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Full Coverage: How to Achieve Neutral or Cool Tones Using Henna for Hair

Henna is known for its ability to dye hair rich, vibrant shades that bring forth thoughts of copper pennies, autumn leaves, and crackling fires. However, not everyone wants to be a red-head. Those familiar with using natural plants dyes might know that combinations of henna and indigo will result in brown-reds and medium to deep brunettes. A two-step process will leave hair raven black. What a lot of people do not seem to know is that neutral and cool tones are possible with the right techniques.

A common concern voiced by new henna users is that even a henna/indigo mixture will result in a brunette shade that is too warm for their liking. Many prefer neutral to cool tones in their hair, as they believe it better suits their complexions. While somewhat tricky, neutral and cool toned hair colors are possible using the right combination of henna and indigo (and sometimes cassia), and the right fruit acid. Because each person’s hair varies on undertone, porosity, and dye-resistance, getting the perfect color may take some patience and strand-testing. Remember that our henna experts are available to talk you through the process, and help you troubleshoot if needed, until you achieve your perfect color.

A Quick Return to the Basics

If you have clicked around on this blog, in the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Free E-book, or in another of our many resources, you should be familiar with the processes of mixing and dye-releasing henna, cassia, and indigo. If not, feel free to pause here and glance over Henna for Hair 101: The Bare Essentials, and Henna for Hair 101: Choosing Your Mix.

Ratios for henna and indigo are easy to remember: Equal parts henna and indigo will result in a medium brunette. More henna will add more warm tones, and more indigo will darken the shade. Cassia makes henna and henna/indigo mixtures lighter, but does not lighten hair.

It may be logical to believe that the more indigo you add into the mix, the cooler the resulting shade will be. Yes… and no. Indigo on its own dyes hair a blue tone, and it neutralizes warm tones created by henna. However, adding more indigo to a medium brunette mix will create a dark brunette mix. That dark brunette result may still be a warm dark brunette due to henna’s red dye.

While using indigo is one part of achieving a neutral or cool hair color, the correct choice in fruit acid is equally important. Fruit acids can bring out bright, warm tones, or mute them. With an effective indigo component and the right fruit acid, you’ll be on your way to lovely neutral brunettes. If you’d like a lighter neutral color, such as those in the blonde family, a little extra tinkering will get you there.

Indigo

It is not uncommon for henna/indigo users to report that their roots are coming out too red, or hair appears redder over time. This is due to indigo’s higher tendency toward fading. Achieving an effective bind of indoxyl molecules to the hair will be particularly necessary for those who wish to avoid warm tones. This means understanding the chemistry behind the indoxyl/indigo molecules, and the most effective ways to ensure a permanent stain.

Indigo plant powder contains an indigo precursor molecule, indoxyl, which is immediately released when the powder is mixed with water. Indoxyl is a tricky, picky molecule. As soon as the indigo mixed into a paste, indoxyls look to bind with oxygen to transform into a stable indigo molecule. The indigo molecule will not bind to the hair. This process is similar to henna demise, but occurs much more rapidly.

It is important to mix indigo paste only right when you are ready to dye your hair, and work quickly once the paste is mixed. Preventing unnecessary exposure to air will keep the molecules in their indoxyl state longer, allowing them to bind to keratin rather than oxygen.

In the presence of oxygen, two indoxyl molecules bind with each other to form indigo, which is a stable molecule.

Once the dye is in the hair, the extent to which it binds to and stays in the hair is dependent on several factors including hair texture and the presence of dirt, oils, and mineral build-up. It is not uncommon to see a henna/indigo mixture begin as a nice, neutral brunette, and become more auburn as the indigo fades and the henna stays put. If you desire a cool or neutral shade, this is something you’d obviously like to avoid. Doing the following will ensure a successful and permanent indigo stain.

Black, gray, and white wool is dyed with indigo only, revealing shades of blue.

Clarify, clarify, clarify

Indigo binds best to squeaky clean hair. This means no oils, conditioners, hair products, dirt, grime, mineral build-up, leftover snacks, or fuzzy animal friends. At the very least, wash your hair thoroughly with a shampoo specially made for clarifying buildup. Clarifying shampoos are easily found at salons and beauty supply stores, and they are showing up more and more frequently now at regular drugstores as well.

Do yourself one better and start with Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment, and then follow that up with a good rinse with a clarifying shampoo. Wash your hair immediately before applying your henna/indigo mixture, and remember to skip the conditioner. Anything left on the hair creates an obstacle for the indoxyl molecules and increases the chances of a weak bond that will fade over time.

Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash is a natural treatment that removes mineral buildup. Mix 1 teaspoon of product with 2oz. distilled water to create a gel, and apply it to the hair, leaving it in for at least 15 minutes.

For those who have extra-resistant hair, we will recommend scrubbing the scalp and roots with a few drops of liquid dish soap. Dish soap is a very strong detergent and will wipe out any residual oils which might get in the way of a good indigo stain. Keep in mind that in doing so, the soap will dry out the scalp, but this dryness is temporary and can be fixed with a conditioning treatment after washing out your dye mixture. For the purpose of a good indigo stain, hair that is dry (absent of oils) and slightly roughed-up is the best. The hair closest to the roots is smoother and less porous, making it more resistant to dye.

Salt helps

For extra staying power, add 1 teaspoon of regular table salt (not sea salt or Himalayan; they contain minerals!) per every 100g indigo powder. The salt helps to strengthen the indigo’s bond to the hair by temporarily altering the surface texture of the hair strand, allowing a better stain.

Heat helps, too

After applying the henna/indigo paste and wrapping your hair with plastic, gently heat your hair. You can use a dryer bonnet, sit outside on a warm day, place a heated blanket or heating pad over your head, or aim a hair dryer at your head for a few minutes at a time. Heat opens the hair’s cuticles, allowing more dye to migrate into the shaft. Heat will also cut down on processing time. Under consistent warm temperatures (100F-140F), you can cut processing time roughly in half.

If you don’t have access to a dryer hood or heating pad, wrap your hair and sit somewhere warm. The towel or scarf will keep your body heat in the paste, and prevent dripping.

Fruit Acids

Henna should always be dye-released with an acidic liquid, or an acidic fruit powder plus distilled water. Some acids bring out and maintain henna’s bright, warm tones. Others mute the tones. You will want to use the latter.

The two best fruit acids for neutral and cool results are Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose and Ancient Sunrise® Amla.

Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose is derived from the purple aronia fruit, and is very high in anthocyanins. Anthocyanins are what cause blueberries to be blue. When used to dye-release henna, Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose adds subtle ash tones to the henna, cooling the overall shade. Once the henna is dye-released and mixed with indigo, the resulting color is neutral without being overly dark.

The purple aronia fruit, similar to blueberries, is high is anthocyanins which add a subtle blue tone to henna mixes.

Ancient Sunrise®Amla powder is another solid choice. Amla mutes warm tones by pushing the henna dye molecules toward brown during the dye release process. Amla on its own is not a dye, and will not color hair. It simply tweaks the color the lawsone precursor molecules during dye-release. As an added bonus, Amla helps indigo bind more effectively by temporarily snapping hydrogen bonds in the keratin of the hair, allowing the indigo dye to migrate in more effectively. The result is a cooler and often deeper brunette without warm undertones.

Ancient Sunrise® offers pre-made Henna for Hair kits in Cool Brunette and Cool Dark Brunette, which both contain amla as the fruit acid. If you are looking for brown hair without red, a good place to start would be to order either or both sample kits to test, and then go from there. You may find that one works perfectly for you, or you can adjust the formula to create your own custom mix.

*The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Kit: Cool Dark Brunette contains 100g Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna, 200g Ancient Sunrise® Sudina Indigo, and 25g Ancient Sunrise® Amla powder.*

Getting Fancy: Cassia, Henna, and Indigo Mixes

Mixing cassia, henna, and indigo allows for a wide range of lighter neutral shades, from ‘hint of dirty blonde” to “coffee with cream brunette.” Cassia acts to “dilute” the henna and indigo in such a way that the hue remains stable, but the shade is made lighter.

*Cassia and henna together make warm blonde to bright copper tones. Henna and indigo make red to dark brunette. All three together create neutral, muted results.*

This will be explored in more depth in a future article. If your hair is lighter or gray, equal parts henna and indigo result in a medium brunette. Equal parts henna, cassia, and indigo will result in a light-medium brunette. Keep adding cassia until you have 80% cassia, 10% henna, and 10% indigo, and you have a mix which dyes light hair a deep blonde.

Some customers find that their hair still shows too much warmth with the Chai kit, so they decrease the henna. Because the mix contains mostly cassia, they can adjust the henna/indigo ratio without going darker. Remember that cassia is a light, translucent golden dye, and will not lighten hair.

Toning Warm Tones

If your mix comes out too warm, there are ways to calm it down. We generally recommend waiting a week after your first application because it can cool down on its own. If you’ve “been there, done that” and your hair generally is warm, it is okay to tone after your initial application.

To give your hair more of a cool tone, you will need cassia and indigo. The amount of each and the time will vary. Testing is crucial so that you don’t over do it and so that you aren’t wasting a lot of product. For more information on toning, visit Toning Henna – Part 1 and Toning Henna – Part 2.

Your Hair’s Natural Color

Henna, indigo, and cassia all stain the hair’s outer layers of keratin. This does not affect the hair’s natural melanin, which is one reason that the same mix will appear somewhat different on two different heads of hair. Genetics determine the amount of eumelanin and pheomelanin within the hair, which causes hair to be blonde, brunette, or red, and to have warm or cool undertones. Eumelanin causes hair to have ash tones, or to be dark. Black hair has the highest amount of eumalanin. Pheomelanin give hair red tones. Natural redheads have the highest levels of pheomelanin. Most hair colors have some ratio of both.

It will be more difficult to achieve a neutral or cool hair color with a very warm starting hair color. A natural redhead may have to play around with plant powder ratios and acids much more than someone who is starting with a medium ash blond, in order to achieve a cool brunette.

How to Begin

The best plan is to start with test samples, and determine which one provided the closest color to your goal. From there, you can adjust plant dye ratios, and try both Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose and Amla fruit powders. If your test sample came out too dark, increase cassia or decrease indigo. If it was too light, do the opposite. Remember that increasing the amount of fruit acid will not neutralize more red; doing so will only make the mix too acidic. Don’t hesitate to consult with a Customer Service Representative to fine-tune your mix. Remember to start lighter when in doubt. It is easier to re-apply with a darker mix than it is to lighten.

*Samples are an affordable way to try out mixes before purchasing full-sized product. Each sample is enough to use on hairbrush hair, or a small section on hair on your head.*

The Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair Facebook group is another great source for custom mixes and before/after photos from fellow customers. Use this as a resource to ask for tips, compare results and gauge your expected outcome. It’s also a great way to stay updated on new blog articles and special promotions!

Final Notes on Neutral and Cool Tones

Remember that your results will take about a week to oxidize into their final color. Hair can appear brighter upon first rinsing out the mix. Do not be alarmed if you see red or copper tones in your hair. Be patient, and wait that week before reapplying. During the oxidation period, the warm tones will diminish. If you are impatient, you may use heat to speed up the oxidation process. Heat will darken hennaed hair rapidly, and permanently. Keep this in consideration before beginning.

For all other troubleshooting or questions, contact the Ancient Sunrise® Customer Service Team via email, online chat, or phone call.

Author: Rebecca Chou August 2017
Edited: Maria Moore August 2022

Full Coverage: Dyeing Roots and How to Rescue Resistant Roots

After the first initial application(s) of henna, there is no need to continue dyeing the full length of your hair each time. Because henna stains hair permanently and does not fade, repeated applications will darken the color over time as henna saturates the hair more and more. If you are not concerned with the darkening, or intend to darken the color, you are welcome to continue applying henna to the full length of your hair until you achieve the desired effect instead of just dyeing roots. It should be noted that your root area will be lighter.

If you are not concerned with darkening, or intend to darken the color, you are welcome to continue applying henna to the full length of your hair until you achieve the desired effect. Repeated applications will not cause damage; in fact, additional henna will continue to strengthen and thicken the hair.

Because henna stains hair permanently and does not fade, repeated applications will darken the color over time as henna saturates the hair more and more. If you are not concerned with darkening, or intend to darken the color, you are welcome to continue applying henna to the full length of your hair until you achieve the desired effect. Repeated applications will not cause damage; in fact, additional henna will continue to strengthen and thicken the hair.

However, if you are pleased with the color and intend to keep it as it is, keeping to root-only applications is an effective way to maintain your result. This cuts back on time and the amount of product needed. The first section of this article will review how to apply henna to the roots.

In some cases, henna users report their their henna or henna/indigo mix did not dye their roots sufficiently, leaving grays lighter, or a line of demarcation. The second section of this article explores potential reasons for roots and gray hairs appearing lighter than desired after a root touch-up.

How to Apply Henna to New Root Growth

Mixing for root applications is simple enough: Mix a smaller amount, keeping to the same proportions as a full head recipe. Most need anywhere between 30g-100g of powder for root touch-ups, depending on the length of your roots, the thickness of your hair, and the precision of your application. If you have a complex mix and need help converting it into a smaller quantity, feel free to contact the customer service representatives at www.mehandi.com.

Each henna user has a preferred method for root application. The carrot bag that is included in all Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair kits is useful for storing leftover paste in the freezer for future use on roots.

Note: Only henna and cassia mixes should be frozen. Indigo dye demises at freezing temperatures.

To use a carrot bag, simply fill the bag and tape or tie the end shut, snip the tip open, and squeeze the bag to apply the paste like frosting along your roots, using a gloved hand to push the paste into the hair and against the scalp. Others prefer to use a dye applicator bottle or condiment bottle with a pointed tip. This will work similarly to the carrot bag, and may be easier for some to grip and control. Another technique is to use a tinting brush, dipping it into a bowl of prepared paste.

*Part hair into sections, and apply henna to roots section by section. Twist each section away before beginning the next one. Along the hairline at the forehead, temples, and neck. Wrap with plastic.*

Using whatever tools you prefer, or gloved hands, apply the paste in sections, using the handle of a rattail comb to create a part a ¼ inch to the side of the area that has been hennaed, flipping the section over, and applying henna to the roots of the new section. Repeat until all roots are covered, wrap with plastic, and process for the same amount of time as a full-head application. A friend or a hand-held mirror may be helpful for applying to the back of your head.

*A tinting brush, carrot bag, or your hands all work well for root applications. Use whatever is most comfortable for you.*

Click here to watch a full-length demonstration by one of our Customer Service Representatives and licensed cosmetologist, Maria, applying henna to her mother’s roots.

Troubleshooting

Sometimes, customers report that their root application results are lighter than the rest of their hair, or even that some gray or white hairs were not fully covered, leaving a noticeable difference between their roots and the length of their hair. In the case of a henna/indigo mixture for brunette results, some may see that the henna has effectively stained the hair a copper color, but the indigo did not bind effectively, leaving the roots brighter and warmer than desired. There are several reasons for this happening, all of which are simple to fix or prevent.

*In this photo, some roots were not completely covered, leaving them a lighter color. This is easy to fix.*

Sebum and oils

The scalp continually produces sebum which serves to coat and protect the scalp and hair with a thin, waterproof layer. Some people naturally produce more sebum than others. The buildup of sebum will be highest closest to the scalp, then it spreads down the hair shaft. Indigo is particularly picky about the hair that it binds to. Any oils will cause the indigo to bind weakly, or not at all.

To ensure effective dye uptake, wash your hair very well with a strong detergent shampoo, taking extra care to lather and scrub at the scalp, and skip the conditioner. Do this just prior to applying henna. In the case of very resistant roots, washing the scalp with a small amount of dish detergent helps to strip oils and temporarily increase hair porosity for better results.

Mineral Buildup

The mineral content of tap water varies greatly from region to region. Hard water makes itself evident in the appearance of white residue on faucets, shower heads, and teapots. If you have hard water, you may be able to notice a metallic or sulfur smell when turning on the tap. Well water is more likely to contain a higher concentration of minerals. When you wash your hair, these minerals slowly collect onto the hair, causing a dry, brittle feeling and dulled color. The buildup of minerals blocks henna’s lawsone molecules from effectively entering and binding to the hair.

Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash mineral clarifying treatment removes minerals from the hair, leaving it brighter, softer, and easier to dye. It is a powder mixture of citric acid, ascorbic acid, and xanthan gum. Use it as a clarifying treatment prior to henna application, and periodically to keep hair bright, soft, and free of minerals.

Mix Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash with a small amount of distilled water and stir until you achieve a clear, gel consistency, similar to hair gel. Apply Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash evenly throughout the hair from root to end, and wrap with plastic. You may notice a metallic or sulfur smell while the product is in your hair. This is a sign that the Rainwash is working! It is dissolving the minerals out of your hair. For a first-time use, or for those with hard water, leave the mixture in the hair for 30-40 minutes. For periodic use (once every 1-2 weeks), leave it in for 10-15 minutes. Rinse out the product with warm water and a small amount of shampoo to ensure that the minerals are fully washed away.

*Mix Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash with water to create a mineral-removing gel.*

It is also important to make sure that the henna mixture itself does not contain unnecessary minerals. If you mix your henna with a fruit acid powder and water, or use water to dilute another acidic liquid, be sure to use distilled water. This will ensure that there are no minerals in your paste which might inhibit dye uptake.

Virgin Hair and Resistant Grays

The hair is healthiest at the roots, because it has not yet had time to incur damage. The cuticle lies flat and the surface is smooth, making dye uptake more difficult. Gray hair grows quickly, especially at the temples and the crown of the head. Because gray hair contains no melanin, it may require stronger, and longer dye applications, or more than one application to fully cover.

Washing the roots with a strong detergent such as dish liquid can help to temporarily dry out and “rough up” the cuticle so the roots can better absorb dye. If you use a henna/indigo mix, or a two-step process and see that the indigo isn’t binding effectively, add a small amount of table salt to your indigo when mixing it. One teaspoon of regular table salt per 100g of indigo is enough. Be sure not to use sea salt or Himalayan salt, as these contain additional minerals.

Be sure you are using the correct plant powders for resistant gray hair. Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna has a higher dye content for better saturation of color. Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara Indigo is finely sifted, and makes for better coverage and deeper brunettes.

Indigo and Oxygen

The indoxyl molecule in freshly mixed indigo paste is picky. It prefers hair that is completely free of oil and mineral buildup. Indoxyls will quickly bind to oxygen in the air to form indigo, if it does not have hair to bind to. It is essential to use the indigo as quickly as possible once it is mixed with distilled water. If you tend to apply your paste slowly, or have a lot of hair, split your prepared henna paste into portions, and mix only enough indigo for each portion. Mix new indigo only after you have used up each portion.

Indoxyls are intermediary molecules that bind with oxygen to become indigo. Oxidizing turns the molecule’s color from green to blue. When used in he hair, this reads as the brunette tones deepening over subsequent days.

Once the paste is applied, wrap your hair well with plastic. Because the temples and front of the hair line are most often the problem areas for coverage, it is helpful to apply an extra layer of paste to these areas before wrapping, and then using a gentle medical tape to seal the plastic down around your forehead and side burns to prevent exposure to air.

*Mix smaller portions of henna and indigo at a time to prevent exposing indigo paste to oxygen for too long.*

Orange Roots

You may know by now that henna goes through a period of oxidation during the first week after application. When using a mix that is all or mostly henna, it is perfectly normal for the color to appear too bright for the first few days. Indigo also undergoes a period of oxidation, sometimes even appearing to have a greenish hue, before settling along with the henna to the desired shade.

Henna Oxidzing — *Hair dyed with a henna/indigo mix darkens during the first two weeks.*

If your roots are consistently too bright, and remain that way after a week, consider switching your fruit acid, or adding more indigo. Fruit acids like Ancient Sunrise® Amla and Ancient Sunrise® Nightfall Rose fruit acid powders help to lessen the brighter, brassier tones by muting and cooling them. Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino fruit acid powder pushes the henna color down a few shades, making for deeper auburns and brunettes.

If you wish to try adding more indigo to your future mixes, increase the amount by just a spoonful or two at a time, until you achieve the color you desire. Adding too much indigo too quickly can cause the hair to go darker than you may like.

Final Tips

Heat Helps

Processing with heat will help for a strong bond between dye molecules and hair. Sit outside on a warm day, cover your head with a warm cap, or periodically aim a blow dryer at your wrapped hair for a few minutes at a time. If you have access to a bonnet dryer, sitting under the dryer will cut processing time in about half.

Heat will also speed up oxidation and darken the color once you have rinsed the paste from your hair. Gentle heat will work more slowly, whereas a styling tool such as a straightener or curler will cause the color to deepen noticeably. A quick solution to darkening undesirably bright hair is to expose it to heat. Be aware that the darkening caused by heat is not reversible.

*This mohair sample was dyed with henna, then heated with an iron on one end and darkened as a result.*

Add More Indigo

Indigo Gloss

An indigo gloss is when you mix indigo and cassia together to tone mixes that are not darken enough, are too bright, or too orange/red. You read in more details about toning mixes in these blogs: Toning Henna – Part 1 and Toning Henna – Part 2.

Conditioner and Indigo

While some folks prefer to use conditioner mixed with indigo, we’ve found that this is not very effective. Most customers who have attempted this have seen little to no change. Any test that we’ve done has shown no changes.

*An indigo gloss can temporarily bump the color a few shades darker.*

Full Strength Indigo

To fix a more noticeable contrast, such as bright orange roots and deep brunette length, dab full-strength indigo paste (not mixed with conditioner) into the lighter areas, cover, and rinse after 10-15 minutes. Be sure that your hair is clean and free of oils before doing this. Do not leave indigo on for too long; indigo alone on recently hennaed hair will dye hair black, such as in the two-step method.

Do not apply indigo to hair that is still completely white, gray, or a pale yellow. If there are areas where henna did not stain the hair, reapply both henna and indigo. Indigo alone on light hair will result in green and blue tones. Keep in mind that unless the result of your root application is several shades lighter than the length, it is best to wait a week before attempting adjustments. Oftentimes the color will deepen and blend on its own during oxidation.

*Indigo alone on light hair will dye it blue tones.*

Reapply

If there is little to no color change after henna, and a stark contrast between new growth and length, feel free to reapply as soon as you’d like. There is no waiting time required between henna applications, and no harm in using henna frequently.

*This model’s roots did not dye evenly, leaving some lighter. She reapplied her mix in the areas where it was needed.*

Feel free to contact the customer service representatives at www.mehandi.com if you have any additional questions of concerns. They are available via phone online chat, and email, and specialize in custom formulas and troubleshooting.

Author: Rebecca Chou August 2017
Edited: Maria Moore August 2022

Full Coverage: Why Henna Color Darkens and How to Prevent It

Unlike boxed dyes, henna is permanent and does not fade. With continued applications and exposure to heat or mineral buildup, the color darkens. Henna and indigo also go through oxidation. For those who find their color results too bright, darkening with subsequent applications or heat appliances is a handy technique for adjusting their color. For others who are happy with their color and want to keep it, this can be frustrating. Depending on the cause, you may be able to brighten hennaed hair that has deepened and dulled. In other cases, chemical lightening may be the only option. If you love your result and want to keep it, it is best to be proactive in preventing darkening.

Oxidation

Henna will always oxidize. The most noticeable oxidization happens in the first week after dyeing. The color is bright upon first rinse, and deepens during the subsequent days. Some people get “orange panic” when they first rinse out their henna, as the initial color of a henna application can be a bright copper. This brightness is normal. Within a week, the dye settles in and oxidizes, much like a cut apple exposed to air.

Hennaed hair oxidizes to a deeper shade during the first weeks after application. The majority of noticeable color change occurs in the first two weeks; oxidation continues slowly and minimally thereafter.

In some cases, oxidation can continue and cause the color to darken further. This is common in very acidic mixes. Lemon juice causes a vividly bright copper stain upon first rinse, and that color drops to deep auburn through oxidation. Lemon juice can also be harsh and drying to the hair and scalp. A mix using apple cider vinegar will cause similar issues. If one chooses to use either of these two acidic liquids, diluting with distilled water will lessen undesired brightness, over oxidation, and dryness.

For those who love the bright initial result of a low pH mix, but find lemon juice or AVC too harsh, a good alternative is Ancient Sunrise® Kristalovino fruit acid powder, which gives a similar bright result with less oxidation. Even better is Ancient Sunrise® Copperberry fruit acid powder, which is high in antioxidants, preventing the color from oxidizing over time.

Conversely, those who love the deep auburn color and who find their initial color to be too bright can use Ancient Sunrise® Malluma Kristalovino acid powder, which pushes the overall tone of the henna down to lovely auburn and deep red tones without the initial bright copper.

Saturation

One of the greatest qualities of henna for hair is its permanence. There is little to no fading; touch-ups are rarely needed. A common mistake is to treat henna like a conventional dye and to apply it from root to ends during every application.

After you have achieved your desired color on the full length of your hair, avoid dyeing the length. Most henna users dye their roots every 3-6 weeks depending on root growth. Some choose to do a full-head treatment a few times a year. Not only does a root-only application prevent darkening, but it is cost effective. Some overlap is fine, and for those with short hair, it is almost unavoidable.

Each person finds the technique that works best for them. Using a carrot bag or an applicator bottle with a thin tip can help concentrate the paste near the scalp. Sectioning and clipping the hair is helpful, as well. Some only touch up their hairline and part regularly, leaving a full root touchup for when their roots become more noticeable.

*Applying henna only to new root growth will keep the color bright.*

Saturation can also occur with longer processing times. Henna will continue dyeing the hair for as long as it is kept in. Those who desire deep, rich results often keep their henna in for at least six hours, or overnight. If you prefer a lighter, brighter result, consider keeping the processing time to three to four hours.

Finally, it’s a common mistake to fall head-over-heels in love with the benefits of henna and end up slathering it on every couple of weeks. The process of hennaing hair is quite soothing and addictive. If you can’t resist a frequent mud treatment, switch to cassia, which has similar conditioning benefits to henna, but no color change when mixed with distilled water and used right away without dye-release. On darker hair, dye-released cassia will deliver great conditioning without altering the color.

Hard Water

The quality of water that comes out of the tap varies greatly from region to region. If you have hard water, the minerals can build up as you wash you hair. Minerals will darken and dull hennaed hair. If the water from the tap has a metallic or sulfur taste or smell, or if you have white buildup on your faucets or in a teapot, those same minerals will attach to the hair, dulling the color. Minerals also cause the hair to feel dry and unmanageable.

This is an especially easy fix. Our Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash clarifying treatment chelates minerals out of the hair, leaving it brighter and softer. Many customers swear by it. It is also great to use prior to henna, to ensure that your hair is completely clean for best results. Using Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash regularly will keep hair bright and free of buildup.

Heat and Oxidation

Henna will oxidize quickly and permanently when exposed to high heat. The occasional blow-dry is nothing to worry about, but styling tools such as curlers and flat irons will cause noticeable darkening within a few uses. Consider other options for straightening or curling that involve gentler heat or air-drying.

*This hair sample was dyed with henna, then exposed to direct heat on the right side.*

Some henna users report that spending a large amount of time in the sun seemed to darken their hair. If you live in hot, sunny areas, you may consider a hat or scarf if you plan to be outside for extended time. On the bright side, henna is a great natural SPF, so if your hair is exposed to sun, it may darken but will not be damaged.

There is no easy fix for oxidation caused by heat. Using preventative measures such as using an acid high in antioxidants, applying henna just to the roots, and using Ancient Sunrise^© Rainwash will ensure that other factors are not causing additional darkening. Once hennaed hair has been darkened by heat, it will remain that way.

You can choose to lighten heat-oxidized hair using peroxide or lightening agents. Only do this if you have used nothing but Ancient Sunrise® products, as they have been tested for purity and will not react to chemical lighteners. If you have used any other henna or hair-dye products, it is critical to test a sample of your hair first, as metallic salts and other additives will cause serious chemical reactions with lightening products.

If your mix includes indigo, conduct a strand test to determine if the indigo will lift successfully from your hair. Some find that indigo will not lift completely, and leave a blue or green tone.

Your Mix

Let’s say you loved the color you had, but now you just want to transition into a slightly lighter shade as you hair grows. Adjusting your formula is a simple way to do it.

If you are using just henna, try adding some cassia to your future mixes, and apply to the roots. This will turn deeper reds into brighter, more coppery reds. You could also try switching your henna. Or, consider switching to a lower dye-content henna. Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight, our most popular henna, is also our highest dye-content henna. Ancient Sunrise® Monsoon and Ancient Sunrise® Rarity Henna all yield beautiful lighter and brighter tones. As your hair grows, the transition to a lighter color will appear like an ombre effect.

If you are using a henna/indigo mix, you can decrease your indigo, which will cause your result to be lighter but also warmer. To achieve a lighter mix without additional warm tones, keep henna/indigo ratio steady, and add cassia.

Play around with fruit acids, too. As mentioned above, some acids cause deeper tones, while others keep your color brighter.

For more on mixes, read Henna for Hair 101: Choosing your Mix, and The Mixing and Testing chapter of the Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair E-book.

Darkening in Henna/Indigo Mixes

Those who use henna/indigo (“henndigo”) mixes for brunette results may report their hair becoming darker and darker after too many applications. What was once a medium brunette is now a dark brunette, due to oversaturation. Start with using Ancient Sunrise^© Rainwash, to ensure any darkening due to build-up is remedied. If the color is still dark, it is possible to remove some indigo to return the color to a lighter shade.

Indigo is an odd and picky dye. Its bond is not as strong as henna, and it relies on several factors for a successful bond. If the hair is coated with dirt, oils, or buildup, indigo will come loose from the hair over time. Those who want a rich and permanent result from a henndigo mix should make sure that they are mixing their indigo with distilled water and a little salt, apply quickly to very clean hair, and process for three to four hours.

In the case of unwanted darkness, an unsuccessful indigo dye can work in a person’s favor. If the indigo is attached loosely, there are methods to pull it out. One method is to apply warm coconut oil to towel-dried hair, wrap and leave in for several hours, and shampoo out. Another is to mix vitamin C powder with clarifying shampoo into a thick, gritty paste, scrub into damp hair, leave in for several minutes, and rinse. Both of the above methods may take more than one treatment to achieve the desired effect. These techniques will not work on everyone, as indigo binds very well in most cases.

If you have additional questions about your darkening hair color, feel free to contact our experts at Customer Service!