PPD Sensitization in Men: Unique Risks and Gendered Behavior

Introduction

Para-phenyelenediamine (PPD) is one of the most common allergens in cosmetics. While genetics can increase chances of allergy, anyone can develop a PPD allergy. High concentrations and repeated exposure increase the likelihood of becoming sensitized. Basic information about PPD is covered in an earlier article, What You Need to Know About Para-Phenylenediamine.

 Occupations that involve repeated exposure to PPD, such as hair stylists, and fur and textile workers, show higher rates of employees with PPD sensitization [13]. Outside of occupation-related sensitization, the average person is sensitized to PPD through a black henna tattoo, or through the use of hair dye. Prevalence rates of PPD sensitization are about 6.2% in North America, 4% in Europe, and 4.3% in Asia [1]. Overall, sensitization rates appear to be increasing over time [2]. Rates are higher in populations with darker hair, as dark hair dyes contain higher PPD concentrations.  Rates of sensitization are also higher in countries where “black henna” is commonly used in place of traditional henna.

PPD sensitization rates also vary between genders. Both body art and the use of hair dye are gendered behaviors; more women participate than men. This leads some to presume that PPD sensitization is more of a concern for women. While it is true that, overall, a higher percentage of women have PPD sensitization than men, it is important to discuss issues specific to men’s self-grooming and help-seeking behaviors that put the male population at unique risks. Certain populations of men experience higher rates of facial dermatitis due to frequent beard dyeing. Men who work in industries involving frequent contact with products that contain PPD or cross-reacting allergens may be forced out of their jobs to avoid continual allergic reaction. Men show reluctance to seek medical attention; this puts them at risk for future complications which could be avoided. Understanding gendered behavior may lead to better education, prevention, and treatment of PPD sensitization in men.

This man will have permanent scarring from his “black henna” body art, and is now sensitized to PPD.
Source: https://shewhoseeks.blogspot.ca/2012_02_01_archive.html

Avenues of PPD Sensitization

Traditionally, self-grooming and concerns for beauty have been characterized as feminine behaviors. Men spend less time and money in the use and consumption of beauty products and services.  Gender-specific grooming practices will be explored further in the next section. About 30-40% of women and up to 10% of men in North America are regular hair dye users [2],[3]. Another study estimated that 70% of women and 20% of men have used hair dye at least once in their lifetime [4].

On the other hand, getting a “black henna” tattoo is much less gendered in western cultures, leading to a fairly even split in the numbers of males and females getting a temporary “black henna” tattoo. Traditional henna body art is highly gendered; it is used for decorating and beautifying women, especially for celebrations and social events. In contrast, “black henna,” when it is used in spaces of tourism, is used to mimic the look of true tattoos. It is not limited to a specific custom or style. “black henna” is readily available on boardwalks and beaches, and in shopping malls, resorts, amusement parks, festivals, and fairs. Those who get “black henna” body art are usually children or young adults. [5], [6]. Children are attracted to body art that mimics tattoos because they like to imitate adult behavior. Parents who believe that “black henna” is harmless allow their children to have body art done, unaware of the risk of sensitization. Thus, both young boys and girls get “black henna” body art.

A young boy is scarred and sensitized by a “black henna” tattoo.
Source: Daily Mail

Of those who get a “black henna” tattoo, an estimated 50% will become sensitized [6], [7]. Some will experience a delayed contact dermatitis reaction following; some will not. A person can develop a sensitization even if they did not react to their first exposure. It is rare for consumers of “black henna” to understand the connection between the product used to create “black henna” body art, and hair dye. Children become sensitized to PPD through “black henna,” then later on may choose to dye their hair. The chances of a person previously sensitized by black henna having a severe (+++) reaction to PPD hair dye is about 40% [8]. A study found that 16% of adolescents in Manchester, England had a PPD allergy. Most of this was likely caused by the “black henna” they had gotten on holiday [8]. We will see a wave of hair dye reaction cases around 2030, when this population begins showing gray hair.

Source: Presentation to USFDA June 30, 2016: ‘‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Awareness, Education and Policy, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

While girls and women favor delicate designs, boys and men are more likely to choose tribal-style patterns that cover large areas of the skin with a solid application of “black henna.” This larger surface area increases the amount of PPD to which the person is exposed, thus increasing the risk of sensitization. If the client experiences a delayed hypersensitivity reaction to the body art, a larger area of their body is subject to dermatitis symptoms such as blistering, permanent scarring, and hypopigmentation. This is only just one way gendered behavior creates unique variables in PPD sensitization.

If a parent sees that their child is suffering from a reaction to their “black henna” tattoo, they will probably take the child to a medical professional. Adults, especially men, may be less likely to seek medical attention for their own allergic reaction, especially if it is not severe. Neglecting to seek medical attention causes a person to remain uneducated about the nature of their allergy, putting them at risk for repeated exposures and reactions. Men’s help-seeking behaviors will be discussed later in this article.

Grooming Practices as Gendered Behavior

Conventional ideals for appearance differ greatly between those for men and those for women. Entire books are dedicated to the sociology behind gendered beauty norms; therefore, it is impossible to cover this subject in its entirety within this article. One salient feature is that feminine and masculine norms are often presented as binary, and in opposition with one another [9]. If one behavior is used in traditionally feminine self-grooming, it is avoided in traditionally masculine self-grooming [9], [10], [11]. This is particularly evident in the way we treat hair.  In western societies, most men keep their hair short, while most women have longer hair. Of course, there are many exceptions, and there are people and groups who intentionally choose to defy norms through their appearance. As societal constructs of masculine and feminine ideals shift, so do people’s choices in personal style. However, there is still an overall trend in gendered grooming behaviors. Cosmetics companies actively seek to maintain these norms in the sorts of images they use in marketing their products.

Use self-grooming products while still being manly… Because sports…Or something. Source: Media in Canada

Overall, women dye their hair more than men. Women’s fashion trends change more rapidly than men’s, and women change their personal style more frequently than men do [10], [11]. They do so by altering the length, color, and texture of their hair. Cutting, dyeing, curling, straightening, braiding, and using tools, products, and accessories all help in keeping a style “fresh” or “up-to-date.” Conventional feminine beauty values youth, and fears the appearance of age [9]. Women are much more likely to dye their hair to mask grays, while gray hair is less of a concern for most men. These behaviors play into the higher rate of PPD sensitization in women.

Men’s styles focus on conformity, consistency, and professionalism. Men do not change their hair as frequently.  Feminine beauty is associated with youth; gray hair is undesirable.  On the other hand, men are less concerned with going gray. Gray hair may even increase a man’s attractiveness. It is “distinguished.” The term “silver fox” is used predominately to describe mature, attractive men. Younger men in white-collar professions have even been told that adding some gray into their hair may help their appearance and rapport with clientele [9]. The brand Touch of Gray promises to dye men’s hair while leaving just enough gray to maintain that distinguished, mature image. While traditional concepts of masculinity once idealized the perfect man as rough and rugged, the increase of educated and white-collar careers caused a gradual shift to the image of a clean-cut, well-groomed, professional man, whose power comes from his professional success and wealth, and his ability to attract women [9], [10], [11].

The products on the left all contain PPD. They are marketed toward men, or claim to be “natural.”
The image on the right shows the warning and patch test advisory on Just For Men dye.

Many men do dye their scalp hair and facial hair to mask their grays. The popular brand, Just for Men, directly targets men with its very name. Grooming products marketed toward men attempt to both reinforce the masculine ideal, and present self-grooming as a valid, masculine behavior. Marketing focuses on how the product will augment a man’s ability to attract women, or his image of professional success. By re-framing the use of hair and beauty products as a masculine behavior, companies can increase their number of male consumers.

Men’s use of hair dye is increasing, and the age of the average hair dye user is decreasing. More and more young people are using hair dye as a means of beauty and self expression, rather than for masking gray [22]. This shift in the demographic will lead to higher rates of sensitization and at younger ages, for both men and women.

Dyeing Beards

Facial hair is rather unique to men. Biologically, higher levels of androgen hormones lead to thicker, longer facial hair. While women also have facial hair, it is traditionally minimized through plucking, shaving, or bleaching. Few women have the biological ability to grow thick beards.  Just as scalp hair can be cut, dyed, and styled to express a person’s identity, so can facial hair. Because it is mostly men who have noticeable facial hair, the use of dyes on facial hair and the repercussions are a uniquely male issue.

Facial skin is thin and sensitive. Facial hair, on the other hand, is coarser and more resistant to dye [12]. Those who dye their beards might choose stronger, more concentrated products, or leave the dye on for longer periods of time. This increases the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD. Additionally, a person who dyes their facial hair most likely also dyes their scalp hair, and possibly dyes both at the same time for the sake of convenience. Those who are already sensitized may experienced more severe reactions when the compound comes in contact with their face. The proximity to the nose and mouth leads to further risks. 

Because facial hair grows quickly, a person wishing to mask gray roots will have to dye frequently. Men who use beard dye do so as frequently as once every five days [12], [13]. Men who keep their scalp hair short will also show gray roots more quickly. Repeated exposures both increase the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD, and worsen symptoms for those who are already sensitized.

Furthermore, PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with several structurally similar compounds, including those found in synthetic fragrances. If a man later chooses to shave their facial hair, the process of doing so can create cuts and micro-abrasions that leave the skin vulnerable to reactions from soaps, lotions, and aftershaves [14].

This man is in the hospital for a severe reaction to beard dye. Source: Consumer Affairs

Ethnicity, Culture, and Class in PPD Allergy Variability

A population’s variation in PPD allergy prevalence rates is dependent on several factors, such as behavior, the accessibility of PPD products, and the concentrations within those products. Demographics and geography play into these factors. In many European countries, laws have limited the maximum concentration of PPD allowed in hair dyes, and a related compound, para-toluenediamine (PTD) is often used instead [2]. (Side note: PTD is believed to be less sensitizing than PPD, but those who are already sensitized to PPD are likely to experience a cross-reaction with PTD. We’ll save that can of worms for another time.) In countries where PPD concentration in hair dye is restricted, or where PTD is more commonly used, sensitization rates to PPD are lower [4]. The same goes for countries with greater light-haired populations [1].

Conversely, in countries with less restriction on PPD concentration, and with larger dark-haired populations, we see higher sensitization rates. In many Asian countries, hair dyes with high PPD concentrations are easily available. Popular hair dye brands can contain up to 80% PPD.  “Henna stone,”  which is solid industrial PPD, is widely sold for use in hair dye and body art [6], [7]. The median prevalence rate in Asia is 4.3%, but ranges from 2-12% within regions and sub-groups [13].

 In Saudi Arabia, and among Arabic men regardless of their location, growing and coloring beards is common practice. The prevalence rate for facial dermatitis from dye is high among this population [12]. A Korean study found that about 64% of adults with gray hair had experience using hair dye, and of that group, about 24% experienced a reaction [15].

A study conducted by the Cleveland Clinic investigated sensitization rates in white and black racial groups, and found that rates were similar among both groups for all allergens except PPD. Black people overall showed much higher rates of PPD sensitization than white people (10.6% vs. 4.5% respectively), and black men had much higher sensitization rates than black women (21.2% vs. 4.2% respectively) [16]. This is likely influenced by a combination of hair dye use/exposure, occupation, and genetic differences.

Black hair care is nearly a multi-billion dollar industry. Black women spend more money on cosmetics than non-black women. However, this alone does not explain why black men have significantly higher sensitization rates than black women. One factor could be that black men who dye their beards must do so frequently, and with high PPD concentrations, similar to the phenomenon seen in Arabic men.  One class-action lawsuit against the Just For Men hair and beard dye brand claims that JFM unfairly targeted African American men in their marketing of a product that contained higher levels of PPD.

Various iterations of Just For Men “Jet Black” hair and beard dyes all feature black men on the packaging. Source: Amazon

Additionally, there may be a higher proportion of black men (in comparison to non-black men, and black women) in industries which handle PPD and related compounds, such as fur/leather/textile dyeing, and the manufacture and handling of black rubber products in rubber and automotive industries.

One can look at a statistic for PPD sensitization in, say, North America for example, and make an assumption that all of the population is at equal risk. This is far from the truth; sensitization rates vary greatly between sub-groups. More research needs to be done on specific populations to determine these sub-groups, and the factors which lead to higher rates of sensitization. Hair dye and “black henna” use, as well as occupation cause significant variation. More nuanced demographic data will create a clearer picture of the populations that might require additional attention.

Help-Seeking Behavior, Education, and Prevention

Sociological studies in men’s help-seeking behavior affirm that men are less likely than women to use medical services. Studies have focused on mental help and addiction, as well as common physical ailments such as headache and backache [17], [18]. There has yet been a study specifically regarding the help-seeking behaviors of men and women who experience a reaction to “black henna” tattoos, or PPD hair dye. However, one can infer from the general trend of help-seeking reluctance that there is a large population of men who are sensitized to PPD, who are entirely unaware of the allergy or how to manage it.

Overall, most people who become sensitized to PPD from a “black henna” tattoo are not aware that the sensitizing agent, PPD, is the same compound used in hair dye. Numerous case reports have described patients seeking medical care for reactions to hair dye, who reported having gotten a “black henna” tattoo in the past [1-8], [13], [19-22]. It is estimated that, of those who experience a severe reaction to hair dye, only 10-30% of cases will be seen by a doctor, and even fewer by a dermatologist. [19], [20]. In a survey of 521 Korean adults with graying hair, a whopping 74% of those who reported experiencing a reaction to hair dye said that they did not visit a medical professional. The primary reasons were that they did not feel the reaction was severe enough (44.6%), and that they saw the side effects as a normal part of dyeing their hair (39.3%) [15]. Another article estimated that only 15% of people with a hair dye allergy seek treatment, and only a fraction of these people are patch-tested for allergies [22].

Societal influences cause men in particular to choose to “tough out” medical problems rather than seeking help. If a man experiences a reaction to PPD and chooses not to seek medical help, he deprives himself of crucial information related to his sensitization. Most likely, he will think it was a one-time fluke. He might not learn that “black henna” and conventional hair dyes both contain PPD. He might not learn that PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with other products such as black rubber, fabric dyes, photographic developer and lithography plates, photocopying and printing inks,  oils, greases and gasoline.

Without consulting a dermatologist or allergist, someone who is sensitized may never learn how to properly manage their new allergy, putting them at risk for repeated exposure and worsening symptoms. Furthermore, PPD sensitization can limit prospective occupations, or force workers to leave their jobs due to continuing and worsening reactions to the materials involved. This would affect people in cosmetology, fur and textile industries, rubber industries, automotive industries, work that involves printing and photo development, and numerous other fields [2].

Studies suggest that men’s help-seeking choices are influenced by the perceived potential for embarrassment, as well as the perceived normality of a problem. If an issue is ego-centric, meaning that it may affect a person’s self-image, men are less likely to seek help. The same goes for if a man perceives a problem as abnormal [17]. Advertisements for erectile dysfunction medications have focused on normalizing ED, as well as reinforcing the notion that the embarrassment of ED is worse than the embarrassment of consulting a doctor. This is an example of an attempt to normalize a medical issue and decrease the help-seeking behavior’s threat to a man’s self-esteem.

This ad for Viagra affirms traditional masculine ideology. Source: Outsource Marketing

While statistics show that few people seek medical treatment for reactions to hair dye, additional factors may cause men to do so even less. First, men are less likely to seek medical help than women. Second, because traditional masculine ideals enforce the belief that preoccupation with beauty, especially hair, is a feminine behavior, many men may be hesitant to seek help for reactions to hair dye. Doing so requires admitting to the use of hair dye, which can create a blow to a masculine self-image. While PPD is one of the most common allergens (named Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society in 2006), people remain largely unaware of its risks. Women are more familiar with hair dye reactions than men. Men may perceive a reaction to hair dye to be both non-normal and a threat to self-image. Thus, it is essential that efforts be made to increase awareness about PPD sensitization, focusing on its severity, high likelihood, and prevalence.

Just for Men Class-Action Suit

The hair dye brand, Just For Men, is currently at the center of several class-action lawsuits. Users reported experiencing adverse reactions to the products on their scalp hair and/or facial hair. Some suits claim that the patch test advised in the packaging was not sufficient for determining how the product would affect the skin on the scalp and face. In fact, conducting a patch test may increase sensitization. As mentioned earlier, other suits claim that the company intentionally and unfairly targeted black men in their marketing of their Jet Black hair dye, which the legal group claims to contain 17 times more PPD than other dyes from the same company.

If you are a man who has experienced an allergic reaction to Just for Men, consider looking to find if there is a legal group with an open suit in your area.

This series of class action suits is a positive move forward in demanding stricter regulation and more responsibility on the part of hair dye companies. Such legal action has rarely occurred against companies marketing hair dye to women, and fewer acts have been successful. Overwhelmingly, users of hair dye see adverse effects as a “normal” part of the hair dyeing process, and even choose to continue using products that cause reactions because the thought of going gray is worse than enduring contact dermatitis symptoms [15].

Conclusion

Because women make up the majority of hair dye users, there is a paucity of research specific to men’s use of hair dye. It is likely that more men are sensitized to PPD than current numbers suggest. Data taken from medical databases and case reports only include those people who seek medical attention or make themselves available to researchers. Surveys depend on honest self-reporting of behaviors. Men’s help-seeking behaviors may have cause research numbers to be lower than the reality

Based on available data, men make up a smaller proportion of the PPD sensitized population, in comparison to women. There is an exception in the case of black men in the United States. While hair dye allergies are often framed in the context of the female consumer, it is critical that the male population not be forgotten. The use of dye on beards is unique to men and poses special risks. Studies on help-seeking behavior suggest that men are less likely to seek medical attention if they were to experience a reaction. The idea of self-grooming as a gendered behavior further prevents men from openly discussing their use of hair dye.

Young boys who get a “black henna” tattoo on vacation, while at an amusement park, or in other tourist settings, are at risk of experiencing a reaction later on in life if they choose to use oxidative dyes. “Black henna” tattoos contribute significantly to the number of people who have PPD sensitization. In the future, we will see an increase of both men and women who develop severe reactions to hair dye.  As societal ideals of beauty, self-grooming, and gender norms change, hair dye use may increase among men. Already there is a shift in the use of hair dye as tool for masking age, to an avenue of self-expression in younger populations [22].

In order to ensure that both men and women are properly educated about the risks and prevalence of PPD sensitization, continued efforts must be made in raising awareness. Consumers should be aware that PPD is highly sensitizing, and that reactions from hair dye are quite common. Steps must be taken to prevent PPD sensitization before the onset. This includes continuing to raise awareness about “black henna” body art, pushing for stricter regulation of products containing PPD, and presenting safe alternatives for altering hair color and masking grays.

To learn more about PPD sensitization, visit the following links.

The Henna Page: Black Henna Warnings

Catherine Cartwright-Jones’ PhD Dissertation, “The Geographies of the Black Henna Meme Organism and the Epidemic of Para-phenylenediamine Sensitization: A Qualitative History”

AncientSunrise.Blog: What You Need to Know About Para-Phenylenediamine

To learn how to use plant dyes as a safe and effective alternative for coloring hair and masking grays, read the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair E-Book and visit www.HennaforHair.com, and  www.Mehandi.com.

References

[1]             Mukkanna, Krishna Sumanth, Natalie M. Stone, and John R. Ingram. “Para-phenylenediamine allergy: current perspectives on diagnosis and management.” Journal of asthma and allergy 10 (2017): 9.

[2]             Hamann, Dathan, Carsten R. Hamann, Jacob P. Thyssen, and Carola Lidén. “p‐Phenylenediamine and other allergens in hair dye products in the United States: a consumer exposure study.” Contact Dermatitis 70, no. 4 (2014): 213-218.

[3]             Redlick, Fara, and Joel DeKoven. “Allergic contact dermatitis to paraphenylendiamine in hair dye after sensitization from black henna tattoos: a report of 6 cases.” Canadian Medical Association Journal 176, no. 4 (2007): 445-446.

[4]             Schuttelaar, Marie-Louise Anna, and Tatiana Alexandra Vogel. “Contact Allergy to Hair Dyes.” Cosmetics 3, no. 3 (2016): 21.

[5]             Goldenberg, Alina, and Sharon E. Jacob. “Is the Use of PPD in Black Henna Tattoo Criminal or Remiss?.” International Journal of Integrative Pediatrics and Environmental Medicine 1 (2014): 22-26.

[6]             ‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Mapping the Potential for Extreme Sensitization to Oxidative Hair Dye, Presentation at Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ 70th Annual Scientific Meeting, December 10, 2015, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

[7]             Presentation to USFDA June 30, 2016: ‘‘Black Henna’ and the Epidemic of para-Phenylenediamine Sensitization: Awareness, Education and Policy, Catherine Cartwright-Jones PhD

[8]             Smith V, Clark S, and Wilkinson M. “Allergic contact dermatitis in children: trends in allergens, 10 years on. A retrospective study of 500 children tested between 2005 and 2014 in one U.K. centre.” British Association of Dermatologists’ Annual Conference. Leeds Teaching Hospitals NHS Trust, Leeds, U.K. (2015).

[9]             Synnott, Anthony. “Shame and glory: A sociology of hair.” The British journal of sociology 38, no. 3 (1987): 381-413.

[10]          Ricciardelli, Rosemary. “Masculinity, consumerism, and appearance: a look at men’s hair.” Canadian Review of Sociology/Revue canadienne de sociologie 48, no. 2 (2011): 181-201.

[11]          Barber, Kristen. “The well-coiffed man: Class, race, and heterosexual masculinity in the hair salon.” Gender & Society 22, no. 4 (2008): 455-476.

[12]          Hsu, Te-Shao, Mark DP Davis, Rokea el-Azhary, John F. Corbett, and Lawrence E. Gibson. “Beard dermatitis due to para-phenylenediamine use in Arabic men.” Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 44, no. 5 (2001): 867-869.

[13]          Handa, Sanjeev, Rahul Mahajan, and Dipankar De. “Contact dermatitis to hair dye: an update.”  Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology, and Leprology 78, no. 5 (2012): 583.

[14]          Jensen, Peter, Torkil Menné, Jeanne D. Johansen, and Jacob P. Thyssen. “Facial allergic contact dermatitis caused by fragrance ingredients released by an electric shaver.” Contact dermatitis 67, no. 6 (2012): 380-381.

[15]          Kim, Jung Eun, Hee Dam Jung, and Hoon Kang. “A survey of the awareness, knowledge and behavior of hair dye use in a Korean population with gray hair.” Annals of dermatology 24, no. 3 (2012): 274-279.

[16]          Dickel, Heinrich, James S. Taylor, Phyllis Evey, and Hans F. Merk. “Comparison of patch test results with a standard series among white and black racial groups.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 12, no. 2 (2001): 77-82.

[17]          Addis, Michael E., and James R. Mahalik. “Men, masculinity, and the contexts of help seeking.” American psychologist 58, no. 1 (2003): 5.

[18]          Hunt, Kate, Joy Adamson, Catherine Hewitt, and Irwin Nazareth. “Do women consult more than men? A review of gender and consultation for back pain and headache.” Journal of health services research & policy 16, no. 2 (2011): 108-117.

[19]          Søsted, H., T. Agner, Klaus Ejner Andersen, and T. Menné. “55 cases of allergic reactions to hair dye: a descriptive, consumer complaint‐based study.” Contact dermatitis 47, no. 5 (2002): 299-303.

[20]          de Groot, Anton C. “Side‐effects of henna and semi‐permanent ‘black henna’tattoos: a full review.” Contact dermatitis 69, no. 1 (2013): 1-25.

[21]          Jacob, Sharon E., and Alina Goldenberg. “Allergic.”

[22]          McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” BMJ: British Medical Journal 334, no. 7587 (2007): 220.

Ancient Sunrise® Amla Powder and Its Many Uses

Amla (emblica officinalis) is also known as Indian Gooseberry. It is both eaten and used in hair and skin care products in South Asia. To create amla powder, the fruit is dried, ground, and sifted. Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder can be used as an acid to dye-release henna and cassia mixes and to prevent loss of curl pattern, on its own as a hair treatment, and on the skin as a facial.

In a henna and/or cassia mix that involve indigo, amla lends ash tones to the resulting color. It helps to maintain a person’s natural curl pattern, which can loosen with repeated henna applications. Amla allows more indigo dye to enter the hair, for richer, darker brunettes.

Amla’s natural acids temporarily snap the hydrogen bonds in the hair, allowing the strands to be reshaped. Using amla as a treatment on its own can add body and wave to the hair. This same effect can be utilized for the skin. This powder helps to loosen dead skin cells on the surface and exfoliate them away, leaving clearer, brighter, and tighter skin.

Ancient Sunrise® amla powder is tested by our suppliers to ensure it is free of adulterants. We also run our powder under a microscope to check for any irregularities. It has a pH level of 3.5, making it an effective acid for dye release. It it gentle enough to use directly on skin for short periods of time.

Amla for Neutral/Ash Mixes and Better Brunettes

Amla contains gallic acid, ellagic acid, and ascorbic acid. Gallic acid pushes henna and cassia’s dye molecules toward ash tones, leading to cooler hair color results. This is useful for those who do not want red tones in their brunette mixes, or want a more neutral blonde result.

A mix with just henna and amla will result in a browner or cooler red, with less orange or copper tones. A mix with just cassia and amla will result in a more neutral, “wheat” blonde on light and graying hair, as opposed to a yellow blonde.

To use amla powder to neutralize red and yellow tones, mix 25g (just under three tablespoons) with every 100g henna and/or cassia. Mix the powders with distilled water and dye-release as normal. There is no need for additional acid powders or fruit juice.

If you are adding indigo to your mix, do so as you would normally, mixing Ancient Sunrise® indigo powder with distilled water and combining the pastes immediately before application.

With mixes containing indigo, the result will be a cooler, deeper brunette. This is especially useful for people who want minimal warm tones in their hair, and those who notice that the indigo fades from their hair over time, leaving a red tone. Amla allows more indigo to bind effectively with the hair.

When used in a henna/indigo mix, amla mutes warm tones and aids in indigo uptake.

Amla is not a dye, and will not affect the color of a person’s hair if used on its own. It merely aids in indigo uptake, as well as shifting the resulting color of henna and cassia dyes.

The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits in Cool Brunette and Cool Dark Brunette contain pre-measured portions of henna, indigo, and amla for easy mixing and great results.

Amla for Curls and Waves

When henna’s dye molecule binds with the outer keratin layers of the hair, it smooths frizzy, damaged hair and reinforces thin, weak hair. The added molecules also make the hair heavier and thicker. For those with a natural curl pattern, this can mean looser curls. Some who find their curls unruly or unmanageable take advantage of this effect. However, many wish to keep their curls. Adding amla to a henna mix helps to maintain the natural curl pattern.

Keep your color bright and your curls bouncy.

This can be done one of two ways. If you are also looking to mute red tones or achieve a deeper brunette, use Ancient Sunrise® amla powder to dye release your mix as explained above. If you wish to keep a brighter tone, dye-release your mix with your choice of acid, then mix 25g of amla into a paste, and stir this into your henna or cassia just before application. This will protect your curls without neutralizing henna and/or cassia’s brighter tones.

To add bounce and body to your hair, use amla on its own as a hair treatment mixed with Clarity Cassia. The following section will cover this.

Amla as a Conditioning Treatment

Amla can be used with Clarity Cassia to add bounce and body to the hair, to clear the scalp of dead skin, and to balance oily scalps. Amla’s acids cause the bonds in the hair to temporarily loosen, making it possible to temporarily reshape them. The acids also help to exfoliate skin and break down excess oil, keeping the scalp healthy and the pores clear.

Mix a paste of amla powder, cassia powder and distilled water. 25g of amla is needed for every 100g of cassia. The amount total will be dependent on the thickness and length of your hair. Apply the paste throughout clean hair and wrap with plastic, leaving it in for for an hour. Rinse, massaging the scalp, towel dry, and set your damp hair in curls or a braid and allow it to air dry.

Those who have normally very dry scalp and hair, or those who are sensitive to higher levels of ascorbic acid may want to use this technique sparingly or for a shorter amount of time to avoid itching and dryness. One can also use a little bit of oil or serum on the scalp if it feels too dry after the amla treatment.

Ancient Sunrise® also offers a shampoo bar with amla.
All shampoo bars are made with natural ingredients.

Amla as a Facial

High in vitamin C (ascorbic acid), amla paste makes a great facial treatment. It exfoliates dead skin cells, encouraging cell turn-over, and clears away excess oil. It leaves the skin tighter and brighter. Those with acne may find that a regular amla facial helps to lessen and prevent breakouts, and fade hyperpigmentation that comes with scarring. Over time, the complexion becomes brighter and more even, and the skin’s texture is smoother.

            Mix 1-2 teaspoons of amla powder with enough warm water to create a paste. Massage the paste over clean skin, avoiding the eyes. Leave it on for 3-5 minutes. Rinse, pat dry, and moisturize. This can be used once or twice a week. Vitamin C can increase UV sensitivity for some; if this is the case for you, make sure to use an SPF.

If you have further questions about how to use Ancient Sunrise® amla powder, feel free to comment below or contact Customer Service via email, chat, or phone.

Henna on Fingertips, Feet, and Nails: Cosmetic and Practical Applications (Part Two)

How To Henna Fingertips, Nails, and Feet

Part One of this two-part series explored the use of applying henna on fingertips, nails, and feet. Henna was used both as a cosmetic and as a way to heal and protect skin, nails, and hair.

To read Part One, click here.

This section will describe how to use henna paste to decorate and strengthen fingertips, nails, and feet.

Note for US Residents:

The color additive “henna” is approved by the FDA solely for the use of “hair dye” (see, 21 CFR 73.2190); it may not be used for dyeing the “eyelashes,” “eyebrows,” nor the “eye area” for cosmetic product applications. Neither is it approved for cosmetic “skin tattoo” purposes. To use a color additive in any cosmetic product application for which it is not listed for regulation renders it “adulterated” and/or “misbranded.” (see section 601(a) and/or 601(e), and/or 602(e) of the FD&C Act)
https://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditivesinSpecificProducts/InCosmetics/ucm110032.htm
Here are the US FDA regulations for the use of henna for the purpose of body art. These regulations have the force of law: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/products/ucm108569.htm
If you live outside of the US, this does not apply to you.

Always make sure you are using only 100% Body Art Quality (BAQ) henna whether it is on the hair or skin.

How to Apply Henna to Fingertips

Save this for a time when you don’t need your hands. I do this before bed, and sleep with wrapped fingertips.

            Henna on smaller areas of the body is easily done with a rolled mylar cone filled with henna. If you are unfamiliar with how to roll and fill cones, click here to learn.

Set Up

You will need:

  • A cone of henna for outlining. (Or you can use medical tape. See below.)
  • A small bowl or shot glass with about 1T henna. (You can just squeeze out the rest of your cone after outlining.)
  • A small brush
  • Toilet paper or other soft paper
  • Tape

Outline

Start with clean hands that do not have lotion or oils on them.

            Use the cone to draw an outline. You may need a friend to help if you wish to do both hands.

            Alternatively, you can wrap a strip of medical tape around each finger. The result will be a nice, crisp line. You will want to choose a waterproof tape with a straight edge (some have a zig-zag edge).

Fill

Fill in the skin from the line or the edge of the tape, to the tips of your fingers. I prefer to apply in layers, allowing each layer to dry. This prevents having fingers covered in a thick layer of wet paste that will take forever to dry.

Wrap

Wait until the paste is dry enough to touch without lifting any away. A hair dryer can help speed up the process. Wrap tissue or toilet paper around each finger, securing with tape.

            If you like, you can pull on a pair of stretchy fabric gloves. The warmth will deepen the stain, and the gloves keep the wraps from slipping off.

Remove

            To remove, unwrap your fingertips and gently scrape the paste away with a wooden craft stick or the blunt side of a butter knife. A stiff nail brush helps to remove extra bits. Try to avoid water for the first few hours while the stain settles and oxidizes.

            The stain will deepen over 24-48 hours. To expedite the process and darken the result, gently heat or steam your hands.

On the left, the fresh stain is bright orange. On the right, the stain has oxidized to a deep burgundy after 48 hours.

How to Apply Henna to Fingernails and/or Toenails

If you would like to stain only your nails rather than your fingertips the process is similar, and simpler.

            You can do this either with a cone or a clean, small brush. A recycled nail polish brush would work nicely. Trim and shape your nails as you prefer.

Using a Cone

Squeeze the cone gently and fill over the nail using back and forth motions.  It works well to apply a thinner layer, then apply a second layer as the first dries. As the paste dries,  it darkens and flattens. You will be able to see where you would like to add more paste.

via GIPHY

Using a Brush

Henna tends to slip over the surface of the nail, so it is helpful to use dabbing motions rather than treating it the way you would nail polish. Let the first layer set, and then go back in to fill any areas that are thin.

Finish

You can either choose to wrap your fingertips similarly as described above, or allow the paste to fully dry on the nails. Damp paste will continue to stain the skin, leading to darker results. If you let the paste dry, keep it on for as long as possible (several hours is good) before gently scraping it away.

            Again, the result will be brighter at first, and deepen over the next couple of days. You can reapply to deepen the color, and apply as necessary as your nails grow. I find that doing this weekly keeps my nails a deep red hue. My nails grow longer and chip less when I maintain hennaed nails.

            Henna will stain the nail permanently, so if you choose to stop applying henna to your nails, a good way to hide half-hennaed nails is to paint them over with polish until the stained portion grows and is clipped away.

via GIPHY

- Find & Share on GIPHY

Hennaed nails are a deep red. This color fades very little over time.

How to Apply Henna to Feet

You will definitely want to do this on a particularly lazy day, or in the evening before bed. You might want to have a friend to help you. I am a pretty flexible person and have found that hennaing one’s own feet is possible, but requires awkward positions.

            Start with clean, scrubbed feet. Henna will help the feet shed excess callus and dry skin, but if you’d like your stain to last for a long time, it is a good idea to scrub off anything that is on the verge of shedding already.

Outline

Feet can be hennaed in many styles. Hennaed feet have varied by culture and time period. Some people prefer to apply only to the soles. Some apply to the balls of the feet and the toes.  Once you have decided on your henna-feet style, use a cone to draw an outline along the tops and sides of your feet. I prefer a full slipper.

            A helpful trick for keeping it symmetrical: Put on a pair of flats and use an aquarellable pencil to trace outlines on your feet along the edge of your shoes.

You can also use medical tape to create a clean outline. Just apply the paste right over the edge of the tape.

Fill

Using the brush or craft stick, apply the henna paste evenly all over your feet. Make sure to apply henna between and under each toe. The paste will want to squish from between your toes while it is wet. Keep reapplying in layers.

            Let each layer dry, then apply again until the paste is opaque and even.  You can use a hair dryer to set each layer before beginning a new one.

            I’ve found that this works better than applying one thick coat. The first layer helps the second layer stick better, and it all dries much faster. If you slather on one super thick layer and try to dry it, the surface will dry but seal in underneath. Once you wrap your feet and get up, all that wet paste squishes out and slides around. Walking around with squishy paste against your feet is really weird.

If you do apply a thick layer, expect to wait a while for it to dry. Put your feet up in the sun, enjoy a beverage, take a nap…

Wrap

Once your final layer is dry to the touch, use toilet paper to wrap your feet like you are a mummy. Be generous. The layers closest to your feet will get damp and rip. You’ll want several layers over everything, especially the balls and heels of your feet, where you put most of your weight. Use some tape to hold it in place if necessary.

            Then, wrap your feet in plastic. Plastic wrap works well enough. So does a grocery bag. Secure with tape. Finally, pull on a pair of socks and you are ready to walk around!

            Again, I prefer to do this at night and sleep through the processing time. I’ve found that my feet are too fat to fit into any shoes once they are hennaed and wrapped.

Here, just the balls of the feet and toes were hennaed and wrapped.

Remove

In the morning (or after as many hours as you can stand), unwrap your feet and gently scrape the paste off with a wooden craft stick or the blunt edge of a butter knife. I prefer to do this either outside or sitting on the edge of the tub with my feet in the tub (paste bits are rinsed down the drain for easy cleanup). Use a stiff brush to clear the remaining flakes, and do a quick wipe with a clean, damp towel.

Getting Fancy

            Want to add some complexity to your hennaed fingertips and feet? Take a look at all of the free pattern books available at The Henna Page. You can even add gems, glitter, shimmering powders, and more.

These feet were hennaed and decorated in multiple steps. Toes and details were hennaed, left for several hours, and allowed to deepen with oxidation. Applying henna and removing after a short period of time created the bright orange stain. Finally, gilding and jewels were added.

Plant Dye Powders and Seasonal Allergies

Fall is upon us. For many, this means sniffling, sneezing, headaches, and itchy eyes. Some people who are sensitive to hay fever and seasonal allergies may notice that they are affected when mixing their henna for hair, while it is on their head, or after it is rinsed out. This is far from serious, and easy to fix.  If this sounds like you, keep reading to learn what may be happening and how to avoid experiencing discomfort in the future. 

Henna

In cases of itching, sneezing, headache and other mild allergy symptoms, henna itself is rarely the primary culprit. Allergies to henna itself are extremely rare. Rather, during times when histamine levels in the body are already high (spring, fall, or whenever you normally get seasonal allergies), the body can confuse plant dye powders with pollen or other actual allergens. As a result, some may notice an itchy scalp, headache, or other discomfort while dyeing their hair with henna, indigo, and/or cassia. Most of the time, this is easily ameliorated with an over-the-counter oral antihistamine.

              For those who have a genetic G6PD deficiency, exposure to lawsone and a number of other things such as fava beans can set off oxidative haemolysis. This is particularly dangerous for male infants with homozygous G6PD deficiency. This is not an allergic reaction, but important to keep in mind.

Indigo

Sensitivity to indigo powder is more common than to henna, and can cause dizziness or headaches for people who are allergic to mold spore. The presence of spore in indigo powder varies from batch to batch; if there is spore, the amount is minuscule and harmless except to a person with severe mold allergies.  Indigo leaves must be partially fermented to release the precursor, indoxyl, which will dye hair.  This partially fermented and dried indigo leaves are called vashma, the indigo used to dye hair. This change through microbial action is not unlike the process that changes wheat paste into bread dough; microbial action is necessary to make the base material useful. If your body is severely allergic to mold spore, you may have an allergic reaction to the remaining spore in fermented hair dye indigo through cross-sensitization.

A magnified image of mold spores.

Source: http://science.nationalgeographic.com/science/enlarge/allergy-mold-image.html

              To avoid indigo headaches, try not to inhale any particulates when mixing the paste, then apply and wrap quickly. Some people find that the smell of indigo is the main cause for their headaches. Mixing a spoonful of instant vanilla pudding powder can neutralize the smell. For others, switching from one type of indigo to the other (from Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara indigo to Ancient Sunrise® Sudina indigo or vice versa) or decreasing the amount of indigo used can minimize symptoms.

If I’m allergic to hair dye, is Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair safe to use?

Yes. You can feel safe in knowing that any reactions from Ancient Sunrise® plant dye powders are in no way related to para-phenylenediamine (PPD) sensitivity. Those who have allergies to conventional hair dyes can safely use Ancient Sunrise® products. Unless you have a G6PD deficiency, as mentioned above, any reaction to henna or other plant dye powders will be mild and far from life-threatening.

If it’s not seasonal allergies, then what’s happening?

Besides seasonal allergies, there are other explanations for the discomfort some can experience while using henna for hair, and they all have easy solutions.

Headache: If you experience a feeling of tension and pressure while the paste is on your head, it may be due to the weight of the paste. This is especially common for those who have thick and long hair. This weight can put pressure or strain on the neck, causing headaches. Make sure to apply and wrap in a way that makes your head and neck feel comfortably balanced. If you are able to, spend most of the processing time sitting or lying down in a position where your head is supported. Some prefer to apply their mix at night, and leave it in as they sleep.

              Headaches can also come from the altered direction of the hair follicles. Our hair tends to grow in a certain direction. When we apply a henna paste, it pulls and holds it in a different direction than it is used to, causing some minor discomfort. Play around with the way you apply your paste. Some prefer to arrange their hennaed hair in several twisted sections. Others try to keep their hair in its natural direction, twisting the length into a bun at the base of their neck.

Apply and wrap in a way that is comfortable for you.

              It is also helpful to note that applying henna to the full length of the hair is not necessary if you have previously hennaed your hair. Unless you would like to deepen the color further, a root application will suffice. Henna will not fade from the hair. Root applications will cut down on the amount of paste used, and therefore the amount of weight on your head. It’s also more cost effective!

Itchy scalp: Some notice that their scalp feels dry and itchy after dyeing their hair with plant dye powders. Seasonal allergies can definitely cause this. Other reasons include the acidity of the paste, and residue left over after rinsing.

              Henna is not drying nor damaging. However, some people are sensitive to certain fruit acids. Undiluted lemon juice can be too harsh for sensitive scalps, as can full-strength apple cider vinegar. If you use either in your mix and notice that your scalp feels dry or itchy afterward, dilute with distilled water, or consider using another fruit acid. Some find that they do better avoiding any citrus juice. Apple juice is quite gentle, but still acidic enough for an effective dye release. Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino and Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino fruit acid powders are the gentlest of the fruit acid powders offered by Ancient Sunrise®. They are derived from grapes.

              An itchy scalp and hair that feels dry can come from not fully rinsing out the paste. Plant powder residue, as it dries, can make the scalp itch the same way some dirt or sand might. It increases friction between hair strands, causing it to tangle. Be sure that your hair is fully rinsed by submerging and swishing it in warm water, then pulling a handful of conditioner through it to allow any excess plant particulates to slip out. If you prefer not to use conditioner, a vinegar rinse can help give the hair more slip as well. Follow with a good shampoo. Don’t be afraid to rinse and wash the hair multiple times.

              Because an effective henna treatment requires a person to shampoo their hair both before and after, the scalp can be pretty stripped of its natural oils. It may help to rub some oil or serum into the scalp after rinsing and drying the hair. Please do not put oils into your henna mix!

If you have any additional concerns about Ancient Sunrise® henna for hair and plant dye powders, feel free to call, email, or chat with Customer Service. Please note that they cannot diagnose, prescribe, or offer medical advice.

Oscar Wilde’s Hair and Skin: Investigations into His PPD Sensitization and Use of Henna

Oscar Wilde, famous novelist, poet, and playwright, lived a short and scandalous life during the turn of the 20th century, from 1854 to 1900. He is believed to be one of the first famous people to have had an allergy to para-phenylenediamine (PPD) from hair dye. His personal accounts and those from his friends and biographers leave no doubt that Wilde was prematurely gray, and that he used hair dye to cover his increasingly white hair. A study of paintings and drawings done of Wilde suggest that he may have tried henna products, as well.

              Oscar Wilde is known for works such as “The Picture of Dorian Gray,” “A House of Pomegranates,” and “The Importance of Being Earnest.” Having died at the young age of 46, he was in his lifetime no doubt prolific. He once wrote a play entirely in French, which, according to scholars, showed barely any trace of having been written by a non-native speaker. [2]

              However, during his lifetime, Wilde’s accomplishment as a writer was overshadowed by his notorious propensity for eating, drinking, and “sexual inversion” [1]. He was put to trial multiple times under the crime of homosexuality, and eventually imprisoned for two years from 1895 to 1897.

              At the time of his death, the cause was believed to be neurosyphilis, exacerbated by his gluttony and alcoholism. His reputation made such a diagnosis more than plausible. However, more recent medical professionals believed that the cause of his death was more likely to be a chronic ear infection which eventually spread to the brain. [1]

              Besides the worsening illness that eventually took his life, Wilde also suffered from a recurring rash that itched intensely and spread over his face, arms, back, and chest. This rash could not have been due to syphilis; syphilitic rashes do not itch. Wilde himself attributed it to some bad mussels he once ate. However the rash would disappear and reappear periodically for the rest of his life. The description of the rash was not consistent with an allergy to mussels. Scholars and medical professionals believe that this rash was more likely caused by a sensitization to para-phenylenediamine from the dye he used to mask his prematurely graying hair. [3] [4]

A younger Wilde, at age 28. (Keep the “favourite coat” part in mind for later.)

“Oscar Wilde in his favourite coat.” New York, 1882. Picture taken by Napoleon Sarony. Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Oscar_Wilde

Oscar Wilde’s Gray Hair: A Story in Letters, Photos, and Portraits

Photography during Wilde’s lifetime provides little help in determining the exact color of Wilde’s hair during his youth, the time when it began to gray, nor the exact shade to which he dyed it. Wilde himself was not likely to discuss his use of hair-dye, as he was exceptionally vain and was a lover of youth and beauty. For most of his life, his friends were largely unaware that he was graying, and he probably preferred it that way.

              In order to pull together some information about Wilde’s hair, one can turn to written documents from Wilde’s close friends, and to the portraits painted of him.

              In a letter written by Wilde’s friend, Robert Ross, to friend and biographer Frank Harris, Ross writes of Wilde’s hair during the month preceding his death.

               Ross wrote, “I noticed for the first time that his hair was slightly tinged with grey. I had always remarked that his hair had never altered its colour while he was in Reading; it retained its soft brown tone. You must remember the jests he used to make about it, he always amused the warders by saying that his hair was perfectly white.”

              Frank Harris responded, “I noticed at Reading that his hair was getting grey in front and at the sides; but when we met later, the grey had disappeared.” [4]

              During the decline of his health, Wilde likely had trouble keeping up with dyeing his hair. This would have led to Ross’ remark. Reading Gaol (pronounced “Redding Jail”) was the prison in which he served most of his time. From the friends’ accounts, one could deduce that Wilde had some access to hair dye while in Reading, but maybe not as regularly, allowing Harris to witness Wilde’s gray from root growth or perhaps fading dye.

              Information about Oscar Wilde’s changing hair color can also be gleaned from comparisons between paintings of Wilde in his early years and those of him from just prior to the time of his death. In the portrait below, done of Wilde when he was 27 years old, he has deep brown hair. In the photos, his hair also appears to be rather dark, perhaps a medium to dark brown.

“Robert Goodloe Harper Pennington, “Portrait of Oscar Wilde.” 1881.

Source: https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2016/dec/13/oscar-wilde-portrait-to-have-first-uk-exhibition-robert-goodloe-harper-pennington

The photograph below, taken in 1882, would have shown Wilde at age 28. Again, it seems his hair is rather dark, and that Wilde was rather vain. It cannot be precisely determined when Wilde began to gray, and when he began to dye his hair, but there is a clear difference between the brunette tones seen in his early life and the bright, orange and blonde tones seen later.

“Oscar Wilde by Napoleon Sarony, with hat and cape, 1882” Source: https://www.cmgww.com/historic/wilde/photos/

While Ross described Wilde’s hair as “soft brown” during his time in Reading Gaol, the following paintings show his hair to be a blonde to light copper color. It must be taken into account that artists are afforded their creative freedom in choosing color; however, it is interesting to note that both the portrait of Oscar Wilde by Toulous Lautrec and the works by Ricard Opisso show him with light hair.

              The painting below is Lautrec’s portrait of Wilde, done in 1895 during the time of Wilde’s trial prior to his imprisonment. It is reported that Lautrec wanted Wilde to sit for the painting, but that this was done from memory.

Henri de Toulous-Lautrec, “Portrait of Oscar Wilde.” 1895

Source: https://www.wikiart.org/en/henri-de-toulouse-lautrec/portrait-of-oscar-wilde-1895

              Variations of this painting exist. It is possible that Lautrec himself painted or printed multiple versions, or that the color of the image was altered in other ways. Here is another version of the same portrait, and a section from the painting’s original sketch. Notice that even in the sketch, Wilde’s hair is not shaded in, but left light.

Sources: (left) http://flavorwire.com/414089/7-rediscovered-paintings-by-famous-artists/8

(right) https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Wilde-1896-Toulouse-Lautrec.jpg

              Ricard Opisso, Catalan artist and cartoonist, also drew and painted Oscar Wilde around the same time, often showing him with Lautrec in the cafes and dance halls where they spent much of their time.

Ricard Opisso, “Oscar Wilde” 1880.

Source: https://www.invaluable.com/artist/opisso-sala-ricardo-hwcdvmmmp0

Oscar Wilde sits next to painter Toulouse Lautrec at a cafe. His hair in this painting is a deep yellow.

“Interior de cafè amb Toulouse Lautrec i Oscar Wilde” by Ricard Opisso. Not dated.

Source: Pinterest, saved from http://www.francescmestreart-shopping.com/en/?portfolio-item=ricard-opisso

Here, The viewer sees Wilde to the left of Lautrec. His hair is an orange tone.

Ricard Opisso, title and date unknown. Source: http://www.artneutre.net/2006/12/airs-de-paris-reus.html

              The two latter images above are not dated, but it can be assumed that Opisso created them around the same time as the first. They take place in Paris, where Wilde spent most of his time from 1880 to the end of his life, save for his stint in prison. Opisso himself was from Spain, and was only documented to have visited Paris, not to have spent any length of his time living there. Note that all of Oppiso’s images of Wilde show him with light copper or blond hair.

Did Oscar Wilde Use Henna, and If So, Why?

              While there is no doubt that Oscar Wilde was prematurely gray and that he used hair dye to mask the fact, only guesses can be made about the kinds of hair dyes he used. A brunette during his younger life, he no doubt wished to maintain a similar hair color when he first began to gray.

              Hair dyes available during the late 19th century had very little regulation. PPD was initially introduced as a fur dye in 1883, patented by a man from Paris, named P. Monnet et Cie. By the 1890s, it was adopted by hair stylists across the western world. The first commercially available PPD hair dye was produced in 1910, a decade after Wilde’s death. This means that if he had dyed his hair with a product containing PPD, it was either at a salon or with a dye labeled for use on fur. The latter is not a ridiculous thought, as products have always been used for purposes outside of their labels. Many early hair dyes were marketed for both hair and for fur. Wilde owned many articles of clothing made of fur. He would have purchased such products to maintain them, and could have used the rest on his own hair.

This is an advertisement for a hair and fur dye from 1885. A “sealskin sacque” was a popular style of jacket with a fur collar. Wilde has been photographed and painted in such a coat.

              Regulation of products containing PPD did not begin until 1938, in the United States. Oscar Wilde lived in the UK and France several decades before that. The products Wilde used most likely contained a high level of PPD, and possibly metallic salts and other additives. The location of his rash would make sense as a reaction to PPD; dye can easily get on the face, chest, back, and arms if a person is applying it at home.

              Henna for hair was available in western countries at this time as well. Proper techniques for mixing and applying henna were not yet known to those in western countries. The quality of the products would have been low, as well. Henna was advertised as an exotic product from far-off lands, which was greatly appealing to the people of that era. Women with red hair were seen as alluring. Most of the dancers and sex workers in Paris hennaed their hair to make themselves more beautiful and noticeable.

              Lautrec himself was fascinated with women with hennaed hair. He painted them frequently. These women appear in his paintings with red, tangerine, and yellow hair similar to the colors of Wilde’s hair in Lautrec’s and Oppiso’s depictions of him. Lautrec spent much of his time with prostitutes and dancers who hennaed their hair. As Wilde and Lautrec were close friends, Wilde would have known them as well.

 Notice that all of the women’s hair are shades of red. 

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, “In the Salon of Rue des Moulins.”1894.

Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Henri_de_Toulouse-Lautrec_012.jpg

              A woman named Jane Avril was a friend and muse to Lautrec, and a can-can dancer at the Moulin Rouge. There is no doubt that Jane Avril used henna. Lautrec painted her often for both portraits and posters. Her hair appears in shades from yellow to red, as well. Comparing Lautrec’s color choices for Avril’s hair, which was definitely hennaed, and Wilde’s, one can see that it is very likely that Wilde also used henna.

In this poster of Jane Avril, her hair is golden.

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, “Jane Avril.” 1899. Source:  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lautrec_jane_avril_(poster)_1899.jpg

Lautrec paints himself sitting among his friends. At the center, Jane Avril’s bright orange hair grabs the viewer’s attention.

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, “At the  Moulin Rouge” 1892/95.

Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Henri_de_Toulouse-Lautrec_-_At_the_Moulin_Rouge_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg

              Henna for hair products were not much better than conventional dyes at the time. The products that were sold to the western world contained low quality henna and a myriad of additives. Techniques for henna mixing and application were also lacking. Henna mixed with boiling water produced a light, brassy result which faded. This could be a possible explanation for both Avril’s and Wilde’s variations in hair color.

              If Wilde had a PPD sensitization, there is no indication that he made the connection between his rashes and his hair dye. Very little research had been done on PPD sensitization and the dangers of hair dye at the time. The early research and warnings came about in the early 1900s, after Wilde’s death. Wilde would not have thought, “It must be the PPD in the hair dye. I should try something else.” Nor would a doctor have recommended him to do so. It is unlikely that he chose henna as a safer alternative. Henna at the time contained metallic salts and possibly PPD.

Examples of early henna for hair products. These would have been from the early half of the 1900s They often contained low quality, stale, chunky henna, other ingredients.

              At any rate, Wilde thought little of doctors and their attempts to convince him to eat and drink less, and to exercise more. Wilde’s love of food and drink came before his concern for his personal health. Wilde equally loved youth and beauty. Because accounts show that his rash continued on and off until his death, it is more likely that Wilde continued to dye his hair, perhaps switching between conventional dyes and henna-based ones.

              Additionally, there is no record of Wilde stating that he felt the rashes may have been from hair dye. Instead, he continued to think that the initial rash came from consuming bad mussels, and then popped up every so often after he indulged too much. “I’m alright, Frank,” He told his friend, “but the rash continually comes back, a ghostly visitant. It generally returns after a good dinner, a sort of aftermath of champagne.” [1]

              This sort of reaction is not consistent with an allergy to mussels or seafood, unless the “good dinner” that preceded the rash always contained mussels. He did not say “It generally returns every time I eat more mussels.”

              More likely is that Wilde experienced a delayed hypersensitivity reaction to PPD. Reactions to PPD do not always occur immediately after exposure. Medical professionals stress the importance of doing a delayed read of patch tests at 96 hours for this reason [3]. If Wilde expected to go out to enjoy a dinner or part with company, he might have dyed his hair the day before to ensure that his friends would not see any gray roots. By the day or two after the dinner, his rash would be present.

How Far Did the Allergy Go?

While his death is now believed to be the result of a chronic ear infection, some hypothesize that this could have been an extension of his allergy to PPD.  While in prison, Wilde one day felt ill and fainted, and his ear bled. He reported that his ear continued to bleed and discharge afterwards. The condition worsened, causing partial deafness.  He eventually had an operation performed by a doctor in his hotel room in Paris shortly before his death. Details are not known about the exact nature of this operation.

              PPD can cause severe blistering and weeping sores on the skin. It is not impossible to think that if Wilde had managed to get hair dye into his ear earlier on, that is could have caused a reaction that continued to worsen, growing into an infection and collection of pus in the inner ear. The inside of the ear is a difficult place to clean, and as it is warm and damp, is an ideal place for infection to grow. Having blisters and weeping sores would have made the skin inside the ear particularly vulnerable to bacteria.

Final Notes

Because of the lack of medical records, Wilde’s unlikeliness to discuss personal health and grooming, and the inadequacy of medical knowledge during this time, it is impossible to determine for sure the cause of Wilde’s skin condition. However, there is enough evidence to believe that it was contact dermatitis caused by sensitivity to para-phenylenediamine in hair dye.

              While it would have been wonderful to say, “Oscar Wilde knew the dangers of conventional hair dye and chose henna as a safe alternative,” there is simply no evidence behind this statement, and it would not fit into the facts of PPD knowledge and available henna products of the time. If he did use henna, it was simply because it was there. Henna for hair products at the end of the 19th century were not much safer, nor was the knowledge of proper mixing and application available in the west.

              All that can be done is to piece together information from photography, art, letters, and accounts written by Wilde’s close associates. Having done this, the conclusion to be drawn is the following: Oscar Wilde definitely had premature gray hair; he definitely dyed his hair; he very likely had a PPD allergy; and he probably used henna, although not to replace PPD-based dyes.

              Wilde, now loved for his writing and known for his flamboyant and rule-breaking ways, can be considered one of the first celebrities to become sensitized to para-phenylenediamine, and can tentatively hold a place in the hall of “hennaed divas.”

References

[1] Cawthorne, Terence. “The last illness of Oscar Wilde.” (1959): 123-127.

[2] Critchley, Macdonald. “OSCAR WILDE A MEDICAL APPRECIATION.” Medical history 1, no. 3 (1957): 199.

[3] Jacob, Sharon E., and Alina Goldenberg. “Allergic.”

[4] Nater, J. P. “Oscar Wilde’s skin disease: allergic contact dermatitis?.” Contact dermatitis 27, no. 1 (1992): 47-49.

Henna on Fingertips, Feet and Nails: Cosmetic and Practical Applications (Part One)

If you are familiar with using Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair, you will already know about the wonderful benefits of using henna. Hennaed hair is stronger, smoother, shinier, and has lasting color. Because of its many beneficial properties, henna (lawsonia inermis) has been used not only on the hair but on many parts of the body for various purposes since possibly as early as 1700 BCE.

            Lawsonia inermis grows naturally in hot, semi-arid climates. Regions include Northern Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and the Indian Subcontinent. Wherever it grew, the people of those regions found a use for it. It was likely discovered when livestock grazed on henna plants and herders noticed the red coloring around the animals’ mouths. If the herders inspected the animals’ mouths for wounds, thinking the dye was blood, they would have noticed that their hands had become stained as well.

            Henna has been used for both cosmetic purposes as well as practical applications. Its ability to stain keratin and condition the hair led to its use in grooming and beautifying practices for both women and men. Its additional health benefits made it useful for combating a number of skin conditions, as well as being visually appealing.

Cosmetic Applications

Henna is now more commonly known for its use in body art, such as the elaborate designs that cover the hands and feet of brides. Henna stands are popular at fairs, festivals, and in areas of tourism. Traditionally, henna is used to decorate the skin with patterns for religious and cultural celebrations, and simply for adornment. Apart from its use to create delicate, intricate designs, henna was also applied as a solid, even color on areas such as fingertips and feet for both beauty and practicality.

            Dancers and musicians hennaed their fingertips to bring more attention to the movement of their hands. A henna “slipper” on the feet was common in many cultures. Using henna for cosmetic applications was once as commonplace as using makeup or nail polish. In many cases, not applying henna would be something akin to not brushing one’s teeth; failing to do so would make a person seem dirty and neglectful of their personal hygiene.

Physical and Spiritual Cleanliness

Henna stains darkest on hands, feet, and hair.

Because henna was applied after washing, it indicated cleanliness, and therefore purity. This is especially the case with women. If a person’s hands, feet, and/or hair was freshly hennaed, one could assume that they had recently been to the public bath.

            It was assumed that illness was linked to the Evil Eye, and that henna repelled it. A freshly washed and hennaed body was both physically and spiritually clean. It was believed that the Evil Eye was particularly attracted to the bodily fluids of women. A woman was considered dirty and susceptible to the Evil Eye while during her period, after intercourse, and during childbirth; afterward, she washed and hennaed herself. Fresh henna stains showed that she was again clean and pure. In the case of a household with multiple wives, fresh henna marked the women with whom it was safe for the husband to interact.

A mother feeds her newborn. Her hands and feet are adorned with henna patterns. Her wet-nurse has brightly hennaed hands, feet, and hair.

“The Amah Feeds the Newborn” Detail from Life in The Country: The Nomad Encampment of Layla’s Tribe, Tabriz, 1539 – 43, Cambridge, Harvard University Art Museum 1958.75

Practical Applications

Remedies which included henna as an ingredient have been discovered in historical texts such as the Ebers Papyrus that date back to thousands of years ago.

            The Ebers Papyrus is a text from Ancient Egypt containing hundreds of detailed descriptions of remedies, pharmacopoeia, and formulas gathered and cataloged from numerous sources. It dates back to around 1550 BCE. Many of these remedies included henna as an ingredient. Of those, most common  were topical applications for hair and skin ailments.

            Modern day scientific studies have found that using henna as a remedy is more than an old wives’ tale.  Studies have shown the effectiveness of henna, and/or solutions derived from henna and its compounds, to be effective in anti-fungal, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, and even anti-cancer uses.  It has been found to expedite wound healing, and also to act as an analgesic against pain. Lawsone also provides natural UV protection to hair and skin. This protection lasts even after the stain has faded from the skin. This bodes well for future pharmaceutical innovations. Allergy to henna is extremely rare, and the spread of knowledge about practical applications for henna would keep henna agriculture sustainable.

            In addition to the above properties, the simple binding of the lawsone molecule strengthens keratin, reinforcing and conditioning the area to which it is applied.  This makes it extremely useful for protecting and conditioning hands, feet, and hair.

When henna paste is applied, the dye migrates into the surface layers of the stratum corneum. As it oxidizes, the stain darkens. The surface layers of skin are shed over time, and the lower layers grow to replace them.

Strengthening Skin and Lessening Pain

Henna’s dye molecule, lawsone, binds firmly to keratin, allowing it to stain skin, nails, and hair. When it does so, it adds reinforcement.

            When henna is applied to skin, the treated areas feel thicker, stronger, and less susceptible to pain. While it strengthened and protected skin, henna also helped to soften and shed excess rough skin and callus, keeping the skin smooth and attractive. Dancers hennaed their feet to make them more attractive and to keep their feet from blistering, cracking, and hurting after long hours of performing. Musicians did so as well, to protect their fingers as they played. Women who worked with their hands hennaed their fingertips for the same reason.

            It is likely that the pain receptors under the skin become somewhat dulled by the addition of lawsone. One study found that people with hennaed fingertips rated the pain of a needle prick lower in comparison to those without hennaed fingertips. This is helpful knowledge for those who prick their fingers to perform regular blood sugar testing.

Henna protects a musician’s fingertips.

A Lady Playing the Tanpura, Rajasthan, Kishangarh, ca. 1735, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Fletcher Fund, 1996 (1996,100.1) Indian Court Painting, 16th – 19th C

Anti-Fungal and Anti-Microbial Properties

Besides its capacity to bind to and stain keratin, henna was and still is used for its anti-fungal and antimicrobial qualities. Historically, it has been used to treat ailments such as athlete’s foot, diaper rash, and wounds. (Note: Do not apply henna to young children unless you are absolutely certain that they do not have a hereditary G6PD deficiency).

            Ringworm, athlete’s foot, and related skin fungus conditions seem to be eradicated with one or two good applications of henna. Dandruff, often caused by fungus, is lessened after a person uses henna on the hair. Henna is safe to use on animals to treat fungal infections.

1. Athlete’s foot (tinea pedis) blistering began at the yellow dot and spread as far as the orange dots.

2. Henna is thickly applied to the affected area and left for two hours. Itching ceased almost immediately upon application.

3. As the stain darkened, the infected area peeled away.

4. After several days and an additional application, the infected area had shed and new healthy skin grew in its place.

Wound Healing Properties

Henna speeds wound healing and decreases inflammation. Wounds appear to heal more quickly when henna is applied; however, if an open wound is stained with henna, the stain may become permanent when new skin grows over top. A weaker henna paste mixed with oil could be used on open wounds for minimal staining.

             In Saudi Arabia, henna is a recommended remedy for diabetic foot ailments, as it lessened pain and inflammation from diabetic neuropathy, and helped lesions heal quickly while deterring infection.

 It is rare to see art depicting men with hennaed feet. This man may have had diabetic neuropathy, or just tired feet.

Detail: “Nighttime in a Palace” (1539 – 43, Iran), folio from a manuscript, attributed to Mir Sayyid ‘Ali (Persian, 16th century), Arthur M. Sackler

Henna on the Fingertips and Nails

Henna can protect weak nails against chipping, breaking, and flaking. While skin regularly sheds its outer layers, causing a henna stain to fade after a couple of weeks, henna fades very little on nails. It remains there until the stained part has grown and is clipped away. If the nails have a fungus infection, henna would eradicate it.

Henna on nails and henna on fingertips. A fully oxidized stain on skin is a deep maroon brown.

            Using henna to stain fingernails dates back to ancient times, and has been practiced in many regions and cultures. In Ancient Egypt, henna was commonly used to stain fingernails, and it was even considered impolite to have unhennaed nails. Mummies have been discovered with bright orange hair and nails, likely due to the used of henna in preparing the body for burial.

The sarcophagus of the chantress Asru has darkened nails.  Circa 750 BCE.

            In Islamic and Orthodox Jewish cultures, it is important to keep clean for prayer. Use of conventional nail polish is not allowed because the coating prevents water from touching the surface of the nail. Hennaed nails are acceptable because henna stains the nail without coating it.

            A lower concentration of lawsone is also found in the leaves and flowers of garden balsam, a species of impatiens. In Korea, young girls crush the plant into a paste and apply it to their fingertips for a light orange stain.

From the St. Pancras Pattern Book by Catherine Cartwright-Jones

Henna on Feet

Henna keeps feet clean, protected, and conditioned. It is used to rid one of athlete’s foot and similar fungal ailments that affect the feet. Henna aids in the softening and shedding of calloused skin, leaving feet smooth and soft.

            Variations of the henna slipper can be seen in artwork and photographs from various cultures across time. This was done across the whole sole of the foot and toes, or just from the ball of the foot to the toes. A solid slipper was common for most; additional elaborate designs decorated the feet of brides, new mothers, and the upper class.

An illustration of Persian women’s fashion shows hennaed feet. From a book printed in Paris, France, late 19th century.

From the Spain Pattern Book by Alex Morgan, and the St. Pancras Pattern Book By Catherine Cartwright-Jones

This article is the first part of a two-part series. This section discusses the history and science behind the use of henna on various areas of the body. Part Two demonstrates how these techniques are done.

References

Bakhotmah, Balkees A., and Hasan A. Alzahrani. “Self-reported use of complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) products in topical treatment of diabetic foot disorders by diabetic patients in Jeddah, Western Saudi Arabia.” BMC research notes 3.1 (2010): 254.

David, A. R., and V. Garner. “Asru, an ancient Egyptian temple chantress: modern spectrometric studies as part of the Manchester Egyptian Mummy Research Project.” Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals (2003): 153-162.

Pradhan, Rohan, Prasad Dandawate, Alok Vyas, Subhash Padhye, Bernhard Biersack, Rainer Schobert, Aamir Ahmad, and Fazlul H Sarkar. “From body art to anticancer activities: perspectives on medicinal properties of henna.” Current drug targets 13, no. 14 (2012): 1777-1798.

Semwal, Ruchi Badoni, Deepak Kumar Semwal, Sandra Combrinck, Catherine Cartwright-Jones, and Alvaro Viljoen. “Lawsonia inermis L.(henna): ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects.” Journal of Ethnopharmacology 155, no. 1 (2014): 80-103.

Full Coverage: How to Transition from Hennaed Hair Back to Natural Roots

While we’d love for you to stay with us forever, there are many reasons a person may choose to stop using henna, or to return to their natural hair color. You may simply miss your natural color, or expect to have less time or money for hair coloring in your future. Some women have decided to let their natural gray hair grow out. Silver locks are in fashion as of late. Because henna is permanent, it is common to see a noticeable line of demarcation as the hair grows, especially if your treated hair is different from your natural hair color. A frequently asked question regarding transitioning is how to do so without getting a stark contrast between colored hair and roots as your hair grows out.

            There are a few different ways to achieve a gradual shift. Because Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products only add to the existing hair color, it is most likely that you will be going from a darker color to a lighter one. The exception to this rule is those who lighten their hair before applying henna. This article will cover techniques for both dark-to-light and light-to-dark transitions.

This hair has been lightened and then hennaed. The roots are black.

Transitioning to Lighter or Gray Roots

Henna as Lowlights

Rather than applying your mix to all of your roots, applying only in thin sections while leaving the remainder of your roots natural will create a highlight/lowlight effect with your natural color. You can ask a stylist to apply your mixture in foils, or you can do it yourself at home with a highlighting cap.

            A highlighting cap has holes through which to pull thin sections of hair while keeping the rest of the hair protected underneath. Pull through your desired sections, apply henna to those sections, and process as normal.  As your hair grows, gradually decrease your number of lowlights.

This person’s roots are mostly gray. Adding applying henna as lowlights would break up the root line.

Adding Cassia

Another option when transitioning is to adjust the mix itself so it becomes lighter. Cassia works to dilute and lighten the resulting shade of a henna or henna/indigo mixture.

            For example, if your regular mix is equal parts henna and indigo for a medium brunette result, you can create a mix of equal parts henna, indigo, and cassia for a lighter brunette. The next time, increase your amount of cassia again. Keep your original mix ratio the same, only increasing the amount of cassia you add to your mix.

            Below is an example of how a person might adjust with cassia over time. Keep in mind that everyone’s mix and hair color varies; this is only one example.  Don’t hesitate to contact customer service for help with a custom transition plan. Be sure to ask about measurements to avoid mixing too much, too little, or in the wrong ratios.

            Cassia should be dye-released with henna. Mix henna and cassia together and stir with an acidic liquid to create a paste, just as you would with henna. Cover your mixture and let it sit as normal. Mix and add your indigo paste just before applying.

            Feel free to experiment with test strands. When in doubt, always start lighter. If your root results are too light, you can always adjust afterward. For more helpful information about cassia mixes, be sure to read How to Dye Hair Blonde.

            In some cases, mixing with cassia leads to brighter or more golden-toned results. If you prefer a neutral shade my article on Cool and Neutral Mixes will help you keep your desired tone as you transition.

Lightening

As long as you have only used Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products, it is safe to use a chemical hair lightener. Ancient Sunrise® plant dye powders have been tested for purity, and do not contain any metallic salts or additives that may be unsafe to lighten.

            You may choose to lighten the full length of the hair, or to have highlights put in as your roots grow, to blend away the line of demarcation. Be sure to conduct a strand test first to determine the resulting color and whether your hair can withstand lightening.

Gather hair from your brush to test with lightener. Having a professional lighten your hair is always recommended.

            If you have been using a mix containing indigo, it is particularly important to conduct a strand test first. Indigo does not always lift completely from the hair. Hair that has been dyed with mixes of 50% indigo or more may see a blue or green cast remaining after lightening. The degree to which this happens varies from head to head, and also depends on how many shades you plan to lighten. Sometimes this is subtle and can be toned away. If you have been doing a two-step process for jet black hair and wish to lighten to platinum blonde, more likely than not you’ll find it won’t be possible.

Hair that has been dyed jet black with a two-step process may turn blue or green when lightened.

            For more information about lightening over henna, read the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair free e-book chapter on lightening.

Transitioning to Darker Roots

If you have chemically lightened your hair before applying henna, your root color may be darker than the length of your hair. The most straight-forward solution is to dye all of your hair with a mixture that will match your roots. This will result in a uniform color that blends seamlessly with your natural color.

            However, there may be reasons to perform a gradual transition. Perhaps you desire an ombré effect, or wish to be able to lighten your hair in the future.  For example, I currently have fiery red hennaed hair, and my natural hair color is virtually black. I like to play around with colors quite a bit, including fun, demi-permanent colors. If I were to use a two-step process to dye all of my hair back to black, I would have less flexibility if I chose to lighten in the future. I might not be able to achieve bright or pastel tones.

Henna as Highlights

This technique is similar to the one described above, only backward. Instead of applying a henna mixture to create lowlights, have a stylist create highlights in your hennaed hair to break up the root line.  As your hair grows, decrease the amount of highlights. If you wish, you may continue applying henna between highlighting. This will create a range of “fire-lights,” giving your hair beautiful dimension. The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair chapter on lightening covers this process in detail. 

            As mentioned above, be sure to conduct a strand test, especially if you have been using a mix containing indigo.

“Firelights” create depth and dimension while blurring the root line.

Condition and Strengthen Without Color

Even if you choose not to color your hair anymore, you can still use products from Ancient Sunrise® to keep your hair beautiful, shiny, and strong.

Cassia

Cassia has similar conditioning properties as henna, with little to no color change on darker hair. To use cassia as a conditioner, simply mix it with distilled water only (no juice or fruit acid) and apply immediately. When it has not released its dye, cassia will condition the hair without affecting color. If your hair is naturally dark brunette or black, you can dye-release cassia for extra conditioning benefits without seeing a change in your hair color. To learn more about using Ancient Sunrise® Cassia for conditioning, click here.

Zizyphus

For those with very light hair, even cassia that has not been dye-released may impart a subtle golden tone. Zizyphus spina christi is another great option for keeping hair strong and healthy without changing its color. Zizyphus is a natural 2-in-1 shampoo/conditioner that both washes and fortifies the hair. Because it leaves a thin layer of plant wax on the hair, it is particularly good for hair that is subject to water, wind, and other harsh environmental factors. Zizyphus balances the hair’s moisture and gives it great shine. Read more about Zizyphus here and purchase here.

Mix Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus spina christi with water and apply.
Rinse after a few minutes for strong, shiny hair.

As always, if you ever need advice or help, don’t hesitate to contact Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service.

Highlights: A Quick Trick for Freezing and Storing Leftover Henna Paste

A customer messaged me about a trick she learned from using piping bags and frosting, and sent me instructions on how she did it. This is really cool! It makes storing and thawing portions a breeze, and clean-up is so simple. You can even re-use the same carrot bag over and over, because the inside of the carrot bag stays clean. Thanks, Jeannine!

Note: Before freezing, be sure to dye release your henna.

Here’s how.

Separating and Freezing

1. Lay a rectangular piece of plastic wrap flat on your work surface.

2. Spoon your henna directly into the center of the plastic.

3. Fold the top and bottom edges of the plastic over the paste so each edge overlaps the paste completely.

4. Pinch the open sides together and twist. You can hold the sides and twirl your paste lump until both sides are tightly twisted. Don’t worry, henna will not go flying.

5. Repeat until all your paste is wrapped, and store in the freezer. (Note: sometimes the dye from the paste can leech through thin plastic. I put a piece of wax paper down in my freezer where I stored the portions.)

Thawing and Filling

1. When you need to use your paste, pull out a portion and allow it to thaw. Cut the tip of a carrot bag.

2. Once the paste is thawed, cut the tip of a carrot bag and drop the portion in so that one twisted end can be pulled out of the tip. (I’ve learned that it might help to tape the twisted end to help it thread through more easily, like licking the end of a thread.) Pull gently until the portion forms to the bag.

3. Close the open end of the carrot bag with a rubber band or clip, and cut the plastic wrap twist where it sticks out.

4. If you do not use all of the paste, simply tape the end and store.

5. When the carrot bag is empty, simply pull out the plastic wrap, rinse the carrot bag if needed, and put it away for next time!

If you have cool tricks and tips you’d like to share and see posted in the blog, feel free to email us at info@mehandi.com with “tips and tricks blog suggestion” in the subject line.

Author: Rebecca Chou September 2017
Edited: Maria Moore August 2017

How to Dye Beards and Facial Hair with Henna

Henna has been used to dye and condition beards and facial hair for just as long as it has been used for hair on the head. Henna was used to dye hair in Persia as early as 1000 BCE. Persian men used henna alone or in combination with indigo to cover grays and to keep beards conditioned and healthy.

              The use of henna for hair and beards was common throughout South Asia, the Arabian Peninsula, and the Middle East, and eventually spread to western regions, then throughout the world. At public baths, men relaxed and socialized while keeping up their washing and grooming habits, which included dyeing their beards. Henna made beards smoother, shinier, and stronger. 

A man receives a Turkish massage at a public bath. Ottoman Empire, early 20th century.

              In ancient times, Roman travelers noted that Persian men appeared to have woven gold wire through their beards. This was most likely a misinterpretation of their gray hairs which took on a copper shine after being hennaed. It was also common to dye the beard with indigo after it was hennaed, to achieve a jet black result. This is known as the two-step process.

A section from “Body Marking in Southwestern Asia” by Henry Field. The observer describes the beard grooming rituals of Persian men.

              In some cultures and regions, hennaed beards are seen as a sign of piety for Muslim men. Some interpretations of Islamic texts forbid men from dyeing their beards with anything but henna. Others see a hennaed beard as the mark of a hajji, or a person who has made the pilgrimage to Mecca. Photographer GBM Akash did a photo essay on the bright, hennaed beards of older Bangladeshi men, which you can see here.

              Of course, the use of henna and other plant dyes is not exclusive to the Islamic faith. Henna is simply a product and technique which has been used in the contexts and regions where it naturally grows. As trade and travel grew, henna spread into western use.

              Beards dyed with henna do not have to be bright orange. Just like it is used with the hair, combinations of henna and indigo (or henna, indigo, and cassia) can dye the beard to any natural color. A two-step process of dyeing the beard first with henna and then with indigo will result in jet black. Not only will using henna and other plant dye powders give you a more lustrous, thick, shiny beard; it has many benefits, including being safer for your health.

Switching from Commercial Dyes to Plant Dyes

Hair dyes marketed to men differ very little in their composition from hair dyes marketed to women. Most of them contain para-phenylenediamine. Contact dermatitis reactions to PPD will cause blistering, swelling, and difficulty breathing.  When using such a product so close to the nose and mouth, these symptoms maybe particularly dangerous. Symptoms may worsen with each exposure, and can lead to hospitalization.

These products all contain para-phenylenediamine.

              While it is true that fewer men than women use dyes, men are also less likely to discuss their hair dye use or to seek help when they experience adverse reactions. If men are unaware of the cause of their symptoms, they may continue to use products containing PPD and experience worsening reactions that may become life-threatening.

              A series of class action suits is being pursued against Just For Men hair and beard dye for PPD-related injuries and the company’s potential failure to properly advise a skin patch test. One suit argues that the recommended patch test on the inner arm does not adequately predict and protect against reactions on the face, which can be more sensitive. Click here, here, and here for a few examples of current suits. If you have been affected by a PPD reaction from using a product by this company, consider searching for a class action suit in your area. A successful suit may contribute to better responsibility and regulation on the part of companies which manufacture and sell dyes containing PPD.

              If you are interested in switching to Ancient Sunrise® products, our customer service team is more than happy to help you through the process. Ancient Sunrise® products can be used directly over previously processed hair without a waiting period, and will not react adversely to any products previously applied on the hair.

How to Dye Beards

The Mix

If you are familiar with how to mix henna, indigo, and cassia to achieve your desired color result, the mix for facial hair is exactly the same, but in smaller quantities. The average beard will probably need about 30-50 grams total of dry powder to create enough paste to cover. For a short, trim beard, you will need less. If you are Gandalf, you may need 100-200 grams or more. If you need help determining how much product to use, feel free to contact Customer Service.

              You may want to keep the paste a little thicker to prevent dripping. This is especially recommended if you are dyeing a mustache, as it may be quite uncomfortable to have paste dripping onto the mouth. If you are new to using plant dye powders, be sure to check out Bare Essentials, Choosing Your Mix, and the Ancient Sunrise® free Henna for hair E-Book to get started.

              Remember that you will be keeping the paste on your face for about three hours. If you are sensitive to the smell of henna, add a few pinches of ginger powder or cardamom powder to neutralize the smell. If you dislike the smell of indigo, add a few pinches of vanilla pudding powder.

This dashing dude would need about 50-75 grams of powder to create enough paste for his beard and ‘stache.

Cleansing and Preparing

Facial hair can be dye-resistant, as it is thicker and grows quickly. Unlike hair on the head, it does not have the opportunity to be worn down by the elements (unless you have an impressively long beard). New hair is less porous than hair that has been subject to washing, brushing, and other forms of friction. Facial hair, like hair on the head, is kept moisturized and hydrophobic with a layer of sebum produced by the skin. It is important to make sure that your facial hair is extremely clean in order to achieve the best dye uptake.

              It may be a good idea to exfoliate the skin with a good facial scrub or a stiff beard brush. The skin under facial hair can be dry and flaky. While henna does not stain skin on the face and head very well, scrubbing will further prevent staining, as henna binds to dry, thick skin. The last thing you’ll want is to have orange flaky bits hanging out in your luscious beard. A bonus to henna is that is has anti-fungal properties. If you experience dandruff around your facial hair, henna will take care of that. Scrubbing will also help lift the cuticles of the hair to better accept dye.

              If you live in an area with hard water, clarifying with Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment is recommended. This will take care of any mineral buildup that can prevent adequate dye up-take, and ensure a better color result.

              Wash your beard with a clarifying shampoo or a bit of dish detergent just prior to application. Once your face is scrubbed, clarified, and clean, you are ready to apply your paste.

Application

Make sure your paste has been prepared and dye-released at this point. If you wish, apply Vaseline or lip balm along the edges of your facial hair to prevent any staining that might occur. If you are applying to a mustache, you may want to put on lip balm as well. Be sure not to get any oil-based product on the hair itself. As mentioned previously, henna does not tend to leave a dark or lasting stain on the face, but it is always good to avoid looking like an oompa-loompa for a day.

              Use gloved hands to apply the paste little by little, ensuring that the paste is worked down all the way to the skin, and the hair is thickly covered. Apply paste to the roots and pull it through to the ends. Press the hair down, or in the case of very long beards, twist it into rolls and press the rolls firmly into place.

Thick, long beards will need to be hennaed in section to ensure even coverage.

Wrapping

Use a damp cotton swab to clean up the edges of your facial hair; your neck, lips, nostrils, ears, and so forth. Cover your facial hair with plastic wrap. One way to do this is to create a wide strip with holes on each end. Press the plastic along your chin and jaw, and loop the holes around your ears like a medical mask. For mustaches, cut a thinner piece and press it along your upper lip. Make sure you can breathe comfortably.

              If desired seal the edges of the plastic with medical tape under the jaw to keep the plastic on place and prevent dripping. Finally, wrap the face with a scarf or bandanna, or put on a ski mask.

Processing

Just like on the head, henna mixes need about three hours or more to process for best results. Unfortunately, this means you’re stuck with paste on your face for a while. You can use heat to speed up the process. Men used to henna their beards as part of their regular bathing routine, and relax in the steamy public bath or sauna. Hang out in a steamy bathroom or steam your face for a few minutes at a time. You could also apply a heating pad to your face periodically. Be sure to avoid long exposure to high heat, as this can be damaging to the delicate skin on the face.

Rinsing

Wash out the paste with warm water. You can do this over the sink, or submerge your face in a warm bath and swish it around. Apply conditioner and pull it through to help any residual paste rinse away. Finally, finish with shampoo or face cleanser. Remember to moisturize your beard and face after all that it’s been through.

Here is Mark’s beard before and after an application of henna and indigo.

Touch-ups

Facial hair grows quickly. How frequently you re-apply your henna mix will be dependent on your facial hair style and personal preference. If you keep your beard clipped short, you may need to touch it up more frequently, as you shave away the areas that are dyed.

              It will be helpful to have henna on hand that is pre-mixed, separated into portions, and frozen. If you are using only henna and/or cassia, simply thaw a portion and apply. If you are using a mix containing indigo, thaw your henna paste, mix fresh indigo, and stir them together.

Freeze henna paste into cubes for easy storage and future use.

              Once you have dyed all of your facial hair once, it is not necessary to do all of it again. You can use a tool such as a small tinting brush or an old toothbrush to help you apply paste just at the roots. This will keep reapplications clean, easy, and affordable.

              Reapplications will require the same preparation and processing methods as your first dye. Remember to thoroughly clean the facial hair and face beforehand, and leave the paste in for three hours, or less if applying gentle heat.

              If you are using a henna/indigo mix to dye graying hair to a brunette shade, and notice your facial hair becoming lighter or redder over time, you can easily darken it up again with a quick application of indigo paste. Simply mix about a tablespoon of indigo with distilled water, apply through your facial hair, and rinse after 10-15 minutes. This technique can be repeated until you achieve your desired results, and used as often as necessary. Note: Unless you would like to have a blue beard, do not apply indigo alone to gray hair.

For more information, read http://www.hennaforhair.com/beards. To speak to a customer service representative and/or to place an order, visit www.mehandi.com.

What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)

This article serves as the introduction to a series on Para-phenylenediamine (PPD): its health risks, history, and politics. In the coming weeks, articles will be published which explore each section in greater detail.

              Para-phenylenediamine, or a chemically related -diamine is an ingredient used in virtually all oxidative hair dyes, both store-bought and used in salons. The oxidative dye process is formulated to quickly penetrate and stain the hair strand any color, including lightening hair by removing the pigment from the core of the hair and dyeing over it.  Brunette and black hair dyes contain higher concentrations of PPD, though all colors can contain PPD.

              Para-phenylenediamine can present a multitude of health risks if it is inhaled or if it comes in contact with skin. Despite a well-documented history of allergic reaction, sensitization, increased risk of cancer, and other serious health risks, it continues to be allowed in hair dyes at a maximum of 6% concentration in the United States.  

              The rate of PPD sensitization is increasing, but many doctors, hairstylists, and consumers remain unaware or apathetic. A lack of knowledge about PPD leads to continuation of serious reactions for people who use products containing PPD and related ingredients. It also allows companies which manufacture and sell products containing PPD to do so with relatively no regulation nor legal repercussion.

              Educating consumers about the dangers of PPD and safer alternatives is becoming an increasingly important mission at Ancient Sunrise®.

The molecular structure of Para-Phenylinediamine.

1. PPD is highly sensitizing, and studies link it to lupus, non-Hopkins lymphoma and asthma.  Allergic reactions can cause severe injuries, and can be fatal.

The hazards of para-phenylenediamine have been known since its introduction for use as an industrial fur dye, and in personal hair dyes. Academic articles from as early as 1915 warn against it. Symptoms of allergic reactions to para-phenylenediamine may include itching, swelling, hives, blistering, depigmentation, and permanent scarring; the reaction is a delayed hypersensitivity reaction, often occurring 3 to 30 days after application, so they are frequently misdiagnosed.

 There have been an increasing number of fatal anaphylaxis reactions to PPD hair dye in recent years, particularly when people have previously had a PPD ‘black henna’ temporary tattoo. The allergic reactions often require emergency treatment to keep airways open, and further treatment in an ICU or burn ward.  A person may additionally experience difficulty breathing and swelling of body parts near the site of exposure. In the case of hair dye use, this means swelling of the face, eyes, and throat. Reactions near the eyes can cause damage and loss of sight.

This woman experienced a severe reaction to a hair dye claiming to be henna, but which contained PPD. Article here.

In countries where products with high PPD levels are easily accessible, ingesting hair dye is a known method of suicide and murder; women can generally purchase hair dye without arousing suspicion. Ingestion of PPD can lead to respiratory distress, rhabdomyolysis (muscle death), and renal failure.

PPD exposure has been linked to increased chances of certain cancers as well as asthma and non-Hodgkins lymphoma. Despite all this, PPD is legal for use on hair within the United States at up to a 6% concentration. Cosmetics companies continue to tout PPD as a safe ingredient despite decades of research, case studies, and hospitalizations.

2. There is no requirement to disclose the concentration percentage of PPD in products manufactured in the US.

Regulation of PPD varies greatly by country. The United States limits PPD to up to a 6% concentration in hair dye. The FDA differentiates between products used for hair coloring, and products applied directly on the skin because hair dyes are supposed to be used off the scalp and washed away after a period of time. In reality, those who apply hair dye at home will apply the product to the scalp, and will not always follow processing time instructions.

 Even when these products are applied correctly, there is no guarantee that the customer will not develop a sensitization or a reaction. The dye may drip onto the scalp, face, neck or ears during processing time. For some, this brief contact with a low concentration may be all that it takes.

Other countries have a higher limit or no limit at all on concentration levels. These products are easy enough to purchase over the internet. They can also be found at international grocery stores. When hair dye is sold in powder form, concentration is directly dependent on the amount of water mixed with the powder. One study found that packages of black hair dye manufactured in India and China (often sold as black henna) contained 12.5% to over 30% PPD, far in excess of legally allowed levels. Other samples have been found to have as high as 60% PPD.

3. “Black Henna” body art is not henna. It is illegal, but laws are not well enforced.

“Black henna” appeared in the United States and flourished seemingly overnight in the 90’s, spurred by Madonna’s “Frozen” music video released in 1998. in the video, her hands are decorated with black henna patterns.  These were done with Bigen black hair dye at the Ziba salon in Los Angeles. Based on first injury reports, it can be estimated that henna artists from South Asia have been using high PPD black hair dye since the 1980’s as “black henna.” Pop-up stalls in tourist locations offered temporary body art that stained the skin black very quickly, and lasted for two to four weeks. “Black henna” created the illusion of a real tattoo without the permanence or pain (unless one experiences a reaction). Black henna body artists were transient and often unaware of the dangers of their own materials.

This person experienced a reaction and now has permanent scarring from a “black henna” tattoo gotten while on vacation.

Within the United States and most countries, PPD is illegal for direct use on skin unless it is for cultural purposes. While imported shipments of “black henna” body art products are regularly seized by customs, it is easy enough to purchase hair dyes containing PPD, which are not subject to seizure, and to use them on the skin.  Dyes from countries with more lenient laws may report only “color powder” as an ingredient. Some international brands of popularly used for “black henna” body art contain as high as 30% PPD concentration, more than enough to sensitize an unsuspecting client in one exposure. A solid form of pure PPD is sold as “henna stone” from the banks of the Nile River, which creates instant black results for body art. This leads uninformed buyers to believe that a) the product is natural and safe; and b) that natural henna produces a black stain.

“Henna stone” is not natural. It is a solid piece of industrial grade PPD, at up to 90% concentration.

The use of high concentrations of PPD for henna-like body art gained popularity first in East Africa in the 1970’s. The product was less expensive and required an easier preparation than natural henna. It provided instant, black results which mimic the look of a permanent tattoo, and are more visible on darker skin tones. This practice then moved into Western countries, especially in high tourism areas.

Darker areas show where “black henna” is used as part of tourism; gray areas show where vacationers return home.

Enforcing laws against the use of PPD on skin would require law enforcement officials to patrol  high tourism areas such as beach fronts and piers where stalls are often set up. These stalls are transient, closing and opening in new locations. A solo artist could set up and work out of a toolbox, moving throughout the day. As mentioned earlier, many products containing high concentrations of PPD are not properly labeled, making it even more difficult to enforce bans.

In many cases, by the time a customer experiences a reaction to their “black henna” body art, the artist has long moved on to a new location, making it near impossible for health professionals to acquire a sample of what was used on the customer’s skin.

  Www.mehandi.com sells Temptu professional-grade skin paint, which does not stain the skin and does not contain PPD, but which is water-resistant and can mimic the look of a black tattoo for up to seven days.

This design was done with Temptu paint. You can find it here and learn how here.

For more information about “black henna” tattoos and their dangers, visit http://www.hennapage.com/henna/ppd/index.html.

4. PPD sensitization can happen to anyone.

Research has shown that with enough exposures to high enough concentrations of PPD, anyone will develop a sensitization to PPD. In a well known study, 100% of subjects exposed to 10% concentrations of PPD developed a reaction within five patch tests. Rate of sensitization varies greatly among individuals. For some, it may take only one exposure to a lower concentration. Though the oxidative hair dye industry claims that fewer than 3% of people are allergic to hair dye, many studies have shown that number to be higher, and coroner Geoff Fell estimates that 14% of people are allergic to oxidative hair dye.

“Black henna” artists use a mixture that is 15% PPD or more. The chances of becoming sensitized to PPD after getting a “black henna” tattoo is about 50% Once sensitized, a person will experience a reaction the next time they come in contact with PPD.  Of the people who are sensitized to PPD from a “black henna” tattoo, about 40% will experience a severe reaction upon their next exposure. This might be another “black henna” tattoo, or it could be years later, when that person decides to dye their hair. Even if the first exposure did not cause any reaction, the body can still have become sensitized. The next time this person comes in contact with PPD, they may experience a severe reaction without any understanding of the cause.

People who work in professions that require frequent contact with PPD can quickly develop sensitivities. Hair stylists who become PPD sensitive can no longer work at a traditional salon without experiencing reactions. PPD was once also used in fur-dyeing, leading to high rates of sensitization in fur industry workers.

5. Those who develop sensitivities to PPD may experience worsening symptoms with each exposure.

Reactions are not always immediate and severe. Oftentimes, reaction symptoms start out mild and worsen each time a person makes contact with the compound. A person who has dyed their hair using an oxidative dye for several years may at first experience no reaction, then one day notice some itching or burning, or have puffy eyes after applying hair dye. The next application might cause more painful symptoms. Before long, that person could require emergency hospital care for a reaction that has caused intense swelling to the entire face and head, and difficulty breathing.

Actor Pauley Perette had a typical progression of reaction: she had dyed her blonde hair black for twenty years, and the allergic reactions presented progressively until it was life-threatening. Follow the link here for additional news articles about PPD reactions.

Image source: IMDb and NYDailyNews

In 2012, a woman in the UK died after experiencing a reaction to an over-the-counter hair dye. Further investigation discovered she had previously gotten a “black henna” tattoo, which likely had sensitized her to future encounters with PPD. While this is an extreme case, it is not at all uncommon for people to become sensitized via exposure to a high concentration of PPD from a “black henna” tattoo, and go on to later use a dye containing PPD. People can become sensitized without experiencing an initial reaction. Those who do experience a reaction from “black henna” tattoos are usually unaware that commercial hair dyes contain the same ingredient.

One study discovered that even after participants were determined by way of patch test to have a PPD sensitivity, more than half continued to use hair dyes anyway. These participants were ones who experienced more mild reactions; those with severe reactions reported stopping hair dye. This shows that the average patient does not take their sensitization seriously, and is willing to endure a mild reaction for the sake of maintaining their desired hair color.

6. PPD sensitization can lead to cross-sensitization to related compounds.

Para-phenylinediamine is an aromatic amine in the benzodiamine family. Studies have shown that those with PPD sensitizations may also be sensitive to other benzodiamines, toluenediamines, analgesics such as benzocaine and lidocaine, azo-dyes, and PABA (para-aminobenzoic acid). The FDA lists examples of cross-sensitization here.

              Hair dyes that are labeled “PPD free” may contain para-toluenediamine, a compound similar enough to elicit reactions for those who have PPD sensitivities, causing “PPD free” hair dyes to be just as problematic.

 Unless tested in a clinical setting, it is unlikely that the average person who is sensitized to PPD will be aware of cross-sensitizations. This leaves them vulnerable to reactions from other sources, such as fabric dyes, cosmetics, black rubber (like that used to create car tires) pain relieving and numbing agents both administered in a hospital and bought over-the-counter, and even sunblock lotion.

Those who experience reactions from cross-sensitization may be frustrated and confused as to what is causing their allergies, and what products to avoid. A doctor may recognize a PPD sensitization and recommend their patient to stop using hair dyes containing PPD; however, if a patient has an unknown cross-sensitization, they may continue to present with similar symptoms without realizing the link.

7. The rate of PPD sensitization is growing.

The combination of an increased use in hair dye among younger people, and the explosion of the “black henna” industry in tourists areas has allowed for a jump in the rate of PPD sensitization. The most common source of sensitization for children and young adults is “black henna” tattoos. As mentioned above, the concentration of PPD in products used for “black henna” is extremely high, leading to a higher likelihood of sensitization in comparison to exposure to lower concentrations. This creates a population of youth who have already become sensitized prior to their first use of oxidative hair dye.

Studies have shown that people are using hair dye at younger ages and at higher frequencies. While hair dye was once more commonly used to mask gray hairs that came with age, it is now a common cosmetic tool to change hair color on a whim, regardless of age.

It is projected that by 2030, about 16% of middle class people in the UK, US, Australia, Korea, Japan, and Europe will be sensitized to PPD. The majority of this sensitization will have been caused by “black henna” tattoos gotten while on vacation. Rates will be higher in the Arabian Peninsula, East Africa, Muslim populations in Africa, and South Asia, where black henna has been used in weddings and for Eid. As the younger, “black henna” sensitized population reaches the age for graying hair, there will be a dramatic increase of PPD-related injury from hair dyes.

Dark areas indicate where black henna is used to decorate the skin for events such as weddings, Eids, religious and cultural celebrations. Gray areas indicate where the practice has spread.

8. International “henna” for hair, and “natural” hair dye products are loosely regulated, and can contain PPD regardless of labeling.

Standards for ingredient disclosure vary depending on the country of origin. In countries like India, manufacturers are not required to disclose their full list of ingredients on products such as hair dye. Henna for hair products can be labeled as “pure” and “all natural” but in reality include PPD, metallic salts, and other chemical adulterants. Some products labeled “henna” can include little to no henna at all. “Henna” becomes a vague, catch-all term for supposedly natural hair products, regardless of the existence of lawsonia inermis plant powder contained therein. These compound hennas are then mistaken for safe BAQ henna.

              It is an incorrect assumption that a product originating from South Asia, the Middle East, or other regions in which henna grows is automatically safe and natural. It is often the case that these products are the most adulterated.

These brands of hair dye contain high concentrations of PPD. Note that some are called “henna.”

9. Cosmetics companies that use PPD have little legal responsibility for PPD-related injuries.

US-based and international cosmetic giants which manufacture oxidative hair dyes containing PPD are relatively safe from litigation. They are required by the FDA to advise customers to conduct a patch test before using their products, and to avoid use if one has an allergy to “black henna.” This warning, along with the sheer size and strength of these companies, prevents successful legal action against them in the case of PPD-related injury. The lobbying power of these companies prevent the government from passing more stringent legislation on PPD. Current law does not require that injuries caused by hair dye reported to the manufacturer be made public, as this is regarded as financially sensitive information.

Dupont, the patent holder, explicitly absolves itself from harm done by any use that involves contact with skin.

“DuPont does not recommend and will not knowingly offer or sell p-phenylenediamine (PPD) for uses involving prolonged skin contact. Such uses may involve, but are not limited to, products formulated with henna for tattoo applications or other skin coloration effects. This use of PPD in prolonged skin contact application has the potential to induce allergic skin reactions in sensitive individuals.

Persons proposing to use PPD in any formulation involving any more than incidental skin contact must rely on their own medical and legal judgment without any representation on our part. They must accept full responsibility for the safety and effectiveness of their formulations.”

10. 100% pure henna is a safe, effective, and permanent alternative to oxidative hair dyes.

More and more people are seeking safer, natural cosmetic alternatives regardless of whether or not they have a sensitivity to ingredients in commercial products. Consumers are concerned about the environment and their own bodies. Using henna and related plant dye powders to dye hair is a process that requires more patience and knowledge than picking up a box of oxidative dye at the local store, but will yield permanent results without damage to the hair or body. It is essential that consumers insist on only henna products of the highest quality and purity. This means products that have been tested for PPD, metallic salts, and other harmful adulterants.

Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products are made of 100% pure plant powder.
They can be used on all types of hair, and produce virtually any natural shade.

              The practice of using plant powders to color the hair is centuries old. The knowledge of their use was once as commonplace as knowing how to drive a car is now. This can become the case again. It requires the availability of quality product, accurate information, and the dissemination of that information within and across communities through direct relationships and social networking. A common reason for being hesitant about using henna is that it seems complicated and time-consuming, but a great number of henna-users report that it becomes second nature, that they enjoy the process, and that the results are superior to boxed dyes.

Learn how to mix your own safe and natural hair dye and never worry about PPD again!

              Ancient Sunrise® provides quality products, information based in research, and a team of customer service representatives that are available through several avenues of communication. We have thousands of customers all over the world. We look forward to helping you on your journey to beautiful hair and healthier practices.

References

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Al-Suwaidi, Ayesha, and Hafiz Ahmed. “Determination of para-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna in the United Arab Emirates.” International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health 7, no. 4 (2010): 1681-1693.

Brancaccio, Ronald R., Lance H. Brown, Young Tae Chang, Joshua P. Fogelman, Erick A. Mafong, and David E. Cohen. “Identification and quantification of para-phenylenediamine in a temporary black henna tattoo.” American Journal of Contact Dermatitis 13, no. 1 (2002): 15-18.

Cartwright-Jones, Catherine. “The effect of black temporary tattoos on the chemical cosmetic industry and a solution to the problem.”Sofw Journal 143 (2017): 24-30.

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Hueber-Becker, Frédérique, Gerhard J. Nohynek, Eric K. Dufour, Wim JA Meuling, Albertus Th HJ de Bie, Herve Toutain, and Hermann M. Bolt. “Occupational exposure of hairdressers to [14 C]-para-phenylenediamine-containing oxidative hair dyes: A mass balance study.” Food and chemical toxicology 45, no. 1 (2007): 160-169.

Jacob, Sharon E., and Bruce A. Brod. “Paraphenylenediamine in black henna tattoos: sensitization of toddlers indicates a clear need for legislative action.” The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology 4, no. 12 (2011): 46.

Jenkins, David, and Elizabeth T. Chow. “Allergic contact dermatitis to para‐phenylenediamine.” Australasian Journal of Dermatology 56, no. 1 (2015): 40-43.

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McFadden, John P., Ian R. White, Peter J. Frosch, Heidi Sosted, Jenne D. Johansen, and Torkil Menne. “Allergy to hair dye.” BMJ: British Medical Journal 334, no. 7587 (2007): 220.

Özkaya, Esen, Kurtulus D. Yazganoglu, Aysem Arda, Zeynep Topkarci, and Erol Erçag. “The “henna stone” myth.” (2013).

Paley, Kristina, Larisa J. Geskin, and Matthew J. Zirwas. “Cutaneous B-cell pseudolymphoma due to paraphenylenediamine.” The American journal of dermatopathology 28, no. 5 (2006): 438-441.

Seidenari, Stefania, Lucia Mantovani, Bianca Maria Manzini, and Marco Pignatti. “Cross‐sensitizations between azo dyes and para‐amino compound.” Contact dermatitis 36, no. 2 (1997): 91-96.

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Rapid analysis of the skin irritant p-phenylenediamine (PPD) in henna products using atmospheric solids analysis probe mass spectrometry, Weiyang Chena, Thobile. A.N. Nkosia, Sandra Combrincka, Alvaro. M. Viljoena,  Catherine Cartwright-Jones. Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, Volume 128, 5 September 2016, Pages 119–125