Maintaining graying brown hair with henna and indigo

Close up of henna, indigo, and cassia powder.

My first-time using henna for hair color was due to a sensitivity reaction I started having with chemical hair dye.  I wanted to go back to my natural medium brown after many years of blonde highlights.  Fortunately, I had a friend who was using all-natural Ancient Sunrise henna and indigo to achieve beautiful brown hair.  I learned when indigo is mixed with henna you can achieve shades of auburn, browns and even black!  I wanted a medium brown so I used a color mix of 40% Sudina indigo and 60% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna to achieve this over my graying, chemically lightened hair.  The result was a beautiful, shiny, medium brown with highlights of different shades of auburn.  The highlights showed where my hair had been lightened and where I had started graying.  I was about 40% gray at this point.

After I used this mix for about two years my hair was all dyed using henna and indigo and I was 50% gray. I was a medium brown with highlights where I was gray, and the highlights blended FABULOUSLY after each root touch up.  My highlights were now a rosier auburn and showed fiery, copper tones in the sun.

henna paste in green bowl

As my grays increased to over 60%, my hair was leaning towards reddish tones with highlights.  My grays were showing as red more than auburn.  I talked to an Ancient Sunrise customer service rep about wanting my results to be less red. The rep suggested adding table salt to my indigo. Salt opens the hair shafts to slightly ruffle them and allow the hair to process the indigo-henna mix better. I also was advised I could do an indigo gloss over my entire head to tone down the red. After only one indigo gloss I was able to achieve the browns and auburns I loved. My hair is very healthy and shiny due to the use of henna. 

My brown hair has since grayed to about 70%. I changed my mix to 50% indigo and 50% henna to maintain the results I have grown to love.  I have only done root touch ups for many years.  My color has stayed consistent with a few tweaks here and there. I love all the beautiful highlights that cover my grays.  You must embrace getting older and see the gray hair changes as a natural gift that creates amazing highlights.  My hair is very healthy, full and shiny with great natural dimension.

Henna, cassia, and indigo paste on hair.

While using this 50/50 mix for several years, my brown hair color was consistent. My hair became wavy from the 70% gray. I enjoyed the change in texture and felt more fashionable since beachy waves have become such a trend.   While using the new Ancient Sunrise® salon for a photo shoot, I had my whole head hennaed BUT the colorist used two different mixes: 50/50 on the roots and then used a mix of 50% of cassia, 25% indigo, and 25% henna over all my previously henna and indigo dyed hair. 

Cassia powder with Malluma Kristalovino

Cassia is a natural colorless plant powder that diluted the mix to prevent my previously dyed hair from darkening. Cassia is also a conditioning treatment that lifted my hair to have more volume and more consistent waves.  If I use heat to enhance the waves in my hair, the waves hold for three days from the cassia treatment. 

After photo of henna and indigo on gray hair.

I have been more than pleased with my hair since starting my henna and indigo journey. It is also environmentally friendly and contains no chemicals at all.  I encourage you to start on your henna journey with nothing but natural Ancient Sunrise products.
Ancient Sunrise’s live customer service team will help you with all your questions about the color you want to achieve.

Michele • Ancient Sunrise® Inventory and SEO specialist

Comparing Ancient Sunrise® Sudina Indigo and Zekhara Indigo (Video)

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Henna for Hair 101: Choosing Your Mix

Nearly any natural hair color is achievable with the correct mixture of plant dyes.

When choosing your mix, we understand that it can be overwhelming. If at any point you’re not sure where to start, contact our wonderful customer service team!

The quick and dirty facts about henna for hair are the following:*

  • Henna by itself stains keratin a range of shades between copper and dark auburn.
  • Indigo darkens and browns these shades, and cassia lightens these shades, adding golden tones.
  • Equal parts henna and indigo will result in a medium brunette on most. More indigo will result in darker and darker shades of brunette.
  • Equal parts of henna and cassia results in bright, fiery tones of copper and orange. More cassia will result in lighter and brighter tones of strawberry blonde.
  • All three together will result in more shades of blondes and golden brunettes.
  • Henna first, then indigo second in a two-step process results in a shiny jet black color.
  • None of these powders or mixes will turn darker hair a lighter color.

    *color results depend on starting hair color, with the exception of jet black.

Important information

If you are already lost, click here to read Henna for Hair 101: Bare Essentials.

The amount of product you need will depend on the length and thickness of your hair. If you have very short hair, you will want to adjust your measurements to save product. If you have very long hair, you will have to increase the amount of product you are using. The Customer Service representatives at www.mehandi.com are there to help you if you need it.

We have several types of henna, indigo, and cassia that vary by tone and/or sift. To see descriptions of the plant powders and fruit acid powders read Henna for Hair 101: What’s the Difference Between All These Plant Powders?

Choosing your Mix: Pre-Made Kits


If this is your first time using Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products, it is easiest to start out with a pre-made kit. Ancient Sunrise® has a wide variety of kits to dye hair any shade from blonde to jet black, and they are formulated for regular hair, graying hair, and fragile hair (both natural and relaxed). We include the correct ratios of the plant powders and acid powders you’ll need to achieve your desired result, as well as gloves, a piping bag (great for quick and easy root touch-ups), and instructions on how to put everything together. No measuring or guessing necessary. All you’ll need is distilled water.

Because certain powders need to be mixed at certain times for the best results, we do not pre-blend the powders, but rather provide them in individual packets inside the kits.

We recommend choosing one or more kits to sample on some hair you have collected, and then using the full kit of your choice after determining which one works best for you. If you’re not picky about your results, you can jump right in with a full kit.

Below is a quick cheat sheet on the kits, their formulations, and the expected results.

Even if you want to create your own mix rather than buying a kit, the chart below can help you see what you might need to achieve your desired result.

Everything in the kits is available for individual and bulk purchase. Most customers start with kits until they are comfortable with the process, then order in bulk. We offer bulk discounts, which makes stocking up economical.

 

If you have light hair:

Desired ResultKitMix
Brighten blondes, adding golden tone and shine Ancient Sunrise® Blonde

• 96.5% Ancient Sunrise® Clarity cassia
• 1.5% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• 3% Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino fruit acid

Warm, strawberry blonde or golden blonde Ancient Sunrise® Sunshine

• 80% Ancient Sunrise® Clarity cassia
• 20% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino fruit acid

Deep, neutral blonde to light golden brown

Ancient Sunrise® Chai• 66% Ancient Sunrise® cassia
• 17% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• 17% part Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid
Vivid, orange red Ancient Sunrise® Fire • 50% Ancient Sunrise® Clarity cassia
• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon
• Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry fruit acid

Bright, rosy “true” red

Ancient Sunrise® Red • Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon Henna
• Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry fruit acid

Deeper “true” red Ancient Sunrise® Cinnamon • Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon Henna
• Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino fruit acid

Auburn Ancient Sunrise® Auburn (gray hair kit)• Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight henna
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino

Medium, warm, chestnut brown

Ancient Sunrise® Medium Brown

• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon henna
• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino
Medium Cool brown Ancient Sunrise® Cool Brown • 50% Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon henna
• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Amla fruit acid
Dark, warm, chocolate brown

Ancient Sunrise® Dark Brown• 33% Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon henna
• 66% Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino
Dark, cool brown Ancient Sunrise® Cool Dark Brown• 33% Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon henna
• 66% Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Amla fruit acid

Soft Black/Very Very dark brown Ancient Sunrise® Warm Black

• 20% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• 80% Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino
Jet black

Ancient Sunrise® Black 2 step process
• 1st: Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon henna
• 2nd: Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino

 

If you have medium brunette hair:

Desired ResultKitMix
Richen color (a shade or two darker)

Ancient Sunrise® ChaiSee first chart for kit mix details

Slightly ginger Ancient Sunrise® Fire

Ginger Ancient Sunrise® Red or Cinnamon

Medium to Dark Auburn

Ancient Sunrise® Auburn (gray hair kit)

Darker brownAncient Sunrise® Medium Brown or Cool Brown
Darker cool brownAncient Sunrise® Dark Brown or Cool Dark Brown
Warm soft black Ancient Sunrise® Warm Black
Jet Black Ancient Sunrise® Black

If you have darker hair:

Desired ResultKitMix
Add warm tones

Warm red tones under sunlight

Ancient Sunrise® Red or Cinnamon, or Auburn

See first chart for kit mix details

Deepen color by a couple of shades

Ancient Sunrise® Medium Brown or Cool Brown

Soft black

Ancient Sunrise® Dark Brown, Cool Dark Brown, or Warm Black

Jet BlackAncient Sunrise® Black

If you have graying hair:

Desired ResultKitMix
Blend grays to a golden light brown tone

Ancient Sunrise® ChaiSee first chart for kit mix details

Rich red highlights with an overall warm colorAncient Sunrise® Henna for Gray Hair: AuburnSee first chart for kit mix details

Chestnut highlights on darker hair or blend gray with medium brown hairAncient Sunrise® Henna for Gray Hair: Medium Brown

• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino
Dark, warm brown highlights on black hair or blend grays with dark brown hairAncient Sunrise® Henna for Gray Hair: Dark Brown

• 33% Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• 66% Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino

Jet BlackAncient Sunrise® Henna for Gray Hair: BlackTwo step process
• 1st: Ancient Sunrise® Twilight henna
• 2nd: Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino

 

If you have natural hair, thick/curly hair, or delicate/damaged hair:

Desired ResultKitMix
Add shine with no color

not in kit form

Ancient Sunrise® Clarity cassia with fruit acid of choice
Add warm, copper tones to light and medium hair colors not in kit form

Ancient Sunrise® Rarity henna and fruit acid of choice
Color light hair medium brown or make medium to dark hair a few shades darker Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Delicate Hair: Medium Brown • 50% Ancient Sunrise® Rarity henna
• 50% Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino
Color medium hair dark or make dark hair a soft black Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Delicate Hair: Dark Brown • 33% Ancient Sunrise® Rarity henna
• 66% Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino
Jet BlackAncient Sunrise® Henna for Delicate Hair: Black Two step process
• 1st: Ancient Sunrise® Rarity henna
• 2nd: Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo
• Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino

Note: Kits that are not labeled “for gray” will blend grays nicely into highlights.

All full sized and sample sized kits can be found here: https://www.mehandi.com/Ancient-Sunrise-Henna-and-Herbal-Hair-Care-s/166.htm

Our Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair E-book has great, detailed information about mix formulations, testing, application, trouble-shooting, and more. And of course, we have awesome Customer Service Reps who are all experts on henna for hair, available for consultation via phone, email, and chat during our business hours.

Author: Rebecca Chou
Updated: Maria Moore 2022