believed to be less sensitizing than PPD, but those who are already sensitized to PPD are likely to experience a cross-reaction with PTD. We’ll save that can of worms for another time.) In countries where PPD concentration in hair dye is restricted, or where PTD is more commonly used, sensitization rates to PPD are lower [4]. The same goes for countries with greater light-haired populations [1].
Conversely, in countries with less restriction on PPD concentration, and with larger dark-haired populations, we see higher sensitization rates. In many Asian countries, hair dyes with high PPD concentrations are easily available. Popular hair dye brands can contain up to 80% PPD. “Henna stone,” which is solid industrial PPD, is widely sold for use in hair dye and body art [6], [7]. The median prevalence rate in Asia is 4.3%, but ranges from 2-12% within regions and sub-groups [13].
In Saudi Arabia, and among Arabic men regardless of their location, growing and coloring beards is common practice. The prevalence rate for facial dermatitis from dye is high among this population [12]. A Korean study found that about 64% of adults with gray hair had experience using hair dye, and of that group, about 24% experienced a reaction [15].
A study conducted by the Cleveland Clinic investigated sensitization rates in white and black racial groups, and found that rates were similar among both groups for all allergens except PPD. Black people overall showed much higher rates of PPD sensitization than white people (10.6% vs. 4.5% respectively), and black men had much higher sensitization rates than black women (21.2% vs. 4.2% respectively) [16]. This is likely influenced by a combination of hair dye use/exposure, occupation, and genetic differences.
Black hair care is nearly a multi-billion dollar industry. Black women spend more money on cosmetics than non-black women. However, this alone does not explain why black men have significantly higher sensitization rates than black women. One factor could be that black men who dye their beards must do so frequently, and with high PPD concentrations, similar to the phenomenon seen in Arabic men. One class-action lawsuit against the Just For Men hair and beard dye brand claims that JFM unfairly targeted African American men in their marketing of a product that contained higher levels of PPD.
Various iterations of Just For Men “Jet Black” hair and beard dyes all feature black men on the packaging. Source: Amazon
Additionally, there may be a higher proportion of black men (in comparison to non-black men, and black women) in industries which handle PPD and related compounds, such as fur/leather/textile dyeing, and the manufacture and handling of black rubber products in rubber and automotive industries.
One can look at a statistic for PPD sensitization in, say, North America for example, and make an assumption that all of the population is at equal risk. This is far from the truth; sensitization rates vary greatly between sub-groups. More research needs to be done on specific populations to determine these sub-groups, and the factors which lead to higher rates of sensitization. Hair dye and “black henna” use, as well as occupation cause significant variation. More nuanced demographic data will create a clearer picture of the populations that might require additional attention.
Help-Seeking Behavior, Education, and Prevention
Sociological studies in men’s help-seeking behavior affirm that men are less likely than women to use medical services. Studies have focused on mental help and addiction, as well as common physical ailments such as headache and backache [17], [18]. There has yet been a study specifically regarding the help-seeking behaviors of men and women who experience a reaction to “black henna” tattoos, or PPD hair dye. However, one can infer from the general trend of help-seeking reluctance that there is a large population of men who are sensitized to PPD, who are entirely unaware of the allergy or how to manage it.
Overall, most people who become sensitized to PPD from a “black henna” tattoo are not aware that the sensitizing agent, PPD, is the same compound used in hair dye. Numerous case reports have described patients seeking medical care for reactions to hair dye, who reported having gotten a “black henna” tattoo in the past [1-8], [13], [19-22]. It is estimated that, of those who experience a severe reaction to hair dye, only 10-30% of cases will be seen by a doctor, and even fewer by a dermatologist. [19], [20]. In a survey of 521 Korean adults with graying hair, a whopping 74% of those who reported experiencing a reaction to hair dye said that they did not visit a medical professional. The primary reasons were that they did not feel the reaction was severe enough (44.6%), and that they saw the side effects as a normal part of dyeing their hair (39.3%) [15]. Another article estimated that only 15% of people with a hair dye allergy seek treatment, and only a fraction of these people are patch-tested for allergies [22].
Societal influences cause men in particular to choose to “tough out” medical problems rather than seeking help. If a man experiences a reaction to PPD and chooses not to seek medical help, he deprives himself of crucial information related to his sensitization. Most likely, he will think it was a one-time fluke. He might not learn that “black henna” and conventional hair dyes both contain PPD. He might not learn that PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with other products such as black rubber, fabric dyes, photographic developer and lithography plates, photocopying and printing inks, oils, greases and gasoline.
Without consulting a dermatologist or allergist, someone who is sensitized may never learn how to properly manage their new allergy, putting them at risk for repeated exposure and worsening symptoms. Furthermore, PPD sensitization can limit prospective occupations, or force workers to leave their jobs due to continuing and worsening reactions to the materials involved. This would affect people in cosmetology, fur and textile industries, rubber industries, automotive industries, work that involves printing and photo development, and numerous other fields [2].
Studies suggest that men’s help-seeking choices are influenced by the perceived potential for embarrassment, as well as the perceived normality of a problem. If an issue is ego-centric, meaning that it may affect a person’s self-image, men are less likely to seek help. The same goes for if a man perceives a problem as abnormal [17]. Advertisements for erectile dysfunction medications have focused on normalizing ED, as well as reinforcing the notion that the embarrassment of ED is worse than the embarrassment of consulting a doctor. This is an example of an attempt to normalize a medical issue and decrease the help-seeking behavior’s threat to a man’s self-esteem.
This ad for Viagra affirms traditional masculine ideology. Source: Outsource Marketing
While statistics show that few people seek medical treatment for reactions to hair dye, additional factors may cause men to do so even less. First, men are less likely to seek medical help than women. Second, because traditional masculine ideals enforce the belief that preoccupation with beauty, especially hair, is a feminine behavior, many men may be hesitant to seek help for reactions to hair dye. Doing so requires admitting to the use of hair dye, which can create a blow to a masculine self-image. While PPD is one of the most common allergens (named Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society in 2006), people remain largely unaware of its risks. Women are more familiar with hair dye reactions than men. Men may perceive a reaction to hair dye to be both non-normal and a threat to self-image. Thus, it is essential that efforts be made to increase awareness about PPD sensitization, focusing on its severity, high likelihood, and prevalence.
Just for Men Class-Action Suit
The hair dye brand, Just For Men, is currently at the center of several class-action lawsuits. Users reported experiencing adverse reactions to the products on their scalp hair and/or facial hair. Some suits claim that the patch test advised in the packaging was not sufficient for determining how the product would affect the skin on the scalp and face. In fact, conducting a patch test may increase sensitization. As mentioned earlier, other suits claim that the company intentionally and unfairly targeted black men in their marketing of their Jet Black hair dye, which the legal group claims to contain 17 times more PPD than other dyes from the same company.
If you are a man who has experienced an allergic reaction to Just for Men, consider looking to find if there is a legal group with an open suit in your area.
This series of class action suits is a positive move forward in demanding stricter regulation and more responsibility on the part of hair dye companies. Such legal action has rarely occurred against companies marketing hair dye to women, and fewer acts have been successful. Overwhelmingly, users of hair dye see adverse effects as a “normal” part of the hair dyeing process, and even choose to continue using products that cause reactions because the thought of going gray is worse than enduring contact dermatitis symptoms [15].
Conclusion
Because women make up the majority of hair dye users, there is a paucity of research specific to men’s use of hair dye. It is likely that more men are sensitized to PPD than current numbers suggest. Data taken from medical databases and case reports only include those people who seek medical attention or make themselves available to researchers. Surveys depend on honest self-reporting of behaviors. Men’s help-seeking behaviors may have cause research numbers to be lower than the reality
Based on available data, men make up a smaller proportion of the PPD sensitized population, in comparison to women. There is an exception in the case of black men in the United States. While hair dye allergies are often framed in the context of the female consumer, it is critical that the male population not be forgotten. The use of dye on beards is unique to men and poses special risks. Studies on help-seeking behavior suggest that men are less likely to seek medical attention if they were to experience a reaction. The idea of self-grooming as a gendered behavior further prevents men from openly discussing their use of hair dye.
Young boys who get a “black henna” tattoo on vacation, while at an amusement park, or in other tourist settings, are at risk of experiencing a reaction later on in life if they choose to use oxidative dyes. “Black henna” tattoos contribute significantly to the number of people who have PPD sensitization. In the future, we will see an increase of both men and women who develop severe reactions to hair dye. As societal ideals of beauty, self-grooming, and gender norms change, hair dye use may increase among men. Already there is a shift in the use of hair dye as tool for masking age, to an avenue of self-expression in younger populations [22].
In order to ensure that both men and women are properly educated about the risks and prevalence of PPD sensitization, continued efforts must be made in raising awareness. Consumers should be aware that PPD is highly sensitizing, and that reactions from hair dye are quite common. Steps must be taken to prevent PPD sensitization before the onset. This includes continuing to raise awareness about “black henna” body art, pushing for stricter regulation of products containing PPD, and presenting safe alternatives for altering hair color and masking grays.
To learn more about PPD sensitization, visit the following links.
[1] Mukkanna, Krishna Sumanth, Natalie M. Stone, and John R. Ingram. “Para-phenylenediamine allergy: current perspectives on diagnosis and management.” Journal of asthma and allergy 10 (2017): 9.
[2] Hamann, Dathan, Carsten R. Hamann, Jacob P. Thyssen, and Carola Lidén. “p‐Phenylenediamine and other allergens in hair dye products in the United States: a consumer exposure study.” Contact Dermatitis 70, no. 4 (2014): 213-218.
[3] Redlick, Fara, and Joel DeKoven. “Allergic contact dermatitis to paraphenylendiamine in hair dye after sensitization from black henna tattoos: a report of 6 cases.” Canadian Medical Association Journal 176, no. 4 (2007): 445-446.
[4] Schuttelaar, Marie-Louise Anna, and Tatiana Alexandra Vogel. “Contact Allergy to Hair Dyes.” Cosmetics 3, no. 3 (2016): 21.
[5] Goldenberg, Alina, and Sharon E. Jacob. “Is the Use of PPD in Black Henna Tattoo Criminal or Remiss?.” International Journal of Integrative Pediatrics and Environmental Medicine 1 (2014): 22-26.
[6] ‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Mapping the Potential for Extreme Sensitization to Oxidative Hair Dye, Presentation at Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ 70th Annual Scientific Meeting, December 10, 2015, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD
[7] Presentation to USFDA June 30, 2016: ‘‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Awareness, Education and Policy, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD
[8] Smith V, Clark S, and Wilkinson M. “Allergic contact dermatitis in children: trends in allergens, 10 years on. A retrospective study of 500 children tested between 2005 and 2014 in one U.K. centre.” British Association of Dermatologists’ Annual Conference. Leeds Teaching Hospitals NHS Trust, Leeds, U.K. (2015).
[9] Synnott, Anthony. “Shame and glory: A sociology of hair.” The British journal of sociology 38, no. 3 (1987): 381-413.
[10] Ricciardelli, Rosemary. “Masculinity, consumerism, and appearance: a look at men’s hair.” Canadian Review of Sociology/Revue canadienne de sociologie 48, no. 2 (2011): 181-201.
[11] Barber, Kristen. “The well-coiffed man: Class, race, and heterosexual masculinity in the hair salon.” Gender & Society 22, no. 4 (2008): 455-476.
[12] Hsu, Te-Shao, Mark DP Davis, Rokea el-Azhary, John F. Corbett, and Lawrence E. Gibson. “Beard dermatitis due to para-phenylenediamine use in Arabic men.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 44, no. 5 (2001): 867-869.
[13] Handa, Sanjeev, Rahul Mahajan, and Dipankar De. “Contact dermatitis to hair dye: an update.” Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology 78, no. 5 (2012): 583.
[14] Jensen, Peter, Torkil Menné, Jeanne D. Johansen, and Jacob P. Thyssen. “Facial allergic contact dermatitis caused by fragrance ingredients released by an electric shaver.” Contact dermatitis 67, no. 6 (2012): 380-381.
[15] Kim, Jung Eun, Hee Dam Jung, and Hoon Kang. “A survey of the awareness, knowledge and behavior of hair dye use in a Korean population with gray hair.” Annals of dermatology 24, no. 3 (2012): 274-279.
[16] Dickel, Heinrich, James S. Taylor, Phyllis Evey, and Hans F. Merk. “Comparison of patch test results with a standard series among white and black racial groups.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 12, no. 2 (2001): 77-82.
[17] Addis, Michael E., and James R. Mahalik. “Men, masculinity, and the contexts of help seeking.” American psychologist 58, no. 1 (2003): 5.
[18] Hunt, Kate, Joy Adamson, Catherine Hewitt, and Irwin Nazareth. “Do women consult more than men? A review of gender and consultation for back pain and headache.” Journal of health services research & policy 16, no. 2 (2011): 108-117.
[19] Søsted, H., T. Agner, Klaus Ejner Andersen, and T. Menné. “55 cases of allergic reactions to hair dye: a descriptive, consumer complaint‐based study.” Contact dermatitis 47, no. 5 (2002): 299-303.
[20] de Groot, Anton C. “Side‐effects of henna and semi‐permanent ‘black henna’tattoos: a full review.” Contact dermatitis 69, no. 1 (2013): 1-25.
[21] Jacob, Sharon E., and Alina Goldenberg. “Allergic.”
[22] McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” BMJ: British Medical Journal 334, no. 7587 (2007): 220.
Oscar Wilde, famous novelist, poet, and playwright, lived a short and scandalous life during the turn of the 20th century, from 1854 to 1900. He is believed to be one of the first famous people to have had an allergy to para-phenylenediamine (PPD) from hair dye. His personal accounts and those from his friends and biographers leave no doubt that Wilde was prematurely gray, and that he used hair dye to cover his increasingly white hair. A study of paintings and drawings done of Wilde suggest that he may have tried henna products, as well.
Oscar Wilde is known for works such as “The Picture of Dorian Gray,” “A House of Pomegranates,” and “The Importance of Being Earnest.” Having died at the young age of 46, he was in his lifetime no doubt prolific. He once wrote a play entirely in French, which, according to scholars, showed barely any trace of having been written by a non-native speaker. [2]
However, during his lifetime, Wilde’s accomplishment as a writer was overshadowed by his notorious propensity for eating, drinking, and “sexual inversion” [1]. He was put to trial multiple times under the crime of homosexuality, and eventually imprisoned for two years from 1895 to 1897.
At the time of his death, the cause was believed to be neurosyphilis, exacerbated by his gluttony and alcoholism. His reputation made such a diagnosis more than plausible. However, more recent medical professionals believed that the cause of his death was more likely to be a chronic ear infection which eventually spread to the brain. [1]
Besides the worsening illness that eventually took his life, Wilde also suffered from a recurring rash that itched intensely and spread over his face, arms, back, and chest. This rash could not have been due to syphilis; syphilitic rashes do not itch. Wilde himself attributed it to some bad mussels he once ate. However the rash would disappear and reappear periodically for the rest of his life. The description of the rash was not consistent with an allergy to mussels. Scholars and medical professionals believe that this rash was more likely caused by a sensitization to para-phenylenediamine from the dye he used to mask his prematurely graying hair. [3] [4]
A younger Wilde, at age 28. (Keep the “favourite coat” part in mind for later.)
“Oscar Wilde in his favourite coat.” New York, 1882. Picture taken by Napoleon Sarony. Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Oscar_Wilde
Oscar Wilde’s Gray Hair: A Story in Letters, Photos, and Portraits
Photography during Wilde’s lifetime provides little help in determining the exact color of Wilde’s hair during his youth, the time when it began to gray, nor the exact shade to which he dyed it. Wilde himself was not likely to discuss his use of hair-dye, as he was exceptionally vain and was a lover of youth and beauty. For most of his life, his friends were largely unaware that he was graying, and he probably preferred it that way.
In order to pull together some information about Wilde’s hair, one can turn to written documents from Wilde’s close friends, and to the portraits painted of him.
In a letter written by Wilde’s friend, Robert Ross, to friend and biographer Frank Harris, Ross writes of Wilde’s hair during the month preceding his death.
Ross wrote, “I noticed for the first time that his hair was slightly tinged with grey. I had always remarked that his hair had never altered its colour while he was in Reading; it retained its soft brown tone. You must remember the jests he used to make about it, he always amused the warders by saying that his hair was perfectly white.”
Frank Harris responded, “I noticed at Reading that his hair was getting grey in front and at the sides; but when we met later, the grey had disappeared.” [4]
During the decline of his health, Wilde likely had trouble keeping up with dyeing his hair. This would have led to Ross’ remark. Reading Gaol (pronounced “Redding Jail”) was the prison in which he served most of his time. From the friends’ accounts, one could deduce that Wilde had some access to hair dye while in Reading, but maybe not as regularly, allowing Harris to witness Wilde’s gray from root growth or perhaps fading dye.
Information about Oscar Wilde’s changing hair color can also be gleaned from comparisons between paintings of Wilde in his early years and those of him from just prior to the time of his death. In the portrait below, done of Wilde when he was 27 years old, he has deep brown hair. In the photos, his hair also appears to be rather dark, perhaps a medium to dark brown.
“Robert Goodloe Harper Pennington, “Portrait of Oscar Wilde.” 1881.
The photograph below, taken in 1882, would have shown Wilde at age 28. Again, it seems his hair is rather dark, and that Wilde was rather vain. It cannot be precisely determined when Wilde began to gray, and when he began to dye his hair, but there is a clear difference between the brunette tones seen in his early life and the bright, orange and blonde tones seen later.
“Oscar Wilde by Napoleon Sarony, with hat and cape, 1882” Source: https://www.cmgww.com/historic/wilde/photos/
While Ross described Wilde’s hair as “soft brown” during his time in Reading Gaol, the following paintings show his hair to be a blonde to light copper color. It must be taken into account that artists are afforded their creative freedom in choosing color; however, it is interesting to note that both the portrait of Oscar Wilde by Toulous Lautrec and the works by Ricard Opisso show him with light hair.
The painting below is Lautrec’s portrait of Wilde, done in 1895 during the time of Wilde’s trial prior to his imprisonment. It is reported that Lautrec wanted Wilde to sit for the painting, but that this was done from memory.
Henri de Toulous-Lautrec, “Portrait of Oscar Wilde.” 1895
Variations of this painting exist. It is possible that Lautrec himself painted or printed multiple versions, or that the color of the image was altered in other ways. Here is another version of the same portrait, and a section from the painting’s original sketch. Notice that even in the sketch, Wilde’s hair is not shaded in, but left light.
Ricard Opisso, Catalan artist and cartoonist, also drew and painted Oscar Wilde around the same time, often showing him with Lautrec in the cafes and dance halls where they spent much of their time.
Here, The viewer sees Wilde to the left of Lautrec. His hair is an orange tone.
Ricard Opisso, title and date unknown. Source: http://www.artneutre.net/2006/12/airs-de-paris-reus.html
The two latter images above are not dated, but it can be assumed that Opisso created them around the same time as the first. They take place in Paris, where Wilde spent most of his time from 1880 to the end of his life, save for his stint in prison. Opisso himself was from Spain, and was only documented to have visited Paris, not to have spent any length of his time living there. Note that all of Oppiso’s images of Wilde show him with light copper or blond hair.
Did Oscar Wilde Use Henna, and If So, Why?
While there is no doubt that Oscar Wilde was prematurely gray and that he used hair dye to mask the fact, only guesses can be made about the kinds of hair dyes he used. A brunette during his younger life, he no doubt wished to maintain a similar hair color when he first began to gray.
Hair dyes available during the late 19th century had very little regulation. PPD was initially introduced as a fur dye in 1883, patented by a man from Paris, named P. Monnet et Cie. By the 1890s, it was adopted by hair stylists across the western world. The first commercially available PPD hair dye was produced in 1910, a decade after Wilde’s death. This means that if he had dyed his hair with a product containing PPD, it was either at a salon or with a dye labeled for use on fur. The latter is not a ridiculous thought, as products have always been used for purposes outside of their labels. Many early hair dyes were marketed for both hair and for fur. Wilde owned many articles of clothing made of fur. He would have purchased such products to maintain them, and could have used the rest on his own hair.
This is an advertisement for a hair and fur dye from 1885. A “sealskin sacque” was a popular style of jacket with a fur collar. Wilde has been photographed and painted in such a coat.
Regulation of products containing PPD did not begin until 1938, in the United States. Oscar Wilde lived in the UK and France several decades before that. The products Wilde used most likely contained a high level of PPD, and possibly metallic salts and other additives. The location of his rash would make sense as a reaction to PPD; dye can easily get on the face, chest, back, and arms if a person is applying it at home.
Henna for hair was available in western countries at this time as well. Proper techniques for mixing and applying henna were not yet known to those in western countries. The quality of the products would have been low, as well. Henna was advertised as an exotic product from far-off lands, which was greatly appealing to the people of that era. Women with red hair were seen as alluring. Most of the dancers and sex workers in Paris hennaed their hair to make themselves more beautiful and noticeable.
Lautrec himself was fascinated with women with hennaed hair. He painted them frequently. These women appear in his paintings with red, tangerine, and yellow hair similar to the colors of Wilde’s hair in Lautrec’s and Oppiso’s depictions of him. Lautrec spent much of his time with prostitutes and dancers who hennaed their hair. As Wilde and Lautrec were close friends, Wilde would have known them as well.
Notice that all of the women’s hair are shades of red.
Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, “In the Salon of Rue des Moulins.”1894.
A woman named Jane Avril was a friend and muse to Lautrec, and a can-can dancer at the Moulin Rouge. There is no doubt that Jane Avril used henna. Lautrec painted her often for both portraits and posters. Her hair appears in shades from yellow to red, as well. Comparing Lautrec’s color choices for Avril’s hair, which was definitely hennaed, and Wilde’s, one can see that it is very likely that Wilde also used henna.
Henna for hair products were not much better than conventional dyes at the time. The products that were sold to the western world contained low quality henna and a myriad of additives. Techniques for henna mixing and application were also lacking. Henna mixed with boiling water produced a light, brassy result which faded. This could be a possible explanation for both Avril’s and Wilde’s variations in hair color.
If Wilde had a PPD sensitization, there is no indication that he made the connection between his rashes and his hair dye. Very little research had been done on PPD sensitization and the dangers of hair dye at the time. The early research and warnings came about in the early 1900s, after Wilde’s death. Wilde would not have thought, “It must be the PPD in the hair dye. I should try something else.” Nor would a doctor have recommended him to do so. It is unlikely that he chose henna as a safer alternative. Henna at the time contained metallic salts and possibly PPD.
Examples of early henna for hair products. These would have been from the early half of the 1900s They often contained low quality, stale, chunky henna, other ingredients.
At any rate, Wilde thought little of doctors and their attempts to convince him to eat and drink less, and to exercise more. Wilde’s love of food and drink came before his concern for his personal health. Wilde equally loved youth and beauty. Because accounts show that his rash continued on and off until his death, it is more likely that Wilde continued to dye his hair, perhaps switching between conventional dyes and henna-based ones.
Additionally, there is no record of Wilde stating that he felt the rashes may have been from hair dye. Instead, he continued to think that the initial rash came from consuming bad mussels, and then popped up every so often after he indulged too much. “I’m alright, Frank,” He told his friend, “but the rash continually comes back, a ghostly visitant. It generally returns after a good dinner, a sort of aftermath of champagne.” [1]
This sort of reaction is not consistent with an allergy to mussels or seafood, unless the “good dinner” that preceded the rash always contained mussels. He did not say “It generally returns every time I eat more mussels.”
More likely is that Wilde experienced a delayed hypersensitivity reaction to PPD. Reactions to PPD do not always occur immediately after exposure. Medical professionals stress the importance of doing a delayed read of patch tests at 96 hours for this reason [3]. If Wilde expected to go out to enjoy a dinner or part with company, he might have dyed his hair the day before to ensure that his friends would not see any gray roots. By the day or two after the dinner, his rash would be present.
How Far Did the Allergy Go?
While his death is now believed to be the result of a chronic ear infection, some hypothesize that this could have been an extension of his allergy to PPD. While in prison, Wilde one day felt ill and fainted, and his ear bled. He reported that his ear continued to bleed and discharge afterwards. The condition worsened, causing partial deafness. He eventually had an operation performed by a doctor in his hotel room in Paris shortly before his death. Details are not known about the exact nature of this operation.
PPD can cause severe blistering and weeping sores on the skin. It is not impossible to think that if Wilde had managed to get hair dye into his ear earlier on, that is could have caused a reaction that continued to worsen, growing into an infection and collection of pus in the inner ear. The inside of the ear is a difficult place to clean, and as it is warm and damp, is an ideal place for infection to grow. Having blisters and weeping sores would have made the skin inside the ear particularly vulnerable to bacteria.
Final Notes
Because of the lack of medical records, Wilde’s unlikeliness to discuss personal health and grooming, and the inadequacy of medical knowledge during this time, it is impossible to determine for sure the cause of Wilde’s skin condition. However, there is enough evidence to believe that it was contact dermatitis caused by sensitivity to para-phenylenediamine in hair dye.
While it would have been wonderful to say, “Oscar Wilde knew the dangers of conventional hair dye and chose henna as a safe alternative,” there is simply no evidence behind this statement, and it would not fit into the facts of PPD knowledge and available henna products of the time. If he did use henna, it was simply because it was there. Henna for hair products at the end of the 19th century were not much safer, nor was the knowledge of proper mixing and application available in the west.
All that can be done is to piece together information from photography, art, letters, and accounts written by Wilde’s close associates. Having done this, the conclusion to be drawn is the following: Oscar Wilde definitely had premature gray hair; he definitely dyed his hair; he very likely had a PPD allergy; and he probably used henna, although not to replace PPD-based dyes.
Wilde, now loved for his writing and known for his flamboyant and rule-breaking ways, can be considered one of the first celebrities to become sensitized to para-phenylenediamine, and can tentatively hold a place in the hall of “hennaed divas.”
References
[1] Cawthorne, Terence. “The last illness of Oscar Wilde.” (1959): 123-127.
[2] Critchley, Macdonald. “OSCAR WILDE A MEDICAL APPRECIATION.” Medical history 1, no. 3 (1957): 199.
[3] Jacob, Sharon E., and Alina Goldenberg. “Allergic.”
[4] Nater, J. P. “Oscar Wilde’s skin disease: allergic contact dermatitis?.” Contact dermatitis 27, no. 1 (1992): 47-49.
This article serves as the introduction to a series on Para-phenylenediamine (PPD): its health risks, history, and politics. In the coming weeks, articles will be published which explore each section in greater detail.
Para-phenylenediamine, or a chemically related -diamine is an ingredient used in virtually all oxidative hair dyes, both store-bought and used in salons. The oxidative dye process is formulated to quickly penetrate and stain the hair strand any color, including lightening hair by removing the pigment from the core of the hair and dyeing over it. Brunette and black hair dyes contain higher concentrations of PPD, though all colors can contain PPD.
Para-phenylenediamine can present a multitude of health risks if it is inhaled or if it comes in contact with skin. Despite a well-documented history of allergic reaction, sensitization, increased risk of cancer, and other serious health risks, it continues to be allowed in hair dyes at a maximum of 6% concentration in the United States.
The rate of PPD sensitization is increasing, but many doctors, hairstylists, and consumers remain unaware or apathetic. A lack of knowledge about PPD leads to continuation of serious reactions for people who use products containing PPD and related ingredients. It also allows companies which manufacture and sell products containing PPD to do so with relatively no regulation nor legal repercussion.
Educating consumers about the dangers of PPD and safer alternatives is becoming an increasingly important mission at Ancient Sunrise®.
The molecular structure of Para-Phenylinediamine.
1. PPD is highly sensitizing, and studies link it to lupus, non-Hopkins lymphoma and asthma. Allergic reactions can cause severe injuries, and can be fatal.
The hazards of para-phenylenediamine have been known since its introduction for use as an industrial fur dye, and in personal hair dyes. Academic articles from as early as 1915 warn against it. Symptoms of allergic reactions to para-phenylenediamine may include itching, swelling, hives, blistering, depigmentation, and permanent scarring; the reaction is a delayed hypersensitivity reaction, often occurring 3 to 30 days after application, so they are frequently misdiagnosed.
There have been an increasing number of fatal anaphylaxis reactions to PPD hair dye in recent years, particularly when people have previously had a PPD ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo. The allergic reactions often require emergency treatment to keep airways open, and further treatment in an ICU or burn ward. A person may additionally experience difficulty breathing and swelling of body parts near the site of exposure. In the case of hair dye use, this means swelling of the face, eyes, and throat. Reactions near the eyes can cause damage and loss of sight.
This woman experienced a severe reaction to a hair dye claiming to be henna, but which contained PPD. Article here.
In countries where products with high PPD levels are easily accessible, ingesting hair dye is a known method of suicide and murder; women can generally purchase hair dye without arousing suspicion. Ingestion of PPD can lead to respiratory distress, rhabdomyolysis (muscle death), and renal failure.
PPD exposure has been linked to increased chances of certain cancers as well as asthma and non-Hodgkins lymphoma. Despite all this, PPD is legal for use on hair within the United States at up to a 6% concentration. Cosmetics companies continue to tout PPD as a safe ingredient despite decades of research, case studies, and hospitalizations.
2. There is no requirement to disclose the concentration percentage of PPD in products manufactured in the US.
Regulation of PPD varies greatly by country. The United States limits PPD to up to a 6% concentration in hair dye. The FDA differentiates between products used for hair coloring, and products applied directly on the skin because hair dyes are supposed to be used off the scalp and washed away after a period of time. In reality, those who apply hair dye at home will apply the product to the scalp, and will not always follow processing time instructions.
Even when these products are applied correctly, there is no guarantee that the customer will not develop a sensitization or a reaction. The dye may drip onto the scalp, face, neck or ears during processing time. For some, this brief contact with a low concentration may be all that it takes.
Other countries have a higher limit or no limit at all on concentration levels. These products are easy enough to purchase over the internet. They can also be found at international grocery stores. When hair dye is sold in powder form, concentration is directly dependent on the amount of water mixed with the powder. One study found that packages of black hair dye manufactured in India and China (often sold as black henna) contained 12.5% to over 30% PPD, far in excess of legally allowed levels. Other samples have been found to have as high as 60% PPD.
3. “Black Henna” body art is not henna. It is illegal, but laws are not well enforced.
“Black henna” appeared in the United States and flourished seemingly overnight in the 90’s, spurred by Madonna’s “Frozen” music video released in 1998. in the video, her hands are decorated with black henna patterns. These were done with Bigen black hair dye at the Ziba salon in Los Angeles. Based on first injury reports, it can be estimated that henna artists from South Asia have been using high PPD black hair dye since the 1980’s as “black henna.” Pop-up stalls in tourist locations offered temporary body art that stained the skin black very quickly, and lasted for two to four weeks. “Black henna” created the illusion of a real tattoo without the permanence or pain (unless one experiences a reaction). Black henna body artists were transient and often unaware of the dangers of their own materials.
This person experienced a reaction and now has permanent scarring from a “black henna” tattoo gotten while on vacation.
Within the United States and most countries, PPD is illegal for direct use on skin unless it is for cultural purposes. While imported shipments of “black henna” body art products are regularly seized by customs, it is easy enough to purchase hair dyes containing PPD, which are not subject to seizure, and to use them on the skin. Dyes from countries with more lenient laws may report only “color powder” as an ingredient. Some international brands of popularly used for “black henna” body art contain as high as 30% PPD concentration, more than enough to sensitize an unsuspecting client in one exposure. A solid form of pure PPD is sold as “henna stone” from the banks of the Nile River, which creates instant black results for body art. This leads uninformed buyers to believe that a) the product is natural and safe; and b) that natural henna produces a black stain.
“Henna stone” is not natural. It is a solid piece of industrial grade PPD, at up to 90% concentration.
The use of high concentrations of PPD for henna-like body art gained popularity first in East Africa in the 1970’s. The product was less expensive and required an easier preparation than natural henna. It provided instant, black results which mimic the look of a permanent tattoo, and are more visible on darker skin tones. This practice then moved into Western countries, especially in high tourism areas.
Darker areas show where “black henna” is used as part of tourism; gray areas show where vacationers return home.
Enforcing laws against the use of PPD on skin would require law enforcement officials to patrol high tourism areas such as beach fronts and piers where stalls are often set up. These stalls are transient, closing and opening in new locations. A solo artist could set up and work out of a toolbox, moving throughout the day. As mentioned earlier, many products containing high concentrations of PPD are not properly labeled, making it even more difficult to enforce bans.
In many cases, by the time a customer experiences a reaction to their “black henna” body art, the artist has long moved on to a new location, making it near impossible for health professionals to acquire a sample of what was used on the customer’s skin.
Www.mehandi.com sells Temptu professional-grade skin paint, which does not stain the skin and does not contain PPD, but which is water-resistant and can mimic the look of a black tattoo for up to seven days.
This design was done with Temptu paint. You can find it here and learn how here.
Research has shown that with enough exposures to high enough concentrations of PPD, anyone will develop a sensitization to PPD. In a well known study, 100% of subjects exposed to 10% concentrations of PPD developed a reaction within five patch tests. Rate of sensitization varies greatly among individuals. For some, it may take only one exposure to a lower concentration. Though the oxidative hair dye industry claims that fewer than 3% of people are allergic to hair dye, many studies have shown that number to be higher, and coroner Geoff Fell estimates that 14% of people are allergic to oxidative hair dye.
“Black henna” artists use a mixture that is 15% PPD or more. The chances of becoming sensitized to PPD after getting a “black henna” tattoo is about 50% Once sensitized, a person will experience a reaction the next time they come in contact with PPD. Of the people who are sensitized to PPD from a “black henna” tattoo, about 40% will experience a severe reaction upon their next exposure. This might be another “black henna” tattoo, or it could be years later, when that person decides to dye their hair. Even if the first exposure did not cause any reaction, the body can still have become sensitized. The next time this person comes in contact with PPD, they may experience a severe reaction without any understanding of the cause.
People who work in professions that require frequent contact with PPD can quickly develop sensitivities. Hair stylists who become PPD sensitive can no longer work at a traditional salon without experiencing reactions. PPD was once also used in fur-dyeing, leading to high rates of sensitization in fur industry workers.
5. Those who develop sensitivities to PPD may experience worsening symptoms with each exposure.
Reactions are not always immediate and severe. Oftentimes, reaction symptoms start out mild and worsen each time a person makes contact with the compound. A person who has dyed their hair using an oxidative dye for several years may at first experience no reaction, then one day notice some itching or burning, or have puffy eyes after applying hair dye. The next application might cause more painful symptoms. Before long, that person could require emergency hospital care for a reaction that has caused intense swelling to the entire face and head, and difficulty breathing.
Actor Pauley Perette had a typical progression of reaction: she had dyed her blonde hair black for twenty years, and the allergic reactions presented progressively until it was life-threatening. Follow the link here for additional news articles about PPD reactions.
In 2012, a woman in the UK died after experiencing a reaction to an over-the-counter hair dye. Further investigation discovered she had previously gotten a “black henna” tattoo, which likely had sensitized her to future encounters with PPD. While this is an extreme case, it is not at all uncommon for people to become sensitized via exposure to a high concentration of PPD from a “black henna” tattoo, and go on to later use a dye containing PPD. People can become sensitized without experiencing an initial reaction. Those who do experience a reaction from “black henna” tattoos are usually unaware that commercial hair dyes contain the same ingredient.
One study discovered that even after participants were determined by way of patch test to have a PPD sensitivity, more than half continued to use hair dyes anyway. These participants were ones who experienced more mild reactions; those with severe reactions reported stopping hair dye. This shows that the average patient does not take their sensitization seriously, and is willing to endure a mild reaction for the sake of maintaining their desired hair color.
6. PPD sensitization can lead to cross-sensitization to related compounds.
Para-phenylinediamine is an aromatic amine in the benzodiamine family. Studies have shown that those with PPD sensitizations may also be sensitive to other benzodiamines, toluenediamines, analgesics such as benzocaine and lidocaine, azo-dyes, and PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid). The FDA lists examples of cross-sensitization here.
Hair dyes that are labeled “PPD free” may contain para-toluenediamine, a compound similar enough to elicit reactions for those who have PPD sensitivities, causing “PPD free” hair dyes to be just as problematic.
Unless tested in a clinical setting, it is unlikely that the average person who is sensitized to PPD will be aware of cross-sensitizations. This leaves them vulnerable to reactions from other sources, such as fabric dyes, cosmetics, black rubber (like that used to create car tires) pain relieving and numbing agents both administered in a hospital and bought over-the-counter, and even sunblock lotion.
Those who experience reactions from cross-sensitization may be frustrated and confused as to what is causing their allergies, and what products to avoid. A doctor may recognize a PPD sensitization and recommend their patient to stop using hair dyes containing PPD; however, if a patient has an unknown cross-sensitization, they may continue to present with similar symptoms without realizing the link.
7. The rate of PPD sensitization is growing.
The combination of an increased use in hair dye among younger people, and the explosion of the “black henna” industry in tourists areas has allowed for a jump in the rate of PPD sensitization. The most common source of sensitization for children and young adults is “black henna” tattoos. As mentioned above, the concentration of PPD in products used for “black henna” is extremely high, leading to a higher likelihood of sensitization in comparison to exposure to lower concentrations. This creates a population of youth who have already become sensitized prior to their first use of oxidative hair dye.
Studies have shown that people are using hair dye at younger ages and at higher frequencies. While hair dye was once more commonly used to mask gray hairs that came with age, it is now a common cosmetic tool to change hair color on a whim, regardless of age.
It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of middle class people in the UK, US, Australia, Korea, Japan, and Europe will be sensitized to PPD. The majority of this sensitization will have been caused by “black henna” tattoos gotten while on vacation. Rates will be higher in the Arabian Peninsula, East Africa, Muslim populations in Africa, and South Asia, where black henna has been used in weddings and for Eid. As the younger, “black henna” sensitized population reaches the age for graying hair, there will be a dramatic increase of PPD-related injury from hair dyes.
Dark areas indicate where black henna is used to decorate the skin for events such as weddings, Eids, religious and cultural celebrations. Gray areas indicate where the practice has spread.
8. International “henna” for hair, and “natural” hair dye products are loosely regulated, and can contain PPD regardless of labeling.
Standards for ingredient disclosure vary depending on the country of origin. In countries like India, manufacturers are not required to disclose their full list of ingredients on products such as hair dye. Henna for hair products can be labeled as “pure” and “all natural” but in reality include PPD, metallic salts, and other chemical adulterants. Some products labeled “henna” can include little to no henna at all. “Henna” becomes a vague, catch-all term for supposedly natural hair products, regardless of the existence of lawsonia inermis plant powder contained therein. These compound hennas are then mistaken for safe BAQ henna.
It is an incorrect assumption that a product originating from South Asia, the Middle East, or other regions in which henna grows is automatically safe and natural. It is often the case that these products are the most adulterated.
These brands of hair dye contain high concentrations of PPD. Note that some are called “henna.”
9. Cosmetics companies that use PPD have little legal responsibility for PPD-related injuries.
US-based and international cosmetic giants which manufacture oxidative hair dyes containing PPD are relatively safe from litigation. They are required by the FDA to advise customers to conduct a patch test before using their products, and to avoid use if one has an allergy to “black henna.” This warning, along with the sheer size and strength of these companies, prevents successful legal action against them in the case of PPD-related injury. The lobbying power of these companies prevent the government from passing more stringent legislation on PPD. Current law does not require that injuries caused by hair dye reported to the manufacturer be made public, as this is regarded as financially sensitive information.
Dupont, the patent holder, explicitly absolves itself from harm done by any use that involves contact with skin.
“DuPont does not recommend and will not knowingly offer or sell p-phenylenediamine (PPD) for uses involving prolonged skin contact. Such uses may involve, but are not limited to, products formulated with henna for tattoo applications or other skin coloration effects. This use of PPD in prolonged skin contact application has the potential to induce allergic skin reactions in sensitive individuals.
Persons proposing to use PPD in any formulation involving any more than incidental skin contact must rely on their own medical and legal judgment without any representation on our part. They must accept full responsibility for the safety and effectiveness of their formulations.”
10. 100% pure henna is a safe, effective, and permanent alternative to oxidative hair dyes.
More and more people are seeking safer, natural cosmetic alternatives regardless of whether or not they have a sensitivity to ingredients in commercial products. Consumers are concerned about the environment and their own bodies. Using henna and related plant dye powders to dye hair is a process that requires more patience and knowledge than picking up a box of oxidative dye at the local store, but will yield permanent results without damage to the hair or body. It is essential that consumers insist on only henna products of the highest quality and purity. This means products that have been tested for PPD, metallic salts, and other harmful adulterants.
Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products are made of 100% pure plant powder. They can be used on all types of hair, and produce virtually any natural shade.
The practice of using plant powders to color the hair is centuries old. The knowledge of their use was once as commonplace as knowing how to drive a car is now. This can become the case again. It requires the availability of quality product, accurate information, and the dissemination of that information within and across communities through direct relationships and social networking. A common reason for being hesitant about using henna is that it seems complicated and time-consuming, but a great number of henna-users report that it becomes second nature, that they enjoy the process, and that the results are superior to boxed dyes.
Learn how to mix your own safe and natural hair dye and never worry about PPD again!
Ancient Sunrise® provides quality products, information based in research, and a team of customer service representatives that are available through several avenues of communication. We have thousands of customers all over the world. We look forward to helping you on your journey to beautiful hair and healthier practices.
References
Almeida, Pablo J., Leopoldo Borrego, and José M. Limiñana. “Age‐related sensitization to p‐phenylenediamine.” Contact dermatitis 4, no. 3 (2011): 172-174.
Al-Suwaidi, Ayesha, and Hafiz Ahmed. “Determination of para-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna in the United Arab Emirates.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 7, no. 4 (2010): 1681-1693.
Brancaccio, Ronald R., Lance H. Brown, Young Tae Chang, Joshua P. Fogelman, Erick A. Mafong, and David E. Cohen. “Identification and quantification of para-phenylenediamine in a temporary black henna tattoo.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 13, no. 1 (2002): 15-18.
Cartwright-Jones, Catherine. “The effect of black temporary tattoos on the chemical cosmetic industry and a solution to the problem.”Sofw Journal 143 (2017): 24-30.
Chen, Weiyang, Thobile AN Nkosi, Sandra Combrinck, Alvaro M. Viljoen, and Catherine Cartwright-Jones. “Rapid analysis of the skin irritant p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna products using atmospheric solids analysis probe mass spectrometry.” Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 128 (2016): 119-125.
Fisher, Alexander A., Alfred Pelzig, and Norman B. Kanof. “The Persistence of Allergic Eczematous Sensitivity and the Cross-Sensitivity Pattern to Paraphenylenediamine** From The Department of Dermatology and Syphilology of the New York University Post Graduate Medical School (Dr. Marion B. Sulzberger, chairman) and The Skin and Cancer Unit of the New York University Hospital.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 30, no. 1 (1958): 9-12.
Hashim, M. Sir, Y. O. Hamza, B. Yahia, F. M. Khogali, and G. I. Sulieman. “Poisoning from henna dye and para-phenylenediamine mixtures in children in Khartoum.” Annals of tropical paediatrics 12, no. 1 (1992): 3-6.
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Maria • Ancient Sunrise Specialist • Licensed Cosmetologist
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